Morelia & Huatulco report....

[marktynernyc]

just got back from Morelia and Huatulco - Michoacan is a beautiful state and

Morelia, a colonial gem. Huatulco is an isolated resort destination - which is

both a good and bad thing. I'll include my activities, accomodation and misc.

information at the end of my report.

Morelia:

Hotel Juaninos - La Azotea

Av. Morelos Sur 39 

T: (52 4) 312-0036

http://www.hoteljuaninos.com.mx/

Had both lunch and dinner here. Some of the dishes I had from the menu: dried poblano

stuffed with requeson and crushed shrimp in a coriander sauce (60.00), pumkin flower and

light poblano chili cream sopa (48.00), assorted Michoacan snacks: adobera (type of Panela

cheese)- charales (small fish) - chile ancho with cream (68.00), smoked trout on a macadamian

nut sauce (100.00), sopa tarasca (45.00), poblano stuffed with chese covered in puff pastry

and tomato sauce (70.00), jicama in a tequila caramel sauce. All the dishes were presented

stylishly. My favorite dishes - the pumkin flower and light poblano soup - a ying and yang of

light yello and light green cream soup, warm without being scalding, the flavors fresh and light;

the smoked trout on the macadamia sauce, which worked very well together. I also like the

Michoacan snacks - especially the little silvery fishes, which were a little salty, briney, crispy.

I tried a 1/2 bottle of Mexican Blanc de Blanes X-A Domeq (100.00) - which I thought had good

structure. They also make a very competent margarita (46.00). The view of the cathedral is a

knockout from here - a great place the day you arrive to have your jet-lag lunch. The restaurant

is done in a mexican minimal modern tone - this is defintely a place to come for drinks as the sun sets.

"... the cathedral is lit dramatically so the pink volcanic stone pops against the inky blue night sky,

in the plaza below a clown entertains a laughing crowd, from above the cars and the crowds move

at a leisurely place, the night is not a time for rushing about..." I hate to admit but I could have almost

eaten all my meals here while in Morelia. My only quibble - the cloth which they wrapped the warm

tortillas imbued them with just a hint of detergent (can't believe I would notice something like that

but I love the smell of warm corn torilllas)

[marktynernyc]

Here's La Azotea's menu:

ENTREES

Breaded pumpkin flower stuffed with requesón in poblano chilli sauce

Breaded Panela Cheeses  with  herb garland

Platter of cold meats and  assorted cheeses

Crushed shrimp in chipotle chilli sauce on fried corn tortilla

Chicken "Sopes"

Mushrooms  with shrimp in garlic sauté

Fried flour tortillas stuffed with  requesón in avocado sauce

Dried beef, northern style

Salmon Carpaccio 

Beef  tenderloin Carpaccio 

Asturian cheese breaded with puff pastry

 

CHILES

Dried poblano chilli stuffed with requesón  and shrimp in coriander sauce

Poblano Chilli stuffed with cheese covered in puff pastry  and  tomato sauce

 

SALADS

Monastery - Fine lettuces  with  jicama and mango

Convent - Watercress, salad with apple, bacon and sesame

Caesar salad

Friar - Fine lettuces  with avocado, tomato, onion , cucumber  and  green pepper

Monk - Spinach salad, with camembert cheese and prosciutto ham

 

Dressings: Vinaigrette French , Honey or Balsámic

 

SOUPS 

"Mestiza" Soup with mushrooms, pumpkin flowers and corn

Chicken broth "Tlalpeño" with vegetables and chipotle

 

CREMES

Corn cream

Pumpkin flowers and  light poblano chilli cream

Combination of fine cheeses cream

"Chicharron "cream  

 

PASTA

Fettuccini with smoked salmon

 Carbonara Spaghetti 

 

POULTRY

Chicken breast  stuffed with  pumpkin flower and cheese in poblano sauce

Breaded chicken breast stuffed with prosciuto ham and cheese in mustard sauce

Chicken breast  with  mexican "mole" sauce

Duck with orange or black cherry sauce

 

MEAT

Beef fillet stuffed with fine-grained corn in "huitlacoche" sauce

Beef fillet tournedos with cheese sauce

Beef fillet au gratin  in chipotle sauce

Beef skirt steak accompanied with guacamole, beans and french onions

Mexican style beef fillet steak with Nopal in red chili sauce

Grilled beef tenderloin acompanied with potato and vegetables

 

