Where to eat in Washington DC

[jhlurie]

As late as 1990 I know that Red Sea still ruled.  But according to Steve Klc, the days of great Ethiopian food in DC are long over...

[Damian]

I was unimpressed with the food and the room at Equinox, may have been an off night, it was soon after they opened and the service and food both seemed lackadaisacal and uninspired.  Only one visit so take it for what it is worth.  Kinkead's may not be world class, but I've never had a bad meal there.  Consistent solid performer and always a good night out.

[Steve Klc]

Damian--good to have you drop back in.  I think the question with regard to Kinkead's is not whether it is world class, certainly it is not.  The question is whether it is "national" class--whether it (still) merits consideration as one of this country's elite restaurants apart from its DC location and competition.

It swims as a big fish in a small, insular and often underwhelming pond--which is fine dining in DC--and to me, is much less relevant and less interesting than what is happening elsewhere. Not having a bad meal and performing solidly would seem to reinforce my point.

And Roger, Rupperts remains an interesting, straightforward, uneven, dynamic, minimalist little place with very high aspirations--and capable of hitting very high notes.  Just the kind of place elite food cities should have in abundance, battling it out.

In order to be a world class food city, perhaps what we really need is a little more advocacy-oriented food journalism and less home town boosterism through rose-colored glasses.

[Damian]

I'll buy that, I wouldn't give Kinkead's a national class rating.

Been absent for awhile, Steve...studying for the NY Bar to make myself "legal" up here after the move.  I like the new format though.  BTW, you probably saw that the Food Network is soon to brodcast a pastry competition, don't know the details of where or when but thought you might want a heads-up if it wasn't on your radar screen.

[Steve Klc]

Thanks Damian--is FoodTV your default for background noise when you're studying or around the house?  If it is what I think you're talking about, my wife and I were in it.  We came in 5th that year. (Colleen is one of only three female pastry chefs ever chosen to compete.)  I've talked a little about it on other threads.  If it is not the US National event at Beaver Creek, that I've seen advertised on FoodTV lately (a repeat btw) then you might be talking about the World Pastry Cup, held in Lyon, sponsored by Valrhona chocolate.  The US won the gold there, but the jointly produced US/Canada FoodTV production wasted alot of time on the Canadian team, which really didn't deserve the attention.  Both specials were well done and give you a peek behind the scenes and a good sense of the stress and danger involved.

Incidentally, you wouldn't know it from the mostly unknowing local media--but the DC area has been very well represented in the US event--of the 36 pastry chefs chosen--with the diverse  skills to do this under pressure--6 were from DC, including the overall winner in 2000, Ewald Notter.  Of course, none of the 6 work in restaurants.

The Washington Post saw fit to cover the Bocuse d'Or competition instead--the international cooking competition for sous chefs in Lyon--not in any way showcasing the best chefs in their countries or even cities.  The Post ran an exhaustive, well-written series on the female sous chef from Kinkeads, ironically, who was the US competitor.

Colleen and I have a few pictures of the pastry event on our site and links to find out more.

[sandal]

I'm new to this board, and got lots of good suggestions that I'm eager to try out.  A personal favorite for Chinese food is Hope Kee right off the Clarendon stop.  The egg plant pork hot pot (get it spicy), beef sate pan fried noodles, wontons, are all pretty good.  Not the best Chinese food I ever had, but most satisfactory I've found in this area.

I also like the dim sum at China Garden in Rossyln.  

Does anybody suggestions for some good BBQ in the DC area?

[Steve Klc]

Sandal--why not start a new thread for the barbecue?  as we're getting more DC-interested people--let's ask specific questions and feature specific restaurants in individual threads.

I'll reply--on that thread that you start--whether you've been to Rocklands barbecue at Carpool yet, down the road from Hope Key.  I think that's technically Ballston.

