The White Swan Pub and Dining Room

[Andy Lynes]

You may be aware that I am not a fan of “gastropubs” (if you want to read my views on them click here). So why, you might ask yourself, did I volunteer to meet an ex-BT colleague for dinner at The White Swan Pub in Fetter Lane, just off Holborn Circus? One reason is that chef Jason Schrimshaw has previously worked at both Chez Bruce and Bibendum, fine establishments the pair of them and home to some of the most honest and satisfying food in the capital. Another is that brothers Tom and Ed Martin, who also run The Well in Clerkenwell, have done a great job of gutting and restoring the place, installing ship loads of wood and leather, giving it the sort of masculine elegance that is perfect for its City location.

The most important reason however is that, no matter what the reviews might say, this is decidedly not a gastropub. Rather, this is a damn good boozer where you can get some decent grub over the bar and which just happens to have a restaurant on its first floor. Separated by a mezzanine level, neither operation detracts from the other. The busy bar doesn’t infringe on the comfort of the diners, and the restaurant doesn’t take up valuable drinking space in the pub. Each successfully retains its identity and is not forced into an unhappy compromise that for me characterises the term gastropub.

The daily changing menu is short but packed with good things to eat: saffron, mozzarella and pimento risotto; half a dozen oysters with shallot vinegar; smoked eel with mash and bacon; wild rabbit with papperdelle; prune and brandy delice; home made waffles with coconut ice cream and maple syrup. After much thought, I chose grilled marinated quail served with hummus, preserved lemon and spring onion dressing followed by grey mullet with braised fennel and fish cream, while ex-colleague Stuart went for game terrine with onion jam and toasted sourdough and roast rump of lamb with twice baked pudding soufflé.

The food was virtually faultless. The spatchcocked quail had been marinated in a variety of spices including cumin and star anise which formed a crunchy crust on the grilled bird. This was served on a bed of waxy and delicious hummus with the pleasantly astringent chopped lemon and onion dressing scattered around, pointing up the aromatic flavours of the dish.

Grey mullet is a woefully underused fish, with far more texture and flavour than the ubiquitous and often bland sea bass that it resembles. Here, the skin had been nicely seasoned with sea salt and fried until crisp, accompanied by some gently braised fennel and a stock based fish cream sauce. Sides of top notch mash and accurately cooked spinach made this a winning dish. I didn’t get to try the game terrine but this got unreserved thumbs up, as did the lamb, although the black pudding appeared to be more of a loaf than a soufflé.

Once upon a time this sort of food would have been described as Modern British. Now only the likes of Heston Blumenthal and Anthony Flynn can claim to be truly modern, so I suppose this is simply British. Whatever you want to call it, it’s very good. And at 28 pounds for three courses of accomplished cooking (we both finished with an exemplary bread and butter pudding with amaretti ice cream), represents the sort of value pub dining rooms should strive to offer.

From the intelligently compiled list we chose a Coudoulet De Beaucastel, Pierre Perrin 1999 which at 29 pounds was a lot of wine for the money. My Yorkshire based companion was not quite so convinced at the value however, pointing out that a Côtes Du Rhône, Guigal at 24 pounds was available from Majestic for less than 6 quid.

Service from restaurant manager Susi Boesner was both informed and informal, responsive and efficient. The White Swan is a real gem and a handy place to know about if you are in need of a beer and a Lancashire cheese and onion burger in the pub, or a blowout with fine wines in the dining room. The Martin Brothers have just opened The Gun in Docklands which is I hear a stunning room and has a great riverside location. I can’t wait to try it.

Restaurant website.

[magnolia]

Hmm....seems to me that

...a damn good boozer where you can get some decent grub over the bar and which just happens to have a restaurant on its first floor

Restaurant website.

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...is in fact a good definition of a gastropub...

[Andy Lynes]

I think the use of the description "Pub and Dining Room" is very deliberate. Of course its factually true, but also points it out as being something different from the run of the mill gastropubs. Its a subtle, but to me, important difference.

You can get a genuine restaurant experience at The White Swan; the space is right, the linen, crockery, cutlery and stemware are of very good quality and the people are qualified to do the job. That doesn't sound like the gastropubs I've had the misfortune to dine in.

[BertieWooster]

Ah, there was I thinking you meant the White Swan in Pickering, North Yorks., gorgeous food, great rooms, and one of the best St Emilion lists in the country

[CheGuevara]

The daily changing menu is short but packed with good things to eat: saffron, mozzarella and pimento risotto...

wow, that would not strike me as good...considering how bad mozzarella goes with risotto. why do people choose to be inventive with dishes which aren't ingrained in them from an early age?

if you consider what blumenthal is doing to be good and modern, then why can't you compromise with gastropubs? label them what you want, but they are the answer to the lack of good culinary culture in england. both of the above are a sign of changing times in this country - with what concerns food at least - for the positive.

-che

edit: left things as i first intended....

Edited October 1, 2004 by CheGuevara (log)

[Carlovski]

wow,  that would not strike me as good...considering how bad mozzarella goes with risotto. why do people choose to be inventive with dishes which aren't ingrained in them from an early age?

if you consider what blumenthal is doing to be good and modern, then why can't you compromise with gastropubs? label them what you want, but they are the answer to the lack of good culinary culture in england. both of the above are a sign of changing times in this country - with what concerns food at least - for the positive.

-che

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Wasn't just me that thought that about the risotto then.

Sounds like it would be a bit, 'solid'

[CheGuevara]

there are risottos that use cheeses other than parmeggiano or pecorino, however they tend to be with taleggio or gorgonzola which has a distinct flavour and melts differently than mozzarella.

-che