SHRIMP

Breaded shrimp stuffed with cheese

Shrimp al´orange  in a tequila- based flambée

Shrimp au coconut with orange and bilberry chutney

Jalisco shrimp 

 

FISH 

Red snapper fillet, veracruzana style

Red snapper in garlic sautee

Smoked trout navarra style

 

MICHOACAN SPECIALITIES

Assorted Michoacan Snacks:" Charales,dried chilli, asadera cheese"

"Corunda" soup

"Tarasca" soup

 Smoked trout on macadamia nut sauce

Enchiladas Placeras  

(stuffed with cheese in red chilli pepper sauce)

 

DESSERTS

DIFFERENT CREATION EACH DAY

Be sure to enquire about our specialty

LAS MONJAS

Thinly sliced jícama in  cajeta and tequila sauce

[marktynernyc]

Las Trojes

Col. La Loma Camelinas

Juan Sebastián Bach 51 

T: (52 4) 314-7344

A restaurant housed in a troje, a wood cabin typical of the region - you'll need to take a cab.

The main emphasis here is carne. Seems to be a popular suit and tie lunch place, but there

was also casual. As I was seated tortillas, salsa, limes, nopales, rojo and verde sauces,

some raw vegetables and bread were placed on the table. I had queso adobera with a chipotle

sauce (49.00), crema cilantro (36.00) and filet poblano (99.00). The queso adobera (semi

firm cheese in a chipotle sauce) came with warm corn tortillas (no detergent smell) and

guacamole - add a spoonful of nopales, a squeeze of lime - a nice appetizer. If crema cilantro

sounds a bit overwhelmingly cilantro-ey, it wasn't. Does anyone else find similar notes between

cilantro and tomatillos because I thought i detected some tomatillos also? Garnished with toasted

sesame seeds and croutons - this was a smile producing sopa. I order the filet poblano rare -

and it came rare - I should have ordered it medium rare. It was a thin filtet folded over with the poblano

strips inside, smothered under a very light cheese sauce, a sprinkling of onion. The dish was a bit

muddied for my taste. For dessert, postre flan de cajeto and espresso - which was okay.

For wine - I had a half bottle of cabernet sav X-A Domeq (110.00)

[marktynernyc]

Villa Montana

Patzimba 201

T (443) 314 02 31

http://www.villamontana.com.mx/

Located outside of the historic district, in the mountains but what a view - I sipped

Don Julio tequila (56.00) at sunset on the terrace overlooking the city, gazing

at those evocative unmistakable Mexican mountains, watching the lights come on.

The hotel and grounds are intimate and cozy. (Along with tequila I got a small glass of

tomato juice, limes and salt - not really sure what the proper succession is - does anyone know?)

For dinner I started with a lobster and pumpkin flower bisque touched with agave (70.00).

Thick and creamy, warm not tongue burning. There were small pieces of agave on the

bottom of the dish - which add a nice textural contrast to the silky sopa. For my entree - duck

breast in a porto sauce with bacon wrapped asparagus and risotto with squash blossoms

and wild mushrooms (170.00). Most of the dishes on the menu lean towards international

instead of Mexican (unfortunately). I had a 1/2 bottle of cab. sav. X-A Domeq (100.00) For

dessert I had a nahuatl avocado souffle (50.00) - a light green, airy, not too sweet confection.

Service was attentive - I felt a bit self conscious because I was the only person there at first -

other diners arrived, the fire place was lit, a piano player played gently.

[marktynernyc]

Hotel de la Soledad

Ignacio Zaragoza 90

(011-52-443) 312-18-88

http://www.hsoledad.com

I tried the Michoacan traditonal breakfasts - one morning, uchepos, which are fresh green corn tamales,

served with a cream, salsa rojo and either poblano or nopales strips and refried beans. Another morning,

corundas, which are a crumbly light tamale, also served with cream, salsa rojo, refried beans. I really liked

the corundas - the airyness in contrast to the thick beans. Along with the breakfast, marmalade and toast,

fresh fruit, hot chocolate, coffee, and juice - all for 58.00. Sitting on the edge of the courtyard, watching the

morning sun slowly pour into the courtyard, the birds chirping, the chill in the air (it get's cold in the mountains),

a blue cloudless sky - life is good here.