[capcooks]

Hello. Since 1995 or so, I was Host/ Maven of AOL's Food & Drink Network Restaurant Review Boards... and later, the North American Restaurant Review Boards. In the last year, we have become increasingly marginalized over there - and looking for another outlet. If nothing else - and there is lots of else -- you guys seem to be reasonably sophisticated in your approach. That said, my home is in Bethesda... and we eat in DC frequently (when we're not traveling.) Some generally random observations: 1) I'm in the bag for Fabrizio and Dario at both Teatro and Osteria Goldoni - they're both friends. And when you just say "feed me" — just as you were fed with Jose — you get surprised, a lot. I personally have never "gotten" Rupperts - God knows I tried. But it was just too minimalist for me. Palena can be a treat. And a recent visit to Greenwood's showed me a chef/owner who was being sabotaged by terrible servers. Kaz's Sushi Bistro is doing almost everything Nobu, Matsuhista and Morimoto are doing - but without the glitz and hype and NY/LA (and now Philly) press. Been to all 4.

My wife's office is at Dupont Circle, and you're right - it's tough there and around the Farraguts. Levante's is underwhelming. I was not blown away by Vidalia.  I understand Penang at 19th and L is terrific (the one is Betehsda is pretty good, too.)  I generally agree with you about Kinkead's The answer to both Bob and Gerard is they spend a lot of time wooing and PR-ing the national press. (Gerard would also prefer to spend time playing golf.) So they get noticed by the nationals. John Mariani is a buddy of Fabrizio's - so he gets more respect nationally (Esquire) than he does in local press. And I've talked to him about his prices. But when he shows me prawns he flies in from the Venetian Lagoon at $3 each (his cost) - $26 or so for an order is suddenly not so steep.

I'm not a major fan of Galileo -- find it over priced and over rated.

Another $$$$ close to Farragut West is Taberna Del Alebardero - good classical Spanish food. Equinox is good, not great - and service - like everywhere else in DC's high end places - is spotty. Good servers are constantly being hijacked.  Lionel, a server from the original Goldoni - who followed Fabrizio to Osteria and then to Teatro -- is now at Cafe Milano. 9/11 impacted spending downtown big-time. And with a finite numbert of good - not even great -- servers - they move around.

I think I'm trying to do too much with this first post. ANyhow - just wanted to introduce myself. I'll be back.

[Steve Klc]

You didn't try to do too much cap--and your experience is welcome and appreciated.  I think I'd like to comment on what you didn't comment on:  ever eaten at Tosca or are you too close to Fabrizio/Goldoni to assess fairly? how about DC Coast and Citronelle? you've rounded up most of our usual suspects otherwise.  I have another one for you--the Elysium in Old Town, especially with respect to your observation about service in DC.

I ate there on Saturday night and the service was the most flawless and sincere I've experienced at the high end down here--and Gian Piero, the chef, even comes out to your table instead of being presented a formal menu.  Been yet?

[Malawry]

I was a big fan of Kaz for a while. I loved some of the Japanese tapas on the menu there, and the sushi really sparkled. But then they started having trouble with the health department. Does anybody know the full story on this? They were listed a few times in the weekly health department closings and I've been too nervous to return since. I mean, an upscale sushi restaurant that has cleanliness issues? SUSHI? I don't get it.

I thought the food at Penang was passable but not memorable. Full disclosure: I've only eaten once in the downtown location, and I had a lunch special. Is the food at dinner appreciably better? The service was terrible but I'm willing to forgive since they's only been open a month or so when I went there. Everybody has kinks to work out, after all.

I am surprised by the accolades you're heaping upon Osteria. I work in the building that houses the restaurant, so I get taken there by vendors and such periodically. (It's convenient if nothing else.) I think the food there is solid but not particularly creative, and the dishes I've had there do not represent superlative examples of standard dishes. I'd rank it as "very good" but not "noteworthy." I do keep meaning to go there for happy hour sometime since they clearly want the business and since I've heard the chef sends nice little plates of savories out for early bar customers.

Edit disclosure: I meant to say Osteria dishes are not superlative examples of standard dishes, and the text now reflects this.

[sandal]

I'd been to Kinkhead's a few years ago, and did not think much of it.  However, I always thought there had to be something wrong with me since it's supposed to be one of DC's best.  This board confirms that my initial reaction was not necessarily wrong.  

Penang did not impress me too much.  The interior is very nice, although some of the chairs are uneven in height.  My date was considerably taller on the other side of the table.  The appetizers were good and the main dishes were solid.  The service was bad.  However, I was not in a rush to go anywhere, and the less attention actually made the conversation flow better.

