Annisa

[yvonne johnson]

Visited Annisa (13 Barrow St (Just off Bleeker) 212-741-6699) for the fourth or fifth time last weekend for dinner. I’m following Anita Lo around —evident I guess in my earlier posts on her cooking. I can’t say I keep tabs on many chefs.

On Saturday, our entire group of six was ahhing and ooohing over the food. There were little things that distracted, but there were little things, in literal sense of small portions, that greatly enhanced the meal.

I started with scallop on radishes that tasted lightly pickled. The scallop (yes, only one) was divine. The amuse: light pastry shell with salmon tartare was equally appealing. The bread—Amy’s white roll—made for a good beginning. The foie gras dumplings in light broth, and snails in ever so thin potato shells had excellent reports.

Next I had the veal dish:  Small piece of lobster, sautéed sweetbreads and veal sitting cozily on a large plate with a wonderful reduction. First the overall rating: This was one of the best main courses I’ve had in months.  It had a little leek underneath and that was it. Now the flaw: the veal was cold on initial presentation. I returned it, and I received two gracious apologies. Two of our friends who also had this dish said their veal was also on the coolish side, but did not feel it necessary to return their dishes. (My husband’s impression is that the kitchen might be on the small side, and they find it hard to serve a table of six. And true, we’ve not had this problem before when we’ve gone in smaller groups.)

On to the real plus in having small portions: you have room for dessert, and I don’t have the name of the pastry chef, but the desserts are very good. (Steve Klc has written about the desirability of keeping room for desserts, but given the large portions in most places, I find it often impossible.) My quince crumble was a deconstruction of the original. On the plate were three things: one small dish had the crumble, the second was a pot of what was described “frozen soufflé” which tasted of cream and maybe crème fresh, and the frozen nature had a nice chew, and third was a small glass (that resembled the shape of the pot) of dessert wine. It was a very clean, Asian-looking presentation and it was good too. My husband had the toffee cake which he described as maybe the best pudding he’s ever had.

As always there were the dainties. Tiny cantaloupe icicles, chocolates made with real mint, and thirdly slithers of crystallized ginger.

With wines, a New Zealand Cab Sauv, and a burgundy, it turned out around $80 per person.

Looking forward to returning yet again.

[Liza]

Thanks, Yvonne, fore reminding me to put Annisa on my list, and for your as always right on descriptions. I'll add that another food friend of mine loves this place and went there recently for a special anniversary. He and wife looked at the menu and then told the server, "We'd love to have whatever the chef is interested in serving us". Server inquired as to allergies or dislikes, of which there were none, and proceeded to serve a marvelous six course meal, full of interesting taste and flavor combinations and differences.

(And for those interested, Annisa is located nearly across the street from the building where Hank Greenberg grew up - there's a placque on it and everything! )

[wingding]

Another thumbs up for Annisa.Dinner last night was lovely-the room is quiet and cozy,and the service was on point.Highlights of the tasting menu were the fois gras soup dumpling,sable and fried tofu in a miso/bonito broth with a little flying fish roe for crunch,some delicious,rare rounds of lamb wrapped in spinach,and the lobster/sweetbread/veal dish.This restaurant is one of the fewer and fewer chef/manger owned places in the city,and I got the feeling that they are really trying to give diners a unique experience.I like to support businesses like this,and will return...

[cabrales]

It has been more than 1.5 years since I last visited Annisa. The prices were quoted as $68 for a 5-course meal and $88 for a 7-course meal. Could members who have visited more recently provide an indication as to whether the course count above included amuses, etc.? In addition, please provide an indication as to the approximate number of dishes from which one can choose (if that is the case) as part of the described meals.

[jordyn]

Cabrales: Amuses are not counted as courses in the tasting menus that you refer to, although last time I went, only one amuse was provided. I have only attempted the five course tasting menu at Annisa, although I am hoping to return and sample the seven course menu sometime soon.

For the five and seven course option, there is no menu to select choices from. However, Anita Lo whips these meals up fairly spontaneously and it is possible to indicate specific preferences prior to the meal. I have found Annisa to be very accomodating in this regard.

