Sangiovese and Mushrooms

[bills]

Notes from an interesting blind tasting that combined a mushroom menu and Italian Sangiovese.

1997 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino – colour on the lighter side, nose a nice traditional Sangiovese nose with some cherry and earth and a hint of mint. On palate perhaps slightly lacking in fruit and loads of acid, but the aftertaste was quite persistent and over all it was a pleasant rather than profound wine. Nice way to start.

1999 San Felice Poggio Rosso Chianti Classico Riserva – an Italian tasting and we only got one Chianti?? Bigger darker wine with deeper cherry nose with some plums and maybe just a hint of anise. Lots of acidity but also sweet fruit, some tannin, and good structure.

2000 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano – I wouldn’t have bet much on even one Morellino showing up and we got three, and a nice cross section of this producer, too. This regular bottling showed a ripe sweet nose with some cocoa, forward on palate and with tannin to back it. Bitter cherries in the finish.

2001 Baroncini Mercuzio – a sangiovese syrah blend that no one knew anything about. Slight warmth in nose, and the usual cherries, drinks well now. I detected no syrah elements in this wine, nor did several other people, yet one taster was swearing they detected it right away. Go figure.

1998 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano Avvoltore – 75% sangio, 20% cab and 5% syrah in this blend.. In the nose, oak appears for the first time as well as cherries, and on palate, smooth, long and tasty.

1997 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone – I tasted this a month ago and while very similar, this bottle had the edge and was showing very well indeed. Dark, with warm ripe nose of cherry vanilla and a hint of cinnamon, with good depth of flavour in the mouth and quite good length. I thought the previous bottle had needed more time; this one was right on form now!

2000 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte - made from the Sangioveto version of Sangiovese, this vino di tavola has a great reputation. The nose on this one was a bit muted, indicating more age than 5 years, and the feel in the mouth was mellow and pleasant, but didn’t knock you out with concentration. A pleasant wine, but not quite up to my expectation.

1999 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano Reserva – dark wine with an interesting ripe nose that reminded several of us of vitamin tablets! Big presence in the mouth and a slight terminal astringency. I’d give this one more time.

1993 Ciacci Piccolomini d Aragona Ateo IGT – made from mostly sangiovese, with up to 30% cabernet and merlot added (I think this one was just 10% cab) they named this ‘Ateo’, the Atheist, for its non-conforming nature. When opened there was an almost Rhonish funk to the nose, but that cleared up and it became ripe rather than sweaty, with a little rubber. Sweet and tasty with good depth and still lots of tannin, there is no rush to drink this one. A very good performance in a middling decent vintage.

[Rebel Rose]

All Italians, huh? Bill, do you think the Wine Spectator is right and that sangiovese in California is a "failed experiment"? If so, why?

[Bill Miller]

Notes from an interesting blind tasting that combined a mushroom menu and Italian Sangiovese.

1997 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino – colour on the lighter side, nose a nice traditional Sangiovese nose with some cherry and earth and a hint of mint.  On palate perhaps slightly lacking in fruit and loads of acid, but the aftertaste was quite persistent and over all it was a pleasant rather than profound wine. Nice way to start.

1999 San Felice Poggio Rosso Chianti Classico Riserva – an Italian tasting and we only got one Chianti??  Bigger darker wine with deeper cherry nose with some plums and maybe just a hint of anise.  Lots of acidity but also sweet fruit, some tannin, and good structure.

2000 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano – I wouldn’t have bet much on even one Morellino showing up and we got three, and a nice cross section of this producer, too.  This regular bottling showed a ripe sweet nose with some cocoa, forward on palate and with tannin to back it.  Bitter cherries in the finish.

2001 Baroncini Mercuzio – a sangiovese syrah blend that no one knew anything about. Slight warmth in nose, and the usual cherries, drinks well now.  I detected no syrah elements in this wine, nor did several other people, yet one taster was swearing they detected it right away. Go figure.

1998 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano Avvoltore – 75% sangio, 20% cab and 5% syrah in this blend.. In the nose, oak appears for the first time as well as cherries, and on palate, smooth, long and tasty.

1997 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone – I tasted this a month ago and while very similar, this bottle had the edge and was showing very well indeed. Dark, with warm ripe nose of cherry vanilla and a hint of cinnamon, with good depth of flavour in the mouth and quite good length. I thought the previous bottle had needed more time; this one was right on form now!

2000 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte  - made from the Sangioveto version of Sangiovese, this vino di tavola has a great reputation. The nose on this one was a bit muted, indicating more age than 5 years, and the feel in the mouth was mellow and pleasant, but didn’t knock you out with concentration. A pleasant wine, but not quite up to my expectation.

1999 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano Reserva – dark wine with an interesting ripe nose that reminded several of us of vitamin tablets!  Big presence in the mouth and a slight terminal astringency. I’d give this one more time.

1993 Ciacci Piccolomini d Aragona Ateo IGT – made from mostly sangiovese, with up to 30% cabernet and merlot added (I think this one was just 10% cab) they named this ‘Ateo’, the Atheist, for its non-conforming nature.  When opened there was an almost Rhonish funk to the nose, but that cleared up and it became ripe rather than sweaty, with a little rubber. Sweet and tasty with good depth and still lots of tannin, there is no rush to drink this one. A very good performance in a middling decent vintage.

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Just a quick thought, last winter we served a creamy chanterelle soup paired with a Spanish Rioja as a first course. It was amazing , I could almost chew the wine with the mushroom pieces. The two blended without losing the flavor of either. I'm no expert but I think this combo is a keeper. We love sangivese too.