Kerala in the NY Times

[Suvir Saran]

"In South India, No End of Spice, No End of Flavor

By R. W. APPLE Jr.

Published: October 22, 2003

KOCHI, India

KERALA is a mere frond of a state, long and narrow, green and fertile — 15,000 palm-sheltered square miles in southwest India, rimmed by mountains called the Western Ghats, washed by the Arabian Sea and laced by an idyllic tangle of lakes and streams known as the Backwaters.

Its people, known as Malayalees, call it "God's own country" or "the blessed land," not least because of its irresistible food.

For centuries, long before the steamship, long before the jet plane, venturesome traders rode the trade winds to Kerala. Romans, Phoenicians, Chinese, Arabs, Portuguese, Frenchmen, Dutchmen and Britons all came here, and so did Jewish merchants from Venice. St. Thomas the Apostle is said to have landed along this coast in A.D. 52, and Christopher Columbus was headed west in search of Kerala's fabled spices when he stumbled upon America. ......"

Click Here to read more.

[JoanB]

Suvir,

Thank you. It couldn't have been more timely. We're leaving for Kerala on Friday and in fact are staying at the Brunton Boatyard in Kochi.

[Suvir Saran]

Suvir,

Thank you.  It couldn't have been more timely.  We're leaving for Kerala on Friday and in fact are staying at  the  Brunton Boatyard in Kochi.

JoanB, have much, much fun. It is amazing.... and Mr. Apple writes with great sincerity.

Have fun in Kerala. Come back and post here even some pictures.

Safe travels.

[mongo_jones]

"In South India, No End of Spice, No End of Flavor

By R. W. APPLE Jr.

Published: October 22, 2003

KOCHI, India

KERALA is a mere frond of a state, long and narrow, green and fertile — 15,000 palm-sheltered square miles in southwest India, rimmed by mountains called the Western Ghats, washed by the Arabian Sea and laced by an idyllic tangle of lakes and streams known as the Backwaters.

Its people, known as Malayalees, call it "God's own country" or "the blessed land," not least because of its irresistible food.

For centuries, long before the steamship, long before the jet plane, venturesome traders rode the trade winds to Kerala. Romans, Phoenicians, Chinese, Arabs, Portuguese, Frenchmen, Dutchmen and Britons all came here, and so did Jewish merchants from Venice. St. Thomas the Apostle is said to have landed along this coast in A.D. 52, and Christopher Columbus was headed west in search of Kerala's fabled spices when he stumbled upon America. ......"

Click Here to read more.

"a noodle dish called upuma" -- is this something other than the suji based upmas i'm used to or is this faulty labelling.

elsewhere in the article i ask if someone told the writer that sambar isn't a kerala specific dish and/or that kerala food isn't the only indian cuisine different than the north indian food most americans recognize. and did nobody feed the poor man and his wife some appams with stew?

on the whole though, an interesting article, and good to see other parts of india getting some play--i wonder if this visibility in the ny times is the first concrete sign of kerala food perhaps getting a higher profile in the u.s.

[bloviatrix]

Interesting article. I have only one complaint -- I would have liked to have seen a map of Kochi to get a feel for the lay-out of the city. I

have a book on Keralan cuisine by Maya Kaimal, I'm going to have to re-visit it.

[Vikram]

A nice enough article I guess, and certainly as a long time proponent for South Indian food I'm happy to see it. Nevertheless, being irredeemably contrary, I have some bones to pick with it.

Like did he have to go to Cochin and stay at Brunton's Boatyard (one of those places that certainly looks very imposing, out there on the waterfront, but is rather less so up close. Especially when the Malabar House Hotel, which is truly something, is close by) AND eat there? Like there's no better place in Cochin? Like the Grand in Ernakulam, which is by almost universal consensus the best place to eat fish in Cochin if not Kerala, doesn't exist? And like eating in the hotel you're staying in doesn't seem a bit lazy?

I had some other small cribs, but can't remember, so maybe they're not important. Except for this one BIG crib: where has everyone suddenly got these words 'Keralan' and 'Keralite'? I have very occasionally heard Keralite, but NEVER Keralan. Its always Malayali. I think 'Keralan' sounds awful, and the presumed thinking behind it is worse. Its like its too much effort to explain to Americans that the adjective for people and things from Kerala is Malayali, form the language they speak, Malayalam, so lets just simplify it for them by making the place name into an adjective.

I have only this thing to say to people who think that way: so are you OK with us calling you USAns and USAites??????

Vikram

[BBhasin]

I have only this thing to say to people who think that way: so are you OK with us calling you USAns and USAites??????

Vikram

It's America and most people call us Americans. But you can call us what you like, we will still love you and tolerate your tantrums because you are knowlegeable and a fairly good writer. The only problem is that you know it too! Just kidding, BTW we get your point.

Happy Diwali

Bhasin

[anil]

I had some other small cribs, but can't remember, so maybe they're not important. Except for this one BIG crib: where has everyone suddenly got these words 'Keralan' and 'Keralite'? I have very occasionally heard Keralite, but NEVER Keralan. Its always Malayali. I think 'Keralan' sounds awful, and the presumed thinking behind it is worse. Its like its too much effort to explain to Americans that the adjective for people and things from Kerala is Malayali, form the language they speak, Malayalam, so lets just simplify it for them by making the place name into an adjective.

I have only this thing to say to people who think that way: so are you OK with us calling you USAns and USAites??????

Vikram

I would say "Keralite" is about right - I know that many folks who live and were born there do not speak Malayalam, hence Malayali would be incorrect no ?

You know your post reminds me of a list of characterstics of various linguistics groups sent to me by a desi - Quite amusing, some of it I got it and some went over my head - A sample

      GOANS

      One Goan is Remo Fernandes.

      Two Goans is a Feni distillery.

      Three Goans is a football club.

      Four Goans is an all-night-long beach party.

      MALAYALEES

      One Malayalee is a narial-pani shop.

      Two Malayalees is a boat race.

      Three Malayalees is a Gulf job racket.

      Four Malayalees is an oil slick.

If folks in this sub-group are not offended I might post rest of stuff ........ Only if you'll say so

Edited October 28, 2003 by anil (log)

[FoodMan]

The article was interesting albeit a little boring. It read sort of like a report rather than an exciting food/travel article.

Elie