In addition to the five and seven course tasting menu options, there is also an a la carte menu. I don't specifically recall the number of options, but I would guess eight to ten appetizers and main courses.

[Edited to improve clarity.]

[jordyn]

I've been stopping into Annisa quite frequently recently--nearly once a week, although sometimes only for dessert. It is a comfortable place where I go if I want to be sure of excellent service, good food and interesting wine. This is a strange oasis in New York where everyone seems to be nice, from the greeting by the matire d' to the last plate picked up by a bus boy as you get ready to head out. These good spirits seem to rub off on the patrons as well. Almost everywhere you look, there are glowing, happy faces.

Of course, the food probably contributes to that contended look as well, and last night, I had my best meal yet at Annisa. Indeed, it was my best meal in New York for quite some time. A brief recap:

1) Amuse. Sadly, the amuse at Annisa, some sort of fish over white bean paste in a pastry shell, ceases to be amusing after the third or fourth time (as you can see, it was the same way back when Yvonne first visited and is still going strong...) This time the fish was salt cod.

Fortunately, the meal got better as it went on. We opted for the five course tasting menu. A seven course tasting menu (which includes a cheese course and one more savory course) is also available.

2) Clam salad. Served in a hollowed-out tomato and over watermelon ice, this dish presented a slight amount of sweetness against a moderate amount of acid from the tomato. Although I thought this dish was fine, the competing textural elements (clams vs tomato vs ice) made it slightly hard to put together coherent bites.

3) Foie gras soup dumplings. Yvonne described these above. Mmm..... A perfect excuse to order a glass of the Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling.

4) Skate. Lightly fried, in a beet emulsion with a drizzle of dijon mustard. As I mentioned in my recent write-up of Blue Hill, beets are not typically a food I enjoy. Mike Anthony's anchovy and beet amuse got me thinking a little bit about that premise, but this dish completely turned me around. The skate itself was a thing of beauty: a small wing, fried to provide a thin layer of crispness at the edge, with gloriously soft meat cut into thin slices. The beet emulsion turned a nice piece of fish into a fantastic dish, lending some sweetness and a slight bitterness while simultaneously giving the plate a dazzling splash of red. A bit of wasabi staged a surprise appearance, providing a bit of heat to counteract any chance the emulsion might become cloying. As Yvonne mentioned, the portions at Annisa are quite small, and I found myself wishing I could order seconds (or thirds!) of this dish.

5) Lamb shank. Shredded, served with mint and oval basil. I was expecting a bit of a let down after the skate, but this dish was excellent as well. Neither the mint nor the basil were prominent notes within the dish, but acted as effective foils to bring out the meatiness of the lamb so that it was not overwhelmed by a pleasant amount of fat. Compared to the rack of lamb offered on the menu, this dish is more flavorful and more satisfying, if slightly less appealing visually.

6) Dessert. My dining companion and I were served separate desserts.

She: Chocolate bread pudding with banana puree. Now that I can't get Sam Mason's carrot cake at Atlas, this is the best dessert that I know how to buy. The chocolate is deeply flavored, slightly dense, and just sweet enough to satisfy on its own merits. The banana puree is a light froth with a mild banana flavor, a perfect complement to the chocolate in almost every sense. I stole the plate halfway through dessert because I needed some.

Me: Blueberries in a lemon sauce. This was straightforward, simple, and quite good. A gooey, lemony syrup with perhaps a slight hint of creaminess and nice, perfectly ripened blueberries. Accompanied by light, buttery madelines.

[Hank]

We went to Annisa for only the second time on Thursday evening and had a second outstanding dinner. Annisa was recommended to us quite a while ago and can only say that it was pure stupidity that we did not try it sooner but, we shall remedy that quickly. This is definitely a destination restaurant and I recommend it highly. Already have res for end of next week.

[cabrales]

While I am ostensibly on a diet, I had dinner with a very good friend from out of town at Annisa last night. We secured last minute reservations, and the dining room did not appear to be full. I found the meal good-minus-to-good, with one very good dish, but too much aggressiveness for my subjective tastes in certain other dishes.

