Dinner at Jean-Robert at Pigall's, Cincinnati

[vogelap]

<center><img src="http://www.drewvogel.com/images/pigalls3.jpg"></center>

As reported on <a href="http://www.drewvogel.com/index.php/2005/06/06/dinner-at-jean-robert-at-pigalls-saturday-may-29-2005/" target="_blank">my website</a>... On Saturday, May 29, 2005, Wendy & I dined at <a href="http://www.jean-robertatpigalls.com" target="_blank">Jean-Robert at Pigall's</a> in downtown Cincinnati Ohio.

Jean-Robert at Pigall's innovative three-course prix fixe menu features a delectable array of appetizers, entrees, and desserts accompanied by an extensive wine list. A five-course degustation menu is also offered and wine pairings, suggested by the sommelier, are available for all menu selections.

Wendy & I discussed the menu options and decided that we would both order the five course degustation menu with wines.

Since I am familiar with the restaurant both from eating there in the past and more recently from volunteering there, I had extremely high expectations for the meal. I must report that what we received was nothing at all what we expected -- in the very best way. Here's how the experience unfolded...

After arriving at the restaurant, we stopped into the kitchen to say hello to everyone since it was "half-time", the period of relative quiet between the first and second seating of the evening and we knew that the guys would be more accessible. When we walked in, we observed that Chef was in conversation with a few of the guys, so we waved and moved back out to the dining room.

We were just settling into our comfortable seats in a banquette at the rear of the restaurant when a bottle of lovely Champagne was delivered compliments of the Chef. We placed our order for the five course menu and Tammy, our energetic & personable server, brought to the table the menu placard & stand indicating the five courses and pairings that we could anticipate. As we read it with excitement, Wendy observed that this on-table menu was probably hard-won knowledge that reduced the number of questions from guests to the staff during the meal.

Tammy came back a few minutes later with our amuse-bouche. As she delivered it, she said, "Apparently, Chef is taking you off the degustation menu because I've never seen this dish before. Is it okay with you if he does that?". Delighted, we said yes (as if we could possibly say no to being taken on the chef's fancy)!

<strong>A couple quick notes</strong>: We did not do a good job of keeping track of the wines that were poured with each course, but we've listed them where we can. Also, the designation "<strong>Menu</strong>" indicates that the item was off the five-course degustation menu, though some of the items were modified versions of what appeared on that menu.

The amuse-bouche was Oyster with Avocado Cream & Chantilly Cream served in what resembled a white ceramic shot glass mounded with white cream. There were three distinct layers to this dish -- the smooth avocado cream at the bottom, a couple of cold, briny oysters in their liquor, and a mound of chantilly cream on top.

Tuna Nicoise with Monkfish Liver & Truffle Cream -- glistening ruby-colored cubes of tuna with a disk of monkfish liver on the top and the bottom, topped with a quenelle of amazing truffle cream and a generous slice of truffle on top.

Warm Jonah Crab Salad with Asparagus Sorbet & French Asparagus -- when the asparagus sorbet was delivered, I saw Wendy's eyebrow go up doubtfully. She didn't expect it to be as delicious as it was. This dish, with the wonderful fresh taste of the jonah crab and the creamy cool asparagus sorbet, was one of the highlights of the evening.

Rock Shrimp Open Ravioli, Blood Orange Sauce -- in the kitchen, Matt is always seems to be making pastas out of unusual ingredients. This rock shrimp ravioli was one such unusual pasta, and it was a subtly-flavored, exciting dish. The blood orange sauce and chips of dried blood orange rind were extremely flavorful.

<strong>Menu</strong>: Sauteed Langoustine with Lemon & Hazelnut Dressing, Asparagus & Endive Salad -- another highlight. This perfectly prepared langoustine was delicious and the lemon & hazelnut dressing was a revelation in depth of flavor. This dish is an example of a confident, mature kitchen.

<strong>Menu</strong>: Foie Gras with Smoked Black Pepper & Strawberry Compote, Baby Onion Tart, Duck & Strawberry Demi-Glace -- Oh boy, Wendy & I love foie gras. This dish was presented on a puff pastry tart with caramelized baby onions. A generous slice of foie gras was seared and placed on top. The duck & strawberry demi-glace was a deviation from the menu, but was a wonderfully-flavored addition.

