Restaurants in Monaco/Nice/St. Tropez/Provence

[nashman1975]

All--

Headed to Nice in 2 weeks from the US, trying to visit Cannes, Monaco, Provence, St. Tropez, and of course Nice.

Any advice about places to eat (low-end to high-end)? Also, any regional cuisine I should pay attention to (seafood, beef, truffles, etc)?

Thanks

Nashman

[menton1]

You've covered about 70 miles of coast between St Trop and the Italian border, literally hundreds of great restaurants here, impossible to list them all-- Provence is more than a day trip away from the Cote, so if you are also staying in Provence, please indicate where you will be.

I will instead tell you my favorite towns on the littoral, and if you can narrow your criteria down, then I could start to recommend some restaurants. Also, if you have a car, Nice, Monaco and St Trop will be especially difficult to deal with in your car.

Just east of Nice is a movie-set setting of Villefranche-sur-Mer, with many good restaurants wrapped around the quaiside. Nice runs the gamut of restaurants from 2 star to casual with great regional Nicois cuisine, including Pissaladiere, Pan Bagnat, and Socca.

Menton is a dreamy atmospheric town just before Italy. Cannes can be a little snooty and over-touristed, head into the hills for Mougins and St Paul; And St Trop you might want to skip altogether, it is very overrated IMHO, the wonderful perched town of Grimaud is 5 minutes away and worlds away in atmosphere with some great restaurants in the town.

Just some of my opinions on the area, can be more specific with restaurants if you can narrow down your geography.

[Busboy]

nashman1975

I am overwhelmed with envy. One morning two Septembers ago I woke up in a hotel room in Beaulieu-sur-Mere (the aptly-name "beautiful place by the sea") to see the morning sun illuminating the tile roofs below and the hills rising up from behind the village, and instantly "got" the Cote d'Azure. I walked up to the town square for coffee and bought two bottles of olive oil from the market there, the only souvenirs that seemed appropriate.

Then, last September, my wife and I spent four days in Nice and found the city to be utterly charming, filled with color and food and energy. We are going back.

You can spend a fortune on excellent food on the Cote d'Azure -- as anywhere in France -- although two major restaurants lost stars in the last Micheline Guide, Chantelclair, in Nice's Hotel negresco, and Reserve de Beaulieu, in the Metropole in Beaulieu-sur-Mer. The Michelin Guide online is a great resource, you can search restaurants by a variety of factors, including "macaroons" if you're in the mood for star-grazing.

Maybe more fun, though, the street food and cafes are delightful. I hope you'll have the opportunity to sample both starred food and street food while you are there. We've also found the Michelin "Bib Gourmand" (look for listings with a picture of the Michelin Man's head next to them) restaurants to be consistently good, as well as good bargains. You can search them on the Michelin site, as well.

This thread has my full report, as well as great advice from others who know the area far better than I (Note that Menton is the name of a small town on the Italian border, the last stop on the French train that runs up and down the coast...Menton1 knows this area well).

Note that, if you are staying in town, a car is not necessary. At least between the Nice and Monaco, the trains are cheap and run regularly. If you are a walker, you could probably walk from Nice to Cap d'Ail (if not further) in day, encountering a new town and new dining opportunities about once an hour, and take the train back. This an excellent way to work up an appetite and see the sea.

Have fun.

Edited April 6, 2004 by Busboy (log)

[cigalechanta]

Merenda in Nice, and the Bar Rene Socca for the famous Nice Socca and for the expensive, but worth it, creamy fish soup called "Bourride" " L'Ane Rouge"

[nashman1975]

All--

Thank you for your insights. I have tried to read and digest them best I could.

I'm intrigued by all of your comments about one thing in particular...I have rented a car...from what I can gather...that seems like a bad idea. Should I cancel?

To busboy--thank you for your detailed review of your trip and your insights. I had already been to the Michelin guide and that appears to be a great reference (if only Zagat's were still free online). I hope you and your wife get back soon (hopefully I will be able to cancel my flight back and never leave).

To Menton1--that's a great question--I am a newbie (I've never been to Europe) so I am an open book. I'm going with my brother who is at a conference in Cannes, so we are spending the week in Nice (and he later in Cannes). My attitude on vacations is, I go for the food (fortunately my brother lifes in SFO, CA so I eat very well when I visit). Any place you recommend I will try and go. I can't give more specifics on where we'll be because I don't know yet (sort of freeflowing it). I know I want to visit Nice, possibly get to some part of Provence, and go to Monaco (big F1 fan).

To cigalechanta--thank you for your suggestions--I will make sure to try those dishes.

