A Chat with Chef Scott Tycer

[Scott Tycer]

Thank you for joining us this week for the Q & A.

In a recent chat with Nancy Nichols, food and travel editor for D Magazine, there was a great deal of discussion concerning the place of the critic in dining -primarily this discussion revolved around the importance of anonymity to a critic  and how being well known by chefs affected not only the chef's behavior and ultimately the meal that is served, but also how it might possibly affect the review.

1) Are you and your staff constantly on the lookout for critics

2) When critics are recognized, do you give them different service than a "regular joe"? Perhaps without even realizing it?

3) How important is critical acclaim to you? In other words, would you rather have a room regularly filled night after night or wildly enthusiastic reviews in national magazines?

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We are not always on the lookout for critics. We are always critical of our own execution, we are our own worst critics. I have learned that the more time you spend worrying about the next critic walking into the restaurant will make you crazy.

Critics like to hide their identity, so when we do realize that there is a critic here, we strive to give them the same experience as any "regular joe". We want everyone who comes in to feel that they are treated to the highest standard, regardless of who you are or who you work for.

At this point in my career I am still working on building a reputation for myself. If I am starting a dining trend in Houston, I want the message to get out there.

[Scott Tycer]

Scott... several questions for you, please.  Having eaten in your restaurant, I note that your style is not that close to that of Wolfgang Puck, who you worked for... and that's good... each chef should have his/her own style.  To illustrate the point, a friend of mine commented that your cooking was the closest thing in Houston to Alice Water's cooking, rather than comparing you with Puck.  Carl Walker, at Brennan's Houston used to work for Emeril as his sous chef at Commander's Palace in NOLA.  Carl's style is, in my opinion, a little more refined and regimented that of his mentor, Emeril.

What did you take from Wolfgang Puck's operation that you benefit from at Aries and where do you feel you are very different? 

And.... lastly, how's the bakery doing?  I was at your "grand opening" party in your bakery off of Washington Avenue and thought highly of your breads... and have also eaten it at Tony's and La Griglia.

Jack Tyler

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I have been heavily influenced by Alice Waters. I learned a lot of Wolfgang Puck. He is an Empire builder and a great chef, if not more. He instilled in me an outstanding work ethic and discipline. This is what I have personally gained from him, not necessarily his cooking style.

I feel that I am different in my interpretation of New American and the mixing of ethinicities are more subtle than Puck's. For example, where I would use 1 bottle of wine for a sauce, Wolfgang would use 2 bottles for the same sauce to pop out the flavors. Wolfgang is all about bright flavors, where I am more subtle.

[Richard Kilgore]

I understand you have a new restaurant opening in a few months. Can you tell us more about it and how it will be similar to and different than Aires?

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Tha t is a great question. Gravitas is the name of the new restaurant and like aries, it is in an old building. The style of food will be similar in proteins but different techniques and presentation. The feel of the restaurant will be Modern American bistro.

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Thanks, Scott. How do you mean "similar in proteins but different techniques and presentation"?

[Richard Kilgore]

Scott Tycer,Apr 8 2005, 12:56 PM

I have been heavily influenced by Alice Waters. I learned a lot of Wolfgang Puck.  He is an Empire builder and a great chef, if not more. He instilled in me an outstanding work ethic and discipline.  This is what I have personally gained from him, not necessarily his cooking style. 

I feel that I am different in my interpretation of New American and the mixing of ethinicities are more subtle than Puck's.  For example, where I would use 1 bottle of wine for a sauce, Wolfgang would use 2 bottles for the same sauce to pop out the flavors.  Wolfgang is all about bright flavors, where I am more subtle.

Thanks again, Scott. That gives me a better idea of what you are doing. Can you give us some examples of your subtle mixing of ethnicities? Anything on the menu this week that would illustrate that?

[fifi]

We are not always on the lookout for critics.  We are always critical of our own execution, we are our own worst critics.  I have learned that the more time you spend worrying about the next critic walking into the restaurant will make you crazy.

Critics like to hide their identity, so when we do realize that there is a critic here, we strive to give them the same experience as any "regular joe".  We want everyone who comes in to feel that they are treated to the highest standard, regardless of who you are or who you work for. 

At this point in my career I am still working on building a reputation for myself. If I am starting a dining trend in Houston, I want the message to get out there.

←

Hear! hear! from a consumer. I applaud your position on this issue.

[FoodMan]

Due to a work emergency Scott missed Teusday and Wednesday of this week's chat. He has gladly agreed to extend this chat till next Teusday, the 12th, to make up for lost time. currently Chef Tycer is at the Texas Hill Country Food and Wine Festival, but will log in to continue the chat Sunday night or Monday morning at the latest.

He would also love to discuss highlights from the TXHCF&W festival with our members. So, let's keep the discussion going.