[marktynernyc]

(sorry - I was away this weekend)

Misc:

Mercado de Dulces

Wandered through and tried the coconut/lime treat (was tasty), tamarind (which was sweet) and

tamarind rolled in chili powder (which is an acquired taste) - both tamarind treats possess a lot of

seeds. I also tried atole de guyaba - which was great at night when the temperature had dropped.

Couldn't find atole de negro. Overall the merchants sell the same treats - and the upstairs "crafts"

section is pretty bland, but has some great vintage postcards.

Monarch butterfly preserve / El Rosario

http://www.mmg.com.mx

I did an all day excursion (400.00) to the monarch butterfly preserve in El Rosario. Seven of us

departed Morelia with Luis Miguel around 9 am and drove for about 2 hours through the Michoacan

countryside, which is beautiful. Green fields - pear and apple tree groves, newly planted agave,

shallow lakes. The hike into the mountains starts at a village that has numerous small restaurants

and stores. The hike takes about 1 1/2 hours to get to the main viewing area - the air does get thinner

as you hike upward through the forest. Along the way Luis told the migration pattern, the theories and

the folklore associated with the monarch butterflies. The butterfly nucleus drifts, and expands on the

mountain side according to weather conditions. You cannot walk underneath the huge mass of

butterflies clinging to the trees anymore - however, Luis did bring some high powered binoculars

which allowed for incredible viewing. Also, when the sun went behind clouds, the air was filled with

monarch butterflies fluttering about everywhere. Personally - I found the experience moving - it almost

felt like a pilgrimage, the forest lending a cathedral like quality, the migration of millions of monarchs

from Canada to Mexico for thousands of years - a rewarding experience. Hiking back to

the small village we had lunch at one of the restaurants, which was included with our excursion - we

started with freshly grilled nopales, hand pressed blue corn tortillas which were thick, chewy and

slightly charred form the stove. With a dollop of a wonderful home made picante amarillo salsa, I

was in heaven. I ordered pollo con mole, rice and beans (which was okay, the enchiladas looked

better) and quesadillas with requeson (the cheese slightly tart), which were great - a couple

cervesas - this meal hit the spot perfectly. If you choose to do the butterfly excursion - I really

recommend Luis - the group size was intimate, he is extremely knowledgeable and personable -

just a satisfying experience. His company also offer tours of Morelia and surrounding environs.

[Jaymes]

I just want to say how much I appreciate your taking the time to post all of this terrific information! I am hoping to travel to that area sometime soon, perhaps for an extended stay, and your information is really a help to me.

Thanks again.

[marktynernyc]

Dulces Vallisoletanos de Antano

Av. Madero Oriente 440, Centro

01-443-312-04-77

This confectionary store is located near Templo de las Monjas.

They make fruit pastes, jellies and liquors in a variety of

flavors. Marzipan like candies painted like delicate jewels

are available as are cajeta filled wafer cookies and numerous

flavors of ice creams.

I found this website very helpful and informative:

http://www.cdctesoros.com/

List of boutique hotels and upscale restaurants in and around Morelia.

Here are a few restaurants I had considered for my visit to Morelia.

Note that many non-hotel restaurants close by 6 pm on Sundays.

Fonda Las Mercedes

Leon Guzman 47

(52 4) 312-6113

Extensive selection of carefully prepared Mexican and international dishes.

San Miguelito

Chopin 45

(52 4) 324-4411

Creative Mexican dishes such as filete tzitziqui, filet of beef served

in a sauce of squash flowers and corn.

Virrey de Mendoza

Av. Madero Pte. 310

(52 4) 312-0633

Mexican and international specialties including Tarascan soup,

corundas, and white fish from Lake Pátzcuaro.

Casa de la Calzada

Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel, 344

(443) 313 53 19

[marktynernyc]

Morelia has been called the "aristocrat of colonial cities" and

is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Spanish baroque architecture

is done in pink volcanic stone. The Cathedral is gorgeous - the

spires are over 200 feet tall. The tourist center is located in the

Biblioteca Publica - they have a free detailed walking tour map

of the historic center. The city is incredibly clean and somewhat

stately and reserved. (Very opposite to the festive tone of Oaxaca.)

The city is a real pleasure to stroll around - I loved walking through

the numerous courtyards beneath a deep blue sky. There are numerous

museums and theaters. The one must see is Templo de San Diego.

