eG Foodblog: Jackal10 III - Smoking Bacon and a May Week picnic

[jackal10]

Did you address Scotch eggs farther up?  I've forgotten what they are.

Oh, I can't help myself.  Just how hot are these faggots?  Or, to put it a different way, is there something aside from the name that requires a sense of adventure to try them?

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Scotch eggs have been adressed in other threads: hard boild egg, wrapped in sausage meat, egg and breadcrumbed then deep fried.

Faggots http://thefoody.com/meat/savouryducks.html are liver and meat balls, originally wrapped in a pigs caul. Usually eaten hot, but I like them cold as well.

Its derived from the latin facus meaning a bundle, or bound together. Hence a faggot meaning a bundle of sticks. The culinary use is also mixed things bound together, often made from scraps. I don't know how the term acquired its gay meaning; some say its because historically gay people were burnt at the stake using faggots but this seems to me to be unlikely. A fag is both a cigarette (tobacco bound by the paper), and a junior at a public school acting as a servant to a senior student, and may be the derivation.

Edited June 12, 2005 by jackal10 (log)

[Chris Amirault]

Not sure the garden has a deliberate aesthetic.

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Not to get too far into landscape design and aesthetic theory, but the garden aesthetic that allows for the penetration of the surrounding environment is, I'm pretty sure, a very British aesthetic -- and one I much prefer to others.

Here in the US, the dominant garden aesthetic derives more from French garden design (think Versailles), which has not been about incorporating and accommodating the flora but about excising it to plant geometric plots of things not found in one's backyard. It's more about control of nature, and less about an on-going negotiation of it.

Or, to put it differently: I like what you've done with your plants, Jack!

[Mottmott]

I'm playing catchup reading your blog, Jack. (DSL has been flickering all week.)

Your blogs and postings are always an inspiration, particularly for your blending of elemental and sophisticated cooking, your garden, breadbaking, smoking. And all of it brought together with such seeming effortlessness belied by the beautiful results. Most of us would need to be a half dozen people to match you in the kitchen.

[jamiemaw]

Time to pack the hampers:

Wines;

Champagne: Cuvee Reseve Gallimard Pere et Fils with Creme de Peche de VIgne for those who want

Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2001. This was a present in return for giving a lecture in Germany; interesting to try it.

Rolly Gassmann (Alsace) Gewurstraminer 1996. What else to drink with Smoked Salmon? Rolly Gassmann wines are I think the best in Alsace; even better than Zind Humbrecht. Full and lucious. 1996 was a hot year.

Paradise Ranch 2000 Merlot Icewine Okanagan Valley; Sweet but not too sweet to finish.

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Intriguing selection of wines, Jack. Do you recall the approximate cost, with the exception of the gifted Kabinett? It would be interesting to compare notes across the pond. By the way, the Paradise Ranch Icewine is now a collector's item--or at least its etched bottle is. The winery and vineyards were sold last year to Mission Hill but will still be produced under their brand. It's located on a particularly stunning part of Okanagan Lake, perched over steep escarpments and beaches on the Naramata Bench, part of Canada's only true desert.

Summer temperatures commonly soar over 40˚ C, but the vintners usually have to wait until December or even January to harvest, with 48 hours of continuous -8˚ C temperatures required to effect harvest as Vintners’ Quality Assurance (VQA) Icewine. The icewine vines cannot be picked before November 15, and the finished Brix must be 35 or highrer. The total production from the nine wineries is only about 80 or so tonnes: It's a risk-frought gamble every year, as the fruit is prey to birds, rot, poachers and larger beasts . . .

The former proprietor, Jimmy Stewart, once told me of remote-accessing his vineyard cameras while on a marketing trip in Europe. He watched in horror as a large herd of elk came through the vines, gobbling the late season berries as they went. The sugar-laden fruit had a speedy effect, but there was nothing to be done.

Thank you for the Beatrix Potter moments and relaxed but delicious lcooking—now I’m looking forward to a little Clive James (i.e. “May Week was in June”).

Cheers,

Jamie

[jamiemaw]

Its derived from the latin facus meaning a bundle, or bound together. Hence a faggot meaning a bundle of sticks. The culinary use is also mixed things bound together, often made from scraps.

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The same Latin root that gave us the word fascism.

[ellencho]

I'm now officially waiting for the day when Homer Simspon eats liver and meatballs rolled in pigs caul and says "mmm... faggots".

[jackal10]

The Paradise Ranch is certainly a very dramatic bottle. Nice wine as well. I've got about half a dozen left... It came from a local wine merchant (the Wine Cellar) I think I paid about £25/ half bottle, say $40 a couple of years ago. I see from http://www.wine-searcher.com/wine-select.l...MRHBBH40NX7001C its about the same price in the US and still available.