Wine: Baumard Coteaux du Layon, 2002

The next course was a giant Scallop, perfectly cooked and translucent in the center, with Morel Cream & Dandelion Salad and a Citrus Reduction.

<strong>Menu</strong>: Black Sea Bass, Beaujolais Reduction, Beet Confit, Shiitake Mushrooms and Pea Puree -- the presentation on this dish was outstanding. The beet confit were gorgeous and the sea bass was outstanding. The beaujolais reduction proves yet again that the guys in the kitchen know their stuff.

Wine: Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly Cuvee Vieilles Vignes, 2003

<strong>Menu</strong>: Spring Lamb with Herb Sauce, Marmalade of Shallot, Gateau of Carrot, Potatoes, and Cepes Mushrooms -- a few medium-rare slices of gorgeous lamb loin, a quenelle of roasted shallots (very delicious), the herbed demi-glace, and the beautiful gateau of carrot made this a wonderful springtime dish.

Wine: Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage, 2001

At this point, Tammy told us that the sous chef, Todd, had asked if we had room for a cheese course. Undaunted (we're <strong>dedicated</strong> foodies) we said yes, though I was more enthusiastic than Wendy at this point (she's still training up). Soon, the Cheese course was delivered with an ounce or two each of Gouda, Goat, Camembert, Blue, and one other. Served with a delicious Tawny Port. As a result of this delicious course, Wendy & I decided that we like cheese courses and included one in a <a href="http://www.drewvogel.com/index.php/2005/06/05/mas-vino-dinner-saturday-june-4-2005/">recent meal</a> we hosted at our house.

Tammy indicated that we were heading into dessert. Wendy sighed in relief since she was getting a bit full. Her eyes widened when the dessert plate came out -- with <em><strong>five</strong></em> small desserts on it...

<strong>Menu</strong>: Chocolate Mousse, Creme Brulee with Raspberries, Rhubarb Frangipan with Rhubarb Honey Compote & Goat Cheese Yogurt Ice Cream, Coconut Ice Cream, and Chocolate Bisque.

After our meal, we stopped back into the kitchen to greet the guys and to offer our gratitude for their generosity. Chef was more relaxed and came over immediately to meet Wendy (and to receive a kiss from her -- he's no fool!) and to genuinely inquire as to our enjoyment of the evening. He was sincerely interested in hearing our assessment. We went around and talked with each of the guys in the kitchen. Bob, Todd, and Matt all came over and met Wendy, who was a bit overwhelmed by everything.

We were humbled, honored, and appreciative of the outstanding treatment we received during our 4 hour meal at the restaurant on that evening. It exceeded our expectations by miles and miles.

That meal stands in our memories as one of the best we've ever eaten.

Edited June 6, 2005 by vogelap (log)

[MichaelB]

I note the lack of replies, so I will give you one.

The correct date for the last Saturday in May this year is May 28, 2005.

Now, what else in the review is wrong?

[ronnie_suburban]

I note the lack of replies, so I will give you one.

The correct date for the last Saturday in May this year is May 28, 2005.

Now, what else in the review is wrong?

←

I've gone ahead and edited the topic title to reflect the correct date.

Vogelap, thanks for the detailed review. I hope we get to see more writing like this from you.

When business next takes me to Cinncinati, I will definitely be dining at Jean-Robert at Pigall's. It must have felt great to have your very high expectations exceeded. Food moments like those are always delightful and quite memorable.

=R=

[dropkickjeffy]

I, too, had the pleasure of dining at Jean-Robert recently - and loved my meal. In many ways, it was more satisfying than a recent experience I had at Everest.

While not nearly as detailed as Vogelap's phenomenal review above, I wrote about my Jean-Robert meal in the June issue of Chicago magazine, as part of a feature on Midwestern road trips (page 75).

