Joel Robuchon - Las Vegas - Mansion & L'Atelier

[Swicks]

Thanks molto e, much appreciated.

I am definately leaning towards the tasting menu as it seems interesting and a great way to try lots of things. Any can't miss items? The oysters seem to be getting rave reviews. Any specific wine recs? Maybe something you remember as particularly outstanding? Im more of a california guy so French wine is something I know very little about.

Thanks!

[Sneakeater]

At least in New York -- and somebody told me this is the same as Las Vegas -- they don't do what I'd consider real wine pairings, but rather consult with you as to which of the by-the-glass options would go best with your next course or couple of courses.

Is it different in LV?

Edited September 14, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[molto e]

At least in New York -- and somebody told me this is the same as Las Vegas -- they don't do what I'd consider real wine pairings, but rather consult with you as to which of the by-the-glass options would go best with your next course or couple of courses.

Is it different in LV?

←

The last time that I was there, the server asked if I would like him to pair up the meal with wine. To my knowledge, there is not specific pairings, but I enjoyed his choices.

Edited September 14, 2006 by molto e (log)

[Obese-Wan Kenobi]

Hi,

I noticed a lot of references to the price. Yes, it's expensive, but this tidbit may be of interest to many of you.

When I had dinner there, I struck up a conversation with a server. He mentioned that Robuchon was a non-profit restaurant both for MGM and Joel Robuchon. It's a way to pamper their "whales" (high rollers). If you notice it's a quick hop over from the baccarat pit where all the whales are gambling. Since the VIPs don't pay anyway, the $500 they will comp per person is insignificant to the amount they're gambling.

It's a believable story.

[rjwong]

O-W K,

Welcome to eGullet!

That bit of info you posted seems to make sense. When someone hits it big, he'll want to celebrate at the casino's best restaurant. Interesting ...

[humor]The Fork, Obese-Wan Kenobi ... Use the Fork ...[/humor]

BTW, what did you think of Robuchon? Would you please give a full report?

[Obese-Wan Kenobi]

O-W K,

Welcome to eGullet!

That bit of info you posted seems to make sense. When someone hits it big, he'll want to celebrate at the casino's best restaurant. Interesting ...

[humor]The Fork, Obese-Wan Kenobi ... Use the Fork ...[/humor]

BTW, what did you think of Robuchon? Would you please give a full report?

←

rjwong,

Thanks for the welcome. The fork, I like that!

What I thought of it? It was excellent! I missed watching a de la Hoya boxing match so I could eat there. I didn't regret the decision.

All 16 courses were very good. But what stood out was the Wagyu marrow for me. It was to die for!

Regards!

[Swicks]

T Minus 6 days until I dine at L'Atelier.

Pretty excited.

[Swicks]

Settle in, this is going to be one long ass post....

So last night was it....I got my chance to eat at L'Atelier. I was supposed to have a dinner meeting (I was in Vegas on business) but thankfully it got canceled. Im sure glad it did, as this night turned out to be extrordinarily memorable, in more ways than one (more in a minute). I will save some details on some things to save time as they have been discussed ad naseum (decor, seating, etc). Once you read the description of the night you will understand more, but lets me begin by saying that all of this is true, and I couldn't have made it up if I tried....

I was seated in the middle of the counter, a great seat to view the action. I had a very personable waiter. I selected the tasting menu, current price by the way is $129 along with some wine pairings. As I was enjoying my bread and excellent butter (my first experience with the european style, very very good, just has that extra something taste-wise) and I was presented with an excellent glass of champagne. Then a couple was seated next to me, initially as the gentleman sat down he had his back to me but once I heard the voice, I knew exactly who he was....Robin Leach! Yes, that Robin Leach, of the champagne wishes and caviar dreams, sitting right next to me, our elbows nearly touching, . How appropriate that I was enjoying my champagne at that very moment. He was with a woman who couldn't have been older than 25 or 27, asian and very beautiful, apparantly she is the lead pussycat doll in the vegas group. A curious pairing to be sure....