As background, Annisa used to be a restaurant I appreciated quite a bit in NY. I don't know if I have changed in the two years I have not visited, or if the restaurant has changed. Perhaps the former. I liked the restaurant's cuisine, but also its female chef and maitre d', and the women producer wine list (except for sakes). The decor had a minimalism to it that I also liked.

We ordered the 5-course tasting menu. The restaurant is generally receptive to including dishes from the a la carte menu that a diner specifies as being particularly interesting. Apparently, the only item on the current menu that cannot be included in a tasting menu is the chicken with white truffles (query whether frozen or otherwise not fresh) and pig's feet. The meal began with a nice amuse -- a single escargot and celeryroot puree, all lodged inside a mini thin pastry cup. The snail was buttery and conveyed garlic, which was nice against the base of celeryroot tastes.

(1) Beef Negimaki in Broth with Bone Marrow. This dish featured, as the reference to negimaki suggested, several thin slices of beef curled into a small roll-like stub item. The beef was raw, but became cooked from the ox tail-based broth that was poured over it at the table. Inside the little beef "roll" was, appropriately, shiso leaves and there was apparently also wasabi that was not detectable. The beef was alright, and the broth was appropriate, but I did not particularly like this dish. The bone marrow was appropriate, being represented by two or three little, almost further softened (by the liquid) masses inside the bouillon. There was a grainy, carbohydrate substance at the bottom of the broth -- I could not identify it. Overall, an average dish.

(2) Sauteed Foie Gras with Soup Dumplings and Jicama. This was a dish I requested, but it did not seem to me to be as delicious as I remembered. The foie gras piece on top of the single large, crescent-shaped dumpling was nice. The dumpling, which can be eaten either with chopsticks/Asian ceramic spoon or with fork/other utensil, did contain a flavorful mixture of chicken stock, foie gras mousse and very limited hints of jicama inside. However, I found the skin of the dumpling a bit thicker than I remembered, and that detracted from the dish slightly. Still, a nice pairing with slivers of raw spring onions on top of the dumpling and reduced balsamic vinegar below it. A good dish, although it disappointed me slightly in view of my expectations.

(3) Ragout of Lobster and Steamers with Corn, Chanterelles and Tarragon. This dish was very good (by US standards), and I would recommend it to members who like lobster and who visit Annisa. The lobsters included were the flesh of very small lobsters, and there were two small halves. The flesh was flavorful and gentle, and the lobster had been poached. The deshelled steamer-type clams added a bit of elasticity, and the corn was a nice base. The dominant sensation of the dish was the saucing -- described as a tomato-based oil (although the tomato tastes were not evident). The saucing was a thin, non-greasy oil/jus that was very reminiscent of the sea -- fishy in a wonderful way. The saucing had tiny specks of coraille inside that were helpful.

(4) Grilled Lamb Tenderloins with Golden Raisins and Onion Pancake. This dish was average-to-average-minus because the aroma of a pureed spinach cake that had been flavored with cardamom, tumeric, cumin, etc. was very dominant. It invaded the lamb, which was appropriately prepared and was accompanied by a nice thin lamb jus. Also, this dish suffered from the unattractive nature of the onion pancake, which I imagine is a take on the scallion pancakes in Shanghainese cuisine, just like the foie gras dumpling is a take on Shanghainese soup dumplings.

(5) 1/2 Terrine of Sweetbreads, Lobster and Chicken Liver with Tokaj Gelee. This was not part of the 5-course (4 savory courses) tasting menu, but separately ordered by us at the end. The lobster in the terrine-like presentation was wonderfully flavorful, and nicely mixed with the "smooshiness" and intensity of manipulated chicken liver. The sweetbreads were also in the terrine, but took a backseat role in this dish. Nice combination of tastes, particularly when combined with the sweetness of the small cubes of Tokaj gelee. Apparently, this is not the Hungarian or Austrian dessert wine, but one from Australia. One weakess in the dish was the inclusion of an unusual variation of watercress, whose bitterness and saltiness were not appropriate to the dish. However, the watercress was easily excluded from my sampling.

