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I’m not sure how interested New Yorkers are in the opinions of French restaurant critics, but one of the leading ones, Gilles Pudlowski, who publishes a well-regarded annual guide, also writes a weekly page in the magazine Le Point. Yesterday, he spent considerable space on three restaurants he recently ate at in NYC, specifically at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s 8th place, Perry Street, where he liked the sumptuous desserts; at the “genius of Manhattan” Thomas Keller’s Per Se, where he noted that the food was classically French in technique (a la Fredy Giradet in Cressier) with good bio American product; and at Nori Sugie’s Asiate where he liked the Japanese-French fine, creative, light cuisine.

John Talbott

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