West Coast Musings

[merlin]

We returned back to Edmonton last evening after an extended long week-end in Victoria where we thoroughly enjoyed the food and wine on offer as well as the glorious, "real estate board/Chamber of Commerce" sunny weather...the snow capped mountains across the Juan de Fuca straits have never looked so close on past visits.

Upon arrival Wednesday nite we checked into our hotel and then headed off to Brasserie l'Ecole. Another terrific evening. The place was bustling. Drank lots of wine thanks to Marc's wine by the glass program and thoroughly enjoyed some steak frites and the nite's feature, grilled lamb sirloin. The endive salads we started with were also delicious with the hazelnuts and lardons adding some nice flavour to the mustard vinaigrette.

Got introduced to "pommeau de Normandie" [move over Pineau des Charentes, you have been replaced!] and a terrific calvados, Coeur de Lion Prisoniere.

The next morning we got up and shook out the cobwebs thanks to some good coffee and a breakfast sandwhich [paninni] at Paradiso in Batsion Square. Then, not having been able find a copy of EAT at the Brasserie the nite before, we tried to find one to "map out" the rest of our stay. Ultimately located a "weatherbeaten" one in a roadside stand and another in the kitchen shop off Trounce Alley.

We did not rent a car so confined ourselves to spots within easy walking distance of the inner harbour. Will have to get to Paprika on another visit.

We lunched at the Blue Crab in the Coast Hotel, the Tapas Bar and on a couple of occasions at Canoe. I must say that I have to agree with Eric's comments about the latter. Great physical plant, good service, interesting wine list but the food seems to need something extra to take it to that next level.

We had dinner Thursday nite at Herald Street Cafe. We had no plans in particular and just headed out without reservations to see if we could get in and if not, try somewhere else. It was the first official nite for Dine Around Victoria. They were "slammed".

I am sure that they were not expecting the numbers they had. Probably did not help that some of their staff were over at the Wine Festival for the program's kick-off. Service was erratic but very friendly and apologetic.

It helped that we were not in a hurry and could sit back and enjoy the "theatre". Some tables were clearly there for DOV...water, coffee and "where is my dessert?" and " I thought you had forgotten us" comments abounded. Others were in party mood and like us, DOV was irrrelvant.

I enjoyed my quail appetizer. A relatively small portion of very good quail served over a "muffin" of puff pastry containing chevre, herbs and mushrooms. It was very good as was the the duck that followed.

My wife had their chicken which she did not enjoy as much but that might have had more to do with the spicing and the fact that she got "clobbered" by the flu the day we left the "balmy climes" of Alberta for the coast.

Wine list seemed to be a state of disarray or reorganization. I seem to recollect from years ago that the HSC had quite the reputation for its varied, eclectic and well priced wine list. We ended up ordering the Sandhill no.2 from its small lots program. This is the mertitage/bordeaux blend I am usually not a big fan of Sandhill apart from their well priced cab franc but this small lots bottling worked for us as did their Barbera which we tried at Canoe.

Friday nite we returned to Brasserie. Another excellent evening. I took advantage of the table d'hote featured that nite which was the endive salad we had had earlier or oysters followed by the main of bouillibaise and completed with either creme brule or cheese. At about $28 [give or take a dollar or two], good value for sure. I think the main changes nitely including lamb shanks, veal cheeks, braised beef, etc.. The prices ranged from about $27 to $33.

My wife's roast chicken was just what she needed. No fancy sauces or extreme spicing. Good partly deboned chicken served crisp in its own pan juices. The type of "simple" course which is too rarely effectively pulled off at home or outside.

Our last nite we headed up Fort to Cafe Brio. Another outstanding evening. The place was also jammed to the rafters. Greg greeted us and within minutes we had our choice of several "deuces". Sylvia served us. I wish I had half her energy.

My wife opted to skip an opener but I tried their gnocchi and was glad that I did. A small bowl of lovely "white pillows" swimming in a gorgonzola sauce came with some delicious pearl onions. So nice to get gnocchi which were not "lumps" of overcooked dough that just sit in ones stomach.

