High Point

[Florida Jim]

It had been awhile since one of our dinners at Greg’s house in High Point, NC.

So on a crisp October day, the day of the first World Series game, we gathered to enjoy the game, each other’s company, beef tenderloin, roasted potatoes, brown buttered endive, salad, cheeses, bread and pate along with a few wines of note:

Whites:

1996 Kistler, Cuvee Cathleen Chardonnay: others enjoyed it; IMO, a poster child for deforestation.

2001 Dom. Thevenot-Le Brun, Bougogne (Pinot Beurot): a light, clean wine with a slightly resinous quality.

1990 Ferret, Pouilly-Fume Cuvee Hors-Classe: honeyed on the nose, rich and dense on the palate with excellent persistence; unlike any other Pouilly I have had. Delicious.

1999 D. Daguineau, Pouilly-Fume, Buisson Renard: speaking of unusual Pouilly, there is just no mistaking the producer when one first smells this wine; petrol, unripe pineapple and that chalky minerality of the region; extremely dense and viscous but not weighty in the mouth, with good cut, intense flavor and sustain. Superb.

Reds:

1996 Druet, Bourgueil Vaumereau: high toned red fruit, violets, herbs and minerals in the nose, quite complex; big and tannic on the palate with purity and focus; drying finish. Needs a decade of sleep.

2000 Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er: not as oaky as I expected and well packed but needing time. Still lovely in the mouth and alluring despite its youth.

1995 Phelps, Insignia (magnum): pretty substantial oak to begin, it diminishes some over time; smooth and almost soft in the mouth but not from lack of structure – rather a fruit sweetness type of thing. Along with the Hermitage, the most ready to drink of the reds this night but has lots of life left.

1994 Abreau, Cab.: less oaky than the Insignia but also less ready to drink. Very focused almost linear on the palate; excellent concentration and structure and just lovely to smell. Needs more time.

1999 Texier, Hermitage: the most integrated and seamless of the reds with very clear syrah, meat, pepper scents and flavors all smoothly incorporated into a wine of texture and grace. Wonderful wine.

1999 Texier, Cote-Rotie VV: nowhere near ready to drink but clearly of its place, stuffed and very well made. Hold

2001 Pride, Syrah: maybe if we’d have tasted this by itself or had it alone with the food but on this night and in this company, forgettable.

1993 Bryant, Cab.: what a pity – this is a wood-dill-milk shake with little to redeem it or even indicate that its variety – processed, homogenized wine product. Yech.

1989 La Conseillante: WOTN for everyone but me (the Hermitage) this was sensational on the nose with multiple layers that rose and fell in intensity; a beautifully textured and structured wine that opened with complexity and nuance against perfectly ripe fruit and harmonious balance. 750 ml was simply not enough.

1985 Heitz, Martha’s Vnyd. Cab.: expecting mint juice was I – wrong, was I. Not as complex or intriguing as the Conseillante but every bit as textured and balanced. Showing little sign of its age and probably in need of another ten years (or more) this is focused and delicious.

I slept through a 98 Chave, rouge.

Oh, by the way, who won?

Best, Jim

[docsconz]

1996 Kistler, Cuvee Cathleen Chardonnay: others enjoyed it; IMO, a poster child for deforestation.

Sounds like an incredible evening!

Kistler to me is oak done right. It is a supporting player that adds nuance without overshadowing the other components of the wine.

[Florida Jim]

Kistler to me is oak done right. It is a supporting player that adds nuance without overshadowing the other components of the wine.

Although I am definitely oak averse and my notes will always reflect that bias, I do think that some cuvees in some years come close to doing it right. This one was not even close - I could not put it in my mouth - overwhelming oak/turpentine.

Best, Jim