(6) Blueberry and Lemon Terrine with Lemon Verbena. A nice dessert. Inside a white oval container with a lid were, from the top of the composition, (a) lemon verbena gelee, (b) fresh, sweet blueberries, and © lemon curd that was not tart, but mutedly sweet. A nice combination. Next to the container was a row of very small madelaines containing poppyseed, and with some icing sugar on top of them and some type of somewhat tart lemon sauce underneath. The flour used for the madelaines did not produce appealing madelaines. My dining companion had a chocolate dessert that included banana mousse -- a very interesting whipped cream like texture for the mousse.

Mignardises were (1) a tiny popsicle of blackberry (or a similar berry), (2) candied ginger (warm) -- a julienne, and (3) frozen mint chocolate item. The interesting aspect was the sandwiching of a warm item by two rather cold items within the mignardises.

We drank Chateau Faugeres, St Emilion 1999 ($50-60). The total bill, with tip, was around $270. We visited the extremely small kitchen, in which all the cuisiniers that night were women (the plongeur was a man). The sous-chef to Anita Lo is a woman. Unfortunately, Ms Lo was not in attendance.

After dinner, we proceeded to Bubble Lounge. We drank Veuve Cliquot Grande Dame 1993 ($30 for full tasting glass) and Jacques Selosses Blanc de Blancs ($11-12). A much better selection of champagne by the glass (e.g., Perrier Joet Blason de France, spelling or name, at $30; "R" de Ruinart at under $15; Tattinger's Comte de Champagne at $30) than Flute. Also, a nicer environment than the Flute closest to Times Square, which is too dimly lit.

[yvonne johnson]

Annisa, 13 Barrow St (Just off Bleeker) 212-741-6699

Last week-end G. and I placed ourselves in Anita Lo’s hands and let her make us a tasting menu ($68). Very, very enjoyable.

Amuse: beets, flying fish roe and wasabi inside tiny pastry shell.

1. Scallop ceviche with caviar and lobster tamale. This was first rate. Visually pretty with the combination of scallop and caviar in the centre and the green tamale around it. Interesting layers of flavors and textures—the pop of the caviar.

2. Striped bass on a bed of pureed potatoes with truffle and mushroom sauce. A very nice piece of fish with crispy skin, and a dish that suits a mushroom lover (my husband).

3. A very large ravioli of sweetbreads with a truffle and red wine reduction. This was fantastic—Lo is very able with sweetbreads. My only quibble was that it was a little similar, sauce-wise, to the preceding course.

4. Seared duck breast. With this came fried bread salad with giblets on top of which was a fried quail egg. This was a really creative combination, the crunchiness of the fried bread paired so well with the rest.

5. Chocolate cake and warm, light hazelnut sponge, both with cream. I was getting full by this time and couldn’t really do them justice.

The signature petit fours: tiny pineapple lollipops, a few strips of crystallized ginger, and mint chocolates (with real mint).

(Small point: we’ve been to Annisa around eight or nine times and the amuse are always in the little shells, and although I think the petit fours are lovely they have not changed in a long while. Maybe time for some variation.)

Very nice bottle of Tokay Pinot Gris, Alsace, Domaine Weinbach, 2000 ($82) which stood up well to most of the courses, though we maybe regretted not having a red with a couple of the courses.

Service, as always, professional and relaxed.

Why Annisa doesn’t get 3 NYT stars beats me. G. thinks it may be because (relying solely on women winemakers) they do not offer a wide range of wines, and this might count against the restaurant. Still…

Threads from last year and year before

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...=2831&hl=annisa

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...&f=4&t=4214&hl=

Edit: to give full details of wine which was very good

Edited March 22, 2003 by yvonne johnson (log)

[lxt]

When elegance is defined as “less is more,” leaving fashionable and formless, elaborate and pompous exempted from the execution; when “a designer knows he has achieved perfection not when there is nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away” (Antoine de Saint-Exupéry), then can an appreciation for quality be attained easing the burdens of life through light colors, fewer furnishings, thoughtfully placed elements and understated colors and textures without being overbearing or insistent. What struck me at Annisa was that the décor was a perfect model of economy, clarity of presentation, simplicity and elegance: Off-white walls; coral velvet banquettes and matching chairs; one rectangular, narrow frosted window in the back of the room; and a grand vase with long white-flowered branches in the front. Nothing to add and nothing to take away.