Elie

[FoodMan]

Chef-

looking back at past week's comments, here are a few posts that have not been adressed yet:

from PAN

Welcome, Chef! How about a major existential question -- or two?

What do you like best about your job, and what do you like least about it?

from ZEITOUN

Thank you for joining us Chef,

Throughout your career, which chef or chefs have influenced you the most?

from CHEFZADI

How does the region and local tastes inform your menus?

from RON THE PIRATE

Cheff Scott,

I'm a 21-year-old aspiring chef, and I believe I've had a good start up so far. For the past few months I've been looking beyond "just cooking" and have been wanting to move up to NYC and (hopefully) work with the best there. I don't need to hear about being 100% dedicated or understand the commitment involved because I'm well aware and I don't plan on doing anything else in my life besides working with chefs in great kitchens. As I see it, I want to make sure I make the move from being a cook, to REALLY becoming a chef. I'm still banging on the doors of the best restaurants in Dallas, and I'm just being patient until one of them will let me in (at least I've gotten to know the chefs, always a plus).

So, my question is more of a way of seeking advice. As you were moving forward in your career, what were some of the major obsticles you encountered and how did you overcome them? Any two cents you want to put in on the difference between being the chef and a line cook are would also be a delight to hear.

Thank you for time and your words.

[Scott Tycer]

Cheff Scott,

I'm a 21-year-old aspiring chef, and I believe I've had a good start up so far.  For the past few months I've been looking beyond "just cooking" and have been wanting to move up to NYC and (hopefully) work with the best there.  I don't need to hear about being 100% dedicated or understand the commitment involved because I'm well aware and I don't plan on doing anything else in my life besides working with chefs in great kitchens.  As I see it, I want to make sure I make the move from being a cook, to REALLY becoming a chef.  I'm still banging on the doors of the best restaurants in Dallas, and I'm just being patient until one of them will let me in (at least I've gotten to know the chefs, always a plus).

So, my question is more of a way of seeking advice.  As you were moving forward in your career, what were some of the major obsticles you encountered and how did you overcome them?  Any two cents you want to put in on the difference between being the chef and a line cook are would also be a delight to hear.

Thank you for time and your words.

←

First and foremost, chefs are always looking for the highest productivity. It is good that you are getting your face out there and meeting chefs.  The  more you keep coming around, the more they will think about you.  For example, one of my guys came around 3 times in two months and now he is tracking to be a sous chef. 

Everyone would love to work in a great kitchen, but there is no guarantee that it will be that way.  Some chefs get press that they may or may not deserve and some kitchens don't get any press, but are great kitchens.  For example, Houston's - it's all about becoming fast and learning how to run numbers.  While the food may not be everything, you still learn speed around heat and accuracy  around heat, which are very important in the kitchen.  These are the first steps.  In tightly run fine dining kitchens, you need to be fast, accurate and extremely knowledgable about technique.  My question to you is, where all have you applied for work?

[Scott Tycer]

Welcome, Chef! How about a major existential question -- or two?

What do you like best about your job, and what do you like least about it?

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Well, I think that what I like most and least about my job is all relative to how I am feeling on that particular day. There is always so much going on, so many changes - some positive, some negative and they all have an effect. For example, someone being sick and rearranging schedules and taking care of that issue, or receiving a really positive comment one night - it will change the way you

see the business. There are always a series of ups and downs. I currently like the positive praise that I receive for what I do. I never like the bad back and knee pain. I'm sure you've also experienced these ups and downs in your work.

[Scott Tycer]

Thank you for joining us Chef,

Throughout your career, which chef or chefs have influenced you the most?

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Joel Robuchon, Wolfgang Puck, and Tony Demes have all had an influence on my work. Joel for his dedication to technique and the elegance and simplicity of his work. Wolfgang for the way in which he motivates other people. He always demonstrates incredible integrity and devotion to the guests he serves. Tony for always doing it his way and never ever, even after 15 - 20 years changing what he does.

[Scott Tycer]

How does the region and local tastes inform your menus?

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I take a very inclusive view of regional cooking. I consider myself American, I have lived in many places across the United States. It almost seems that if I were to do only Southwestern or Southern style cooking, I would be a food historian. I choose to cook with all of my experiences and use all of my tools that I have gained from living in many different regions. One negative aspect of cooking regionally or exclusively, is that it almost becomes a signature. You come and go in the public's eye. You are unable to evolve and chnage in what is current in food trends. So, I choose to pull from all of my experiences and have those influence my menus.

[touaregsand]

Hello Chef-

What are current set of signature dishes? Do you have a chef's tasting menu?

[tetsujustin]

Chef

As a Culinary student up here in NY but a native to Houston, I have several questions regarding running a high end restaurant in Houston, as I would hopefully love to one day own my own place... hopefully in my hometown.

With the demographics in Houston as they are, what is the makeup of your staff like-- knowing full well of the availability of very good minority workers as opposed to culinary-educated students who have a degree in hand. What is it that you look for in a cook when you hire?

