[Houston] Aries

[LDLee]

On Saturday night, my wife and I went to Aries to celebrate our 12th anniversary. We went with mixed emotions. 3 years earlier, our dinner there could best be described as marginal. However, we had recently read and heard so many raves and compliments that we thought we should give it another shot. A mistake.

The first clue that we were not going to have a fine dining experience was the table we were initially assigned. A two spot, next to the window overlooking Montrose and the patio seemed like a good choice. However, the table is on top of a floor vent blowing cold air and centered on a curtain that constantly blew onto the table. We asked to move. The manager said they had a vent cover which would solve the problem. It didn't. We asked to move again.

One bright spot, the server assigned to the original table was very friendly, without being too personal. She was prompt with our drink selections and notifying the manager of our concerns. The Roederer champagne was outstanding, dry, bright flavors with tart fruits.

At the new table, we looked over the menu and thought that night's tasting menu sounded interesting except for one item, the tuna over cold spaghetti with olives. My wife doesn’t like tuna and I despise olives. We asked if it was possible to replace the tuna with foie gras, stating we would pay the additional cost. The waiter said he needed to ask the chef. 10 minutes later, the waiter came back to tell us that the chef would not allow substitutes and that we should really try to the tuna. We elected to pass, and asked for a few minutes to consider other options.

While we were reconsidering the menu, the waiter sent over the restaurant's sommelier to assist us with a wine selection. Deb had decided on the foie gras as an appetizer with the poached tenderloin and braised sparerib, while I had selected the three soup tasting and the pekin duck. The sommelier suggested Tokai with the foie gras. Deb told him she did not like sweet wines, and asked for another suggestion. His response was a 3 minute dissertation on why Tokai was the traditional choice with foie gras, and she shouldn't consider anything else. My wife said it did not matter, she did not like sweet wines. The sommelier then suggested a Gerwurstraminer. Deb was tired of dealing with him, so she relented. As for my appetizer, and our two main courses, he suggested a Bordeaux.

On to the appetizers, the foie gras was very good. Well prepared, juicy and firm, matched well with apples. The Gerwurstraminer, too sweet, my wife drank two sips. Each of the three soups – a green tomato with bacon, cheese with mushrooms, and duck boullion – were tasty but very salty.

The main course was a split. The pekin duck was wonderful. Good flavors, juicy meat, crisp skin, a delight. The poached tenderloin and peppered sparerib – a disaster. Only the British would think to boil steak. The tenderloin had good flavor, but the poaching caused the meat to be mushy, with little texture. The peppered sparerib was overcooked, too spicy, basically inedible.

Having had a disappointing experience, we decided to pass on dessert and asked for our bill. While waiting for the tab, I stopped our original waitress to tip her and thank her for her service. She asked how our meal was and we told her we were very disappointed. She asked why and we began to tell her. After a few minutes, she asked if we could tell our complaints to the owner. We agreed.

About five minutes later, Annika Tycer came by to visit. We had a good talk about our several complaints and our few compliments. She did try to claim the waiter was new and should have allowed us to swap the foie gras for the tuna, but we told her he was claimed to have asked Scott and was told no. At the end of our talk, she thanked us and said she wanted to get to the back so write everything down. She also comped our bill 10%. A nice gesture, but I don't intend to ever return. Instead, I will go to Mark's.

There is one more goof. As we were leaving, the front desk said they had given our claim ticket to the valet to retrieve our car. When we walked up to the valet for our car, he was surprised that the restaurant was supposed to have given him the claim check. After waiting a few minutes, he asked us the model of our car and went to pick it up. Maybe we should have picked the Rolls.

To end the night, we went by Central Market, picked up a piece of cake, returned to our house, opened a bottle of Moscato d'Asti, and sat on our patio listening to KIKK's Texas Roadhouse. It was a nice way to end a disappointing evening.