I went to Kaz for lunch and was very disappointed.  Perhaps the kitchen focuses more on the regular menu than the bento specials.  However, if that is the case, they shouldn't offer any such thing.  It was overpriced and not good at all.  I will give the sushi another try though.  The rolls at Uni (Dupont) were quite creative and tasty.  A friend said the sushi was pretty good.

[capcooks]

Are you too close to Fabrizio/Goldoni to assess fairly? how about DC Coast and Citronelle? you've rounded up most of our usual suspects otherwise.  I have another one for you--the Elysium in Old Town, especially with respect to your observation about service in DC.

I ate there on Saturday night and the service was the most flawless and sincere I've experienced at the high end down here--and Gian Piero, the chef, even comes out to your table instead of being presented a formal menu.  Been yet?

My personal relationship with Fabrizio goes back to '97 - when I was introduced to him in - of all places - the men's department of the Ft. Lauderdale Galleria's Sak's -- by a mutual friend who spotted my wife. We were killing time before a business meeting - Fabrizio and my wife's friend were down to go on a cruise with their wives. Short version: we had just come back from Venice and when I mentioned the restaurants we had found, he said "Oh, you know food." (Not a Tourist Trap in the bunch.) "You have to visit my restaurant." Which we subsequently did. Over the years I have been instrumental in his participation in the Children's Hospital Wine Auction and put together a cookbook proposal for him (back-burnered when he closed and then opened 2 restaurants.) So we're spoiled. And I know we're treated differently than most people (which is why people want to go there with us - and some have less stellar experiences when they go alone. I know.  And I go back almost as far with Dario, now completely in charge at Osteria. Fabrizio swings for the fences: sometimes he hits home runs, sometimes he strikes out. For us, more often than not, it's a home run. Dario, on the other hand, is as consistent as a machine. They have different sensibilities, too. Venetian cuisine - from Fabrizio's birthplace - is a little odd to American tastes. Fabrizio's been influenced by his travels -- which is why he calls his "Venetian World Cuisine." You might find his take on Asian food filtered through his Venetian heart, for instance. Dario, on the other hand, is from Puglia - which provides different taste foundations to his cooking. I remember years ago when Italian food was either Southern (red sauce pasta on checkered tablecloths) or Northern (where's the tomato sauce?). Now there's Milanese and Tuscan and Ligurian and Piemontese -- and they're all a little different.

That said, we've been known to hit other places in town over the years. We were among the first to go to Citronelle - in shakedown phase 10 years ago. And have been back many times... the most recent was Christmas Day. When Michel is there, it's a terrific experience. When he's not in the kitchen... it's not quite the same experience.

First ran into Jeff Tunks at the River Club -- where he made such an impression on Phyllis R that no one else stood a chance. She managed to trash Jeff Tomchek (later of Old Angler's), Frank Ruta and I don't know how many others simply because they were NOT Jeff Tunks. Caught up with his smoked lobster on crispy spinach in San Diego when he was at the Lowes hotel there. And at DC Coast -- he's doing essentially the same thing he did years ago. Doing it very well. But it's such a difficult resso to get... I give up more often than not.  As for Tehn Pehn - it's a lot like Roy's (Yamaguchi - started in Hawaii, branched to West Coast and Tokyo- then chained by Outback): Pan Asian filtered through an American sensibility. Well done. Neat decor. Not authentic - and not trying to be. Just tasty.

As for Old Town - we seldom venture across the river. In fact, I'm guilty of not exploring DC enough. But we tend to entertain at home when we are home. (Or hit local neighborhood places - like South Beach Cafe, Black's, Persimmon in Bethesda). And when we travel, we bend the plastic seriously. (This weekend, we'll be at Jean-Georges and Atlas in NYC.) Our kids live in NYC and LA -- and we had a business (and still have friends) in South Florida. So we tend to spend our dining out bucks outside the city more than inside. (And outside the city doesn't really count Montgomery County - where the insane wine laws put  every restaurant wine list at a complete disadvantage vis a vis DC lists.) So, to field to your question about Elysium: no. Haven't been yet.