So, these were my dining "companions" as it were. A few minutes goes by and the head chef comes over, a very nice frenchman named Steve, he has worked with Robuchon for about 15 years as Robin told me. Then surprisingly, out comes THE MAN, Joel Robuchon. Thats right, the "Chef of the Century" in the flesh standing in front of me. He introduces himself to Robin (I feel like I know him now so I will call him by his first name ). Apparantly they are supposed to have lunch the next day for a segment for AOL, they speak briefly and he he then sees me, throws me a wink, and I say hello. Speaks almost no english by the way. He then excuses himself. The man was in the house, how fortuitous. I know what you are thinking and I agree, outrageous. This was going to be a good night....I could barely contain my laughter at the entire situation.

Robin and his date keep to themselves for most of the meal occasionally we share words about a dish, until desert....more on that later.

So onto the food....most of the dishes have been discussed so I will try and keep it brief.

amuse - tomato gelee, avocado cream, cumin oil. great starter, loved it. It sounds silly but it tasted like the best guacamole you have ever tasted....where were the tortilla chips?

1st course - raw scallops, lemon oil, salt and pepper. This dish really didnt work for me, the slices were semi thick, room temperature and a bit fishy, didn't work for me at all, i think it could have worked had it been colder and more carpaccio style. The one disappointing dish of the night.

At this point there was a loooooong gap between courses, disappointing to be sure but i think it was due to the attention being lavished on Robin and his date as well as a party of 5 down the counter a bit. It picked up a bit after thankfully.

2nd - asparagus, crab, sea urchin sauce. This course has been ravaged by critics but personally i loved it. Very light, delicious crab, nice sauce, perfectly cooked asparagus. Nothing mindblowing but very clean flavored and delicious.

3rd - oysters, french butter. This dish was as good as advertised, I could have eaten a ton of them. I am really not a fan of oysters at all but these were amazing. Like someone stated before, I thought exactly the same thing "So these are what oysters should taste like."

4th - Egg concotte. Another dish that was as excellent as everyone has said. Truly unlike anything I had ever tasted, over the top rich and earthy with the chanterelles. Just unbelieveable.

5th - seabass. I swapped out the smoked salmon because i dont like salmon and the chef gave me a great little piece of seabass, crispy skin, light butter sauce, perfectly cooked. I don't know if I have had a better cooked piece of fish in my life.

6th - Hanger steak, fried shallots, the "famous" mashed potatos. Great piece of meat, very rich, a smidge overcooked, but that was probably my fault for ordering it medium. The potatos...my god, again, as good as advertised. They really didn't even taste like potatos. If, given the oppotunity, I would have gladly bathed in them. An interesting note, all meats are cooked on a teppanyaki style flattop, no grill. I found this interesting. I like a bit of char on my steak so in this respect it could have added a little bit to the beef.

A quick note on wines, please excuse the lack of info, i forget the exact labels, etc. An excellent champagne was first, then a wonderful light sancerre for the first two courses. Then a french chardonnay for the oysters and egg. I know what you are thinking, and I was skeptical not being a chardonnay fan but my server assured me I would like it. It was great and the butteryness worked really well with both of the rich dishes but provided enough "cutting through" as well. No heavy oak to be found, as my waiter put it "this is how chardonnay should be done." Finally a Cote du Rhone with the beef, it was good if unspectacular, got better as it opened up a bit. He offered a cab but im not a fan and wanted to try something new and different.

At this point in the meal Robin and I were chatting lightly, we both ageed the food was great and totally unlike most of the cooking in the US at this point.

Onto dessert....

1st - strawberry sorbet in a strawberry milkshake with fresh strawberries and pistacchio struesel. Just awesome, I love strawberries and this was heaven. The scoop of sorbet was served in a wide glass filled with the milkshake and fresh strawberries. The combination of the sorbet and the milkshake were the perfect match, and the struesel added just a bit of crunch.