The outside of the church is very plain and in no way hints at the

interior - the inside is a riot of color and decoration. Every square

inch is colored and adorned - like an overly decorated cake - very

unique and impressive.

Here are a few web sites i found helpful:

http://visitmorelia.com/english/ index.asp

Lots of information about Morelia - hotels, restaurants, festivals,

museums, theater, etc.

http://michoacan-travel.com/fipr otur/eng_principal.htm

Lots of information regarding Michoacan.

http://www.visitmexico.com/home/

click on destinations, then Morelia

http://www.mexweb.com/colonial.htm

If you have questions regarding my trip to Morelia - feel free to ask.

I'll be posting about Huatulco later this week.

[marktynernyc]

a couple other things:

weather: weather.com and weatherunderground.com had predicted

rain/scattered rain for the three days I was to be in Morelia - let's not

over look the previous 30 days had been partly sunny to sunny, and

the following 5 days after I left Morelia were to be partly sunny to sunny.

Both web sites were completely wrong (yet when I went to Istanbul, were

fairly accurate) - every day was perfect, during the day a high of about

75, blue skies with an occasional clouds, no rain - at night, it got chilly,

lower 50s, upper 40s.

one funny observation: on the butterfly excursion, Luis, our guide

mentioned casually, that a margarita is considered a female drink in Mexico

(I could sense the other two men in the car tense up also). One them asked rather

nonchalantly, "did you say that only women drink margaritas?" "Si, men do not."

I was somewhat conflicted for the rest of my trip because I really like a well

prepared margarita. Yet when I ordered a tequila, or when in Huatulco mezcal,

I invariably got a quick approving nod from the waiter. In Huatulco, ordering mezcal

got me a "hmm", a raised eyebrow and a slight grin. Of course after my 5th mezcal

the waiter wasn't sure what to think of me.

[marktynernyc]

Huatulco:

Club de Playa, Camino Real Zaashila

Tangolunda Bay

http://www.caminoreal.com/

After checking in, walking around the property (which is beautifully landscaped

and situated), I decided to have lunch - this restaurant is located at the far end

of the beach, which gives a wide expansive view of the bay, and has an infinity

pool for when you you feel like cooling off. The menu has some Mexican seafood

dishes but caters to more standard American dishes (hamburger, etc). I asked

whether I could order items from the room menu - which featured more Oaxacan

dishes - and they accommodated me. I tried one of the ceviches (75.00), which was

satisfactory - needed more lime, which I added. Also had quesadillas de calabaza (45.00)

and oaxqueno tamales (45.00?) - the quesadillas had generous amount of that wonderful

white, stringy Oaxaca cheese. With a dab of guacamole or salsa, a gentle warm breeze,

the sun glinting off the water and a mezcal (46.00) or two (or three) - I settled in for the

afternoon, getting a little bit of sun (which was very strong), taking a dip every now and

then and just trying to slow down.

Chez Binni, Camino Real Zaashila

Tangolunda Bay

http://www.caminoreal.com/

The setting for this restaurant is impressive - you sit under massive ocher barrel vaults

that open towards the Pacific, swaying palm trees and bougainvillea fill in the setting.

Service was competent - a solo guitar player in the bar next door. Being that Huatulco is

a resort town - prices everywhere were very similar. Definitely a nice setting. For dinner

I started with lobster quesadilla with pineapple pico de gallo (90.00) - I liked the pineapple pico de

gallo, could have used a bit more lobster though. For my entree, red snapper marinated in

white wine and coriander (I think) with roasted banana on a banana and mango sauce (170.00) - the

roasted banana added an interesting note to the fish. Dessert: crepes with Oaxacan chocolate

and bananas. I had a bottle of Blanc de Banes X-A Domeq (150.00). All the dishes were well

prepared and reflected an assured touch.

[marktynernyc]

Bel-La-Grilli, Camino Real Zaashila

Tangolunda Bay

http://www.caminoreal.com/

This is where the breakfast was served, overlooking the beach.

I usually ordered freshly made huitlacoche, chapulines, nopales

and calabaza quesadillas for breakfast with a side of frijoles and

assorted fruits with lots of freshly squeezed lime. And also hot

chocolate. The buffet also offered other Mexican/Oaxacan

specialties and the usual American breakfast standards.

It was included with my room.

Las Cupulas, Quinta Real

http://www.quintareal.com/english/huatindex.htm

The Quinta is one of two non-inclusive's on Tangolunda Bay.

