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Florida Jim

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1998 Thomas, Pinot Noir:

Much like a recent 1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir, this shows closed at first; the nose carries a distinctive gun-powder note that I often get from this producer’s wines along with underbrush and light cherry scents; in the mouth its medium bodied with somewhat attenuated red fruit and some secondary development that includes mushroom and earth elements, comes across slightly unbalanced toward acidity but as the wine opens this evens out; medium length, crisp finish. Once open, this wine has several layers of fruit all in the red fruit spectrum, the mouth-feel softens, it shows an elegance not present when the cork was pulled but even so, is still more about structure then fruit; an idiosyncratic wine that is certainly not for everyone.

I think I’ll hold most of my Oregon pinots from this vintage for at least a year or two.

2002 Chevillon, Bourgogne:

Pure on the nose with both red and black fruit scents and a nice stony/dirt/mineral note that underlies the fruit; again pure and precise on the palate with straight-forward, crunchy red and black fruit flavors, a satin texture, decent structure and nice balance; medium length finish. Gives evidence that it could use a year in the cellar but drinks well now. Thanks Bill.

2003 Colonnara, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Lyricus:

This wine has turned out to be quite useful in my house – it has a bitter almond scent and flavor that seems to work especially well vegetables, whether cooked or raw, and has sufficient cut and flavor intensity to work with white meat dishes. Smells of lime skin, almond and mineral; tastes about the same with good acidity and balance; and, finishes clean and longer than one expects from such an inexpensive wine. Ready now and has, at least, a short term cellar life.

1999 Patin, Barbaresco Sori Patin VV:

Maybe its just my sense of smell but where many tasters get tar and roses in nebbiolo, I often get insecticide; fortunately this one has lots of fruit to back it up but I wonder if, as this ages, that high-toned element of the nose I equate to Raid® will become more prominent; tannic in the mouth but, as it opens, deep with plum, cassis and black fruit, excellent structure, a worsted texture in the mouth, concentrated, intense, balanced and long, albeit drying. Paired wonderfully with grilled pork chop with polenta; the tannins all but disappeared with the dish.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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