Fuji

[mrbigjas]

Is this the best sushi in town?

Well, it isn't in town.

Is it the best sushi in the area?

Yeah.

Is Matt Ito a total kickass chef, the kind of guy who it's an unmitigated pleasure to sit at his bar for two hours and just let him feed you anything he wants, while talking with him about food, about life in Japan vs. life in the US, about sake, about anything, and in the meantime the conversation just enhances the fact that you're having the best sushi around?

aw yeah.

And finally, is it a pleasure to do these kinda things with our own Katie? Definitely.

Tonight's meal, 11 courses, follows. Katie will comment, I'm sure, but to my experience, the whole thing was about salt manipulation--four to five different kinds of salt were used, along with soy, and the general saltiness of fish combined with the sweetness of other ingredients were a major theme. Take a look.

1. Crab and Asparagus soup. A large lump of crabmeat in a small espresso cup of perfectly smooth asparagus puree, swirled with some kind of herbed oil that we couldn't identify, and that Matt didn't describe to us. superb.

2. A one-bite piece of sushi consisting of a small stack of rice, topped with slices of Japanese white shrimp, which were topped with Iranian osetra caviar, pink Hawaiian sea salt, and touched with truffle oil. This not-so-random combination of ingredients from all over the world was an insane touch of genius.

3. Three slices of walu (a.k.a. oilfish, apparently a deep-sea Hawaiian fish), with pieces of supremed ruby grapefruit, in a sauce of passionfruit juice, and more of the aforementioned pink sea salt. Bits of chives in there too. Walu is a meaty fish that can stand up to the grapefruit (and using ruby didn't hurt either, since it's so much less acidic and strongly flavored), and the sweetness of the passionfruit brought the two together. Yes, I sound like an iron chef reviewer. sorry.

4. Pacific Orchard Oyters. A half dozen of these oysters which a little web research has shown me are from British Columbia. Matt said they were from a similar area to where they get Kumamotos, or something to that effect. People, please believe that I am not exaggerating--in fact, am probably understating--when I say that these were simply the most stunningly delicious oysters I've ever had. they were fat, creamy; they had none of the random slimy layers that other oysters do; they were briny, nonmetallic; and he served them with a miso mignonette that complemented them perfectly.

(at this point we switched from sparkling riesling to sake, and they brought us a small dish of salt to take pinches of after drinking the sake, to emphasize and finish the sweetness of the drink. Katie will elaborate)

5. Yellowfin tuna nigiri. Great fish.

6. Sea bream nigiri, with sour plum (ume) paste. Again, just great fish.

7. Yellowtail nigiri. see 5 and 6.

8. Salmon and Amberjack nigiri. See above. I missed parr of the conversation at this point but I could have sworn Matt said that he cured the salmon and froze it overnight in order to give it a flavor that I've never had in salmon sushi before. Great stuff.

I don't want to deemphasize these four courses just because they're standard sushi restaurant fare. They were amazingly good pieces of fish, expertly put together; didn't even need the fresh ground wasabi that was offered (although we had plenty of it anyway. the difference between that and the usual paste you get is always remarkable).

9. Scallop nigiri two ways: the first was topped with spiced codfish roe, and the second was with smoked salt. Yes, smoked salt. This was an example of how the delicate flavors of sushi can be radically altered by their toppings--the same fish, the same rice, were strikingly different, while only the topping changed. The weird thing was I had seen smoked salt just yesterday for the first time somewhere, and here I was having it. It tastes like a campfire.... it's.... kind of indescribable.

10. Finishing up the savory courses with a cooked dish: a half a roast squab, scented with curry and served alongside a seared slice of foie gras, a spoonful of mashed potato, a slice of cucumber, and a stalk of yu choy, I think (some kind of asian green, anyway--could have been chinese broccoli or something). All sitting in a truffle butter sauce. Amazingly good after all that sushi.