From what I remember

Champagne was from Alex Riley: NV Champagne, Gallimard Père & Fils, Cuvée Reserve Brut (GH; Gold Medal winner at International Wine Challenge 2000) . £13.50 (Case of 6: £74.00) Also: Halves at £7.40

The Creme de Peche de Vigne was from Earle Wines. Can't remember how much, but not expensive. Same sort of price as cassis

Rolly Gassmann (Alsace) Gewurztraminer 1996. I bought it a few years ago. I think around £10/$18 from Cambridge Wines. .http://www.cambridgewine.com/winelist.html They have the 2001 for £13.99. Richards Walford is the UK importer

Edited June 12, 2005 by jackal10 (log)

[jackal10]

The famous brownies.

Went well, and the food and wine much appreciated. More pix tomorrow when I'm less tired.

The concert finishes with "Innsbruck, ich muss dich lassen" (Isaac c1501), and then "Draw on Sweet Night" (Wilby 1609).

Draw on, sweet night, best friend unto those cares

That do arise from painful melancholy.

My life so ill through want of comfort fares,

That unto thee I consecrate it wholly.

Sweet night, draw on! My griefs when they be told

To shades and darkness find some ease from paining.

And while thou all in silence dost enfold,

I then shall have best time for my complaining.

As they sing we punt them off into the dusk. Very beautiful and romatic..

I'm the one on the back, with the boater and punt pole, pushing.

It was cold and I got back freezing, so I'm having a cup of cocoa with a splash of rum in it. Not something I do often. The nicest cocoa is made by dissolving about 2 oz of good chocolate in ithe hot milk, and whisking.

.

And so to bed..

Edited June 12, 2005 by jackal10 (log)

[rjwong]

The famous brownies.

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I'm not familiar with those brownies. You don't mean Alice's brownies, do you?

[petite tête de chou]

Jack, I fully intend to make a fool of myself...

Ic þe þancas do!

[Tepee]

ditto!

[jackal10]

Some more pictures from last night

The event takes place on Trinity Backs, on the river behind the Wren Library. This is the building the other side of which is shown in the firework picture on Page 1 of this blog. We were watched by a flock of Canada Geese. These have become a real nuisance in recent years, as they leave crap everywhere, and the river banks have to be netted to discourage them.

We assemble the punts into a raft, and reposition it. These are people I was at University here with, and we've doing it annually for over 30 years - when at college I did a lot of backstage theatre work, which was how I got into it. Now we are all older, but much the same. Richard Stibbs, on the right is Praelector and wine steward of Downing College, and organises the web site for the Cambridge Wine tastings.

Burwash Manor asparagus, and some of the finest in the world. The smoked salmon sandwiches went down well. It was an interesting thing to try, but I'm not sure the quality was that much better than good commercial smoked salmon. The smoke, the salmon taste, and the slight sourness from the bread were well balanced, with the butter rounding it all out. The Rolly Gassmann Gewurz, full but balanced. was perfect for the place and the food.

The concert starts in daylight. A good crowd. The weather was cool (12C/55F), but we're British and will pretend its a warm. At least it was dry.

After the interval we light the lights, and at the end punt the choir off into the night. We punt them down river to where the Master's Garden goes down to the river. They sing a a private encore to the Master and his guests, and we punt them back. Fabien (fabienpe) took these. The choir then go and party, and we clear up.

Richard Marlow, the Conductor and Director of Music retires next year, so its not clear how things will go on.

Edited June 13, 2005 by jackal10 (log)

[jackal10]

The pork hock is transforming into porky goodness. Taken it out to cool, and will do the next stage lunchtime.

Meantime I've got meetings and things to do...and more exam marking...

[jackal10]

I'm not familiar with those brownies. You don't mean Alice's brownies, do you? 

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Nope they are made by Anne Bragg, the wife of fellow punter Nigel Bragg.

They are the best brownies I have so far tasted.

Edited June 13, 2005 by jackal10 (log)

[Adam Balic]

Its derived from the latin facus meaning a bundle, or bound together. Hence a faggot meaning a bundle of sticks. The culinary use is also mixed things bound together, often made from scraps.

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The same Latin root that gave us the word fascism.

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The same (or very similar) food item are called "fegatelli" which comes from the Italian for liver (and orginally comes from the latin root for "fig", the best livers were from fig fed birds I seem to recall). Infact, my guess would be that the English name for the sausage is derived from the Italian word, not from 'bundle' etc, but I haven't seen any other support for this.

fegatelli

The images of the concert look fantasitc BTW, makes me realise how rubbish Edinburgh is in comparision.

[jackal10]

Thanks Adam; very interesting.

Next stage of the pork hock.

Components for the mousseline forcemeat, The original had sweetbreads and morels and other exciting things. I thought a sage and onion one would be good. Chicken breast, egg white, a chopped onion softened in a little butter, sage and parsley and double cream. Whizz together, then beat in the cream gently, preferably over ice, until its soft, but still holds its shape. This took about 1/4 pint. Check the seasoning - salt and white pepper. It will need quite a bit because of all that bland cream.