2nd - Tropical fruit sorbet, chocolate biscut, chocolate crunchy wafer, chocolate cream, tropical fruit foam. I loved, loved, loved this. What a great combo, so interesting. I am a big chocolate guy so I was glad there was a chocolate desert but also such a great pairing with the tropical fruits.

So at this point the chef is still lavishing Robin and Co. with deserts, finally he brings them two plates with tiny tiny slices of assorted tarts. Robin can't handle any more food so he passes his plate to me and says "have at it dear boy!" I try to refuse but he isnt having any of it, he'll share with his date he exclaims. Hilarious! So, I enjoy my espresso and Robin's tarts. They were really really good, there was an apple, lemon rasberry, cinnamon, lemon custard, and the best...snickers, basically carmel, peanuts and chocolate. Yum! A great ending to a great meal.

After this the head chef and Chef Robuchon come out again, this time around the counter and speak with Robin for awhile, they take some pictures, ham it up a bit. Then they wind it up and Chef Robuchon looks over at me, i say "Merci, se magnifique" embarassing yes, but I had to try, and its the only french I know. I thank him and his head chef for a great meal and let him know I love his restaurant. We shake hands and he is off.

So, in the end, a truly memorable evening, and all of this on a monday night. Some brief thoughts on the restaurant and food itself. Was it the best meal of my life? I don't know, has to be close, definately the most interesting. Would I go back? Absolutely. Would I have the tasting menu again? Tough one, I don't know, probably not. I wasn't blown away by the food as a whole but did really like it. I think next time I would pick and choose some different items. The amount of food I thought seemed appropriate as I left feeling very full but not totally overwhelmed. The atmosphere and restaurant were very fun, loved the counter, especially given i was dining alone. Great service as well. The attention to detail on the plating was exceptional. Total price with tax was $225.

Sorry for the decidedly long-winded post...feel free to hit me up with specific questions, id be glad to discuss.

Cheers!

-S

Edited because spelling and grammar are important

Edited September 27, 2006 by Swicks (log)

[Swicks]

Upon reviewing my breathlessly gossipy previous post, I think I should be writing for US Weekly.

[molto e]

As I wrote in Joel Robuchon and the Dream Team, Chef Robuchon was given all means necessary to execute a dining experience of the highest order. Robuchon at the Mansion has received praise from a number of critics around the world including: R.W. Apple Jr., Irene Virbila, Ruth Reichl, Maurice Graham Henry and Andre Gayot. The Mansion has a staff of 42 people that accomodate the 19 tables in the dining room. The facility is about 85% kitchen to dining room space.

When you walk through the doors in the dining room leading to the back of the house, a quick right turn leads you to the "pass".

If Chef Robuchon does not like the dish then it does not make it thru the pass

"Allez"

The next shot is taken right behind the pass.

Main Kitchen

Island with induction cook top

Back wall of the main kitchen

Calm under "fire"

Immersion blenders

During service the calm exhibited by the chefs is amazing. The kitchen was very quiet with everyone going about their work. No swearing, no sweating just synchronized movement to bring out the next course.

Bust out the caviar

During this particular menu, the Mansion was going thru 5 kilos of caviar every three weeks.

Black Truffles before and after prepped for one of the tastiest black truffle tartlets.

Black Truffles were being shaved with reckless abandon at the clip of 10 kilos a week ( that is not a misprint).

There is a back kitchen adjacent to the main kitchen that much of the prep takes place in.

Front portion of back kitchen

The kitchen is filled with many toys for the chefs to create with. Some of the gadgets are from the new world and some of the gadgets are from the old world.

Pacojet

gelato / ice cream machine

Sous-vide in action

Well to sous-vide it does not hurt to have one of these...

Past the front part of the back kitchen, you will find the lobster tank that is filled with live lobsters from Brittany that arrive weekly. There are a few walk-in coolers filled with various treats:

French Foie Gras

Get ready...

Japanese WAGYU...Chef look over there...see molto run with wagyu

French guinea hen

Japanese Amadei

After showing me the wagyu, Chef Claude Le Tohic realizes that he has aroused my hunger and let's me try the brioche that is given away at the end of the grand tasting menu at the Mansion.

