Best Steak In Vancouver

[dodger]

Finally....

After many days of lurking and waiting...waiting and lurking...I finallly have the power to post!!

All kidding aside, I have relished in the comments and stories flying around on eGullet for awhile now but prefered to sit on the sidelines and take it all in.

Feeling out the board you might say....

Well, I am going to take a leap of faith and post a topic that is close to my heart..beef.

Many things are close to my heart...don't get me wrong...beef is just VERY close to my heart...(read: clogged arteries, high levels of BSE coursing through my veins, etc...)

As I sit here, you are enjoying an evening of Bourdain, food, libation and good cheer.

I am enjoying a cheap sherry, over-done roast beast and my 4 year old son running around thinking he is Mr. Incredible. I knew going on opening day would be silly (I prefer the DVD version of any Pixar movie!) but against all good judgement I went.

Of course I was trying to compensate for not seeing Bourdain....but....

I did get a chance to pick up his latest...brillant....from the style of the book to the info contained therein...brillant...

So...the question is: Does dodger use to many"........" in his posts......no sorry...

The best steak in town .....period.....

Where? When did you have it?

I look forward to responses from my first post.

I don't expect any until late in the afternoon, after you have all recovered from last night!!!!!

Cheers......

John

PS...the little grumpy face is me pressed against the window of HSG wishing I was buying up all of Daddy-A's consulting time and changing plans for my new kitchen every hour on the hour for 4 hours straight!!!! Consider it my first dig on eGullet!!!

I do expect to be thouroughly punished for this!!!

JB

Edited November 6, 2004 by dodger (log)

[Tete Carre]

Hmmm..Best Steak Ever? I'm not sure you're going to like this but....

Date: Sunday October 18

Location: My Kitchen

Steak: Dry aged Hanger steak (or in Tony Bourdain speak an Onglet steak)

Prep: Dry rubbed with a bit of fresh garlic

Method: Pan seared just beyond blue

Served with fresh ground black pepper, sea salt and finely chopped shallot.

Honestly cannot remember what else was served except for a very good Yakima valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This steak was tender, juicy and so flavourfull you just wanted to say moo !

Honestly I think secret to a great steak is like many things, in particular great wines, if you start off with a really good 'raw' material it's dead easy to create the best ....... (fill in the blank here.

So, it's off the the 'Best Butcher in Town' thread for me!

Cheers.

[Foodie in Vancouver]

Tete Carre:

Where did you get the hanger steak? I have never seen it in any of the butcher shops I use so I would love to know where I can get this cut.

The best steaks I have had have not been in Vancouver, but mainly because I rarely order steak in Vancouver (but when I do, I order it rare). There is just too much else that is so good and of the quality and creativity hard to find anywhere else.

One of the 2 best steaks I have had was at a restaurant in Brooklyn and it was a hanger steak with an amazing sauce, almost as good as that which was on the Blue Goose shortribs last night at the HSG.

The other great steak was at a place called Dago Joe's in Ajo, Arizona. An obscure town and an even more obscure restauarant in a garage/deli/butcher shop. And even weirder was the National Fiddlers Contest being held in the Elk's Hall that night. Middle of nowwhere and there were 300 people jammed into the Elk's Hall listening to awesome bluegrass and fiddle music. But I digress - the steak was a rib eye and was the size of the plate. The wait staff were also the staff from the butcher shop/deli and you could order wine - red or white, imported or domestic. That was the wine list. Place was packed with more characters than a Robert Altman movie. But damned if it wasn't the most incredible steak. Two dinners, 3 Corona's, 1 red wine, imported was $29 US.

[Coop]

Tette you better come up with your hangar steak source. I absolutly love this cut. The only place in Vancouver I've had one was at Elixer. Le Pichet in Seattle does one and Cafe Campagne pretends to but it's tri tip. Cafe de Paris used to do a good steak. Going to reserve judgement though until I try a steak at the HSG.

[montrachet]

I too have fond memories of the hangar steak I had at Le Pichet. Didn't know that Elixir had it on their menu.

Would love to find out where Tete Carre found this cut of beef.

[Chef Fowke]

I too have fond memories of the hangar steak I had at Le Pichet. Didn't know that Elixir had it on their menu.

Would love to find out where Tete Carre found this cut of beef.

