WTN: 3 Ridge Santa Cruz Mt. Wines

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We've been sampling several of the latest offerings from Mr. Ridge over the past few weeks, along with one relatively "old" selection, and we liked the following three even better than the latest versions of Geyserville and Pagani.

2002 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay, $24.99, 14.9% alc.: Medium straw to pale gold in color, this offers sweet oak (roughly equal amounts of air-dried American and French) in good proportion to the pretty apple, pear and subtle sweet pea aromatics, with some soft herbal accents that add to the appeal. These follow through in the rich, concentrated flavors, with plenty of acidity and a little minerality on the finish. At first I wondered if it doesn't need a few years to settle down, but it really opens and smoothes out with 45 minutes of air, becoming even more rich, round and delicious, complimenting Kim's fresh baked focaccia very nicely. You might consider decanting this shortly before drinking now, but having said that, these have a good track record for age worthiness, so a few years in the cellar won't hurt this one at all.

2001 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Home Ranch, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot, 1% Petite Verdot, $54, 14.3% alc.: (From Paul Draper's notes; "The name derives from an old California tradition: Wine-growing families who began with vines planted at their homesites often went on to acquire other vineyards. That first property, where the extended family gathered over the years, became known as the Home Ranch. For Ridge, the first ranch was Monte Bello, purchased in 1959. Though we now own Lytton Springs, and have leased other vineyards, Monte Bello is our Home Ranch.")

The Cabernet Sauvignon for this blend comes from 35 year old vines, while the Merlot is from younger blocks. It's an inky purple in color, turning pink at the rim, with lots of Draper perfume and hints of cream and bubble gum over black currant, blackberry and blueberry on the nose; the rich flavors echo and expand with youthful fruit that is more than approachable, a somewhat sleek quality, silky tannins, balanced acidity and a nice finish where the tannins show the most. Extended air really helps this; we gave it 45 minutes in a decanter before pouring, and after another 45 minutes, the wine really sings, showing hints of leather as it opens. As nice as it is now (especially with thinly sliced, medium rare flank steak, Potato and Gruyere cheese gratin and pan seared asparagus), it should drink even better in four to seven years.

1994 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon, 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 8% Petite Verdot, $22.39, 12.8% alc.: This deep, dark garnet powerhouse is showing no rust or bricking in its color as of yet, but it does exude big black currant, cassis and black plum character, shaded with iodine and cedar; the Draper "perfume" is there, but in the background. As it opened, Alan Kerr added impressions of "that foresty thing again; an earthiness, slate." In the mouth, this is velvety smooth, with silky tannins, impeccably balanced acidity and a fine, fine finish. Rich and delicious, intense and concentrated, but no fruit bomb this; rather it strikes a fine, elegant balance between the old and new world styles of Cabernet Sauvignon, and makes a perfect match for grilled ribeyes.

Reporting from Day-twah,

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