One other final question--here where I live, in Washington, DC, with the exception of a few restaurants, I could always get a seat (might be at 10PM) on reasonably short notice...how does it work in that part of the world? Are there some places I should be calling now?

Thanks again,

Nashman

[Busboy]

Hey- another member of the DC caucus. Welcome.

Regarding the car, you will need one if you want to go exploring the countryside, but pretty much not for staying on the coast. I'm sure you can pick up a rental at the Nice airport so it may behoove you to just rent one for a day or two, and devote the money you saved to more food and wine. Just think -- abstaining for three days might cover a 3-star lunch with Ducasse in Monaco, and you can roll into the hills on day 4.

My limited experience in France is that reservations are relatively easy on a couple of days notice. (Though, again, I yield to Menton1) The cult-ish (and deservedly so) La Merinda doesn't even take them more than a day in advance or over the phone at all. There's a small cafe with a view of the front door a block towards the sea, where you can stake out a table and wait for someone to unlock the front door and take your name. It's a hell of a lot more fun and a lot less time-consuming than trying to get into Babbo or the French Laundry. And don't forget, you'll be off-season, and you'l be able to make reservations mid-week. Eating unfashionably early -- 7-ish, or so -- works well and frees up your evenings for strolls along the Med or impromptu pastisse tasings.

As a Washingtonian, it may take a day or two to get into the Nicoise flow of things, I know it did me. But once you do, you'll find that weeks-in-advance reservations are a lot less important there than here.

[Bux]

I'm sure you can pick up a rental at the Nice airport so it may behoove you to just rent one for a day or two, and devote the money you saved to more food and wine.

This is my wife's area of expertise and I don't keep abreast of pricing, but I know that the daily cost of a two day rental has been far more than that of a weekly rental and that reservations made in North America result in considerable savings over those made on the spot in western Europe. Very short term rentals made on the spot can be prohibitively expensive, unless there's some local company with bargain rates.

[menton1]

Well, you do face some decisions as far as a car-- you might split your time with and without a car-- it is a hindrance in Nice and Monaco, for sure. There is a great coastal train service for all the towns along the coast. But, as Busboy said, you will need a car to explore all the little villages in the back countryside...

Good luck, this is some great place to begin your European experience-- you will surely be smitten, and will devote yourself to returning often (like many of us!). Nice is a terrific, lively city, lots of history, museums, and the beautiful bay to walk along. Don't miss the street food, Socca, Pissaladiere, and don't miss the market on Cours Saleya every day but Mondays. A great restaurant in Nice, not talked about much, is La Petite Maison, rue St Francois de Paule, very near the market, introduced to us by Robert Brown and where we had a great meal together with him.

Incidentally, the best guide for restaurants in the Southeast of France is the Guide Gantié. Here, unlike Michelin, you will get several paragraphs describing in detail the atmosphere, food, and history of the proprietors so that is is much easier to make a choice. And, as we have discussed here recently, Michelin only goes back about every 3 years to the restaurants so their advice can be old news. Guide Gantie Web Site

I'm not a fan of Monaco, and you will miss the Grand Prix, it seems. There is no sign of F1 other than that weekend there, and it is a place of 70-story monstrous luxury buildings, really unappealing after all the other beautiful towns on the coast. But of course, the Louis XV is perennially highly acclaimed there.

Most restaurants in France like you to reserve, but it's not necessary to book more than the day before or even in the afternoon for the evening. Mainly a courtesy, except in the more popular places on Sat night.

For atmosphere (and if it's warm enough) go to Villefranche and eat at one of the seafood places on the quay. My favorite is Le Nautic. Also Beaulieu has a boat port with about a dozen good restaurants there. (Not right on the water like in Villefranche.)

This is such a large and varied area-- please let us know when you have a better idea of your itinerary-- then we can zero in on some specific choices for you...

Bon voyage!

[mikeycook]

I am a huge fan of Les Santons in Grimaud, which is inland from St. Tropez. They have 1 Michelin star.

[cigalechanta]

There's also a wonderful "Les Santons"in Mustiers.

[degusto]

nashman1975,

A few personal notes on addresses in the Riviera towns and their surroundings that you have indicated you want to go to.

Monaco

Menton1’s description of Monaco is fairly accurate. But it has to be seen. Monaco is full of very poor rather expensive restaurants. Le Louis XV is the best restaurant, by far, on the Riviera, and I hold it as one of my top five restaurants anywhere. There is a bargain-like lunch menu including wine at Le LouisXV but the food on the a la carte menu or the dinner menus (also available at lunch time) is usually more elaborated and made with more expensive ingredients. Sometimes, before a menu change they display the coming a la carte dishes on the lunch menu. Ask for a table on the terrace if it is not too hot.