←

Not a commonly known steak, I had no idea of what cut the 'Hangar Steak' was, I guested it refered to the gold rush in San Fran and the last meal criminals were given, ie. Hangtown Fry.

But as I read further I find out:

According to James Rodwell at Gourmet, its function is to push the secretions out of the pancreas gland. Fortunately, it doesn't taste like those secretions. According to Julia Child (see THE ART OF FRENCH COOKING, vol.1), the hanger steak -- also known as the hanging tender and the butcher's steak -- is the same as the French cut of beef onglet. It consists of two small muscles joined by an elastic membrane that supports the animal's diaphragm. According to the latest edition of the LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIC,

The butcher splits it open, trims it, and removes all the skin and membrane. Onglet must be well hung; the meat is then tender and juicy. In the past it was not a popular cut, but it is now accepted that it makes a prime steak. Whether fried or grilled, it should be eaten rare, otherwise it becomes tough.

I worked with this cut, know as Onglet, but I doubt it is used often in North America. I am going to guess that Elixer is using the flatiron steak, from the neck/shoulder. When I talk to the butchers I know in Vancouver none of them can remember the last time the sold an onglet...it is ground for hamburger!

I hope I am wrong...

[chasmartel]

If you will pardon a non-BC interloper, iI've got to weigh in on hanger steak which is my currect favorite. In the SF Bay Area, Hanger Steak is very popular right now and as a result, it is available, but has gotten expensive. I've seen it up to $15/lb. (Skirt steak is also popular & increasingly expensive and more available)

Last time I cooked was for in-laws from Maryland. I prepped it with salt & pepper after breakfast for the grill that night. I made a little sauce of garlic, anchovies, parsley & olive oil (from Richard Olney). It was really really good & made terrific sandwiches the next day.

[Chef Fowke]

If you will pardon a non-BC interloper, iI've got to weigh in on hanger steak which is my currect favorite.  In the SF Bay Area, Hanger Steak is very popular right now and as a result, it is available, but has gotten expensive.  I've seen it up to $15/lb.  (Skirt steak is also popular & increasingly expensive and more available)

Last time I cooked was for in-laws from Maryland.  I prepped it with salt & pepper after breakfast for the grill that night.  I made a little sauce of garlic, anchovies, parsley & olive oil (from Richard Olney).  It was really really good & made terrific sandwiches the next day.

←

It is great steak! But you only get one portion from each animal; I am amazed that a center like San Fran, with all its restaurants, can support this item, at multiple locations...

Quick Math:

Let's say it is on 20 restaurant menus and they sell 30 portions a night, each...

20x30x7x52=218,400 animals a year.

An average 'on the rail' animal weights is 600lbs

That means that their would be in excess of 131,040,000lbs of other cuts on the market. Meaning each person in San Fran (728,921) would need to consume 180lbs of meat a year or 1/2 a pound a day.

That seems a little high.

Maybe another cut is being substituted?

[dodger]

Mmmmmm Hangar Steak......grilled with red wine reduction,creamy risotto cake and grilled radicchio.

Fantastic.....

"It's often ground in hamburger (or butchers just take it home), but some people claim that its grainy texture and intense flavor make it a first-rate steak (if marinated first). It's better known in France than in the United States, so you'll probably have to ask your butcher to set one aside for you"

The hangar steak is a French favourite where it is known as onglet and is the traditional steak for steak frites.

Above is from website: http://www.foodsubs.com/MeatBeefB&F.html

"(or butchers just take it home)" Thus the name "butcher's cut" or butcher's steak

This is a very popular cut in San Fran right now and Restaurant Zoe serves up a beauty(in Seattle) I would guess it is a matter of time as it creeps up the coast and settles in Vancouver where we will all praise it as the best.

Maybe another cut is being substituted?

They might be substituting skirt steak???

Edited November 9, 2004 by dodger (log)

[Daddy-A]

So am I to understand this "hangar steak" or "onglet" is a fine cut of meat .... but is not available in Vancouver? Or at least not in Vancouver restaurants? If not now when? If "never" is there a close substitute?

Excuse me if I ask "silly" questions about beef. Unlike peppyre, I am not bovine obsessed ... or even steak-savvy

A.