It is an intimate hotel comprising 28 rooms, lushly landscaped,

impeccable design details and a perfect view of the bay. For

dinner I started with a seabass and octopus ceviche with cactus

salad in a soya and habenero vinaigrette (105.00). Then had

chilies stuffed with cheese and grasshoppers on a red and

green sauce (60.00). For my main dish, mahi mahi with a lime

and fresh vanilla sauce (150.00). For dessert, crisp apple and

walnut tamalito with guanbaya sherbert (55.00). All the dishes

were well prepared - the only quibble, I wish the chilies hadn't

been breaded. To drink, I had a couple mezcals and a glass of

a Mexican white, Fume - which I found a bit thin and weak.

I would also recommend coming here for afternoon drinks.

[marktynernyc]

Ve-El-Mar

Santa Cruz

After spending 2 days in the resort, I wanted a dose of

reality and went to Santa Cruz, which is where the cruise

ships dock. Maybe it was because the tables are literally at

the water's edge but something about the setting made this

a real sweet spot for me. Started with a large mixed seafood

cocktail (90.00) - a 1950's soda fountain glass filled to rim with

various seafood in a slightly sweet spicy sauce. Ordered a

whole pescado, grilled (100.00) - which was moist and pleasing.

To drink - mezcal on the rocks (40.00-50.00?) The setting was

perfect - a constant breeze, the occasional vendor selling either

hats or coffee - it just felt more authentic/real compared to the

resort (more about that issue later). At dusk I walked around

Santa Cruz - not really much to look at but, I think, better than

La Crucecita. I did watch a procession of locals going to church,

singing and carrying banners - their plaintive voices rising and falling.

Sabor de Oaxaca

La Crucecita

Maybe it was because I was sitting on the beach all day and had

a few mezcals - but I can't really remember much about this meal.

I do recall having 2 mezcals, a seafood cocktail and a stuffed chili (80.00)

of some sort, which was flavorful - the bill came to 220.00. The menu

does featured many Oaxacan dishes besides fish.

Alebreges Del Mar

Bahia El Maguey

This was my most expensive meal while in Huatulco - I must admit

though I had 5 mezcals (60.00) throughout the day. All the

restaurants line the beach and have palapas, lounge chairs, etc.

My belongings were safe while I swam. I started with a small

mixed seafood ceviche (100.00) - very simple, clean distinct

flavors. I decide to try the Hawoi(?) pineapple - a pineapple stuffed

with jumbo shrimp wrapped in bacon, roasted slices of poblano and

pineapple, drizzled with a cream sauce and a sprinkle of fresh corn

and cilantro (250.00). This was a very rich dish but fell a bit flat for me.

Maguey is powdery tan sandy beach - a bit make shift and rough around

the edges (which I like) and seems to be a popular local place for

family outings. The water is clear green and calm, great for swimming.

[marktynernyc]

Dona Celia

Bahia de Santa Cruz

Had dinner here my last night - along the water's edge,

beneath a starry sky - a moist evening breeze. Started with

a shrimp and octopus cocktail, once again served in a large

parfait glass, then had lobster a la Dona - which was nicely

seasoned but not extraordinary.

Misc

I spent one entire day sitting under a palapa on the Camino

Real's private beach. Ordered a couple bottles of X-A Domeq

white throughout the day and just kicked back. What made

this day so enjoyable was how ensconced I felt underneath the

palapa. Sand had been heavily deposited at the base so one

had to stoop to get under this palapa - thus I was always in

shade - the Pacific a stone's throw away, the occasional bird

walking by, a gentle constant breeze, the sun sparkling off the

water, the ousnd of the surf. I was surprised to find the price

of lobster at some beach side restaurants to be around 600.00.

At the Camino Real, a small lobster was 280.00 - it was beautifully

grilled , split in half - a nice afternoon snack. Also, a local Oaxacan

was purveying freshly caught oysters - 15 for 200.00 - with a

squeeze of lime, some homemade sauce - very nice.