Right out of the oven

The brioche was out of this world, but I just had to ask...I could not help myself...Chef do you have any of that Eshire butter laying around ?

Best Butter Ever

Look the brioche did not need it, but come on...that stuff is crazy good. Now here was his mistake...do not leave a case of that GOLD in plain site. Do they leave gold bricks out like that at Fort Knox...maybe they do??

Can I stuff that under my shirt...I think I can... will it melt?

Now deep underneath the bowels of the MGM there is a room specifically built as the bake shop for the Robuchon restaurants. Everything is done the Parisian way and to make sure of this the head baker was sent to Paris to train.

Recipe Book

More French butter

Wood boards are used for everything

Edited October 3, 2006 by molto e (log)

[Swicks]

Awesome pictures molto. Your statement about the calm in the kitchen really rang true with me as well. At L'Atelier (for obvious reasons) it was very quiet for the most part, very synchronized, it was a proficency at which I had never seen, everyone seemed so relaxed, even with Chef Robuchon at the pass.

[Bond Girl]

Ate at L'atelier and Mansion in two night successions....why do I feel like I'been transported back to 1984? Well, may be because that was the last time I saw a sugar ball dessert being served? I can't say that everything wasn't good, because everything did taste very good. It's just that the food feels like the kind of things my father would have liked, if my father ate that sort of stuff.

I had a lobster salad at the L'atelier that was very well executed, but the seared tuna belly tasted simply oily. In smaller qualtities, it might have been okay, but the portion I had was enough to make me feel queasy. I did enjoyed the famous Robouchon bread (supposedly came out a kitchen that replicated his own bread kitchen in France) complete with the heavenly butter. Although most of my meal was rather unmemorable with the ice creams being the worse part of the meal. Decor was plush and I like the little foot stool they gave me to put my Jimmy Choo bag on.

Then again, what do I know? I happen to like the simple stuff in life. And, that's not what you would go to Vegas for is it?

[rjwong]

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (MGM Grand)

On my last night of my vacation (Monday), I had dinner at Robuchon’s more “casual” restaurant, L’Atelier.

Views of the restaurant

L’AMUSE-BOUCHE : L’avocat en crème onctueuse sur un fondant de légumes acidulé

Vegetable fondant topped with a delicate avocado cream

LA COQUILLE SAINT JACQUES : La noix crue, marinée au confit de citron

Fresh scallop marinated with a lemon dressing

LES HUITRES : De Kussi pochées dans leur coquille au beurre salé

Poached baby kussi oysters with French “Echiré” salted butter

L’ŒUF : Cocotte et sa crème légère de champignons

Egg cocotte topped with a light mushroom cream

LE FOIE GRAS : En parfait, confit de poire, figues fraîche

Sauternes flavored foie gras parfait, pear confit, fresh figs and ginger

LE SAUMON : Mi-fumé avec des tortillons de concombre à l’aigre-doux

Slightly smoked salmon served warm with sweet and sour cucumber strips

LA CAILLE : Farcie de foie gras et caramélisée, pomme purée truffée

Free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and served with truffled-mashed potatoes

LA FRAISE : En jus de fruit glacé, streusel croustillant

Strawberry “milkshake” and sorbet, crunchy streusel

Tea

LES FRUITS EXOTIQUES : En sorbet, velouté et moelleux chocolat, confit de citron

Exotic fruit sorbet, chocolate cream and biscuit, lemon confit

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

This seemed weird to me at first: The lighting was such that when I was taking pictures of my meal, my camera didn’t need any flash. It was as though Robuchon knew that there would be diners like me who want to take some photos.

[Swicks]

I can still taste the oysters and the egg concotte. Mmmmmm....

[21clubber]

FYI in September Joël Robuchon at The Mansion was renamed "Joël Robuchon". The decision was made jointly by MGM Grand management and by chef Robuchon. The reason MGM gave for the change is that, because the restaurant is actually located within the main MGM Grand hotel and casino and not in the tuscan-style mansion alongside it, it's not really "Joël Robuchon at The Mansion" and is therefore confusing. But no matter what the name, I believe this is now the finest French restaurant in the USA.