11. Dessert was a very tasty key lime pie topped with whipped cream... and a little salmon roe. At this point we were pretty sure Matt was messing with us, since the waitress said, "whoa, you actuall like that?" And yet in some weird way it worked. And if he was messing with us, I'll put up with it for the courses that came before it.

Conclusion: for some reason, up in the land of no-tell motels on 130 in Cinnaminson, a master at his craft has been running a sushi restaurant for 25 years (seriously: his 25-year celebration is in October sometime). By going in there and allowing him to serve you whatever he's in the mood for, you'll get a meal that will kick your ass from beginning to end. And the price? Let's just say I'm not entirely sure how he's charging that little for the meal we had--the oysters alone could easily run a third of the price of the entire meal at another place.

Good god everything was excellent. Thanks to Katie for organizing it.

That is all.

[KatieLoeb]

My thanks to James for writing up this detailed report and doing his research. There were so many small details that escaped us initially because we'd never heard of those types of fish or shellfish. And he and the lovely Mrs. were wonderful company for this Japanese culinary adventure.

Everything that's already been said is true. The meal was incredible and built to a phenomenal crescendo with the squab and foie gras at the end. The delicacy of the flavors was definitely the theme of the meal. And the various salts were incredible. I have to find some of that Hawaiian sea salt, because it had a wonderfully crunchy texture as well as a delicious flavor. And that smoked salt was what you would imagine the end of a burnt stick tasting like, but in a good way, if that makes any sense at all.

My favorite courses of the evening were the one-bite white shrimp and caviar mold and those oysters!!! Oh. My. God. The very best oysters in the whole oyster world. Plump, creamy beyond description and tasted like that first small whiff of a salt air breeze when you get close to the beach. Awe inspiring. If all oysters tasted like that everyone would love shellfish. And the miso mignonette had a depth of flavor that made regular vinegary mignonette taste like window wash. I think I finally "get" umami. The contrast with the dual preprations of scallop nigiri was pretty eye opening also.

At the end I think Matt was in the kitchen collecting his bet from the waitressess saying "See! I told you I could get them to eat the pie with the salmon roe!" But oddly, it worked. I can't explain how.

To drink I'd purchased a bottle of 1999 Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Kloster Furstental Riesling Brut Sekt. Delicious stuff this. Minerally but with a background sweetness and a long finish. One of my very favorite things with sushi. Then we had Madoka (Genshu Honjyozo) sake. This was served chilled out of cedar boxes that ever so subtly effected the taste. It had an aroma that reminded me of when you open a rice steamer. Medium dry but full flavored and refreshing. We also had a little pile of salt to taste after sips of sake that "sweetened" it up just a bit. Kind of like people that put salt on their melon I guess. It was all very good and complimented the meal very well.

All in all a mind blowing experience with great company, great conversation and an opportunity to chat with the most humble of Master Chefs. Chef Matt Ito rocks. I'll put him up against any Iron Chef in anything but a sumo cage match!

Arigato gozaimasu, Chef!

[SG-]

OK, after reading this I will put aside my bad experiences ordering ala carte and give the omakase a go.

Katie,

You might be able to find Hawaiian sea salt from Ming Tsai line of products at Target. Recollect seeing them in bottles, but not sure if they still carry his line though. Better yet if you know of someone heading over to Hawaii, much cheaper there.

[CoolPapaBell]

Okay now your next trip is to Sagami. The service is horrific--here's your hat, what's your hurry. But the food is good.

Like Fuji, it's pretty much a dump, but TRUE foodies who know some of the best places are away from where Center City Sam begs for a few bucks must visit as well.

I found Misado to not be too bad either though the other two are better. I'm sorry to say Kyoto at Merchant's Walk has closed though.

[KatieLoeb]

I don't think it's fair to characterize Fuji as a "dump". The no-tell motel behind it definitely though. Certainly it's a very tiny restaurant with only 6 seats at the sushi bar, but a DUMP? Hardly. It's clean, the service is adequate (occasionally slow, at least in the dining room) and the decor is simple. Bathrooms are spotlessly clean. Hardly a dump.