Take the bones out of the hock. Since this has been cooked to falling off the bone stage, its easy. Trotters are more fiddly. Some bone them raw, but I find it much easier cooked. Put it on a bit of oiled tinfoil or clingfilm. Spread with the forcemeat stuffing. You can add a contrasting colour centre if you are feeling fancy.

Close up, wrap up in the foil, and put back in the casserole to poach off.

Edited June 13, 2005 by jackal10 (log)

[jackal10]

Roses

There are over 50 varieties of roses in the garden and to show them all would get tedious. The alkaline clay suits them and apples, as they are the same family. Here are a few favourites and ones of culinary or historic importance.

Rosa Gloria Mundi (Rosa Mundi) ‘Rosa gallica versicolour’. My favourite rose. Said to be named after Fair Rosamund, mistress of Henry II. 12th century

Rosa Gallica Officinalis“Red Rose of Lancaster” “The Apothecary’s Rose" Heavily scented, and used for rose water and rose scents. Of great antiquity

Rosa Gallica ‘Rosa rubra’ ‘French Rose’. Another ancient rose

Zéphirine Drouhin (1868) Thornless and heavily scented rambler, on the trellis next to the jacuzzi. Great rose for where people or kids might brush against it. . Next to it is Ghislaine de Féligonde (1916) also nearly thornless

Guinee (1938); the darkest of all the red roses.

Rambling Rector. ‘Shakespeare's Musk’. Ancient rose, scambling in a greengage tree

Perle d'Or (1884) Good rose for a buttonhole on a summer linen jacket

Edited June 13, 2005 by jackal10 (log)

[jackal10]

We are coming to the end of this blog. Its been fun, if hard work.

Last chance for questions, or suggestions of what else you want me to cover.

Too bad you are leaving. Tomorrow I was hoping to spend some time with Daniel Clifford at Midsummer House http://www.midsummerhouse.co.uk/, and then there is a black tie dinner at the Guildhall in London in the evening. Rubber chicken and boring speeches I expect.

If the Midsummer House visit comes off I'll post it as a seperate thread.

I wa co-founder of Midsummer House, although I sold it many years ago, but the "M" logo, designed for me by http://www.kindersleyworkshop.co.uk/ if turned upside down becomes my initials (JAL). My piece of vanity, that I'm glad they've kept. Daniel has achieved two Michelin Stars there, richly deserved.

Edited June 13, 2005 by jackal10 (log)

[Pan]

It was great to vicariously visit Cambridge again. Thank you very much! And I'll look for that thread on Midsummer House.

[SobaAddict70]

Jack's Foodblog installment will remain open for the remainder of today until early evening in the event anyone has followup questions or commentary.

After that, we'll take a short break for a day or so. Tune in on Wednesday morning when the Foodblog returns to the other side of the pond -- this time to Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

Soba

[little ms foodie]

Your blog has been so enjoyable Jack, thank you!!

The pictures of your gardens and surrounding is very relaxing to me and the picnic looks so romantic!

I love the sandwiches inside of the bread, will definately be trying that this summer for a picnic. And I'm going to try a few of your well picked wines too. Thank you for all your hard work!

[thomasrodgers]

Coming in very late, but no-one mentioned Tartiflette when you were after bacon recipes. Best in winter, but always good... and seeing how you have an abundence of potatoes, seems a good match.

[Chufi]

yes, that bread was inspirational. It was only when I saw the picture of the picnic that I realized how HUGE that loaf of bread was!

thanks for letting us share your life and food this week. It's been lovely.

[Priscilla]

Thank you so much for the rose pix ... they are so lush and beautiful. That pink stripey one that is your favorite is especially lovely. Colorwise, it would be welcome in my pink rose garden, too. Hmmm.

I think there'll be an inordinate number of rustic loaves hiding smoked salmon sandwiches appearing around the world this picnic season. Does the preparation have a name, is it traditional?

[Smithy]

Jack, this has been so much fun. Thank you for wonderful photos and a fine glimpse into your world. It would have been wonderful even without the Suicide Sunday photos and menu.

I do have more questions, if you're still awake over there:

1. The rose is 'scambling' in a greengage tree? Is this a Shakespearean usage of which I'm unaware (there are many), or is 'scambling' some new word I might be able to bring into my own vocabulary? Please define and use in another sentence.

2. This may require too much of an answer, but I'll ask anyway. What are the advantages of cold smoking vs. hot smoking? How would one choose between the two for particular meats or applications? You mention upthread that certain meats need to be hot-smoked to melt the collagen. Are there other considerations?

3. Have you ever tried smoking fruits? Pears, for instance, might lend themselves to a smoky flavor. I saw somebody upthread mention figs as a possibility, either fresh or dried.

Once again, I thank you. Well done, Sir Jackal.