[jscarbor]

I haven't made it by to Aries yet but it made me wonder why Houston is really lacking in the "special" Restaurant list. I have always thought Cafe Annie to be way overrated. Marks certainly has its faults, maybe its better now but I have had a couple great meals at marks and some very dissapointing meals on other occasions. Bank is ok but its really not special. Tony's is special but somethimes the food really misses. Chez Nous underwhelms me. Why don't we have a great restaurant?!

[FoodMan]

Do we really not have a great restaurant? I am sorry to hear that. But let me ask, what is a great restaurant? and compared to what? We do not have anything on par with Trotter or the French Laundry maybe but we do have excellent fine dining restaurants. I've been to both Aries and Mark's and I do prefer Mark's since the less than stellar service at Aries (my review is in here somewhere) overshadowed the excellent food. However, in every instant Mark's was perfect, excellent service paired with a cozy atmosphere and top notch food.

Elie

[jscarbor]

I recently had a chance to dine at a few restaurants on the cheap because my wife was out of town and I could check them out solo. One place I went to was Aries on a Wednesday night last week. I was reserved a little table next to an air duct I had read about here although I didn't feel any effects from it, problem must have been addressed. I was offered a drink upon sitting down and decided on vodka "martini" with a twist. It was a nice cocktail. I decided on the tasting menu even though I thought it was a little pricey. I was brought a nice little amuse bouche of apple tart with fois grasspread thru ought balanced with a red wine vinegar. It was certainly a nice dish and the obvious small portion was foreshadowing the rest of the night.

The first course was an excellent summer dish of frozen yellow tomato gazpacho (granita). Very simple in taste and my guess is you should be able to freeze the gazpacho also. A tasty little cracker accompanied the dish and was used as a fork/spoon while eating. This course was served with a rose wine and me not being a big wine guy (I love it, just don't know about it) I can say it wasn’t a great intro into Rose for me, it was fairly alcoholy. If what was served is what was on my menu the name is Domaine de l'Espiqouette Vin de Pays de la Principaute d'orange, 2004. For what that’s worth.

The next dish was a very nice pureed Cannellini Bean Soup with Potato confit and truffles. This dish was excellent! And even though again it was tiny it was about as much as I wanted to taste because of the richness. The potato was hollowed out and stuffed with a very nice melting cheese. I nice little Voignier from Santa Barbara called Consilience, a lot of sweet pear.

I was not very excited about the next dish of poached chicken but figured f a chef has the balls to put a poached chicken on an $85 meal then it must be good. Well I was right. This was hands down the best chicken dish I have had even if it was only about 2 oz of chicken. The chicken was poached in milk and served atop some "melted" leeks with a mustard foan sauce. The leeks were buttery heaven and the whole dish melted in my mouth. This was served with a chateau de Viviers, 1st Cru, Chablis, nice a crisp. This or the bean soup was my favorite

Next was a duck dish. I am always a little nervous when either a non-Asian or French does duck. Most people do a very good job of screwing up duck IMO. Aries however has it down. This was a nice little (seriously little) piece of duck breast sliced thin yet was still able to keep a crispy skin. A risotto cake accompanied and might have taken a little away from the duck.

Next was a dish that was said to be peaches and cream with Vanilla financier. I call it 1 small slice of roasted peach with vanilla mascarpone ice cream. Seriously, there was only 1 little slice of peach. It was a tasty bit of peach and the ice cream was very good. Then next a very tasty watermelon soup with a mint tapioca was served as a drink. I loved it. I had another glass of wine, which was supposed to be a chenin blanc, but I was served a sweet dessert wine instead because they "ran" out of the chenin blanc, which really surprises me since the menus are made daily?

All in all I thought the food was great. And although I don't mind the small dishes, in fact I love them; I just don't see a great value in spending $85 bucks for 5-6oz of protein (Maybe that's not out of line, I just saw that charivari had a 6 course tasting menu for 75ish!). And the wine for an additional $55 was a little off especially with them running out of one of the selections. Will I go back? Maybe, I'm just not rushing out the door to get there.

