L'Enclume

[sped98]

Here`s the new Winter menu for those wishing to add a bit of excitement to their christmas.

The Gourmand

Return of the slate, flavours on a whim,

take it as you want

Pea and cassia cream, almond froth

jabugo on toast

Glazed pork cheeks as seen previously

but in a new way

Foie gras, cubism to realism, lemon cake

star anise and verjus reduction

Razor roll reversal, multi coloured

organic egg

Sqaub breast less than 60 . blackcurrant

and Darjeeling

Beetroot juice, oyster virtually extra, white balsamic

and reblochon

Diver-caught sea scallop, buckwheat and bacon

flavour, hot violet mayonnaise

Fried beer, ploughmans in pudding form

Scottish langoustines cooked in clay,

Spiney artichokes, spicy butter

Butternut coming ravioli or not

Monkfish in picada crumb, prunes and basmati,

citronelle emulsion

Lightly smoked sea bass, smith apples

walnut and watercress

Greek meatballs Mr Nick would be proud of,

textureless tzatziki maybe he wouldn’t

Beef fillet, salt crust technique, passion cannelloni,

Hazelnut pavlova, fennel coulis

Our chariot of cheese

Expearamenthol Frappe

Poached rhubarb, muscavado, ginger

and sweet bracken

Unbranded cola meets cherries, the cubist

fights back

Upside down coconut soufflé,

meli-melo

[Duncan]

We went only last month, and now you're telling me we've got to go back again for a completely different menu?

Seriously though, its great to see that somewhere with a menu as complex as this really can ring the changes instead of keeping to pretty much the same menu with minor variations for years on end.

[Sturge]

I was able to attend one of the protoype sessions at the cookery school earlier this year. It's based in a lovely building, newly kitted out.

Simon Rogan took us on a couple of interesting field trips including a visit to Holbarrow Farm, which grows the majority of the veg and rare/unusual herbs for the kitchen.

I wouldn't say he's a born teacher and the kitchen space is a bit awkward, but it's fascinating to see all the bits of kit in use. Some of the recipes you try are more accessible than others - I'm going to have a go at recreating the shallot puree (there's a lot of sieving involved for nearly every dish).

sadly I didn't have time for dinner but other attendees were pretty gushing. Not the slickest school, but if you're prepared to help him 'warm up' then it's worth the cash.

[Bapi]

Has anyone been recently? We are lunching here this coming weekend. Any recommendations as an L'Enclume virgin?

I understand that they will be offering the a la carte, table d' hote and the Introduction menu.

I am hoping that Cubism in foie gras, two cold, one hot,

cantaloupe, fragrant myrrh and almond cake, will be available on at least one of the above menus.

Roll on the weekend.

Edited March 7, 2006 by Bapi (log)

[PS]

We were there last month and had a very good meal again - it didn't seem as memorable as our first visit, but then your first time is also that little bit special, eh? There wasn't a single dish on the Intermediate menu that we'd had the year before and while it was a shame to see some great dishes go, the menu's evolution was both interesting and impressive, and the food was just as good (I don't know how chef Rogan has time for cooking all that food and developing the menu). I'd dig out the menu we had, but based on the pace of development of the kitchen I wouldn't be surprised if it's evolved again.

A sample, and reasonably up to date, menu is available on the L'Enclume website.

Anyway, I think I'd have to go for the Introduction menu if I were visiting at lunch time for the first time, although I haven't tried the conventional 3 course menu. I don't think you'll get the Cubism in foie gras, two cold, one hot as Mr Rogan had moved on to an equally tasty and entertaining Foie gras cubism to realism with, I think, lemon cake.

You may have to let them know in advance if you want the Introductory menu though.

Mind you, when we there they were also doing what seemed an excellent value table d'hote 3 courser for (again, don't quote me on this) I think £20.

I'm definitely going to get back there again this year, maybe to try the summer menu.

Hope you enjoy it as much as we did.

Cheers,

Philip

[Bapi]

Phillip,

Many thanks for your response. The chap I spoke to when booking did state that the Introductory menu would be available at lunch. I have to say I am very tempted to try it at this point. My only concern is that we are staying at Ullswater, for our Anniversary, the night before and I know from experience that the breakfasts they serve there are positively gargantuan. So I may well struggle to get through the entire Introductory menu.

