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Florida Jim

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1999 Trimbach, Riesling Clos St. Hune:

A concerto; initially, all about acid and cut with delicate notes of fruit – soon followed by an elegant but powerful burst of flavors that never leave their acidic brightness behind but find a presence and refinement that is far from the usual – lastly, expansive aromas take over the nose and deeply etched flavors emerge on the palate. Here is a complete (albeit, as yet unfinished) symphony in bottle and it is structured beyond any fine riesling I can remember. Hold.

2004 Pepiere, Muscadet:

To continue the analogy, this wine is the etude; bright, flavorful, aromatic and full of joyous melody – a delight to the senses and proof positive that the wine gods love us. Drink!

2000 Masciarelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo:

A bit too much wood for this taster but still, a concentrated, powerfully built sangiovese with pleasant aromatics, good depth and a medium length finish. Better than some; worse than others.

1996 Pertinace, Langhe:

70% nebbiolo, 15% barbera, 15% cabernet sauvignon; sort of simple on the nose but without wood or manipulated notes; more integration in the mouth and solid flavors that are too young to discern any real nuance; a medium length, flavorful finish. A wine with a promise; I’m just not sure I trust it yet. Needs time.

2002 Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vielles Vignes:

Structured and sappy, this wine is surely worthy of its “old vine” designation; it’s ripe with a worsted texture, deep concentration and a persistence that belies any opinion about Brouilly being a ‘lesser’ cru. A wine of both power and finesse; I’m so happy to have a number of bottles in the cellar. Excellent now; even better in the future.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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