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Thanksgiving week in the 5e (and 4e and 6e)


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We are just back from Thanksgiving week in Paris. Our restaurant interests this time were to find mid-price restaurants in the neighborhood of our rental apartment in the 5th, or within a reasonable walking distance. We had some very enjoyable meals, with several good suggestions taken from contributors to this forum.

Le Pré Verre, 5e, 8 rue Thenard (Maubert Mutalité) 01-43-54-59-47. Saturday lunch. New style bistro food, offered only as daily specials with an extensive and interesting list of wines by the glass.

L’Estrapade, 5e, 15 rue de l’Estrapade, one block to the south of the Pantheon. 01-43-25-72-58. Monday dinner. (Only open Monday – Friday). Tiny (20 people max) bistro owned and run by a young couple – she is in the front and he is in the kitchen. Very good bistro food offered only as daily specials, with a particular feature on products from a family farm to the north of Paris. 68 Euros for two, including a good Cote Roannaise.

Le Reminet, 5e, 3 rue des Grands Degres, (Maubert Mutalité). 01-44-07-04-24. Sunday evening dinner. Bustling bistro, with a reasonably good cotellette d’agneau. 100 Euros. Relatively full of tourists.

L’Epi Dupin, 6e, 11 rue Dupin, close to Sèvres-Babylone, 01-42-22-64-56. Tuesday evening dinner, with 7:00 reservation (other choice was for 9:30). Very popular bistro, with primary focus on daily specials. As explained to us by French regular customers at the next table, the chef cooked in Greenwich Conn. for several years and thus knows the American way to make sure that the restaurant is always full and tables turn over quickly. Further, there was a large contingent of Americans scattered throughout. Nevertheless, the French couple continue to come back because of the quality of the food. 92 Euros including a half bottle of wine.

Le Dome due Marais, 4e, 53 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 01-42-74-54-17. Located in the Marais at the corner of the rue de Francs-Bourgeois and the rue des Archives. Wednesday evening dinner at 9:15. The main dining room (be sure to reserve) is under a cupola in what used to be church. A mix of Breton and other dishes. For example, an entrée of coquilles St. Jacques done in the style of tripe à la mode de Caen. A wonderfully diverse French crowd, ranging from an office party dinner of 14 to a couple of tables of young lovers enjoying romantic dinners together. Old standards played at discrete volume on a piano at the edge of the circular dining room added to the atmosphere. 112 Euros for two, including aperitifs and half a bottle of Santenay

Le Vieux Bistro, 4e, 14 rue du Cloître Notre-Dame, 01-43-54-18-95. Located across the street from the north side of Notre Dame. Lunch at 1:30 on a cold and damp Saturday in late November. A real gem in the midst of a tourist area. Make a reservation and request the dining room on the Notre Dame side – a period piece. A small room mostly full of French regulars enjoying a bistro lunch on a Saturday. Coquilles St. Jacques ordered from the blackboard and a glass of Sancerre. 67 Euros for two.

l’Atelier Maitre Albert, 5e, 1 rue Maitre Albert, 01-56-81-30-01. Located just off the Quai Montebello to the south of Notre Dame. A Guy Savoy off-shoot with an extensive rotisserie. We had a late reservation (9:30), and while the restaurant was bustling the service was very good. Excellent food done in the Guy Savoy spare style (supreme de volaille with fois gras, followed by grilled tuna). A well chosen wine list at relatively moderate prices. 160 Euros for two.

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