Keys & Fort Lauderdale Trip 2004

[babyluck]

Just got back from a week of work & play in South Florida. I really knew nothing about the area, having only been to FL a handful of times and all for work, but with a free plane ticket on the company, 78,000 Marriott points, and most importantly, a burning desire to visit the Mai Kai (an oasis of vintage tiki nirvana on Rt. 1 in Ft. Lauderdale), we had ourselves a vacation. With a little help from this forum, we managed to eat pretty well along the way...

First, a few comments on South Beach (the work part of the trip). Didn't take any pictures, but the sushi was good at Sushi Rock, as I'm sure it is pretty much everywhere on the coast. Dinner at the Blue Door in the Delano was predictably delicious (I had the Crabavocat, the Merou Cajou & a passion fruit crepe souffle, menu here). The grouper, unfortunately, was totally overcooked & dry, by far the worst piece of fish I had on the trip, but we were a large group so I expect that, and the sauce was great.

Mr. Babyluck met me in Miami & we drove down to Key Largo, where we stayed at the Marriott. I loved the hotel, but was adamant about not eating onsite too much (of course). There is a little cluster of restaurants a short walk up the highway--Senor Frijoles, Sundowners, and Captain Jack's. Senor Frijoles was good--really nice skirt steak fajita.

Will follow up w/ day 2 & lots of pictures--sorry, gotta run!

[babyluck]

Went for a sail & snorkel from John Pennekamp State Park. Our harmonica-playing captain, Bob, who ruefully revealed he was from Paramus after giving us the whole Soprano routine when he saw we were from NJ, recommended Sundowners, the sort of upscale casual seafood place next to Senor Frijoles. We were not disappointed.

Don't remember what this was called but it was tuna and it was delicious. Sounded strange with the tomato topping + wasabi & ginger, but it actually worked.

And for me, the yellowtail meuniere, perfectly cooked and really fresh-tasting:

I highly recommend the place, but if you won't listen to me, listen to Captain Bob!

Next, Key West!

[babyluck]

Lunch in Key West:

Conch Fritters at Turtle Kraals

And a cross-section:

Mango Crabcakes w/ yellow rice & plantains (just OK):

"Grilled, Blackened, or Fried?" One of many mahi-mahi sandwiches Mr. Babyluck enjoyed during the trip.

Really enjoyed the atmosphere and the meal was quite good. Washed it all down with a couple of Key West Sunset Ales.

[Varmint]

Thanks for the report. Keep it coming!

BTW, how were the conch fritters? I've yet to have a conch fritter that I thought was very good. Hopefully, this place's rendition is better.

[babyluck]

BTW, how were the conch fritters? I've yet to have a conch fritter that I thought was very good. Hopefully, this place's rendition is better.

I thought they were really tasty, actually--never had them before, so I don't know how they rate compared to others. I have seen a few recipes that call for green bell pepper, so I would say they improved on that by using red pepper & jalapeno. Green pepper would have ruined them--they were nice & sweet. The "jalapeno chutney" dipping sauce was strange but not bad. Kind of like duck sauce or the stuff you get with Thai spring rolls. I was wondering what the traditional dipping sauce is and if it would be better...?

[babyluck]

Our last stop in the Keys:

One thing we noticed in FL and especially the Keys is that they are holding on to chain restaurants that are all but gone up our way: Waffle House, Arthur Treacher's (I found that one most odd), Denny's... Mr. Babyluck has a thing for the Waffle House, and he really hasn't been the same since the one in Linden shut down. You can imagine how happy this made him:

I'm not a breakfast person at all, and I've gotta say, those pecan waffles are awesome.

P.S. I'm ashamed to say that we left the Keys without having a single slice of pie.

...Up next, stone crab!

[babyluck]

There is a little cluster of restaurants a short walk up the highway--Senor Frijoles, Sundowners, and Captain Jack's.  Senor Frijoles was good--really nice skirt steak fajita.

Too late to edit--it's Cactus Jack's, not Captain Jack's. Sorry!

[babyluck]

Billy's Stone Crab in Hollywood:

My first taste of stone crab.