But then again- sod it- you only live once

May I ask -what are the best options for wine pairings if we do opt for Introductory menu? The wine section of the website doesn't seem to be operational, so I couldn't ascertain whether they have glasses to partner the various courses.

Cheers again.

B

[PS]

Ah, Ullswater... sounds like a nice trip over the Kirkstone Pass beckons - I hope there's enough snow for it to be picturesque, but not enough to make it slippery.

We've found the portion size to be well-judged, so if you're of reasonable appetite it shouldn't be a struggle, but I'd certainly go relatively easy on the full english on the morning ahead of it.

The wine choice is tricky and I'll throw in the caveat that my wine knowledge is amateurish to say the least. They don't have a glass per course pairing, but unless you can really knock the stuff back there's no way you can manage a wine to each course as they keep coming at you fairly quickly (otherwise you'd be there all day). Also, the flavours/themes of the dishes tend to move around a bit as well, so it would be difficult to tie two or three consecutive dishes together wine-wise.

What we've done on our visits is take a bottle of something sparkling (a cremant de Loire first time, a Pol Roger second time) to serve as an aperitif and to see us through the initial courses, then a glass of red to accompany the main course, the cheese and desserts. It depends on your drink-rate, but that worked for us on the Intermediate menu (I think my other half managed a dessert wine as well).

The restaurant staff must get asked that question everyday though, so I'd bow to their superior knowledge anyday.

Have fun!

P

[Bapi]

Cheers again.

You homed in on my concern exactly. I wasn't sure that a single glass would marry well, with three or four consecutive dishes. That and the fact that it's a lunch, so we wont be going too mad consumption wise. Plus I am driving back home otherwise the journey home would be a four hour Driving Miss Daisy stylee pootle, if the missus was in charge. I think we will just opt for a decent half bottle.

It does provide one with a quandry though, doesn't it? Ordering wine for a Degustation menu - when you are not too sure exactly what is going to be served up. Thankfully, such odious tasks as choosing the most complimentary wine at places like Hibiscus are best left up to people like Claire and now Simon, who know what's coming out of the kitchen.

Thanks for your help. Will write it up next week.

Edited March 7, 2006 by Bapi (log)

[Champagne Sadie]

Champagne tends to suit food over a billion courses.

Worked for me at El Bulli anyway.

[JudyB]

The wine section of the website doesn't seem to be operational, so I couldn't ascertain whether they have glasses to partner the various courses.

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The wine section is working (for me) now, but it really just talks in general terms.

When we were there in November(?) the sommelier (or head waiter - I'm not sure what his formal title is) was very good. We discussed what we wanted with him and ended up with a bottle of white plus (I think) a half-bottle of red to go with the menu gourmand (after a glass of fizz first).

I think that the waiter/sommelier was also talking about trying to put together wine pairings during this year and from the discussion that we had this is clearly something that they have thought about.

Have a good time, based on our one visit so far you should be in for treat!

[fisherman]

i remember simon saying that if you didn't know what wine to go for, then champagne would suit pretty much anything. not being a big fizz fan, i insisted we got a bottle of white (kiwi sauv blanc recommended by the waitress, and a perfect match for the food) and a bottle of red, can't remember what, but chosen by me, thinking i knew best and didn't really go with anything.

if you leave it in their hands, you'll get the right wine, and the price os on the right side too

[Punjuna]

He is introducing a new menu around the middle of April and from the descriptions I have heard it is going to be a belter!

[Bapi]

Thanks all.

Off to the lakes now. Eating at Sharrow Bay tonight- where the food is wonderfully traditional and a world away from the cuisine at L'Enclume. It will be interesting to have to consecutive meals that are from different ends of the culinary spectrum. And I suppose as it's our anniversary - I had now better go and find my romantic head.

Thanks again.

B

[thom]

I had now better go and find my romantic head.

←

That's Bapi, the 'Worzel Gummidge' of eGullet.

Hope you enjoy it. The food I mean, not the romance; we don't need to know about that.

Cheers

Thom

[Bapi]

Gulp- I forgot to get a bloody card for her, let alone attach my Romantic head.

