New notes

[Florida Jim]

2000 Giacomo Vico, Roero Superiore:

100% Nebbiolo/

Slightly dusty nose with richer fruit than a recent Nebbiolo D’Alba from Giacosa/

Full body, fleshy on the palate, ripe and well structured, more extraction than the Giacosa but less finesse and complexity (at least for now), concentrated and intense, good balance/

Long finish.

Shows evidence of a pre-fermentation maceration in its extraction and evidence of the vintage in its ripeness. Clearly Nebbiolo but not in the lighter style that I was led to believe from the literature I’ve read about this DOC. Richer, more fruit-sweet and structured than anticipated, obviously in need of time in the cellar but not too closed to enjoy now.

A small revelation for me; this wine is well-made and worthy of cellaring yet delicious enough to drink now with hearty fare. No overt wood and loads of flavor.

About $10, retail. Imported by Cantina Italiana, Hollywood, FL.

2002 Feudo Arancio, Grillo:

This grape, more often used as the base for the oro and ambra versions of Marsala, is vinted dry in this case. It is aromatic, pleasantly fresh, tangy and full flavored with good backing acidity and length. A wine to use with lighter fare but also fine with shrimp and other seafood. Ready now but should last a couple years.

About $8, retail. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports, NY, NY.

2002 Feudo Arancio, Nero d’Avola:

Varietally correct, less rustic and more polished than many Nero with no noticeable wood and some persistence. Good with or without food and ready now.

About $8. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports.

2002 Pazo de Senorans, Albarino Rias Baixas:

12% alcohol/

Smells of white grapes with light white pepper tones and hints of wild flowers/

Light bodied with flavors that follow the nose, a faint hint of cream soda on the palate, bright acidity, excellent integration and the (somewhat fanciful) impression that clear rushing stream water plays a part in its flavor profile/

Medium length finish that gently reprises the flavors on the palate.

Some wines leave footprints on perception; nothing readily identifiable but something memorable; this is one of them. Subtle, suave juice with just enough acid to make things clean and clearly etched. Charming wine.

Lovely by itself but paired with butternut squash ravioli, beyond words.

About $17, retail. An Eric Solomon European Cellars Selection, NY, NY.

2000 Denis Jamain, Dom de Reuilly, Reuilly “Les Pierres Plates”:

Fresh and bright is this Sauvignon with flowers, warm clay and lime on the nose/

Light bodied but more viscous than the body suggests, bright, crisp flavors follow the nose with intensity, some mineral-stone elements and a splash of grapefruit emerge with air, lovely balance/

Long finish.

I am told there are two styles of Reuilly; one blousy and alcoholic, and, one fresh and vibrant; this is in the latter camp. Not the penetrating (sometimes, piercing) power of Sancerre, rather a lighter more elegant version with no grassiness and no cat pee (and of course, no wood). Still plenty of cut and very clean. Ready now; will last short term.

Meant to be aperitif or accompaniment with lighter fare. With penne prima vera with feta, outstanding.

About $13, retail. Imported by Kermit Lynch.

2002 D. O. Calatayud, Vina Alarba:

Nose of smoke, raspberry and dark cherry/

Medium body, very smooth, flavors follow the nose, totally integrated, little structure, good balance/

Short finish.

One dimensional but delicious.

About $6, retail. Imported by The Stacole Co.

2002 Borsao, Campo de Borja:

Very similar to the preceding wine with a touch of dark fruit in the nose and more alcoholic weight. Seemed a bit hollow at mid-palate.

About $6.50. Imported by Stacole.

(Both of these Grenache based wines were good, well-made, had no flaws, displayed good balance and were true to the variety. They could have been from anywhere.

Finally, I must admit to myself that I have no taste for Grenache, save a very few expensive ones. But that is a matter of personal taste and should not be read to reflect badly on these two wines.)

2002 Botromagno, Gravina:

60% Greco, 40% Malvasia; 12% alcohol/

Light nose of dried flowers, fresh cracked pepper and resin (somewhat reminiscent of dry Riesling on the nose)/

Light bodied, flavors follow the nose with some minerality, crisp backing acidity and a bit more flesh than the body suggests, clean and mouth-watering, good balance/

Medium length finish with some pepper notes and just a touch of honey.

Has the same kind of cut to it as young Chablis and therefore, seems ideal for seafood (especially oysters). We had it with insalata caprese and crusty olive bread and it was perfect. But this is wine that will not be for everyone; different is certainly an apt descriptor. Has the structure to keep.

About $8, retail. Imported by Winebow, Inc.; a Leonardo Locascio Selection.

2001 Abbazia Saint Anastasia, Nero d’Avola:

This is a blend of Nero and something (Cabernet, Merlot and/or Syrah) and bears the IGT label. It smelled and tasted like the blending grape was Cabernet, it had too much new oak for me and lacked any real character. However, the oak was not overwhelming, the wine was fairly well balanced and others may find this more attractive than I, much in the style of a California meritage or new wave Super Tuscan.

About $12, retail. Imported by Empson, Inc., Alexandria, VA.

Best, Jim