Trouble was, by the time I got to Jean-Robert, I had eaten out at 7 meals in a row all the way from Chicago to Cincinnati - and ended up with a serious amount of leftovers from Jean-Robert.

When I asked for a doggy bag, like I always do, my wife said, "What are you going to do with leftovers? We don't have a fridge in the hotel, and we're booked for breakfast, lunch, and dinner tomorrow."

We decided that the first homeless person we saw on the walk back to the hotel would become the recipient of rock shrimp ravioli with spinach puree and mushrooms, but as it turns out, we didn't see any homeless people.

We ended up leaving the leftovers on the ground next to a mailbox on 5th Street and feeling vaguely creepy about it.

[MichaelB]

I, too, had the pleasure of dining at Jean-Robert recently - and loved my meal. In many ways, it was more satisfying than a recent experience I had at Everest.

While not nearly as detailed as Vogelap's phenomenal review above, I wrote about my Jean-Robert meal in the June issue of Chicago magazine, as part of a feature on Midwestern road trips (page 75). 

←

Ah, so this is the infamous Jeff Ruby -- of Chicago.

I loved the article in Chicago Mag. There were parts that tickled me so that I had tears in my eyes.

Ron, if you make it to Cincy, let me know know first. Drew V can tell you why by PM, please.

Oh, and Jeff, now Chef de Cavel knows what you did with the leftovers.

Edited June 8, 2005 by MichaelB (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

Ron, if you make it to Cincy, let me know know first.  Drew V can tell you why by PM, please.

←

Will do

=R=

[dropkickjeffy]

Ah, so this is the infamous Jeff Ruby -- of Chicago.

I loved the article in Chicago Mag. There were parts that tickled me so that I had tears in my eyes.

Ron, if you make it to Cincy, let me know know first. Drew V can tell you why by PM, please.

Oh, and Jeff, now Chef de Cavel knows what you did with the leftovers.

←

[MichaelB]

My wife, on the other hand, claims I misrepresented her, and wants to know why Chicago magazine's fact-checking department didn't contact her regarding the Taco Bell anecdote.

Jeff

←

That was one of the parts that had me chuckling. Tell her everyone thought it was cute.

[ronnie_suburban]

I thought the piece -- especially the section pertaining to Jean-Robert at Pigall's -- was great too, Jeff. It's really a shame that it isn't available on-line, so that non-Chicagoans could read it as well.

Forgive me if I missed it (and for this brief digression), but are there plans for other, similar pieces in the future?

=R=

[vogelap]

Oh, I'd love to read the article by Jeff Ruby... Is there some way to get a copy of it, Jeff?

I'd be very happy to elaborate on why you might want to discuss with MichaelB before you visit Jean-Robert at Pigall's...

So, MichaelB... WAS there anything else wrong in my report? Nice working with you this evening, by the way. And, I forgot to pick up your card. Perhaps you could PM me with the info?

-Drew V

www.drewvogel.com

Edited June 14, 2005 by vogelap (log)

[MichaelB]

So, MichaelB... WAS there anything else wrong in my report?   

-Drew V

www.drewvogel.com

←

I was just busting your chops. I believed every word.

[vogelap]

Thanks to ronnie_suburban for faxing the article to me. Thanks to dropkickjeffy for writing it in the first place! It was quite entertaining and I enjoyed reading it.

[dropkickjeffy]

Thanks for the kind words. I also wish that the story was online. Chicagomag.com has been horribly neglected over the years, but the powers-that-be are in the process up finally updating it, and - hopefully - getting more archived stories on there.

Ron, to answer your question: There aren't any plans to do similar stories in the (near) future: The last time I was assigned a travel piece was 1998. Chicago magazine just never got much response to the regular travel pieces, so now they're few and far between - and always high-concept stuff.

God forbid they should just send me to Aruba or something.

[Bux]

. . . .

Since I am familiar with the restaurant both from eating there in the past and more recently from volunteering there, I had extremely high expectations for the meal. I must report that what we received was nothing at all what we expected -- in the very best way. Here's how the experience unfolded...