On the whole I have to concur with what has been written before. L’Enclume is a remarkably original restaurant and Simon Rogan a real talent. We arrived a little early after a visit to Sharrow Bay the night before - and although I had resisted the temptation of their full English Breakfast in favour of some superb Cumberland Ham and Poached Eggs, neither the bintage nor I thought we could manage the Introduction menu that was on offer. Partially due to the time consideration of needing to get back home in good time; which on reflection was a bit of a shame.

We opted for two glasses of Champagne to start whilst sat in the small conservatory and were offered canapés of a black olive tuile, a spiced tomato extract, a delicious marinated olive and a parmesan biscuit. Very pleasant. Having listened to what had been recommended- and upon deciding on the a la carte menu; we decided just to have a glass of wine to pair with each course. Or rather I did. The onset of a cold meant the she took pity on me and decided to drive back. Now while we were chatting to one of amiable hosts, Rosie and I had the strangest feeling we had met him before. I enquired as to whether our French host had worked in England before and it transpired, as we thought, that it was indeed the genial Frank Deletang, formerly of Michel Roux’s- White Hart in Nayland -Suffolk. A very pleasant surprise to meet him again alongside the rest of their well drilled team.

Our first amuse was - Parsnip and Tonka bean cream, grains of paradise and a malt extract biscuit. The sweet parsnip was given an additional hint of sweetness by the Tonka bean, which sat at the top of the “cream”- read silky smooth veloute. The grains of paradise is apparently a fiery Jamaican pepper which off-set the sweet parsnip perfectly. An additional texture and flavour was provided by the malty biscuit. A nice start.

Next up was another amuse -Glazed Pork cheeks. This was served on a polenta puree, around which was pooled a rich jus. On top of the cheek sat a slice of pink grapefruit and some borage leaves, which gave an astringent kick to counteract the rich flavour of the cheek. Excellent.

We argued, fought, bickered, hissed and sneered at each other- just as one is supposed to do on an anniversary jolly away, and then decided that we would both go for the Foie Gras Cubsism to realism, Lemon cake, Star Anise and Verjus reduction. Quite superb- Rosie noted that the Foie gras melted on the palate at the same rate as the lemon cake. Flavoursome and perfectly balanced and my favourite dish. With this, I was again recommended glass of Jurançon to complement the foie - which incidentally, happened the night before at Sharrow Bay. Infinitely preferable to Sauternes , which is so often mooted as a partner to Foie Gras.

Rosie opted Monkfish with a picada crumb, prunes and basmati, citronelle emulsion. Four slices of monkfish encased, in the picada crumb, which were interspersed with two er, moist balls of rice and sweet prune, a roasted red pepper and a round of pasta inside which sat a shellfish mousse. She enjoyed elements of this dish, but thought that the flavours fought against each other and that the mousse itself was a little too gelatinous. A softer texture to this would have better complemented the density of the monkfish .

I opted for 24 hours shoulder of lamb, feta cheese and flageolet beans, with a cardamom milk. Interesting, but it didn’t grab me by the gonads and swing me around the room as I was hoping it would. The shoulder - whilst packed to the rafters with flavour , was not as meltingly tender as I had expected it to be. I also found the cardamom milk (which was strangely orange in colour), far too overpowering for the rest of the lamb. I am not sure where Mr Rogan’s inspiration for this dish lies. But what I found interesting, if a tad confusing ,was that the flavours juxtaposed influences of how lamb is cooked in different countries. For example, the addition of the flageolet beans along side the lamb reminded me of France. The deep fried Feta encased in batter along with lamb obviously reminded me of Greece; and the lamb with the cardamom reminded me of my Mother’s curries, redolent with the same aromatic spice.

For dessert , I went for a chocolate delice with a lip-smacking mint and lime jelly. A wonderful Valpolicella was an unusual, but perfect foil for this dish. The Mare went for Poached rhubarb, muscavado ,ginger and sweet brachen. This was sat on a five spice biscuit , which was the only element she didn’t like.

Sadly there was no time for tea or coffee as we had to get back to relive Granny from her satanic child baby sitting duties. But both of us agreed that this is a place that requires further consideration later this year and the Menu Gourmand is beckoning large. Granted, neither of us was entirely blown away by our main courses on this occasion, but we both saw a decided talent on show to certainly warrant a second visit.