Edited November 9, 2004 by Daddy-A (log)

[Foodie in Vancouver]

I am not bovine obsessed, but the hangar steak I had in Brooklyn was definitely the tastiest, best beef I can ever remember having. I have since asked for it and looked for it on menus without success. I am thrilled to hear that it is available at Elixir because I bought a gift certificate for Elixir at the Big Night Dinner. Bet you can guess what I will order!

And if it is in Seattle then we better get it here - can't let them have something we don't have.

[nwyles]

Just a quick note on the Hanger Steak.

My rep from Intercity Packers was in and I asked him for 10 kilos of hanger steak. He said he could special order that from Cargil. We could probably get it next week as it was only Tuesday.

These guys are probably the biggest meat supplier in town ( others may argue that but for fun lets just say they are ).

I think that some of these places are serving a skirt steak or something else. This product is available but not with-out pre-ordering. The other cuts you can order for same day.

[peppyre]

Umm...Neil, when did you say this was coming in? Should I make reservations or something?

I was actually planning on asking my butcher if he can get this for me, does anyone think it's actually possible?

[nwyles]

Umm...Neil, when did  you say this was coming in?  Should I make reservations or something?

I was actually planning on asking my butcher if he can get this for me, does anyone think it's actually possible?

←

I think that this is a case of the widespread use of skirt steak or perhaps flatiron steak and calling it hanger steak.

N

[Edible Vancouver]

I would like to make a reservation when it comes in too, as now I am very keen to try it. Neil - please let us know when it arrives!

[dodger]

Neil...if you get it in I'm down at HSG for sure...not that I haven't been before..yummy!...but would love to hear how you might prepare it....

Maybe we should organize a "eGullet-eGorge" and enjoy this wonderful cut en masse???

When I had it at Zoe's we had a lucious red wine reduction with a risotto and grilled radicchio...simply fantastic!!!!

How might you go about it???

John....

P.S. I would almost guarantee that a majority of places are substituting skirt, flatiron or even flank...though it would be much harder to pull off subbing a flank...guess it depends how you prepare it....

Yes...lets say Intercity is the biggest....they do supply the Keg afterall!!

JB

Edited November 10, 2004 by dodger (log)

[Foodie in Vancouver]

Neil: You are certainly a man of action. I eagerly await your post telling us when - we certainly know the where.

[nwyles]

I will post an update as to availability. When I heard there was a waiting time for it , I did not commit. I am a person looking for immediate action and " we can order it in " was not good enough. We do not even know the price yet.

A couple of things to the "Dodger"

- Intercity does not supply the Keg anymore. That ended about 6 or 7 years ago

- In case you have been living in a cave with no internet, the egullet egorge was last Friday. Sorry you missed it. I am hoping that someone else picks the gauntlet of the "egullet" dinner. I know that there are lots of other chefs

"lurking / hawking "out there. Perhaps someone with a Chef's Table !

[Daddy-A]

I am hoping that someone else picks the gauntlet of the "egullet" dinner. I know that there are lots of other chefs

"lurking / hawking "out there. Perhaps someone with a Chef's Table !

←

Now you're talking!

A.

[Tete Carre]

I'd like to thank Chef Fowke for doing the mathematical modelling that helps illustrates the conundrum I'm faced with: by sharing my source I'll likely never get my hands on another hanger steak, ever ! This isn't like supporting the organic food movement or even non-medicated meat. There is only one of these suckers on every cow

See, I've been looking for years and it was shear coincidence that one day, almost in jest and certainly without any expectation, I asked Jeremy the butcher "Any chance of a Hanger or Skirt steak today?" At first he said no, (but at least he didn't say "what's that" which many do these days) then he looked thoughtful ( I beamed my best 'Bonhomme Ami' image, hitting him right between the eyes) and he said "wait a minute". Hours later, it seemed, he returned with a kinda skanky looking chuck from the front part of the cow. It was all dried up, looking like it had been hanging in a dry cooler for a month . "I've got one of each, if you don't mind waiting.....". "Mmmmfel" is what I think came out of my mouth. Fortunatly, being over by the butcher block, he couldn't hear or see me at that point. About 15 minutes later he held up two rolled pieces of beef. " These look okay?"

Anyway, suffice it to say, that a love affair (with the hanger steak smartass ) was started that day.