[Steve Klc]

Off-topic, but why the choice of Atlas?

And, wow, thanks for the time it took to pull all that together.  I'm in the same position you're in w/ Fabrizio and Dario--but with Jose Andres because he's a good friend.  He cooked for my wedding.  It helps that lots of other knowledgeable people think he's one of the best chefs in the country--so when I write about him I'm covered.  And I'm at db in NYC on Friday--let's exchange reports when we get back.

Because I live in Virginia I'm guilty of not heading to Maryland enough--though did make it to Mannequin Pis about a month ago, before the Olney Theater, and was very charmed by the place.  I haven't mentioned it yet here--nor my recent excellent meals at Cafe Majestic, The Elysium and at Restaurant 7 in depth--just because I haven't felt us reaching any kind of critical mass of interest yet.  Your presence has helped change my view a bit and hope you join Malawry and the rest of the gang as we grow.

[capcooks]

Off-topic, but why the choice of Atlas?

And, wow, thanks for the time it took to pull all that together.  I'm in the same position you're in w/ Fabrizio and Dario--but with Jose Andres because he's a good friend.  He cooked for my wedding.  It helps that lots of other knowledgeable people think he's one of the best chefs in the country--so when I write about him I'm covered.  And I'm at db in NYC on Friday--let's exchange reports when we get back.

Because I live in Virginia I'm guilty of not heading to Maryland enough--though did make it to Mannequin Pis about a month ago, before the Olney Theater, and was very charmed by the place.  I haven't mentioned it yet here--nor my recent excellent meals at Cafe Majestic, The Elysium and at Restaurant 7 in depth--just because I haven't felt us reaching any kind of critical mass of interest yet.  Your presence has helped change my view a bit and hope you join Malawry and the rest of the gang as we grow.

Atlas was choice of NYC AOL'ers - kind of a last hurrah fleshmeet (I'd write "cum wake" - but that word has been expropriated on the internet, so I guess it's sort of not used much any more.)

I first met José at the Old Angler's Inn Capital Cooks with Books dinner with Rick Bayless. (Jeff Tomchek knew Rick from his Chicago days - and chortled with glee when Rick got the Beard award over Charlie Trotter back in '95. Jeff cooked for our wedding.) Sometimes it's tough to be objective about chef friends.

I forgot to mention Marcel's. Your Mannekin Pis reference reminded me - Bob Weidemeir's doing interesting things in the old Provence space on Penna Ave. Brussels/ Belgian style "continental" - i.e. French. First found Jaffur's Grenache there on the list - later found it in NYC at Palladin. (Speaking of which, has anyone been to Timothy Dean's? He was J-L's exec chef in NYC... especially when J-L was in Las Vegas at Napa. Now he's got his own place at 16th and K -across from Olives {which is OK, but not stellar - and noisy.})

As for Restaurant 7 - please post. There's got to be something near the "Tyson's shopping experience" besides either the beeper-palaces or the overpriced. (Did someone mention Bob Kinkead's Colvin Run Tavern? Boy was I snookered. Went there thinking a tavern would be casual, homey... got Virginia horsey-style  "elegance" and high tickets. The food was good. The value? Let's just say: at those prices, it better be at least good. )

[SamanthaF]

I'm back in DC this weekend, and I must say, with all of the information entered here over the last couple of months I am now well armed.  Thanks All

[Malawry]

As I mentioned before, I work in the building that houses Osteria Goldoni. Well, it closed a few weeks ago "for renovations," and now there's a banner up saying it will reopen in May as Vida, serving Latin American cuisine. Is it the same owners/chef? Anybody know anything about this?

[Steve Klc]

Don't know whether this is true or not Malawry--but it is hardly surprising.  Mediocre Italian has had its run. Spanish food and the Latin subset is destined to supplant Italian--with paella becoming as ubiquitous as risotto--that is, if Jose Andres has anything to say about it.  I'd put my money on him. We've already mentioned elsewhere about the attention Gourmet has paid to Spain, Amanda had a whirlwind 4 day Spain trip, the stars are in alignment.  Shrewd move if Goldoni is converting--I mean, if other chefs around town can go on vacation and come back to reinvent their restaurants as Latin, why can't he?