Re your wine recommendations. Apologies if I haven’t managed to recollect them terribly well. I pride myself on the fact that I am attempting to turn into an ageing, irascible, over-opinionated git. This obviously hasn’t filtered through to my Best man and his missus. As when we were presented with the bill, we were given a note saying that they had taken care of the wine bill as an anniversary treat. Note to self- must be more polite about his frumpy wife in the future .

Edited March 14, 2006 by Bapi (log)

[Andy Lynes]

I visited Windermere for the first time last week (stunning scenery) and didn't make it to L'Enclume this time. However, I plan to be back there as soon as I can manage it and "The L'Enc" (as I believe the locals don't call it) will definately be on my hit list. But I have to say that I was more than satisfied with my scone, jam and pot of tea at Lakeland Limited's 1st Floor Cafe. That's a great set up and well worth a visit.

[Punjuna]

I have eaten that lamb dish and I do not think it is one of his finest dishes and I have told him so but Simon being Simon disagrees, stubborn so and so.

The problem is that the design and content of each dish so blatantly revolves around the taste and texture menus that their concept is lost to some when eating a la carte. For this reason I am told the a la carte menu will go soon.

[Andy Lynes]

As when we were presented with the bill, we were given a  note saying that they had taken care of the wine bill as an anniversary treat.

←

What a lovely gesture, I'm welling up!

[Bapi]

As when we were presented with the bill, we were given a  note saying that they had taken care of the wine bill as an anniversary treat.

←

What a lovely gesture, I'm welling up!

←

It was rather nice actually. But rather oddly, some other friends bought us our aperitifs at Sharrow Bay the night before too. Must do better at being a curmudgeon.

I would agree with Punjuna's assertion too. I think the only way to understand and indeed enjoy Rogan's vision is to opt for one of the tasting menus. I would hazzard a guess that those like Rosie and myself eating from the a la carte are in a minority.

[Duncan]

The April issue of WFI magazine has a good bit about l'Enclume in its 'Critic v Owner' column. Richard Johnson and Simon Rogan sharing the 20 course menu.

There's a very interesting comment from Simon Rogan, that he hasn't actually eaten his complete menu in the restaurant before:

I am quite proud of this menu. It reads beautifully, it flows from course to course, it has rhythm and there are puns in abundance. It's personal. But will it taste as good as it sounds? The most revealing fact is that dishes that I have tasted dozens of times within the realms of my own kitchen have different qualities in the sanctuary of the dining room. For instance, the acidity of a grapefruit segment added to braised pork cheek was a bit overwhelming, instead of cutting through the meat's richness.

You can read the complete article on the Waitrose website (but you don't as many pretty pictures in the online version).

[Duncan]

I see the menus at l'enclume seem to have been restructured. Instead of things like introductory/intermediate/gourmand the options according to the website are now:

* set lunch

* set dinner

* the tour

* underground

* la carte

'the tour' seems to be a mere 10 courses, and 'underground' has neither description nor price on the website (order in advance, price on application). Does anyone know anything more about the 'underground' option?

[Andy Lynes]

Does anyone know anything more about the 'underground' option?

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I spoke to Simon recently and he said that the underground is basically the old gourmand/degustation menu but that he's gone "underground" with it as he's trying to change the locals impression that it costs 110 quid a head to dine at L'enclume. He'd rather they focus on the fact that you can lunch there from 25 quid.

[Duncan]

Does anyone know anything more about the 'underground' option?

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I spoke to Simon recently and he said that the underground is basically the old gourmand/degustation menu but that he's gone "underground" with it as he's trying to change the locals impression that it costs 110 quid a head to dine at L'enclume. He'd rather they focus on the fact that you can lunch there from 25 quid.

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Thanks. That is presumably why the emphasis now looks to be on the set lunch and set dinner menus. I emailed them and got this reply:

the Underground Menu is the new Gourmand menu but the difference is the customer does not know what they are getting, you eat 'blind' kind of a menu Surprise, you also don't know how large it is. The seating stipulation is to be sat at 7pm !!

[tony h]

I had dinner there in May & they had just changed over to the more streamlined menu. I think the other was taking its toll on the kitchen.

I did take notes but had such a mixed & miserable meal I couldn't be bothered to write it up. There were one of two dishes that we genuinely good - but most were with just OK to foul.

I am assuming it was an off night.

[Matthew Grant]

Blimey! If trade was bad before I think Tony might have just finished them off!