My wife had what she described as a delicious sirloin steak and I went for the rabbit confit. It was a confited leg of rabbit, nicely browned and crisp on the outside and succulently soft, sweet and moist inside. Served with some braised white turnip and onions in a tart mustard sauce that complemented the dark meat without overwhelming. The best rabbit I have ever had.

We had a nice bottle of Poplar Grove Benchmark Cab Franc with the meal which is a Cdn wine I have had recommended to me but the first time I have been able to order it. Dense, dark black fruit with some chocolate, liquorice and spice accents.

A terrific visit. Once my "groaning" liver and Mastercard accounts permit, we'll have to start planning a return visit for late June after a side trip to vist Chris/Tofino up in Tofino.

[barolo]

Thanks Merlin.

Any comments about the lunch spots other than Canoe? I expect toe be in Victoria on a Saturday soon and will be looking for a decent lunch spot in the inner harbour area.

[merlin]

barolo:

I will be interested in what others might suggest because we found lunch to be a bit of a conundrum.

We were unabashedly being "foodie tourists" this trip and due to the beautiful weather and the fact we are otherwise in "landlocked" Alberta wanted to go to a spot with a view of the water.

As a result, ones options are limited. Essentially Blue Crab, Spinnaker's and to a lesser degree Canoe.

The water taxis make the Coast Hotel and Spinnaker's readily accessible no mather where you are in the inner harbour area.

If you do not mind grilled Italian sandwiches or some pasta and the weather is a little warmer, I would go back to Paradiso in a flash and hopefully scoop one of their patio tables which looks onto the inner harbour.

The Tapa Bar has been solid for us. Some tapas [papas bravas, gambas chipotle], thin crust pizzas, sandwiches. It is in Trounce Alley between Government and Broad so not too far away from the inner harbour.

The Herald Street Cafe is open for lunch although we did not try it this trip.

More of a hike...but just minutes by taxi...would be Zambri's for stick to your ribs hearty Italian fare.

Please write what you try as it is always nice to hear new recommendations.

The Ocean Pointe Hotel [operated by Delta] is apparently going to do substantial renovations resulting the opening of a seafood restaurant incorporating parts of its current lounge and the former Victorian restaurant but that is not projected to open until May...which likely means much later.

[Andrew Morrison]

For a more "Victuresque" experience you could try Pagliacci's on Broad Street. It's a lunch institution. Food and service is so-so on a good day, but there is killer atmosphere for those who have never been. Equally representative of "so-so" would be John's Place, just up around the corner of Douglas and Pandora. Beware of the locals (and the line-ups)!

Breakfast? The Blue Fox in Antique Row.

Lunches at Herald Street are excellent.

Check out the new Fire & Water at the Marriot, too.

Il Terrazzo on lower Johnson (across from the square and tucked behind Willie's Bakery) serves up great lunches. Perhaps the best wine list in the city.

If you have time after dinner, go to Temple on lower Fort Street for a martini and a nibble. Excellent vibe. Pretty shishi for Vic hipsters but nothing out of the ordinary if you're used to the Van equivalents.

If you're looking for a place to stay in Vic, this is the best kept secret I know. Awesome digs at a good price and close to everything (especially Il Terrazzo!).

Also, when strolling Government Street, a half hour on Torrefazione's patio is a must.

Perhaps Shelora could chime in here with some more suggestions.

Oh, and if you have the time, drive up to Sooke and visit the Sooke Harbour House and the Point No Point Resort. I've been going there with my family every Christmas for about 15 years running. Sooo relaxing. Food pretty good (better to bbq in the beach hut! ).

Hope that helps.

Edited February 21, 2005 by editor@waiterblog (log)

[barolo]

Thanks for the tips Merlin and editor.

I'll likely be with an elderly, but food loving, relative so some of the hipper, noisier places won't suit us. I have been to Pagliacci's. Herald Street Cafe and some of the other recommendations sound good. All the pubs I have tried for lunch inthe past have disappointed as far as food goes.

Shelora please chime in if you've got more suggestions.

[jayhay]

hellooo...double post (I'm elderly after all)

Edited February 22, 2005 by jayhay (log)

[jayhay]

I'll likely be with an elderly, but food loving, relative so some of the hipper, noisier places won't suit us.

