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Savory reds


Florida Jim

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2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Wahle Vineyard:

This wine has not integrated yet, as it comes at the taster in pieces; some blue/black fruit, flowers, herbs, spice and oak all come to the fore at times during the bottle. But there is also an earthiness, as well as good concentration and balance, that is evident at all times and, I think, this bodes well for its future. Hold.

2004 Clos Roche Blanche, Pineau D’Aunis:

Light salmon color and, unlike previous bottles, this was ripe, bright and crystalline on the palate. Prior tastes were a bit on the thin and shrill side but this one was really wonderful; lightweight, flavorful, perfectly balanced and nicely textured. Yummy stuff.

1999 Siduri, Pinot Noir Muirfield Vineyard:

A nice surprise, this smells like a good Chambolle or Morey 1er; tastes full flavored, integrated, cleanly textured and very well balanced despite its 14.1% alcohol. This producer’s Oregon pinots can really be something special. Shows well now but can last and was excellent with a pasta, squash and cheese dish.

1996 Terre Rouge, Syrah Sentinel Oak Vineyard, Pyramid Block:

From the Shenandoah Valley of the Amador Foothills, CA; 14.5% alcohol.

This is, from first sip, excellent syrah, reminiscent of other fine syrahs (especially Hermitage) but at the same time distinctive to itself. Previous bottles tasted since release have been hard and giving very little indication (other than structural) of what this wine would become.

Now, it has expansive and fairly complex aromatics showing mostly black fruit, parched earth and spice tones; deep, rich, juicy, concentration with no heaviness, integrated yet with nuance, good balance, grip and persistence. A complete wine that gives little indication of its alcohol (other than body) and has not been over-manipulated or over-oaked. Has years of life ahead.

Was outstanding with grilled Portobello sandwiches with fresh mozzarella and heirloom tomato slices.

2003 Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueras Cuvée Azalaïs:

Sweet fruit and salty minerality with some floral aromatics and a smooth texture. A wine that one can get enough of before the bottle is done in that the sweetness is not entirely balanced by the saline. Not that the juice isn’t actually balanced but the flavors are not. Good with grilled pork loin and green lentils.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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