After arriving at the restaurant, we stopped into the kitchen to say hello to everyone since it was "half-time", the period of relative quiet between the first and second seating of the evening and we knew that the guys would be more accessible. When we walked in, we observed that Chef was in conversation with a few of the guys, so we waved and moved back out to the dining room.

We were just settling into our comfortable seats in a banquette at the rear of the restaurant when a bottle of lovely Champagne was delivered compliments of the Chef. We placed our order for the five course menu and Tammy, our energetic & personable server, brought to the table the menu placard & stand indicating the five courses and pairings that we could anticipate. As we read it with excitement, Wendy observed that this on-table menu was probably hard-won knowledge that reduced the number of questions from guests to the staff during the meal.

Tammy came back a few minutes later with our amuse-bouche. As she delivered it, she said, "Apparently, Chef is taking you off the degustation menu because I've never seen this dish before. Is it okay with you if he does that?". Delighted, we said yes (as if we could possibly say no to being taken on the chef's fancy)!

←

You're telling me two things here. The first is that because of your past history with the restaurant you're getting special treatment. Lots of potential diners would have a problem with that. I don't. I can read between the lines and know I may not get the same treatment or food the first time I show up. Besides, you're honestly relating a story of a part of a relationship. What's important to me are the signs I see that the chef really cares about his food enough to cultivate your relationship. I'll accept the criticism many will make that we'll all not get the same treatment, nevertheless it's more important for me to know how seriously the chef takes his own food. From that point on, it's partially my responsibility to get the most out of the restaurant, although I'm not likely to stage anywhere just to get a better meal.

Anyway, you're not getting paid to do restaurant reviews and this is not the online version of consumer reports. It's a pleasure to read about someone enjoying a meal as you did, and yes, the restaurant is one that would attract me based on your post, should I be in the region.

.

dropkickjeffy, I moonlight as a Cincinnati sanitation inspector. You're under arrest for littering.

[ronnie_suburban]

A bit of good news/PR about Jean-Robert at Pigall's from Cincinnati.com:

Jean-Robert at Pigall's in downtown Cincinnati has joined an elite group of fine hotels and restaurants by being accepted as a member of the international association Relais & Chateaux. . .

. . . It certainly puts him in good company. Pigall's is the only restaurant in Ohio to receive the distinction, and there are fewer than 30 Relais & Chateaux restaurant members in North America. They include acclaimed establishments such as Daniel in New York and Charlie Trotter in Chicago. . .

Pigall's inducted into elite restaurant group

=R=

[MichaelB]

I should have posted this Monday, but was traveling. This, to me, is important news -- it is first US restaurant-only (not associated with a Relais & Chateaux hotel) Relais Gourmands outside a major metropolitan market. To date, the restaurant-only Relais Gourmands have been in New York (Daniel, Jean-George, Le Bernardin, Aureole), suburban New York (Ryland), DC (Citronelle), Atlanta (Seeger), Chicago (Trotter, Everest, Tru), LA (L'Orangerie, Patina) and SF/Napa Valley (Danko, French Laundry).

This puts the US in a position more like France where there are perhaps a half dozen restaurant-only Relais Gourmands in smaller cities and towns.

A bit of good news/PR about Jean-Robert at Pigall's from Cincinnati.com:

Jean-Robert at Pigall's in downtown Cincinnati has joined an elite group of fine hotels and restaurants by being accepted as a member of the international association Relais & Chateaux. . .

Pigall's inducted into elite restaurant group

=R=

←

[vogelap]

From that point on, it's partially my responsibility to get the most out of the restaurant, although I'm not likely to stage anywhere just to get a better meal. 

←

I missed this sentence the first time around... I'm trolling some old topics today and saw it.

I'm sure you weren't implying anything, but I am certainly not stageing there 'just to get a better meal'. Even if the kitchen never did anything special for me when I dine there, I'm still benefitting tremendously by the experience of rubbing elbows with a professional kitchen.

I know you know that my motives for volunteering there are pure. Just thought I should clarify.

[vogelap]

On Friday, January 14, 2006, Milan, Brian, Tracy, Ted, Wendy, and Drew dined at the best restaurant in Cincinnati Ohio, the incomparable Jean-Robert at Pigall's.