←

Hey...is that one of my sons speaking?

We're off to Victoria soon, & appreciate all the info we're receiving here.

Edited February 22, 2005 by jayhay (log)

[barolo]

Hey jayhay - nope, I'm not one of your sons, but I'm happy to have you benefit from any of the insights posted here.

[whatelyj]

As an expatriate Victorian, I have many fond memories of eating at Herald Street. HSC's caesar salad still stands as one of the best I've ever had (I'm very picky about caesars...both the cocktail and the salad!).

For lunch in Victoria, may I suggest Ferris's Oyster Bar or ReBar...the former has an eclectic menu and delicious sweet potato fries, the latter is probably my favourite restaurant in Victoria, for breakfast, lunch or dinner. If this tells you anything, ReBar is a vegetarian restaurant, and I am decidedly NOT a vegetarian. It's pretty casual, but consistently delicious.

The ReBar cookbook is fun, too...

[stovetop]

I love the rebar

Vancouver needs a good veg place, the nam really sucks, and the food and juice bar at rebar is way better quality. There was a short stint of a vegi and vegan place downtown that lasted only like six months, it was called 24 carrot, I believe they blew their load before opening and became cash poor. The design of the place was amazing, they spent way to much money, they had none left once the dust settled, non ethnic veg places do not seem to survive in Vancouver, there has been like six that have failed in the last few years. Although I love my buds place on main called the green room she rocks. Nice desserts too.

steve

[3WholeCardamoms]

Equally representative of "so-so" would be John's Place, just up around the corner of Douglas and Pandora. Beware of the locals (and the line-ups)!

Breakfast? The Blue Fox in Antique Row.

Perhaps Shelora could chime in here with some more suggestions.

←

We just chimed in last week but i'll say it again.

Cucina at #10 Dragon Alley is quiet and truly the best lunch in the city IMO.

MO:LE on Pandora is the up and coming breakfast spot. I'd try it over anything.

everything else in my opinion is pretty standard. (Paprika, Brio, and Brasserie notwithstanding).

3WC

[merlin]

3WC:

Thanks you your earlier post we did venture through Dragon Alley and located Cucina. Without the unit number you certainly would not know that it was a restaurant until you...as we did...pressed our noses up against the glass to peer inside.

We'll try it another time. My "better half" was not enthused about eating in the darkness of the alley given the day without knowing what in fact the menu had in store...as I said, another time.

Also saw MO:LE and can understand why it has that reputation.

Do a lot of folks in Victoria get up and go out for breakfast or it mainly tourists like us escaping the overpriced Eggs Bendedict on hotel room service menus?

Mind you, my idea of breakfast is strong espresso and plenty of it. We did drop in at Willie's Bakery on Sat. or Sunday a.m. and it was just packed with more continuing to come in as we finished our coffees. My "impression" was that many were fellow tourists, particularly some who had just got off the COHO.

Beautiful city especially when the weather co-operates as it did during our stay. Looking forward to a return trip already.

[shelora]

Well ring my chimes!

We have talked about eating in Victoria quite a few times. I'll try to give it a new angle.

Since I live 3 blocks from downtown, my well trodden lunch path is:

Zambri's - for the entire vegetable antipasti selection or the meat ball sandwich, illy coffee.

Pho Hoa - number 20 small, that's the brisket, no fat.

Daidoco - the octopus salad, tuna takaki, Nao-san's special soups, and the soy-roasted onigiri. Really anything he makes is great. His wife is making giant cream puffs for dessert. Great for an afternoon break.

My Thai - lunch special with red curry.

Grocery shopping in Chinatown, lunch becomes:

Loy Sing Meat Market - for beef flank over rice, lots of chile oil. Weekdays you can eat while Daniell cuts up a whole pig, very informative. Cash only.

Noodle Box - Cambodian Jungle Curry.

Cucina - Whatever is going, its all great. Cash only.

______________________________________

Breakfast

It's a strange phenomena, but Victorians love breakfast. Weekend mornings they will line up all over town. I'm not big on breakfast, but when push comes to shove, here's the skinny.

John's Place - big toast, nice and greasy, great service staff.