Edited July 7, 2005 by jscarbor (log)

[tetsujustin]

I just don't see a great value in spending $85 bucks for 5-6oz of protein (Maybe that's not out of line, I just saw that charivari had a 6 course tasting menu for 75ish!).

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Well, I'm not sure you were served just 5-6 oz (it's hard to eyeball portions in oz) of protein just because it's hard to compose a plate if you only have two ounces of protein on there or so, but yes, tasting menus do usually limit the size of their proteins if not for anything than the fact that the idea of it is to satisfy, not stuff the customer. Usually if the menu is four items or more then around 4 oz of protein on a plate would be pretty common. The small portion sizing also serves to keep your tastebuds from being overworked and it usually looks better on the plate too. I personally haven't been to Aries so I can't really comment on if the portion sizing was really just that small... you may be right, but being a native of Houston, when I ate in other cities I had to get used to the idea of such small portions on tasting menus when I was thinking I was paying 80-100 dollars for the menu. After a little while though, especially if it runs in the 6 or 7 and above courses range, you'll begin to see why. I applaud Chef Tycer and Aries for offering the tasting menu... I don't see it as a concept Houston would embrace too well with all the Pappas', Cheesecake Factory's, Landry's, and steakhouses running amuck. Though if it were me, I'd serve slightly bigger portions than normal in Houston for tasting menus than I would in another major restaurant city just for the fact that us Houstonians love our protein.

[jscarbor]

I don't mind the portion size at all but I bet there wasn't more than 6 oz total between the duck and chicken. And if I'm wrong about the size I appologize to Aries. I completely understand the law of diminishing returns and applaud the effort and relish the oppurtunity to try others as long as there is some excitement in it. that being said, IMO, I think a fish dish should have been added, making a total of 6 dishes for $85. There is no way you couldn't do that and still make a nice profit. The meal was tomato, beans, chicken, duck, 1 little slice of peach with good ice cream, and some tapioca. Cmon, thats not a very interesting menu for $85(even though it was wonderful). Is it?

Edited July 8, 2005 by jscarbor (log)

[FoodMan]

I don't mind the portion size at all but I bet there wasn't more than 6 oz total between the duck and chicken. And if I'm wrong about the size I appologize to Aries. I completely understand the law of diminishing returns and applaud the effort and relish the oppurtunity to try others as long as there is some excitement in it. that being said, IMO, I think a fish dish should have been added, making a total of 6 dishes for $85. There is no way you couldn't do that and still make a nice profit. The meal was tomato, beans, chicken, duck, 1 little slice of peach with good ice cream, and some tapioca. Cmon, thats not a very interesting menu for $85(even though it was wonderful). Is it?

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I have never tried the tasting menu at Aries, mainly becuase on the the three occasions I have been there, it did not interest me as much as regular menu items. Thanks for the detailed and helpful report, it really reflects a balanced and well stated point of view.

FWIW, regular menu items at Aries are outstanding (just like Jscarbor's tasting menu items) and the portions are very reasonable. Between myself and my wife we compose a small tasting menu, usually a couple of apps, entrees and one or two desserts are more than enough.

As for tasting menu portions, they honestly do sound about right. We had the tasting menu at Nana in Dallas and it also was very well done with similar small portions (probably 8-10 oz protein total, however we had more dishes with meat in them).

Elie

[jscarbor]

Doing a little research I came across the website for Lola's in Dallas. I have never eaten at Lola's but it has been talked about in high regard many times. Maybe its not as good as Aries, I don't know, maybe its better? Anyway, Lola's has a little place adjacent to the restaurant called The Tasting Room. At The Tasting Room you can get a 10 course meal for $59 or a 14 course for $79 and pair it with wine for $32(it looks like you only get 4 wine pairings though). The menu looks comparable.