Another good restaurant in Monaco is Bar & Boeuf, serving basically only sea bass and beef. It is another Ducasse restaurant in a very special setting on top of the famous Jimmy’z night club. It was designed by Phillipe Starck and it is semi-outdoors and only open five to six months a year. The food is rather modern and creative and almost always on a very high one star level. If you like beef, this is the place to go as they serve the exquisite Simmental beef. It is quite expensive but I think its setting and use of top raw material justifies the prices.

There is also a very good restaurant in the new Hotel du Port. The restaurant is located on the roof with a splendid view of the port and the palace on the rock. I would not be surprised if it gets a star in the next Michelin guide. The food made from high standard ingredients is creative and well made.

To watch out for in Monaco is a new to be opened (in May) restaurant with Cussac (formely La Reserve in Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Robuchon as consultant) located in the refurbished le Metropole hotel. It is said it will be a casual restaurant serving good reasonably priced food.

If you speak Italian there is a very good Italian restaurant in the port of Fontvielle called Saliere. But they will treat you bad unless you are known or speak Italian or are with Italians. It is reasonably priced food for Monaco.

Another usually ok place for reasonably priced food is Castelroc opposite the palace on the rock.

La Turbie

In la Turbie, a very charming old village, you find Hostellerie Jerome, a very small casual restaurant serving very good food that most of the time merits its two Michelin stars. It can be a bit irregular but when Cirino is on, the food can approach the very top of the two star restaurants.

Beaulieu-sur-Mer

There is as Menton1 has written a harbour with various restaurants. African Queen is a pretty popular place among locals serving very crappy food. There is a relatively new place called Max in the harbour serving quite good reasonably priced food. The lunch menu with a glass of wine is usually a bargain. La Reserve has changed chef and it is not as good as it was under Cussac.

Villefrance-sur-Mer

I have had little luck with the seafood restaurants here. But I agree that the setting is pure magic a warm spring or summer evening. But food is at best just acceptable from my point of view.

Nice

In Nice you will find the best inexpensive restaurants. La Merenda and la Petite Maison have already been mentioned I think. They serve simple food. Jouni is another restaurant that gets people's attention but I do not like it.

The starred restaurants in Nice merits little interest. I have yet to try Chantecler after famous Michel del Burgo took over. Reports I have had have been a bit mixed.

Outside Nice in Falicon you find Parcours, a new very good restaurant that this year earned one star in the Michelin guide. The view is spectacular, the interior is modern and prices are still acceptable. Food here is very good, respecting the ingredients it is made of.

Saint-Tropez

Lei Mouscardei is the place to go to. Laurent Tarridec is a master chef. No further explanation is needed. If you want to get a sense of what Saint-Tropez is all about, go to Club 55 but read Peter Mayle’s rather spot on story about it first. You do not go to 55 for the food……

Finally to the question about car. If you want to go to the villages a bit off the coast then a car is a must. Driving to Saint-Tropez from any direction is a nightmare in the summer. But when in Saint-Tropez it is not that bad to have a car. Monaco is not as bad as they say. If you go there go before 10.30 a.m. and you will avoid the rush in the morning and the rush before lunch. Also, Monaco is full of underground garages so you do not need to worry about finding a place to park the car. If you go to Monaco during the Grand Prix, do not bring the car. By the way, the best seats are in the Sainte-Devote corner.

[Jonathan Day]

Some other places worth trying in the region:

In Mougins, Le Bistrot de Mougins in the old village, for traditional food carefully prepared: daubes, brandade de morue, etc. The village is beautiful, but many of the restaurants, sadly, are mediocre. La Terrasse is sometimes good, and it has great views toward the sea. The Moulin de Mougins is no longer operated by Roger Verge (who in any event was in a bit of decline) so all bets are off there until it has been tried. The new chef is Alain Llorca.

In Cagnes sur Mer, Loulou, for superb fish and steaks from the Boucherie Marbeuf in Paris. The fish soup (not a bouillabaisse) is wonderful.

If you want bouillabaisse, Bacon in Antibes.

Unless you stick to the coast, a car is a necessity in these parts. The train line runs along the coast, but to go inland you are stuck with taxi or bus services. Parking can be a hassle in Nice and traffic queues in Monaco at busy times, but apart from that a car is helpful...not to mention for bringing back wine, olive oil and the like.

The Bellet wine region, north of Nice, is well worth a visit. It is small, but some of the producers are very good -- e.g. Clos St Vincent or the somewhat less expensive Collet de Roustan. Again, you'll need a car.

