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Dinner with Paul


RobInAustin

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Finally, a meal with wines that even Florida Jim can appreciate! (just kidding)

Dinner at home with my closest wine curmudgeon friend Paul the lawyer. I cooked, he brought the wines.

1st course: Modern Salad Nicoise. Fresh Ahi tuna poached in olive oil and provencal herbs, lemon and garlic, served with tossed field greens in vinaigrette, with blanched haricots verts, roasted grape tomatos with anchovies, roasted baby potatos.

1988 BEAUNE LES REVERSEES, 1ER CRU, CAMILLE GIROUD Immediately on opening, a waft of fresh matsutaki mushrooms, forest floor, and leather but with a tease of floral notes underneath. Similar flavors on the palate. After about fifteen minutes, it began to blossom, with clean new leather and fresh black cherry notes on the nose and palate, with an elegant elegant elegant balance of "fine tannins" no sharp edges, but body. With the food, it became almost crystalline in structure, as the mushroom faded and the black cherry and wet forest notes took charge. This is not your new world in your face flashy slutty pinot, nossireeBob. This is the epitome of what I call the elegant contradition of Burgundy: "Amazing depth and body in a weightless wine." Sadly, the vineyard changed hands, now belonging to Ann Colgin...so, the available finite supply of Camille Giroud has now decreased by at least one bottle....If you see some, buy it.

2nd Course: Bistecca Fiorentina. I found a premier butcher, who cut me a PRIME Porterhouse Steak a literal 2 INCHES thick. (dont ask the price....) Grilled over a very hot fire, left warm but saingnant inside, sliced then drizzled with lemon juice, olive oil, sea salt and fresh pepper, served with fresh spinach sauteed in olive oil and garlic.

1999 BARTOLO MASCARELLO, BAROLO, 4 VINEYARDS: CANNUBI, SAN LORENZO, RUE, ROCCHE Decanted two hours. Totally inert out of the bottle. 2 hours later, was finally starting to open up with dark leather, wet forest and some red fruit notes and hefty tannins. Evolved quickly in stages; next came an amazing red licorice, star anise and black cherry. With the steak, it turned crystalline pure. White truffle come on, along with the red licorice and cherry. By the end of the course, it was a sheer delight on the nose and palate...Again, the exact same profile as the burgundy: Amazing depth and body in a weightless wine... Mascarello is a MASTER of Barolo, and this wine and vintage are well worth buying and holding...Just sheer pleasure, but again NOT the slutty, flashy in yer face style some are turning to.

3rd Course: assorted cheeses. 1996 DOMAINE LE PEU LE LA MORIETTE, VOUVRAY MOELLEUX WOW, just a blast of apricot, honey, carmel and citrus on the nose and palate, in a delightful wine of light texture and elegant balance. Nothing cloying or sticky about it, the acids were just exactly in harmony with the flavors....Sheer hedonistic delight in the glass. This wine will make a fan of ANYONE who claims they don't like any "sweet" in their wine. Think a sexy beautiful elegant 30 something in a simple Chanel dress.....still young enough to be fun, but mature enough to be complex, elegant, and subtle...

What a nice way to finish off a nice week in Los Angeles....Nate n'Als for brunch now, Back to Austin tonight. Happy Halloween.

Cheers,

Rob

"When I lived in Paris, and champagne was relatively cheap, I always enjoyed a half-bottle in the middle of the morning and another half-bottle at six or so in the evening. It did me a tremendous amount of good." - Gerald Hamilton.
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. . .  left warm but saingnant inside,  . . .

What does that mean?

Ann Colgin owns land in Burgundy? It boggles the mind . . .

99 was such a terrific year for Barolo and Barbaresco; every bottle I've tried from that vintage has been impressive.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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saingant is french for bloody rare.

"When I lived in Paris, and champagne was relatively cheap, I always enjoyed a half-bottle in the middle of the morning and another half-bottle at six or so in the evening. It did me a tremendous amount of good." - Gerald Hamilton.
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Here is the Colgin/Burgundian connection.

Becky Wasserman, importer doyenne of Burgundy, works closely with Connoisseur Wines in Chicago. Connoissuer handles such big guns as Bryant Family, Screaming eagle (maybe) and Colgin. They brought much of Camille's cellar over to the States.

I will not drink Burgundy in this dark hour of the United States however.

Tonight November 3rd 2004 is definitely a night for strong tasteless wine and the pondering of what a moral value actually is.

over it

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Fifi

We had Pont l'Eveque, a blue chevre and a chevre from burgundy wrapped in a birch leaf (who's name escapes me).

Yes, Becky is the importer for Camille's wines. I don't think she has a bad wine in the portfolio, and her's is one of the few companies I will consider to buy a wine from untasted. I have had the wonderful pleasure of dining with her on several occassions

As for today, I prefer to quote Napoleon: "In victory one deserves to drink Champagne, In defeat one NEEDS to drink Champagne."

A good bottle on tonights menu. I need it.

Cheers,

Rob

"When I lived in Paris, and champagne was relatively cheap, I always enjoyed a half-bottle in the middle of the morning and another half-bottle at six or so in the evening. It did me a tremendous amount of good." - Gerald Hamilton.
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