Why so much of a difference in price?

[FoodMan]

Doing a little research I came across the website for Lola's in Dallas. I have never eaten at Lola's but it has been talked about in high regard many times. Maybe its not as good as Aries, I don't know, maybe its better? Anyway, Lola's has a little place adjacent to the restaurant called The Tasting Room. At The Tasting Room you can get a 10 course meal for $59 or a 14 course for $79 and pair it with wine for $32(it looks like you only get 4 wine pairings though). The menu looks comparable.

Why so much of a difference in price?

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I actually tried getting a table at Lola when I was up in Dallas, but they had a party going on in the Tasting Room. Lola has been discussed in another thread and it seems worth the money. But in my experience it is an anomally, 14 courses for $59!! I would guess that maybe they have a biggger main dining room and only a few (I think under 10) tables in the Tasting Room. So the main profit maker is the main dining room where you cannot get the tasting menu (I asked). Again, I have never been there so I am just guessing.

Elie

[jscarbor]

The 14 course is actually $79.

I actually tried getting a table at Lola when I was up in Dallas, but they had a party going on in the Tasting Room. Lola has been discussed in another thread and it seems worth the money. But in my experience it is an anomally, 14 courses for $59!! I would guess that maybe they have a biggger main dining room and only a few (I think under 10) tables in the Tasting Room. So the main profit maker is the main dining room where you cannot get the tasting menu (I asked). Again, I have never been there so I am just guessing.

Elie

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[FoodMan]

Sorry, my mistake. But the price is still below average at a fine dining restaurant.

Elie

[SuperLuckyCat]

I've done the Tasting Room (11 courses) at Lola and it was exceptional both food and service. I think that restaurant is true fine dining, great service, intimate atmosphere. I remember thinking we were getting a lot of food for each course for a tasting menu and got uncomfortably full. It was super imaginative and I ate about 5 things I had never had before (it was over a year ago so I don't remember exactly what). As far as I know, there is nothing like it in Houston but I have enjoyed the Tasting menu at T'Afia.

I don't agree that there isn't anywhere special in Houston. I am a staunch supported of Da Marco and when people from out of town ask where to go I always have no problem recommending Marks. I do think that very unspecial places attract crowds and expense accounts (like almost every steak house, Pesce and Cafe Annie) but to dismiss the whole town is not fair. I travel weekly for my job and have eaten at a ton of great restaurants all over the country. I don't think Houston can compete with San Fran or New Orleans, but certainly with Chicago and Boston. And I also think Trotter is becoming overexposed like Todd English. I love embracing the smaller, independent restaurants. Houston (and Texas) will always suffer from people not recognizing the importance of supporting non-chain, independent, challenging restaurants that aren't positioning themselves for another location in Vegas or Plano or Sugar Land or waiting to be gobbled up by Landry.

[greensNbeans]

I had the pleasure of dining at Aries this past weekend and it was my first and unless I win the lottery the lat time I go. I thought the food and service was good but I do not think that it is worth the price. My party of 7 people had a final bill of $1200, we all had the chef's tasting menu but I found myself board with the food -

amuse bouche -

halibut cake with herb oil

first course - best dish of the night

pan fried sardine with heirloom tomato

second course - good but I can get this anywhere, right?

seared scallop, anglehair pasta (more like fettucini), wild mushrooms

third course - I enjoyed this dish but it lacked any depth or personaility

saddle of rabbit and fried cornbread

fourth course - I couldn't help but to ask myself "is this the really what Im eating"

lamb wellington with root veg

dessert - worst dessert I have ever had to pay for!

dont recall much about it, but it had a very flavorfull banana parfait

fruit dessert - nice finish but lacked any creativity

summer melon salad - misses matched cuts of melon and nothing to write home about

I expected much more from a Food & Wine best new chef -

[jscarbor]

I have to disagree about Houston competing with Chicago in fine dining. Chicago has IMO even if Trotter is overexposed has atleast 10 restaurants as good if not better than anything in houston. Lets say its 10 that are as good or better, maybe thats in line since Chicago is so much bigger than Houston? Maybe all we deserve is 5 or so?