Blue Fox - ditto, with house made granola.

Willie's - for the creamy polenta and poached eggs. Tourists and local alike.

Mo-le - fresher approach.

Re-Bar - even fresher.

Shine - new kid in town, bright room, blood sausage with potato tatties of particular note.

Don Mee - dim sum. Dress up a bit please.

Wah Lai Yuen - honey buns to go.

Raymonds - When the pressure of a family get together is unbearable - AKA push comes to shove - it's the all you can eat Chinese buffet. Very little deep fried food makes it not bad.

_____________________________________

Bone appeteet!

[barolo]

3WC:

Thanks for chiming in again, I missed that earlier recco for Cucina.

I'm still left wondering what kind of food one might eat there. I've seen lots of references to how good it is, but no specifics of what has actually been ingested there.

[3WholeCardamoms]

3WC:

Thanks for chiming in again, I missed that earlier recco for Cucina. 

I'm still left wondering what kind of food one might eat there.  I've seen lots of references to how good it is, but no specifics of what has actually been ingested there.

←

Mirjana is born in Israel, raised in Croatia, schooled in London, and had restaurants in TO, then Saltspring (Pomodori), then Vancouver (Pomodori) b4 settling into the Dragon Alley location. Most would describe it as 'Mediterranean Cuisine'. I think, but am not sure, she'd call it the same. Menu usually runs three items (while supplies last) for $12ea. (Although i think someone said it is 15 now?) Roasted beet and yam canneloni in cream sauce is a staple and closest to permanent menu item. This description is weak - but gives you an idea. I don't need to say how good it is cuz that has been done elsewhere. Maple braised duck comes around too. Only espresso, only bottled water or from the tap. Famous chocolate pate.

i know i sound like an agent now so i'll leave it alone.

Breakfast in Victoria revolves around underachievers IMO.

Hence the welcome locals have given MO:LE. There is also a dearth of patios that get sun - so i sympathize with the comment about not wanting to be in the dark alley when the sun shows in Feb. It seems that good food in Victoria is in the shade.

3WC

[barolo]

Thanks Shelora and 3WC!

[Vancouver Lee]

I visited Il Terrazzo for lunch today. I had a terrific pizza with a glass of 2002 Penfolds Shirz/Cab, and my guest has the linguine with chicken, mango and a few other ingredients I cannot remember. I brought an order of their butternut squash ravioli with walnuts back home for my wife, who reports it was excellent, too (despite being reheated).

Great room, great service, and Andrew is correct - an excellent wine list.

[edm]

I am on the island right now. After eating Local organic eggs, spaghettis and pesto for three straight days on Salt Spring island, privileging the view and stunning setting of Ruckle Park's campground, i got to Victoria yesterday in the afternoon.

Had dinner at Brasserie L'ecole. Good endive salad, disappointing duck main ("magret", cooked well..., came with roasted potatoes and unseasoned beans.... are u trying to dry me out, so i can swallow more vino??), good cheese. I love their place, nevertheless, and rarely leave unhappy.

Tonight, after a nice hike in East Sooke Park, dinner at Zambri's. Another of my favourite! Very good meal, started with marinated octopus and squid with borlotti beans and olives. Good balance, good seasoning, satisfying... Then, S.S. Island Lamb, braised, with polenta, roasted peppers and goat cheese. Lamb was a bit over to my taste (they actually braise it "a la minute"...) but very good dish overall. The lamb was of very good quality, and the braising juices called for more bread!!

Dessert was a ricotta cake with poached pear. Simple & nice! And i had to wash it all down with a glass of Grappa.

Tomorrow morning, before biking back, it's breakfast at Wildfire bakery. And i'll pick up some bread for my vancouver pals to taste.

Such a great week!!!

BIG NEWS: of course, being here right now means i am not cooking at Bravo Bistro anymore. The poor response to our food had as first effect something along those lines: "YOU'RE FIRED!". So, it's been quite a disappointing ending to a 3-months commitment to make it happen. But what a PERFECT timing for some vacations!! Such fantastic weather! No regrets...

