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Using parchment paper as lids


zeitoun

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I posed this question on a different thread but so far received no reply :sad: . Hopefully I’ll have more luck here:

What are the benefits of covering oven and stovetop stews or braises with parchment lids as opposed to regular pot lids? I have seen parchment lids also used for poaching veggies or fruits for instance. I have read many recipes that call for it and I know that in other cuisines (Japanese for instance) a similar device or cooking method is used with pot shaped wood covers that are placed at water level, just like parchment lids. Does covering any cooking liquid this way produce better results? If so why? Thanks

"A chicken is just an egg's way of making another egg." Samuel Butler
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I use parchment paper over vegetables,fish, poultry and meats when I want to keep in flavor, aroma and moisture. I start off with very little liquid; the paper keeps in all the original moisture, and traps the moisture that develops during the cooking.

The resulting sauce is rich, dense and luscious.

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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Expanding on Paula's comments, in oven-braised dishes where the liquid does not fully cover the ingredients, the paper prevents the surfaces exposed to the air from drying out and browning. The one time I made choucroute without parchment, before serving I had to peel away a 1/2-inch layer of dark brown cabbage that was neither attractive to look at nor enjoyable to eat.

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Keller braises beneath parchment paper lids. He says it keeps the top from getting burned/gunky and yet allows the braising liquid to reduce and concentrate.

I braise beneath parchment paper lids because, before I so much as peel a carrot, I ask myself "what would Thomas do?"

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I like that parchment sits right on the food--unlike a lid, which sits well above the food and creates a condensation cycle. I usually tear a small hole in the center of the cartouche (parchment round) I stick onto my food. That way the pot contents don't get terribly hot, yet they don't evaporate away either. I use cartouches mostly for braised foods, and for preventing skins on mashed potatoes, sauces, or soups that I'm keeping warm in a bain-marie.

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The Japanese wooden drop-lids are used for a different purpose: to weight down the ingredients under the liquid, so that they don't roll around in the pan. A Lebanese friend of mine weights her stuffed grapeleaves with a heatproof plate, for the same reason.

To keep condensation from dripping back into the pan, the Japanese sometimes wrap a piece of cloth on the underside of the lid of a pan, securing it around the handle with a rubber band.

SuzySushi

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The Japanese wooden drop-lids are used for a different purpose: to weight down the ingredients under the liquid, so that they don't roll around in the pan. A Lebanese friend of mine weights her stuffed grapeleaves with a heatproof plate, for the same reason.

To keep condensation from dripping back into the pan, the Japanese sometimes wrap a piece of cloth on the underside of the lid of a pan, securing it around the handle with a rubber band.

It is interesting you are saying that, i am familiar with the plate technique (i am lebanese myself) and do the same thing for stuffed grape leaves or "malfouf", stuffed cabbage leaves. I've seen wooden japanese drop-lids and find them very light, I assumed that since they were so light they weren't used to weight things down but rather acted as parchement lids do, i guess to prevent condensation.

"A chicken is just an egg's way of making another egg." Samuel Butler
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gallery_8703_623_1106277559.jpg

I just had to share this with you all after reading this thread:The Turks actually produce a specific clay platter to hold down stuffed leaves. Not just grape leaves but chard, mulberry, sorrle, fig, cherry, mallow, beet, fava bean and even the stinging nettle. Some of these are so thin and fragile they need something to keep them in place. voila...

Edited by Wolfert (log)

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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gallery_8703_623_1106277559.jpg

I just had to share this with you all after reading this thread:The Turks actually produce a specific clay platter to hold down stuffed leaves. Not just grape leaves but chard, mulberry, sorrle, fig, cherry, mallow, beet, fava bean and even the stinging nettle. Some of these are so thin and fragile they need something to keep them in place. voila...

Wow, haven't seen this before, this is a great "lebanese kitchen gadget!" thanks Paula! If i had to choose between the pig lid and this one, i think i'll take this one :laugh:

"A chicken is just an egg's way of making another egg." Samuel Butler
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I was introduced to the parchment cartouche during a cooking stint in France and now use it during a matter of course in braises, etc. It doesn't weigh things down as does the Turkish pan Paula shows here (what a lovely piece!), but as Carswell describes, it does prevent that top layer from drying out.

No one has mentioned this, but I use it both with and without a regular pan lid. Without when I want some evaporation (it isn't air tight) and with when I don't but want to protect that very top layer.


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One of the most beautiful vegetable dishes of the eastern mediterranean is a vegetable cooked slowly in olive oil under a crumbled sheet of wet parchment. For example, slowly cooked leeks are forced to reabsorb their own moisture as they cook. It is a sort of self basting. A heavy cover is necessary to encourage recycling of moisture.

what other vegetables are done this way? cardoons, celery root, fat green beans and artichokes.

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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...under a crumbled sheet of wet parchment...[they are] forced to reabsorb their own moisture as they cook. It is a sort of self basting. A heavy cover is necessary to encourage recycling of moisture.

yes, thank you. this is it exactly...


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