[Jonathan Day]

There are some lovely villages in the "back country" (arrière-pays), some of them "perched" on cliff faces with heart-stopping views. Gourdon is a good example -- there's a restaurant there called "The Eagle's Nest" (le nid d'aigle) where some of the smaller tables are literally cut into the cliff face, so you feel airborne as you eat. Unfortunately the food is quite ordinary.

Peillon, above Nice, is also beautiful. L'Auberge de la Madone has great views and, when I was there a decade ago, very good food. But it may have changed, as restaurants tend to do.

[cigalechanta]

johnathan, I'll be stoping in Gourdon and maybe the Nid Láigle . Is there anything good on the menu.? There's su[[osed tp be another good place ther Auberge Provencal. Did you see it?

[Larry]

If only for the view you must eat in a restaurant in Eze!!!! Just go to the Chateau and grab a drink and sit there for a while, touristy but breath taking.

Avoid any place in Cannes, eat on the beach in Nice and in the cours Saleya. Buy some of the wonderful spice mixes that they make up in the market to take home.

We stayed in a hotel in Cap d'Ail and most nights would just run across to the grocery store in Monaco and pick up some prepared food stuff, meats, cheese, breads, and set up a spread on the hotel balcony. These were truly the best meals.

[Jonathan Day]

johnathan, I'll be stoping in Gourdon and maybe the Nid Láigle . Is there anything good on the menu.? There's su[[osed tp be another good place ther Auberge Provencal. Did you see it?

Cigale, Gourdon is mostly a tourist town -- it seems to have little life of its own. There are some interesting shops, but a lot of the stuff on sale is of poor quality. When we first went there, many years ago, I bought a vinaigrier (earthenware jug with a spigot, for turning wine into vinegar) which I proudly brought home to London. It made some delicious vinegar; unfortunately, the glaze was so porous that the vinegar soon leaked all over our counter. The shop owner declined responsibility but put me in touch with the manufacturer, who said that this product was never intended for anything but decoration. That, for me, characterises Gourdon.

But the views are truly splendid. The chateau (visits are guided, and operate to a schedule) is lovely, and you can spend some pleasant hours wandering the gardens. Some of the products on sale are of high quality. So it's worth a visit. You can stop, enroute, at the Moulin de la Brague, in Opio, for olives, olive oil and tapenade.

Le Nid d'Aigle, when we were there, had simple food -- magret de canard, for example. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't different to anything you'd find anywhere in the region. The "perched" tables are for a maximum of three, I believe.

Looking at their website it appears that they have gone upscale: usually but not always bad news in a restaurant of this sort. So it could be good -- hope you'll visit and let us know!

[menton1]

I find Gourdon to be very ticky-tacky-- much more desirable are the towns closer to Italy-- Peillon, Peille, St Agnès, and, if you are not tired of all the switchbacks and hairpins, Sospel. These perched villages are quite dreamy and gorgeous, with a minimum of tourist traps. Just park and walk around and soak up the quiet countryside. You can lunch in the town bistro which is usually on the main square, or have an upscale meal at the previously mentioned Auberge de la Madone in Peillon.

[Bux]

When we first went there, many years ago, I bought a vinaigrier (earthenware jug with a spigot, for turning wine into vinegar) which I proudly brought home to London. It made some delicious vinegar; unfortunately, the glaze was so porous that the vinegar soon leaked all over our counter. The shop owner declined responsibility but put me in touch with the manufacturer, who said that this product was never intended for anything but decoration. That, for me, characterises Gourdon.

A damning, and poetic, characterization.

[cigalechanta]

Thanks, Menton, I've been to most of the Perché villages but these two I missed. Will stay in Tourette and head back to the Alpilles. Last year we were at the Colombe D'Or . this timeto try again The organic restaurant in the Camargue that has rave reviews.

We want to go back, La Chassenagnetteton,

the wall has bay leaves under chicken wire.

[Louisa Chu]

It's been 4 years since I've last been down south. In Nice I liked to hit Le Safari on the Cours Saleya the first night in town to get my bearings and a feel for the place - they did a good assorted plate of the Nicoise greatest hits - including the little meat/rice stuffed Provencal vegetables. And Fennochio - in the old church square - for ice cream - lavender and Cavaillon melon were especially nice. And what's the name of that funky little place on the old port? I really liked that too.

[menton1]

The organic restaurant in the Camargue that has rave reviews.

We want to go back, La Chassenagnetteton,

On the way to the Camargue, there is another organic restaurant in Arles, Vitamine

And what's the name of that funky little place on the old port? I really liked that too.

