Lucy Mexican Barbecue

[Fat Guy]

Anybody been? The review in New York Magazine, by Adam Platt, makes it sound pretty awful. Has the whole Latin-theme-park restaurant trend finally run out of steam? With the exception of OLA, there hasn't been a good opening in this category in ages.

One error in the review:

Just ask the proprietors of the baroque downtown furnishing store ABC Carpet & Home, who have been dabbling in the fickle world of restaurants for several years now, with mixed success. Their first restaurant was called Chicama, an inventive, seviche-themed establishment managed by the great Nuevo Latino chef Douglas Rodriguez. But when his esoteric products didn’t move as quickly as hoped, Rodriguez departed. Now Chicama has been replaced on the ground floor of the ABC building by Lucy Mexican Barbecue . . .

As far as I know, Chicama was the second restaurant in that space. The first was Jonathan Waxman's ill-fated Colina. (I think someone computed that Colina received half a star from the Times, Post, and Daily News . . . combined.)

From the Post:

Just as things were starting to look rosier for the critically maligned Colina, the word is, it is now shuttered - as in, stick a fork in it, it's done. The new operator in the space at 35 E. 18th St. will be acclaimed chef Douglas Rodriguez, formerly of Patria and still slated to open the now-overdue Unico. The ABC Home & Carpet group has replaced the Italian cuisine team of Jeff Salaway and Jonathan Waxman with Rodriguez's exotic Latin menu. A large ceviche bar at the site is also in the planning. The as yet unnamed eatery will open at the end of this month.

[mikeyrad]

I've been to Lucy's. I do like the Mexican barbacoa, but the scene is far more impressive than the food. As a restaurant, the women are spectacular.

Has the whole Latin-theme-park restaurant trend finally run out of steam?

This reminded me of one of the most ridiculous articles on dining ever published. The Nov 6 - 13 issue of Time Out New York made an extremely feeble attempt to compare the Upper East and West Sides in terms of dining. TONY concluded that UWS dining was better than the UES because:

• it has better Nuevo Latino cuisine
  
• it has better late night dining
  
• it has better brunch offerings
  

whereas the UES:

• has better haute cuisine
  
• has better sushi
  

The final score 3-2, UWS.

What struck me is that the editors obviously considered Nuevo Latino cuisine to be crucial in their comparison. My guess is that most of TONY's readers, myself included, consider Italian, Chinese, Indian, Pizza, Burgers, take-out/delivery, and a host of other cuisines/criteria to be far more important in judging the livability of a neighborhood in regards to restaurants.

Edited January 28, 2004 by mikeyrad (log)

[pnapoli]

i can only vouch for their mojitos, which were excellent.

[georgesimian]

I had lunch there the other day. The experience was a little weird. We came in around 12:15. there was nobody there, and we had to ask some of the waiters at the bar if they were even open. But once we sat down, the service was good. I thought the food was really good. There was a sort of green, hominy soup I started with, I can't remember the name, which was excellent. Between the three of us, we pretty much tried everything on the lunch menu. The octopus starter and the soup were really the highlights, the ceviche was just good. I would go back in a second. And it wasn't too expensive. After a while, a few others came in, but there were only about four tables with people. I guess that doesn't bode well.

I'm all for these gourmet Mexican restaurants. I wish there were more of them. I think fad-wise, they're the next Japanese.

[jogoode]

Welcome to eGullet!

How was the octopus served?

[SobaAddict70]

What distinguished tacos filled with bistec al carbon, or grilled skirt steak, was the salsa that accompanied it. Otherwise the steak was a boring piece of grilled meat. Crisp roast chicken was not. Others do barbecued ribs far better and a spicy shrimp salad was neither spicy not flavorful. A chiles rellenos salad contained burned peppers.

Lucy Mexican Barbecue (Marian Burros) (from today's DIGEST update. You may have to scroll down for the relevant link.)

What I want to know is, how hard is it to mess up Mexican food?!?

Soba

[marlena spieler]

[ how hard is it to mess up Mexican food?!?

Soba

with great dedication to the task, and with perseverence, even mexican food can be ruined.

[bpearis]

The food would probably be considered okay if you weren't paying $22 for an entree. Lately, Marion Burros has been laying it out like a lame duck president. This may be the least number of reccomended dishes in a main review I've ever seen.

[jgould]

based on ALL the negative comments, why don't "they/we" just take lucy out & shoot her, & put her/us out of misery ????????????

[mikeyrad]

As a restaurant, the women are beautiful.

[baye]

Plantain Cafe on 38th Street has restored my faith in Nuevo Latino cuisine. Great, informal lunch menu, but the chef's tasting menu during dinner really shines. Definitely worth a visit...

[SobaAddict70]

Edit: Merged topics.

Soba

[baye]

Edit: Merged topics.

Soba

If you are referring to me, not necessarily. I was responding to Fat Guy's question regarding whether the "whole Latin-theme-park restaurant trend finally run out of steam..."

[georgesimian]

Why should good Mexican food be any cheaper than any other good food?