Our waiter back at Sundowners told us that he has stopped even mentioning stone crab as a special since the prices are so high this year--they were charging $27.95 for an appetizer portion. But we overheard a fisherman in the Keys saying they were finally "swarming," and when we got to Billy's, our waitress said they had a great catch that morning. They were $17.95/lb. at Billy's, and worth it! I was expecting a more crabby flavor like Maryland crabs; these were much more subtle but very good. I liked the dipping sauce, too. Just had to get it out of my head that all crabs should taste like Old Bay!

When Mr. Babyluck pulled out his wallet to pay, he realized he had left his debit card at the Mai Kai the night before and was so flustered he forgot to leave a tip for our wonderful waitress. (I really appreciated the way she handled the other party who asked if they served "low-carb beer".) We both felt terrible about it but not terrible enough to drive back down to Hollywood on the last day of our vacation. What do you guys think? Should we send a note?

P.S. I really like the outdoor glider tables. Saw them a few other places, too. Very clever.

[babyluck]

Jaxson's Ice Cream Parlor in Dania:

Billy's Stone Crab followed by Jaxson's for dessert makes for a pretty good afternoon, since you won't be able to afford enough stone crabs to fill you up, and at Jaxson's you will have the opposite problem. The ice cream was good and the place was charming and unique. I left feeling bloated & wasteful (but happy) and had to bypass the candy aisle, but I was glad to see they carry all my old summer vacation favorites (Charleston Chew!).

I'm curious about the statement on their menu that "Jaxson's does not serve Coca-Cola products..."--what's that all about?

[babyluck]

Sorry for the delay! Here's the wrap-up:

Mezzes at Pelago, the Greek restaurant at the cute motel next to our less cute one:

That was the highlight of the meal, not that the rest was so bad or anything. On a whim, I ordered retsina, since I hadn't had it since I was 16 and in Greece. It still sucks. But it was nice sitting outside in the strong evening wind, alone, as everyone else had fled inside, glowing with sunburn & reflecting on our first real vacation together. Our waitress was great, a beautiful Australian girl with curly black hair. She gave us wine glasses even though she wasn't allowed because of the wind.

I checked out beeradvocate before I left and found to my surprise a place (Florida's Tap Room) in Fort Lauderdale with cask-conditioned Old Thumper, my favorite beer. From their website, I expected something polished & generic, but instead got a nicely ramshackle back-porch atmosphere where we sat for an hour or two in a beer haze.

This was the appetizer, smoked fish dip w/ sesame crackers. It was awesome.

Seared teriyaki tuna sandwich w/ wasabi mayo & radish sprouts. Also delicious.

Crab salad w/ Havarti on sourdough. Didn't taste it but he liked it:

And most importantly, the beer:

Well, that's it! I skipped the food at the Mai Kai because, well, the Mai Kai isn't about the food, it's about the rum. When I get a chance I'll post in the Ministry. Hope this helps someone else planning travels down that way. Cheers!

[plax]

We love Jaxson's, especially as it is only a few minutes from the house. The lines are terrible, though, particularly on weekends. As we're driving home, we make a point of looking at the restaurant and saying, "Look at the line!" The next time we go, though, I'll ask about the Coca-Cola thing... never noticed it myself.

Good to hear the report on Billy's, which is just across the Intracoastal from us. Have been down to Joe's but never over there.

Neil

[Rachel Perlow]

I just noticed this thread (searching for my thread about Billy's, which I have a feeling you've read) -- Glad south Florida did not disappoint!

[Gifted Gourmet]

Thank you so much, Rachel, for locating this highly appropriate thread again! Now I simply must get myself down to try those stone crab claws after those up close photos!!

[Rachel Perlow]

Or, try the mail order sources, listed here.

[flacoman]

Next time , Chez Porky's for wings!

[chefdg]

Next time , Chez Porky's for wings!

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Ditto, we go there every time we get the chance.

[NJ2FLA]

I love Jaxson's as well. Even though I am now living in Boynton Beach I will surely stop there after making a few bux at Jai-Lai!