My experiences at Sagami (I've been several times already) have been pretty much as you described. I always had the feeling that were it not that I were putting money in the register, my presence there was a complete nuisance. I've always felt rushed and never felt welcome to enjoy a leisurely meal. The fish was very good, but pales next to Fuji's IMO.

Never got the chance to try Kyoto. But if it closed, I'm a bit skeptical about how good it must have been. Certainly there's no shortage of Japanese cuisine loving suburbanites in that general vicinity. Perhaps it was a bad location for them (although Amea and Bobby Shea's Crabcake joint seems to be doing very well in the same shopping center) or perhaps there were other financial issues that we aren't aware of. Are they re-opening elsewhere, or are they completely kaput?

[bobby29]

Nice to see Matt getting his props. I have been visiting Fuji for almost 20 years now, and still think it's one of the best in the area.

[CoolPapaBell]

I actually use the term “dump” endearingly. Many of my favorite places are. I don’t mean dirty or nasty, just a hole in the wall that thrives sans creature comforts.

A new sushi place has opened where Kyoto was. I don’t know of the details as to why they closed. But yes it is an outstanding shopping center for foodies. Meil Pastry from Robert Bennett is in there and there is an upscale Italian places I think called Misto that seemed to at least be doing a bang up business, though I haven’t heard too many reviews.

[KatieLoeb]

I actually use the term “dump” endearingly. Many of my favorite places are. I don’t mean dirty or nasty, just a hole in the wall that thrives sans creature comforts.

A new sushi place has opened where Kyoto was. I don’t know of the details as to why they closed. But yes it is an outstanding shopping center for foodies. Meil Pastry from Robert Bennett is in there and there is an upscale Italian places I think called Misto that seemed to at least be doing a bang up business, though I haven’t heard too many reviews.

A hole-in-the-wall that thrives in spite of itself or it's location is definitely different than a dump by my definition. I get what you meant now and yes it is using that definition.

[john b]

How often do you hear, "Oh, you like sushi, you MUST try ___. It's the best."? Well, I'll try it and every time I think the same thing, "It's not Fuji." Fuji has set the bar pretty high. Now I need my monthly fix.

[sunra]

How often do you hear, "Oh, you like sushi, you MUST try ___. It's the best."? Well, I'll try it and every time I think the same thing, "It's not Fuji." Fuji has set the bar pretty high.

Amen to that! Matt Ito is the true iron chef.

[KatieLoeb]

How often do you hear, "Oh, you like sushi, you MUST try ___.  It's the best."?  Well, I'll try it and every time I think the same thing, "It's not Fuji."  Fuji has set the bar pretty high.

Amen to that! Matt Ito is the true iron chef.

Sunra:

Hello and Welcome! An auspicious first post that I am obviously completely in agreement with.

[CoolPapaBell]

Okay in honor of the aforesaid snobby guy on another board, I'd like to hear honest comparisons of the non-sushi items to Morimito. Katie I know you weighed in pretty much, but I think this snobby guy is afraid of the 'burbs.

Sushi and non-sushi, is Katy correct that Fuji is better than the Philly boy?

PS: Next trip I will do Morimito. I've been to the big three in SJ: Fuji, Mikado and Sagami, but not yet Morimito.

[john b]

Take out from Fuji last night (it's dangerously close to my house): Negimaki Beef Teriyaki appetizer--beef stuffed with scallions and ginger in teriyaki sauce--yum. Sushi and sashimi deluxe--one tuna roll, nine pieces of sashimi, eight pieces of nigiri sushi. Two a la carte pieces of toro nigiri sushi--I could eat toro until the mecury level in my blood killed me.

When I went in to pick up the food it wasn't ready. They invited me to sit at a table and wait, and poured me a cup of tea. I was able to watch the "action" at the sushi bar and in the dining area. It's nice to be in a place where the waitstaff is so friendly with all of the customers. They really seem to enjoy their jobs.