[treve]

good for you eddy - i'm glad you're taking time to enjoy yourself. and what an excellent time to be in victoria - what with dine around et al.

on that note, visit tourism victoria's website for daily secret diner dispatches www.tourismvictoria.com/dine.

and next time - brio!

[Daddy-A]

BIG NEWS: of course, being here right now means i am not cooking at Bravo Bistro anymore.

Dang Eddy! I'm bummed out now! Was looking forward to some tarts next month. Oh well, get inspired and we'll see you ... somewhere ... very soon!

A.

[barolo]

BIG NEWS: of course, being here right now means i am not cooking at Bravo Bistro anymore.

←

Eddy, I'm sorry I never got back for another wondeful meal. I went by on Monday and could tell that there had been changes. I'm glad you are having a good holiday. Be sure to let us know where you end up.

[nwyles]

BIG NEWS: of course, being here right now means i am not cooking at Bravo Bistro anymore.

Dang Eddy! I'm bummed out now! Was looking forward to some tarts next month. Oh well, get inspired and we'll see you ... somewhere ... very soon!

A.

←

Don't I feel like a shithead. I just got back from the Bravo Bistro. I did not know Eddy was not there. I have been a little lax in the last couple of days and not read every single thread or post. Is my love affair with egullet coming to an end ?

Oh, well , looking forward to seeing you on the stove somewhere else Eddy. Good Luck

Neil

[jayhay]

We just returned from a short trip to beautiful Victoria & area, & used suggestions from our fellow eGullet members.

We found CUCINA, and our lunch there was one of the highlights of the trip. The food was good, but it was Mirjana herself that made it unforgettable. What a character!

Can't say we've ever had the opportunity to hear the F- word & be told to "piss off" (jokingly), by a chef/owner before. As I said, she's very interesting..

Also got to:

CAFE BRIO

BRASSERIE L'ECOLE

PAPRIKA

IRISH TIMES PUB

J&J NOODLE HOUSE

LITTLE VIENNA CAFE/BAKERY

LA COLLINA BAKERY

CHIARELLIE'S (sp?) CHEESE SHOP

All the choices were excellent! Most places, when they heard we were from Vancouver, asked how we heard about them, giving us a chance to pass along eGullet's website to those not in the know.

Mark went on & on about you Merlin, you're a legend at L'Ecole!

Edited March 2, 2005 by jayhay (log)

[BCinBC]

Another ex-pat Victorian with my (possibly outdated) 2 cents:

Pagliacci's - best table bread in the city, large flakes of salt, drool drool. Plus Howie the owner is good for a laff.

HSC - used to be "the place" when I grew up, had my first and only glass of watermelon juice there . I went back a couple years ago with another ex-Vic and it was still fun but the food was only about a 3.5 (out of 5).

Eugene's - small Greek place on Broad just off Trounce Alley, love the gyro!

Don Mee - (relative involvement disclaimer inserted here) really good dim sum, probably the best in the city, but honestly I would only rate the dinner as "good" (fortunately Mom is fairly computer illiterate so I think I'm safe) (and I'll insert another disclaimer in here, which is when you live in Vancouver, your standards for just about any Asian cuisine rise pretty high) (and my parents are Chinese so you know how home cookin ranks).

Sam's Deli - maybe it's because I was friends with many of the "sandwich artists" there, but man those shrimp sandwiches were a miiiiile high! Thanks Suzy!

Torrefazione's - my sister said that Starbucks bought them out; nonetheless their coffee remains excellent. Plus v good atmosphere.

John's Place - if you gotta have dessert, go to John's Place.

[Andrew Morrison]

I'm a Vic ex-pat, too. I did a lot of growing up there and working in some of the places you mention. I grew up in Pag's. Many friends worked there as bussers and dishpigs. Almost everyday after school we'd go in for coffee and have bottomless bowls of their yummy soups with mounds of their bread. We were stupid kids. We never tipped. They'd roll their eyes whenever we walked in. We never understood why. Come to think of it, I doubt we cared. At sixteen those looks are pretty commonplace. Funy thing, though...Howie loved us!

I make a point out of guilt and shame of going big at Pag's whenever I visit the island. The price of penance!

BCinBC, I wonder if we've crossed paths?