I think, Louisa, you might mean La Zucca Magica right on the old port-- a pure vegetarian without a menu, they just bring out 6 courses of whatever the chef prepared; usually pretty quirky, lots of hanging plants, and organic wines. The owner, Marco, is a transplant from Rome. And, keeping true to the name, there are all sorts of citrouilles decorating the walls.

Edited April 10, 2004 by menton1 (log)

[degusto]

If people are going to Camargue there is one place not to be missed. It is Chez Ju-Ju in Beauduc. It is not mentioned in many guides. It is the single most particular restaurant in all of Southern France. It looks like a shack. The toilettes are outside, the wine list sucks and it is quite a trip to go there. But they have fresh tellinnes, the great specialty of this region, and fresh fish grilled in the dining room (if it can be called a dining room). But reserve well in advance as it is very popular.

[Louisa Chu]

And what's the name of that funky little place on the old port? I really liked that too.

I think, Louisa, you might mean La Zucca Magica right on the old port-- a pure vegetarian without a menu, they just bring out 6 courses of whatever the chef prepared; usually pretty quirky, lots of hanging plants, and organic wines. The owner, Marco, is a transplant from Rome. And, keeping true to the name, there are all sorts of citrouilles decorating the walls.

menton, that is it! Thanks! No menu, no reservations - no phone for that matter. You can kind of reserve by stopping in the day of - good food, good vibes - good strong flavours.

[tate]

Nashman -- here's a list of provencal specialties that I received as part of my course work at the ESCF-Ferrandi. I've noted some explanations just in case. Have a great trip!

Soups

-------

Aigo-boulido - garlic soup bound with egg yolks and served with sliced bread

Aigo sau d'iou - bouillabaisse with potatoes

au pistou - pesto

a la poutine - puree of anchovies and sardines

au fielas - congre eel

mussels

and of course, Bouillabaisse

Fish and Shellfish

---------------------

Bourride de Sete - Bouillabaisse without saffron and with white fish only, served in two courses

Sartagnano - macedoine of small fish cooked in olive oil and finished with vinegar

Esquinade de Toulon - crabs stuffed with mussels and crabmeat, sprinkled with grated cheese

fried squid

Octopus sauteed with garlic

Estafinado a la Nicoise - ragout of salt cod seasoned with tomatoes, onions, garlic, and herbs

Aioli

Tuna en chartreuse

stuffed cockles

Sea bream with sea urchin cream

Hors d'Oeuvres

-------------------

tuna and tomato

Pissaladiere - sort of pizza (no cheese or tom. sauce!) with onions, black olives, anchovies

Pan-bagna - sandwich with anchovies, capers, tomatoes, onions, hard-boiled eggs, and olives

flavored purees

Poutine

Tapenade - puree of olives, capers, and anchovies

Anchoyade - anchovy puree with garlic, typically eaten warm with crudites

Pissalat - anchovy puree flavored with thyme, bay leaf, and cloves

Poutargue

Limacons - snails

Meat

-----

Daube de boeuf a la Provencale

Gigot d'agneau a l'Avignonnaise

Pieds et paquets de Marseille - lamb tripe stuffed with ham and veal tripe, cooked with lamb's feet

Gayette - a kind of crepinette or flat pate wrapped in caul fat, made with pork liver

Sou-fassum

Tian d'agneau a la Nicoise

Veg and Pasta

-----------------

stuffed zucchini blossoms

Farcis nicois - small stuffed vegetables

Tourte de blettes

Tians provencaux

Papetons d'aubergine d'Avignon - eggplant puree bound with eggs, poached in a tian mold

Panisse - flat cake made of chick peas or corn, rolled in grated cheese and fried (can be sweet)

Gnocchis, raviolis, canneloni

Ratatouille

Cheese

--------

mainly highly ripened goat and ewe's milk cheeses such as:

banon, brousses

some macerated cheeses: cachat, picodon

Pastry and Confiseries

--------------------------

Calissons d'Aix - made from pate d'amande

Bugnes d'Arles - cute little doughnuts

anything pine nut!

Fougasses - flat, flavored bread (ex. black olives, lardons, anchovies)

Echaudes de Draguignan - small crunchy flat cake, cooked in water and dried in the oven

candied fruit from Apt, Digne, Valreas, and Grasse

Berlingot de Carpentras - your basic hard candy

Nougat de Montelimar

Nougatine

[cigalechanta]

Another vote for Chez JuJu in the Camargue. Be sure you have a small car should you go, only one car can pass at a time on the narrow winding causeway. You pick your fish out of the tank. Try the digestidf, "Camarguise"

Other places in the Camargue "Les Tellines"and "La chassagnette"