[deirdre]

I first met José at the Old Angler's Inn Capital Cooks with Books dinner with Rick Bayless. (Jeff Tomchek knew Rick from his Chicago days - and chortled with glee when Rick got the Beard award over Charlie Trotter back in '95. Jeff cooked for our wedding.) Sometimes it's tough to be objective about chef friends.

Capcooks, I'm picking up this post awfully late, I worked with Jeff Tomchek at McCormick & Schmicks before he decided to move back to Chicago. I always thought that M&S was a strange place for him to be working but I certainly enjoyed working with him (and eating his food). If you talk to him, tell him I said hello and big hug.

Deirdre

[Suzanne F]

Will be spending a weekend in DC in early December. Any new places worth trying?

[foodgeek]

As late as 1990 I know that Red Sea still ruled.  But according to Steve Klc, the days of great Ethiopian food in DC are long over...

Red Sea is gone. Closed a few months ago or so.

I like Meskerem, and don't like Fasika's.

[foodgeek]

I thought the food at Penang was passable but not memorable. Full disclosure: I've only eaten once in the downtown location, and I had a lunch special. Is the food at dinner appreciably better? The service was terrible but I'm willing to forgive since they's only been open a month or so when I went there. Everybody has kinks to work out, after all.

.

For Malaysian I prefer Malaysia Kopitaim in the Dupont Circle area.

[gullet]

As for spots to eat, I'll give a quick run down...

Italian - Pasta Mia

It's in Adams Morgans and all the pasta dishes are hearty and reasonable priced <$12. Some may find the pasta dishes to be oversauced and have too much cheese but it' my favorite Italian so far. Have not tried Galileo, Obelisk, or Goldoni.

Japanese - Makoto

Hands down the best Japanese restaurant in DC. I've tried Sushi-Ko, Kaz Sushi Bistro, and others but for price and interesting dishes, I have to recommend Makoto off MacArthur Boulevard. It's hard to find and the restaurant is tiny, about 10 seats at the bar and maybe 5 2 person tables but it also has the freshest sushi I've had here. At $45 for its fixed course menu of 8 - 10 dishes, it's a dining experience worthy of any of the best NY Japanese restaurants at 1/2 to 1/3 the price.

Chinese - Mark's Duck House

Better than Peking Gourmet Inn and of more consistent quality than Full Kee, Mark's has been my favorite Chinese restaurant since I first read about it in a Washington Post article on Chef's Night Out. It serves good Hong Kong style Cantonese food where if you plan ahead, can order a whole roasted pig. Stick with the Cantonese dishes, and you won't be disappointed and it serves a really good Hot and Sour Soup.

Vietnamese - Viet Royale

Right next to Hong Que (Four Sisters), I find Viet Royale serves better food. Given that menus for both of the restaurants are extensive, not much to compare there.

Spanish - Taberna Alberdero

It's expensive and without much competition.

Thai - Crystal Thai off Route 50

I find it has the spiciest but still not Thai spicy dishes in the city.

[foodgeek]

I was disappointed with Hong Que (Four Sisters), but haven't tried Viet Royale. I like Taste Of Saigon in Tysin's Corner (and Rockville.)

[hjshorter]

Because I live in Virginia I'm guilty of not heading to Maryland enough--though did make it to Mannequin Pis about a month ago, before the Olney Theater, and was very charmed by the place.

Reviving this thread...

Scott and I ate at Mannequin Pis for my birthday last year and had a charming meal - once we found it. Has anyone else made the trek? If you like Belgian beer it is absolutely worth the trip. We are thinking of going back next month.

[Steve Klc]

I haven't been back since then Heather but would if I ever had a reason to be out there. I'd be interested in hearing your report of the place. A micro-coffee roaster opened up in that same strip, didn't it? I seem to recall a Sietsema chat or a Foraging column which mentioned it. Even if I weren't situated where I am, I'd go to Bistro Lepic and Le Relais instead, each of which offer lower-priced better value alternatives to their regular dining rooms--and both which operate at a higher, more interesting level than Mannequin Pis--but that's based on just one visit to Pis.

If you rave we might just go back!