[marktynernyc]

Here are a couple web sites related to Huatulco:

http://www.tomzap.com/index.html

http://www.huatulco.com.mx/aguaazul/

http://mexicoboutiquehotels.com/index.html

Some unrelated food afterthoughts:

I'm still unsure about resorts and resort destinations. The

one thing I really liked about Huatulco was it's remoteness -

I felt so far away from my life, NYC - and that was one of the

reasons for going to Huatulco. Crucecita and Santa Cruz are

concrete block constructed towns - no charm and way too many

stores selling crappy tourist junk. Also you need to take a taxi

to get anywhere - mind you, taxis are pretty cheap but there is

something about pedestrian traffic that I enjoy very much. As for

the resort, somehow being so insulated from the "real world" didn't

coax me to fully relax. There were moments I didn't feel like I was

in Mexico - very strange. The hotel grounds are beautifully lush -

great beach - good to excellent food - one of the most beautiful

pools I've ever seen - personable staff but still something didn't feel

right. Maybe if I had been with friends. The Quinta felt very intimate,

only 28 rooms - while the Camino Real has about 120 rooms, which

all have sea views. The one negative I have regarding the Camino

Real is the room felt a bit institutional - tropical print bedspread and

curtains, mixed matched furniture - great bathroom though. Also, the

rooms don't have rugs. I was awoken every morning at 6 am by the

person in the room next door, stomping back and forth to the bathroom.

I wish I had rented a scooter and explore the coastline - that may have

alleviated my feeling so insulated. I'm glad I didn't stay in Crucecita -

it's too far away from the beach. And I had no interest in staying at

any of the all-inclusive beach hotels. I will say though, sitting underneath

that palapa was really enjoyable and relaxing.

I would like to visit the state of Oaxaca in September as the rainy season

is winding down and everything is green and lush. I really liked the verdant

Michoacan countryside - which is supposedly awash in flowers in September,

add to that the Mariachi festival in Guadalajara in September - hmm....

I found out there are hot spring spas in Michoacan, which might be nice to

visit next winter. And of course there's Patzcuaro - so much to see...

If I could do it over again, I might actually do it in reverse - Huatulco first,

then Morelia. I was really taken with Morelia - it surpassed my expectations

ten fold - a real delight. Anyway, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

[divina]

I had the same feeling abut Hualtuco..

we rented a villa with cook and made.. so only went into town a couple of times...

we took it as real vacation.. but for me was for Gringo's!

We were offered tours.. tours... tours...

We had just come from Oaxaca ( went to Suzanna Trilling's cooking school for 2 day of classes) As noisy and crazy as Oaxaca is I love it!

Hualtuco:

WE ate lightly at our home.. our cook made fruit plates, gave us yogurt and fresh juice, eggs ( different everyday) with tortilla, toast and jam.

Lunch was Quesedilla's... that's all ( I think she called them Morsito's, a little bite to kill the hunger) and then dinner was lovely local food!

the last night she did a huge red snapper stuffed with shrimp, grilled on the barbeque!

The times we went into town... it wasn't too interesting..

I did enjoy the market..

[ExtraMSG]

What were the costs for the cooking classes?

[dls]

What were the costs for the cooking classes?

Trilling class info here.

I attended a day class there about 3 years ago and it was very good. I later attended a day class at Casa Sagrado. Also, very good. Their info is here

[divina]

we did 2 private sessions ( we were a group of 6) with Suzanne

ONe day we requested a Tamale workshop.. boy did she make us work.

the kitchen space is fabulous,

and there is lots of help ( Oscar makes great margaritas)

I especially enjoyed themarket tour and tasting. what I offer in Florence so nice to see it from the other side!

the next day was a full menu, with cheese making and also mole!

[Sweet Willie]

I just want to say how much I appreciate your taking the time to post all of this terrific information! I am hoping to travel to that area sometime soon, perhaps for an extended stay, and your information is really a help to me.

Thanks again.

fully agree as I will be traveling there next spring, THANK YOU!!

[marlena spieler]

whats the road like into morelia?

i was there a zillion years ago, and totally charmed, what an unexpected gem, so colonial, so exquisite, i remember bouganvilla climbing a pink spanish looking building twisting around the wrought iron as it climbed......

however i also remember that as delighted as i was to be in such a beautiful and delicious place, the road in was scarey, real scary.

we might have come by bus from patzcuaro, maybe there is an easier way? i remember sheer drops from cliffs and mountainsides and a bus driver who really enjoyed passing the cars in our side of the road. fast. and i think he was wearing a blindfold. who wouldn't? it was too scary to look at.

thanks,

marlena

ps this is such a marvellous posting, so really thoughtful and rich with tasty detail. a million gracias!