[rjwong]

FYI in September Joël Robuchon at The Mansion was renamed "Joël Robuchon".  The decision was made jointly by MGM Grand management and by chef Robuchon.  The reason MGM gave for the change is that, because the restaurant is actually located within the main MGM Grand hotel and casino and not in the tuscan-style mansion alongside it, it's not really "Joël Robuchon at The Mansion" and is therefore confusing.   But no matter what the name, I believe this is now the finest French restaurant in the USA.

←

21clubber,

Welecome to eGullet! I personally commend you for including the correct accent over the "e" in "Joël." Merci beaucoup!

Now that I have eaten at Robuchon (back in Apr. 2006), Guy Savoy & L'Atelier (both in Oct. 2006), I would have to conclude that in terms of food, I must give the nod to Robuchon. When compared with Savoy, Robuchon's creativity & presentation of each course overall can't really be matched. Mind you, Guy Savoy is no slouch, but Robuchon is such a detailist, such a perfectionist (not like Loiseau, please ... <sigh>)

[percyn]

When I was in Paris, I ate at L' Atelier de Joel Robuchon and I loved it. So when I went to Las Vegas, I wondered if it could possibly be as good and if there would be a difference in the Vegas version. The look of the Paris and Vegas restaurants are very similar.

Molto e, I will be at L'Atelier in LV in a few weeks and have also enjoyed L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Paris and since many of the dishes on the degustation menu seem to be similar to the ones I had in Paris, would you recommend trying the le Carte items? Was the Onglet on the degutation or le carte?

[Swicks]

Was the Onglet on the degutation or le carte?

←

When i was there on the degustation menu they had an option of the hanger steak or the Quail, though things may have changed by now.

[molto e]

Percyn,

The last time that I was there, Wagyu was an option, Nebraska Ribeye and I do not recall if the Onglet was on the menu ( I will check my menus). As far as what to order, I think the degustation may change a bit so you will have to see what is offered that night. If I go with others we end up ordering a little of everything. They will also substitute courses if you want to change up the tasting a bit.

Have Fun,

Molto E

Edited November 28, 2006 by molto e (log)

[rjwong]

When I was in Paris, I ate at L' Atelier de Joel Robuchon and I loved it. So when I went to Las Vegas, I wondered if it could possibly be as good and if there would be a difference in the Vegas version. The look of the Paris and Vegas restaurants are very similar.

Molto e, I will be at L'Atelier in LV in a few weeks and have also enjoyed L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Paris and since many of the dishes on the degustation menu seem to be similar to the ones I had in Paris, would you recommend trying the le Carte items? Was the Onglet on the degutation or le carte?

←

percyn, I double-checked my other photos and there was a choice between "La Caille" (Free-range quail) and "L'Onglet" (French-style hanger steak). The "Menu découverte" was priced at $129. and that was the end of Oct. 2006.

I hope this helps.

[percyn]

OK, just returned from vegas and filing my report...

The decor and layout is very similar to the sister restaurant in Paris.

I ordered the 9 course tasting menu and a glass of Sancerre

I was served with very good bread, but unfortunately it did not come with butter or olive oil unless asked. They served an organic olive oil from Spain.

Amuse Bouche - Cucumber Gelee, tarragon, yogurt, cumin oil - Light, refreshing, very clean tastes, as intened.

Tuna Sashimi w/Sundried Tomatoes & Fluer de Sel - Very high quality bluefin tuna. The sundried tomatoes were not overpowering as I had anticipated, but rather deicate.

Seared Scallop with Seaweed Butter - The scallop was perfectly cooked throughout (well basted) and served with an increadibly delicious seaweed butter and pepper, which I soaked up with the bread.

Ouef w/Parsley Puree and Mushroom Foam - I had tried this a few years ago in Paris and is one of my favorite dishes.