Our wine was a 2003 Ratzenberger Rivaner from Moore Bros.

[herbacidal]

I think the other thing about Fuji is that you have to let them know that you really like and appreciate good food.

IIRC, people in the past have just ordered generally and been disappointed.

You have to let Matt know that you're real connisseurs of good food, whether by calling ahead, or whatever.

[SG-]

mrbigjas, how much did this dinner run per person?

[mrbigjas]

mrbigjas, how much did this dinner run per person?

←

hm.... i'm thinking $55 or so, plus tip? i think it depends on what he serves you that night. the price sure seemed fair, even low, when we got the bill at the end of the meal, though.

[SG-]

Thinking of heading over and I saw on their website that it's $65 / $75 and up. Seems like your dinner was a pretty good deal .

[mrbigjas]

Thinking of heading over and I saw on their website that it's $65 / $75 and up. Seems like your dinner was a pretty good deal .

←

mighta been $65. i'm not sure. it was right in that range, though. we did finish off a bottle of wine and a bottle of sake while we were there, and then had drinks afterward...

[chowfun]

We had a delicious omekasi dinner last night in honor of my husband's birthday. We brought the kids and they had it too, except for the raw oysters! We started with sharks fin soup, filled with shitaki, enoki and other mushrooms and lump crab meat, followed by a cold dish of tofu skins in a sweet sauce, then awesome oysters on the half shell (komimoto oysters per the server). Then on to braised shad roe which was very good and a surprise at this time of year. We then had some sushi and sashimi, fantastic as always, followed by quail with some veggies and mashed potatoes. The service was very good in the dining room. The speed at which the food was made was a little slow, but we didnt mind. Itosan, you are a god!

I wanted to mention something else on this thread. A while ago Matt told us that he was going to have to take the Jewpanese roll (smoked salmon and cream cheese) off the menu, because he got letters of complaint that this was a slur to Jews. As a MOT as y'all say on this board, I think some people need to find their sense of humor.

[SG-]

Ok, I think sadly this will be my third and final visit to Fuji. For some reason he must not like me... Here's what we had for the kaiseki dinner.

1) Tuna tartare topped with caviar, no comparison to the toro tartare at Morimoto, then again they charge I think $20 for it alone.

2) walu ceviche topped with smoked salt, salad and orange segments

3) kumamoto oysters with ponzu sauce, by the time it got to us, all the liquor had spilled out the shell, tasted ok otherwise.

4) scallop topped with foie gras, mango and a balsamic vinegar reduction

5) sashimi of tuna, walu, salmon and flounder, small cylinder of rice that came with it was beginning to turn crusty from sitting out too long (did not come with fresh wasabi)

6) fried soft shell crab with some sort of grain batter. I absolutely did not enjoy this dish.

7) Pan seared 'Japanese' beef with fiddlehead ferns.

8) red bean & ginger ice cream (with some large ice chips) and some not so great cheesecake.

First 5 dishes were OK nothing spectacular, last 3 were downright dissapointing.

Total cost $75 / person.

Edited June 15, 2005 by SG- (log)

[mrbigjas]

bummer

[robertruelan]

SG- Sorry to hear your latest experience. I've been trying to get my wife to try the omekasi dinner at Fuji, but not sure now. If I do go, I will post my experience.

We have been here before and found it pretty good, but it was just their 'regular' dinners. Off night maybe, but it sounds like you've had similar bad experiences.

Edited June 15, 2005 by robertruelan (log)

[Lazrowp]

I went to Fuji months ago for a special dinner. My wife was upset that they didn't have liquor, but we both enjoyed the food. (we had just moved down from NYC so we are not yet used to the BYO culture).

We started with agedashi tofu, and some tamago and hamachi....all were excellent. The tamago was nice and fluffy and not too sweet. It is nice to see a restaurant that does not load up the sushi with tons of rice. The proportion of rice to fish was such that we both regretted not ordering more sushi. Instead as a main course we had the chirashi with was great. For the two of us our meal was $60 w/out a tip.