We were seated at the back of the room at a table with a banquette on one side and a chair on the other. A banquette seat permitted a wide view of the room, and a chair would force a diner to face the wall. I was kindly shown to the privileged banquette seat and was contemplating enjoying the meal, observing the room, and taking pleasure in the company. However, I had to give up my seat by suggesting it to my escort after observing him rotating his head desperately, presumably in an attempt to preserve a sense of control over the environment, and a clear disappointment in his own seat placement. Considering that I’ve witnessed similar behavior from several of my male dining companions, I realized that the only possibility to save the evening was to give up my seat. When all was said and done, I was facing the wall, the window, him, and my plate with excitement and a sense of wonder in an expectation of the 5-course tasting with matching wines.

Ceviche of Tilefish with Fig, Anchovy and Pistachio

Tender morsels of flat, white tilefish saturated with olive oil, with bits of pistachio and oily fig, topped with frisée salad curls were arranged on the plate to fill the rectangular pattern of balsamic vinegar that added a nice dark-brown color contrast to the dish. The firm white flesh lacked fat, but the fibers were softened by the (?) vinegar marinade. The Balsamic vinegar, so well resonating with the sweetness of figs, added yet another level of acidity, and the earthy pistachios gave the fish an agreeable balance.

The fish was sprinkled with coarse grains of fleur de sel. With the already high level of acidity and saltiness in the dish, I wouldn’t have thought that extra salt would be necessary, but the acidity contrasted with the grains of salt in such a way that it almost tasted neutral adding only a pleasant crunch and even freshness. This appetizer wasn’t subtle, but it presented an interesting contrast and combination of acidity, saltiness and sweetness.

The wine served was Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio 1991, Colli Orientali del Friuli.

Seared Foie Gras with Soup Dumplings and Jicama

This dish was certainly the star of the dinner. An abstract stroke of a Chinese black and balsamic thick vinegar reduction painted on a rectangular plate was sealed by a semicircular dumpling with enough transparency to reveal a dark-brown veal stock through its medium-thick skin. A rectangular piece of a seared foie gras with a dark-brown exterior matching in color the balsamic reduction topped the dumpling. I expected the soup to be very hot, but it was of a pleasant room temperature, and as I took a tiny nibble out of the top of the dumpling, the intense flavor of the veal stock enriched by the stuffed, partially melted foie gras flowed to the spoon and then to my mouth. The buttery and delicate texture of the remaining pieces of the firmer foie gras was contrasted by the fleshy tiny cubes of crunchy Jicama, gently adding just a slightly sweet flavor to it. It was a wonderful combination.

I spent my childhood watching my bubby make dumplings – the glory of her technique never stopped surprising me in how well she was able to predict the right dough thickness for different fillings so that the wrap would be strong enough not to break under the weight of the filling, but still be as delicate as possible to let the other ingredients shine. I thought that the dumpling wrap in the Annisa dish was a bit too thick. It didn’t overshadow the other components since they produced a pretty intense flavor, but it was far from being thin and translucent.

The sautéed piece of foie gras accompanying the dumpling had a crispy and savory dark golden-brown crust providing a nice firmness and almost a crunch to the raw interior. It was interesting to note the level of sophistication applied to the simple but delicious concept of a soup dumpling.

The matching wine was Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 2001, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt.

Butter Poached Wild Salmon with Brussels Sprouts and Chestnuts

A poached filet of salmon in an intensely bright-green leek purée enriched with lobster broth was topped with shredded, barely cooked leaves of Brussels sprouts echoing the sauce in color. Two halves of a Brussels sprout ”head” and one simmered(?) soft and sweet chestnut “brain” were positioned on each side of the salmon, and a long, thin straw of smoked salmon skin was swinging on top of the edifice. The smoked skin with its concentrated salmon flavor was an interesting contrast to the mild-tasting salmon flesh though I didn’t find it particularly pleasing. The leek purée was not intense and the crunchy Brussels sprouts offset the fattiness of the slightly overdone salmon well, but both of us seemed to conclude that given a choice, this dish wouldn’t have been on our list.