Also, in many of the restaurants that I've eaten at up here in New York and with my fine dining experience in places such as LA and Chicago, I wonder how you deal with the portion sizing at your restaurant... as I know you have places like Pappasitos and Cheesecake factory to contend with even though they are in a different dining genre. A lot of the time I hear Houstonians complain that the food was great, but the portion was just too tiny! Has the 6 oz portion of protein cut it for our Texas-sized stomaches?

Also, do you believe Houston, as you have said that it is a budding restaurant town, is a good place for a student to build his or her culinary career? Or do you think the more major cities such as NY, SF, Chicago, and Boston would be a better idea to work with more well known chefs and restaurants for a student to work at and stage at in order to build up a reputation and skill level before returning to a smaller market to open up his or her own place?

Thanks for any answers you can fling my way.

Justin

[chefzadi]

How does the region and local tastes inform your menus?

←

I take a very inclusive view of regional cooking. I consider myself American, I have lived in many places across the United States. It almost seems that if I were to do only Southwestern or Southern style cooking, I would be a food historian. I choose to cook with all of my experiences and use all of my tools that I have gained from living in many different regions. One negative aspect of cooking regionally or exclusively, is that it almost becomes a signature. You come and go in the public's eye. You are unable to evolve and chnage in what is current in food trends. So, I choose to pull from all of my experiences and have those influence my menus.

←

What do you think is American? I've actually never asked an American chef this question.

[Scott Tycer]

How does the region and local tastes inform your menus?

←

I take a very inclusive view of regional cooking. I consider myself American, I have lived in many places across the United States. It almost seems that if I were to do only Southwestern or Southern style cooking, I would be a food historian. I choose to cook with all of my experiences and use all of my tools that I have gained from living in many different regions. One negative aspect of cooking regionally or exclusively, is that it almost becomes a signature. You come and go in the public's eye. You are unable to evolve and chnage in what is current in food trends. So, I choose to pull from all of my experiences and have those influence my menus.

←

What do you think is American? I've actually never asked an American chef this question.

←

I think American is a cross-ethnic historical perspective that is used as a tool to create a unique identity as a chef. I've eaten sushi once a month for the past 8 years, and it is part of how I eat, just like I eat mexican food and italian food, it makes up that part of me which is American. I beleive American food is traditionally what you decide you like to eat. What food you enjoy in America, is American.

Edited April 12, 2005 by Scott Tycer (log)

[Scott Tycer]

Chef

As a Culinary student up here in NY but a native to Houston, I have several questions regarding running a high end restaurant in Houston, as I would hopefully love to one day own my own place... hopefully in my hometown.

With the demographics in Houston as they are, what is the makeup of your staff like-- knowing full well of the availability of very good minority workers as opposed to culinary-educated students who have a degree in hand. What is it that you look for in a cook when you hire?

Also, in many of the restaurants that I've eaten at up here in New York and with my fine dining experience in places such as LA and Chicago, I wonder how you deal with the portion sizing at your restaurant... as I know you have places like Pappasitos and Cheesecake factory to contend with even though they are in a different dining genre. A lot of the time I hear Houstonians complain that the food was great, but the portion was just too tiny! Has the 6 oz portion of protein cut it for our Texas-sized stomaches?

Also, do you believe Houston, as you have said that it is a budding restaurant town, is a good place for a student to build his or her culinary career? Or do you think the more major cities such as NY, SF, Chicago, and Boston would be a better idea to work with more well known chefs and restaurants for a student to work at and stage at in order to build up a reputation and skill level before returning to a smaller market to open up his or her own place?

Thanks for any answers you can fling my way.

Justin

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At the commis level, I employ hispanics and entry level culinary students. At the cook and chef de partis level, mainly culinary students with experience, occasional south american, european or hispanic. At sous chef level, experienced and graduated culinary students.

Yes, the 6 oz. portion is acceptable these days. Houstonians have agreed to pay the premium for a well-executed meal, no matter the portion size.

I still believe that working in different cities in the United States builds a good chef. It helps build credibility and experience when you do decide to return to a smaller market.

[Scott Tycer]

Hello Chef-

What are current set of signature dishes? Do you have a chef's tasting menu?

←

No, I try not to have any "signature dishes". I do incorporate chef's tasting menus each night. Tonight the chef's menu is:

Gulf Blue Crab with Fresh Hearts of Palm

Leek Soup with Smoked Pork

Spring Chicken with Corn and Mustard

Braised Leg of Lamb with Polenta

Butterscotch Bread Pudding

Ginger Granite

They are priced anywhere from $75 - $95 per menu.

[FoodMan]

This conversation is officially closed to anymore questions. Thanks to all who participated. I would like to thank Chef Tycer for taking the time to answer our questions as well.

Chef Tycer will still log in to answer any still outstanding question.