Before we went I had high expectations which were met. The decor was nothing special, and the servers were dressed up in kimonos which didn't add anything to the flavor of our experience. The staff was very genuine. My only disappointment was that they did not have any squid....my favorite roll to order is "ika-shiso" (squid roll with shiso leaf).

I would recommend Fuji to anyone!

Paul

[dagordon]

Just thought I'd add to the praise. In the past couple of months we've been to Fuji twice and have had omakase sushi at the sushi bar. The meals were two of the best sushi meals we've ever had. Having spent a fair amount of time in New York City, our expectations are pretty high for sushi: but the quality of Fuji's fish easily rivals that of the best in NYC (Sushi Yasuda, in my opinion), and the creativity of Chef Matt's selections I think pushes it over the top when compared to the omakase that I've had at Yasuda and other places.

I usually don't like sushi that's blow-torched or covered in garnish or sauce of any kind: I like to keep it about the fish. But when Matt did venture into this territory, the results were uniformly excellent. Whatever he did to the fish was never overpowering, and instead brought out the character of the fish and resulted in some pretty amazing combinations. Scallops with the teeniest drop of truffle oil and caviar. Sea bream with shiso and some kind of salty green deliciousness. Fuji's exquisitely subtle uni on top of the tastiest eel I've ever had, resulting in perfection.

Again, I'm usually rather conservative with my sushi praise. But this guy is, frankly, a brilliant chef. Perhaps the way that the few non-sushi items he brought us integrated into the meal was the most impressive part of it. Slices of tuna and scallop, with the tuna slightly seared around the edges, each topped with a pearl of what I think was an anchovy paste, next to a small salad dressed in a fresh citrus (and maybe raspberry?) sauce opened. Then the creamiest and smoothest Kumamoto oysters I've ever had.

At some point during the sushi he brought out a small, whole fish the had been made into sushi virtually whole -- he replaced the insides with sushi rice. Parts of the fish had been fried. Nowhere else would I have eaten a fish head so large.

Cinnamon "soup" with pine nuts was a palate cleanser/pre-dessert. Outstanding, and so unusual. Dessert was a surprisingly light chocolate creme brulee.

I don't understand how he gets fish this good. I want to live at this place.

[cdh]

A number of us partook of a fabulous omakase meal at Fuji last night, and this time some of us brought cameras, so we can show as well as tell about Matt Ito's fabulous food.

Things got started with a tuna tartare topped with a thin layer of creme fraiche and a layer of caviar. It was in a think brothy sauce that had sake and sweet soy flavors.

Then came some delicious Kumamoto oysters.

Followed by a piece of tuna that had been seared around its diameter, topped with a piece of seared foie gras, with a mango and wasabi tobiko garnish.

The next course was a shark fin soup with crab and a tofu dumpling with a ginkgo nut amongst other stuff inside it. The soup was thick and gelatinous, and, while delicious, was a moral hazard and I hope it to be the first and last time I eat shark fin soup. Too much ecological damage and waste in gathering shark fins for my taste.

From the strongly flavored soup we moved on to delicate tempura squash blossoms, which were light, crispy and ethereal.

And with our palates cleansed and prepared for more delicate flavors, we were presented with a beautiful set of sashimi. Tuna, walu, flounder, hamachi, and salmon. All fresh and delicious.

The more savory courses began to arrive next, beginning with a half squab seasoned with a curry powder and pan roasted to a medium rare inside. There was a bit underneath the medium rare meat that had a wonderful soft texture smooth texture and was a bit more cooked through.

Next came a piece of black cod, with a balsamic reduction sauce. The cod didn't appeal too much to me, being a bit too strongly flavored to play nicely with the sauce, and a bit too meaty in its texture.

And the final course consisted of a couple of slices of delicious grilled lamb loin.

Overall, a spectacular meal all through. Well thought out progression of flavors and textures and richnesses.

Edited December 24, 2005 by cdh (log)