So back to the conundrum. This place only generates one Hanger and one Skirt steak a week. Do I reveal my source am perhaps never get my greedy little hands on one again or do I hope increased demand will lead to a bigger supply and new suppliers?

Okay the capitalist side of me wins (plus I'm tired of geting threatening PM's if I don't tell) but before revealing my source I'd like to thank Chef Metcalf for introducing me to this butcher in the 'Best Butcher' thread. My source is (drum roll please) 3P Exotic meats in Norh Vancouver. I find their beef, lamb, buffalo and chicken to be consistently way above average. Non medicated and dry aged are certainly two of the secrets here.

Okay so I just got back froom 3P and scooped this weeks Hanger and Skirt steaks. Sorry gals and guys but fair is fair - I may never see one again! I'd insert a picture that I took showing both but can't figure out how.

I think any butcher that still brings in sides of beef should be able to cut you one of these steaks. Beefway (on Kingsway) or Columbus meats (on Renfrew) come to mind. So get on the phone and let's see if we can't find new suppliers!

Cheers and Happy Hunting.

[peppyre]

OK Guys!! Very Very good news. I just phoned Windsor Meats, my brilliant local butchershop, and he can special order Hanger for us. He said he could probably get his hands on 4-7, depending on the week. He has one in the cooler right now with my name on it....DON"T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT....IT'S MINE!!!!! hehheehee.

Guess I know what I'm having for dinner.

[chasmartel]

It is great steak! But you only get one portion from each animal; I am amazed that a center like San Fran, with all its restaurants, can support this item, at multiple locations...

Quick Math:

Let's say it is on 20 restaurant menus and they sell 30 portions a night, each...

20x30x7x52=218,400 animals a year.

An average 'on the rail' animal weights is 600lbs

That means that their would be in excess of 131,040,000lbs of other cuts on the market. Meaning each person in San Fran (728,921) would need to consume 180lbs of meat a year or 1/2 a pound a day.

That seems a little high.

Maybe another cut is being substituted?

There is only one hanger steak per cow, but all of the hanger steaks I've ever bought have weighed at least a pound, ofter more. That is more like three portions for me when I'm cooking at home. I'm not a restaurantuer, but I'd guess that no one would serve an entire hanger steak. I think you need to ratchet down your math accordingly.

I know the difference between a skirt steak & a hanger steak, and what I've been buying is not skirt steak. I've also bought flatiron steak from one of the two sellers where I've gotten hangers, and they are clearly different steaks (both very good).

In the newly-renovated San Francisco Ferry Building, there are two meat sellers. I can get hanger steak from either one. A few weeks ago, I bought 6 pounds of Prather Ranch Onglets from Potter Family Farms without ordering in advance. I'm a little puzzled by the difficulty you all seem to have in getting the stuff in Vancouver.

And Chef Fowke, FYI a Hangtown Fry is an omelet or scramble with oysters & bacon. Here is a link that will tell you more than you ever wanted to know: History of Hangtown Fry

[Edited to add missing words.]

Edited November 10, 2004 by chasmartel (log)

[peppyre]

I think the biggest problem with getting a cut of meat like this has more to do with the market. Vancouver is a very health conscious city with many, many, too many vegetarians. There are very few good butchers left in this city because there just isn't the demand for good meat. Even when I go to pick up a Prime Rib or a T-Bone, I have to get them to cut is specially for me and remind them (especially the young guys) to not trim my steak, and to leave the bone attached. If anyone else had phoned my butcher and asked out of the blue for a hanger, they wouldn't be truly getting a hanger. I know my butcher very well, he knew my dad when he still had his shop, and he remembers my grandpa's shop that was just down the street from where Windsor is now. Vancouver is definitely not a city known for it's meat eaters. Especially ones that like fat!! We do need a meat eaters club.

**Oh and "technically" you can't take meat across the border which makes mail order damn near impossible. Unless you have a US home address

Edited November 10, 2004 by peppyre (log)

[nwyles]

Ok , here is the deal on Hanger Steak.

My supplier can bring some in for me. $3.00 per LB

Not bad.

Here is the kicker.

65 pound case. No breaking it. You have to take the whole thing.

That is lots of steak. Well over 100 portion

There would need to be a serious egullet egorge going on for us to move that much steak.

Any thoughts ?

[Coop]

How well would it freeze? Regardless I'm in for 10 portions or so.