Our reservations were for 6:00, but we’d decided to meet at 5:30 to have a drink in Pigall’s intimate bar. We perched around the tall table in the corner and enjoyed our drinks (white chocolate martini, bourbon, Pigall’s martini, Rex Hill wine) before Richard Brown, the Maitre d’, led us to our large round table in the center of the restaurant.

We were settling into the comfortable seats when a complimentary bottle of champaigne appeared and was poured. Quickly glancing at the menus, we decided to endulge in the GOURMAND menu along with paired wines. Tammy, our super-fun and friendly server, collected the menus and was off, pausing only to re-fill our glasses.

Amuse bouce: A tiny square white plate with four little bites: capers stuffed with egg on salmon mousse; a slice of potato with a nice sauce; and more.

The first course was Jonah Crab Salad with Fondue and Sorbet of Bell Pepper, Avocado and Smoked Paprika and was served with a lovely Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris - Alsace, 2002. The contrast of flavors, temperatures, and textures in this dish is amazing. The paprika adds the perfect spicy background note and the cold bell pepper sorbet compliments the avocado and crab nicely.

The second course, a special for us, was Lobster Medallions with Watercress Salad and Roasted Mango. An amazing array of flavors in these small bites. The lobster was expertly cooked.

Next came Seared Foie Gras and Ravioli with Pumpkin, Fall Chutney, Duck Prosciutto, Duck Glasse served with Chateau de Monfort - Vouvray, 2004. These were delicious and especially fun for Drew — because making the ravioli isn’t the most enjoyable job in the kitchen, Drew (as volunteer) gets to make a fair amount of them when working. It was delightful to eat, even after preparing tons of them! The fall chutney was wonderfully flavored, and the slab of foie gras was generous and perfectly prepared. Oh, how we love foie gras!

Another special dish, one perfectly seared diver scallop atop julienned ginger and a citrus sauce. This dish shows a confident, mature kitchen. The scallop was perfectly prepared — just a bit translucent in the center — and not ‘fussed with’ too much.

Next came Sea Bass with Walnut and Truffle Crust, Creamy Brussel Sprouts with Roquefort, Roasted Apple, served with a wonderful Jean Garaudet Monthelie - Pommard, 2002. It was dressed tableside with a most fragrant Truffle Sauce. When each plate was set in front of us, we just sat, breathing in the earthy, heady scent of truffles. This was wonderful, one of the highlights of the evening to be sure. Richard Brown, noticing that we were just smelling and not eating, stopped by to tell us about his next invention which will be perfume and cologne that smell like truffels and bourdeaux, and other culinary-related scents. He’ll make a million dollars!

After a short (and needed!) rest, we were served a perfectly prepared Venison Chop with Pomegranate Sauce, Wild Mushroom Quinoa, Corn Flan and Root Vegetable Puree with Horseradish and Chateau de Pibarnon - Bandol, 2000. The venison was so tender and not at all gamey. The chop was cut into perfect slices and fanned on the plate, dressed tableside with the pomegranate sauce.

Tammy asked me if we could possibly handle a cheese course. Having had the cheese course from Pigall’s before (and wanted our other diners to experience it as well), we said yes. Shortly, we were served individual plates of three or four cheeses each, and a large plates with generous slices of four additional cheeses. Cheeses included goat, sheep, camembert, blue, and others. The Fonseca Bin 27 was an excellent companion.

Our dessert course was 5 small desserts on one plate… Raspberry sorbet, pumpkin cake, chocolate bisque, creme brulee with fresh berries on the bottom, and a pecan mousse.

After coffee, we asked Richard Brown if it would be okay to go back to the kitchen. He said that Chef would be “incensed” if we did not, so Tammy escorted us back into the kitchen to a warm reception from Chef (who received grateful kisses from all the ladies). We chatted a bit with the rest of the guys in the kitchen before going back to our table to settle up and say our goodbyes, around 10:30.

It was an astounding meal, and our first-timer friends were suitably blown away.

Edited January 17, 2006 by vogelap (log)

[vogelap]

On Friday, January 14, 2006...