Also, I have to say that yes we do have a couple special places, I just wish we had more. Da Marco is great and Marks can be at times. After that I have a tough time putting places like Cafe Annie, tony's and Aries on the list. Aries is close but a 20% reduction in price would help.

As a side note has anyone heard about De Marco moving to the old Marrekesh site?

I don't agree that there isn't anywhere special in Houston.  I am a staunch supported of Da Marco and when people from out of town ask where to go I always have no problem recommending Marks.    I do think that very unspecial places attract crowds and expense accounts (like almost every steak house, Pesce and Cafe Annie) but to dismiss the whole town is not fair.  I travel weekly for my job and have eaten at a ton of great restaurants all over the country.  I don't think Houston can compete with San Fran or New Orleans, but certainly with Chicago and Boston.  And I also think Trotter is becoming overexposed like Todd English.  I love embracing the smaller, independent restaurants.  Houston (and Texas) will always suffer from people not recognizing the importance of supporting non-chain, independent, challenging restaurants that aren't positioning themselves for another location in Vegas or Plano or Sugar Land or waiting to be gobbled up by Landry.

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[Richard Kilgore]

I had the pleasure of dining at Aries this past weekend and it was my first and unless I win the lottery the lat time I go.  I thought the food and service was good but I do not think that it is worth the price.  My party of 7 people had a final bill of $1200, we all had the chef's tasting menu but I found myself board with the food -

amuse bouche - 

halibut cake with herb oil

first course - best dish of the night 

pan fried sardine with heirloom tomato

second course - good but I can get this anywhere, right? 

seared scallop, anglehair pasta (more like fettucini), wild mushrooms

third course - I enjoyed this dish but it lacked any depth or personaility 

saddle of rabbit and fried cornbread

fourth course - I couldn't help but to ask myself "is this the really what Im eating" 

lamb wellington with root veg

dessert - worst dessert I have ever had to pay for!

dont recall much about it, but it had a very flavorfull banana parfait

fruit dessert - nice finish but lacked any creativity

summer melon salad - misses matched cuts of melon and nothing to write home about

I expected much more from a Food & Wine best new chef - 

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It is appropriate to identify yourself as a competitor when posting such a negative review of another restaurant.

[greensNbeans]

I want to take this time to clear the air with my post about Aries - I believe that Aries is one of top restaurants in Houston and I did not mean to affend anyone who is reviewing the thread. I simply posted my opinion - Im sure that Houston will have numerous opinions about my venture

[Bill Miller]

Does anybody know why they closed?

[Kevin72]

Poof Goes Aries

On a side note, Alison Cook has a blog? Cool!

[BigboyDan]

Yep, the explaination is right here in those middle paragraphs. The same process has happened in Austin as well. We've lost all but a handfull of top-end places for the same economic reasons...

Edited May 19, 2006 by BigboyDan (log)

[jscarbor]

I have to say that although I think the price of a meal at Aries was out of line IMO, the food was exceptional.

[SuperLuckyCat]

Gravitas is pretty good, if you haven't been there. Good wine list and lots by the glass. I've had lunch there (very good salade nicoise) and dinner (great lamb loin, but proceeded by the world's largest bowl of soup, the most irresponsibly/stupidly-sized dish I have ever been served, it was good soup but I don't need a gallon of it).

[FoodMan]

wow! quiet a surprise. The times I've been there it always seemed pretty busy. A little too much so actually.

[FoodMan]

After the closing of Aries and the opening of Pic, Robb Walsh had a phone conversation with Tycer, check it out here

Many reasons were cited for the move, but IMHO it all boils down to money. Seems like Pic is aiming more for the T'afia crowd honestly. It does sound like a coold place to check out.