Roasted Foie Gras w/Chestnut foam and Bacon - I did ask and this was Rouige Foie from France. It was a bit firmer than I would have liked. The bacon did not add a whole lot and getting a bit soggy in the chestnut foam.

Lightly Smoked Scottish Salmon w/Parsley Potatoes - They said this dish was added for the "american palate". I liked the textures of this dish, but found it hard to eat such a large piece of salmon that was smoked. I would have preferred it if they did not smoke it.

L'onglet w/caramelized shallots & pomme puree - I was happy to see that I had an option between this Onglet and a free range quail with truffled mashed puree. I am glad that I chose this option as it was the best onglet I ever had. The shallots were well caramelized and sweet. And how can you go wrong with a pomme puree consisting of 50% potatoes and 50% butter?

OK, so as though 9 courses were not sufficient, I was reminiscing the langostine I had in Paris so added that as a 10 dish from the al a carte menu. The langostine was very tender and succulent. The salad well seasoned and perfectly dressed.

Dessert #1 - Sheep's milk yogurt w/rasins and mandarin sorbet - Amazing dish. The yogurt was rich and creamy while the mandarin sorbet cuts through that richness.

Dessert #2 - Poached Pears w/Chocolate and Pear Sorbet - Another dish that you would not have thought would work, but it does!! Served with Tacchino (sp?) (tastes like chai) gelee.

Also had a coffee to finish the meal. The tasting menu was $135 and with wine, coffee & tax it came just under $200 (exlcuding tip).

Overall, a very good experience, comparable to the one in Paris.

Cheers

Percy

[Elrushbo]

Le Atelier would be good about accomodating one person's shellfish allergy in a party of four ordering a tasting menu, right?

[molto e]

Le Atelier would be good about accomodating one person's shellfish allergy in a party of four ordering a tasting menu, right?

←

Absolutely

[molto e]

On my last trip to Las Vegas, I went to L'Atelier for dinner and upon walking in many of the "Dream Team' were working in Atelier for the night. The team that is put in place in Las Vegas makes it the number one Robuchon destination for me.

Executive Chef Steve Benjamin of L'Atelier

Pastry Chef Kamel Guechida

Executive Chef Claude Le Tohic of Joel Robuchon at the MGM

The new General Manager of L'Atelier is Emmanuel Cornet, he was plucked from the Four Seasons Group. Emmanuel handled the Front of the House with the conviviality that the Robuchon restaurants are famous for. General Manager of the fine dining restaurant Loic Launay was also working the room. The restaurant was chocked full of stars in both the Front and Back of the House.

Executive Chef Steve Benjamin prepared the following tasting menu:

Le JAMBON escorte de pain toaste a la tomate

LA TOMATE en gasphacho aux croutons dores

I drank some champagne with my first couple courses and then this was paired with my next course.

Mahi tartare stuffed with red bell pepper, olive, topped with espelette pepper and drizzled with olive oil, tomato coulis on the plate with yukon gold potato chips with olive tapanade

This was a new creation by Chef Benjamin and it was a hit!

a view down the counter at L'Atelier...what to order???

LES HUITRES de Kussi pochees dans leur coquille au beurre sale

L'OEUF cocotte et sa creme legere de champignons

L'AUBERGINE grillee en caviar aux saveurs orientales

LE BURGER

Meet my new addiction...this is Robucon and those are not ordinary sliders

LE BURGER au foie gras et sa piperade de poivorns doux

What is Chef Le Tohic cooking back there????

Japanese Wagyu ribeye, black truffle pommes puree

The funny part of the night was when Chef Le Tohic was explaining to me that the Wagyu is so rich that it is not meant to be eaten in the same quantity as a regular steak. I was thinking that I was up to the task of eating as much as they had in the larder.

Desserts:

LA FRAISE en jus de fruit glace streusel croustilant

Anytime that I go to Vegas, L'Atelier is the one restaurant that I do not miss the opportunity to dine in.

[docsconz]

Elliot, This is simply stunning and allows me to say that this is one restaurant I will not miss on my next trip to Vegas!