Actually, it was Saturday, January 14, 2006.

[rockandroller]

You can see pix to accompany this post at:

Pigall's pix

Last week I went to Cincinnati on business. I was charged with selecting a great place for my the boss and I to eat while in town; he knows I'm a foodie and I usually "find" great places for us on all our trips (thanks to wonderful foodie networks like eG and Chowhound). These meals are one of the few nice perks about traveling for work. For example, we recently went to Rathbun's in Atlanta, and the last time we were in DC we went to Ray's the Steaks. For this trip, after doing a little research I picked Jean-Robert at Pigall's as so many people said this was THE best place in town and the menu sounded really intriguing. Fellow eGulleteer vogelap helped make our visit even more special. Here's my (amateur) review. I couldn't figure out how to post pix in the actual review here (if anyone knows, let me know and I'll re-post/edit the post; my tech skills are not so great).

As the boss is allergic to all shellfish and some seafood, we requested in advance that the kitchen avoid seafood dishes for us, a request with which they kindly obliged. The menu is prix fixe, 3-course or 5-course. The 5-course has set courses which include some seafood but the 3-course allows you to select your courses so we went with the 3-course.

To start, an amuse bouche was brought out. A small bite of duck confit with cream cheese and pistachio in puff pastry, an herbed egg mousse with tiny bits of frisee greens and a side of rutabaga soup. The soup was served in a tea cup and saucer and was topped with a tiny bit of Chantilly truffle cream. Each bite was heavenly!

I selected the goat cheese for my first course. It was a generous serving of warm goat cheese surrounded by puff pastry, served with Belgian endive and roasted grape and onion marmalade. Presentation was so attractive; I really hope my pix come out ok. Boss had the pumpkin soup and quiche for his first course. The quiche was made with dried fruit, cream cheese and mushrooms. Very tasty.

Our next course was a surprise gift from the kitchen; I think vogelap had something to do with this! A generous slice of foie gras topped with a slice of dried apple topped with cracked pepper and a duck reduction sauce. It was melt-in-your-mouth goodness. To think that there are people in our own country trying to get foie banned, especially considering factory farming practices makes me sick. The foie was served with a glass of ice wine and I suggested we toast to foie.

Next were the main courses. I had the duck breast with kumquat which was served with a side of couscous topped with roasted julienne veggies. The duck was sliced breast meat and was cooked perfectly. I enjoyed the side dish though it would have been nice to see a less commonly-used grain such as polenta or quinoa, but it was a great compliment to the duck. Boss had the rack of lamb which was served with a balsamic sauce and stuffed vegetables. It was very good though I think slightly undercooked for him as he left quite a bit on the plate; he likes lamb but prefers it cooked throughout and ordered it medium-well; it looked more like a medium to me, some pieces possibly mid-rare, but the taste I had was perfect as-is; to each his own.

For the last course, I had the pear-caramel tart with cashew crust and espresso ice cream. Boss had the warm chocolate cake with caramel ice cream and toasted almonds. I think I made the wrong choice with my dessert - this was the only thing I got at Pigall's that I wasn't thrilled with. I pictured the tart as having a strong caramel and pear taste and being somewhat rich. Instead there was a fairly plain pastry tart crust and the topping was sort of like a dried nut/pear mix; crumbly almost like a cereal, and with nothing cementing it to the crust. I also couldn’t distinguish an espresso taste to the ice cream at all. I ended up picking out the filling from the crust since it was just sitting on top and just ate that. It was good, just not great. Boss' warm chocolate cake was wonderful, very rich and when you broke into it, a warm chocolate river flowed over the plate which was delightful.

Courses were served with excellent timing and thoughtfulness and as I said, presentation was delightful. Our server, Michael, took very good care of us; he was very attentive without being obtrusive or hovering at all, only appearing at the right times. Maitre d' Michael was very warm and friendly and helped make our visit special. We were told Chef had left for the day due to a very heavy travel schedule and fatigue (I can relate!) so unfortunately we didn't get to speak to him, but we hope to return on a future trip to do so. All in all a wonderful, memorable meal!