The wine served was Patricia Green Cellars Chardonnay 2001, Yamhill County, Oregon.

Crispy Skinned Breast of Duck with Piquillo Peppers and “Migas”

Five tender and moist medallions of the perfectly rare duck breast girded with crispy and almost crusty skin in a small quantity of a sweet, thin wine sauce reduction were padded with fresh baby spinach salad. Cubes of oily fried breadcrumbs, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, with the distinctive taste of garlic and bits of the roasted red pepper served as a bed for an adorable and tiny quail egg prepared sunny side up and were placed aside the meat arrangement. The dish had an element of rusticity and elegance at the same time and was enjoyable.

We drank Collioure 1998, Domaine La Tour Vieille, Roussillon.

Yogurt Panna Cotta with Chestnuts

A creamy and a light pure-white custard was crowned with a tight ball of a thinly shaved phyllo pastry and accentuated by strokes of the dark brown chestnut(?) sauce sprinkled with grains of caramelized sugar. It was an average dessert.

We received warm and attentive service from Annisa’s staff. Our waiter revealed that the excellent French bread was sourced from Amy’s.

Conclusion:

The level of creativity of the dishes was engaging visually and sensually. Little clever touches whether in the simple arrangement on the plate or more complicated dish implementation provoked our appreciation and an involuntary thought of sophistication that only a woman can deliver with such grace. Our overall impression was positive. However, both of us thought that though each dish was pleasing, the appetizers on the suggested prix-fixe menu were more appealing, that the desserts were weak, and that each dish was satisfying but aside from the Seared Foie Gras with Soup Dumplings wasn’t exceptional. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our dinner and will certainly return.

Edited May 3, 2003 by lxt (log)

[jeunefilleparis]

Last sunday night, wanting a drink in a non bar bar,I went to Annisa. The gentleman at the bar was a doll. I had a pink lemonade and if I had had 2 more,i wouldve been rolling back from Barrow to Macdougal. He also was testing a new drink they have, a new take on a Pink slipper, was that the name,so he gave me that one on the house. i stole a glance at the menu and it looked as good as always, i haven t been in a 1.5 yrs, I need to go back to taste their spring/summer menu!

[SobaAddict70]

I have a rule regarding fusion food -- and that is that I try my hardest NOT to eat out at a place where fusion rules the roost. The thing that I have regarding fusion cuisine is one where a profusion of ingredients overwhelms the plate and threatens to mask what I'm eating into a hodgepodge slurry of tastes and textures. That said, I broke my rule with respect to tonight's dinner at Annisa with two other eGulleteers. This is a restaurant that I would heartily recommend to anyone who approaches fusion cuisine with the same bias that I have. That the food works well within the flavor parameters that Anita Lo sets up is just icing on a very well made and constructed cake.

Here, for the benefit of you, Gentle Reader, eGluttoneers and guests all, is the summer 2003 menu for Annisa (prices are in parentheses):

Appetizers

Barbecue Squid with Watermelon, Cucumber and Pandanus (13)

Zucchini Pancake with Squash and Korean Spices (14)

Grilled Eggplant with Yogurt and Lentils (12 as app./25 as vegetarian entree)

Sashimi Fluke with Plums and Pickled Red Onion (15)

Soft Shelled Crab with Singapore Chili Sauce (16)

Field Green Salad with Fresh Herbs (9)

Tea Smoked Trout with Green Soybeans and Crispy Soy Milk Skin (15)

Seared Foie Gras with Soup Dumplings and Jicama (16) [i had this as an appetizer]

Entrees

Miso Marinated Sable with Crispy Silken Tofu in Bonito Broth (27)

Sauteed Filet of Skate with Avocado, Chiles and Iroquois Hominy (25)

Salt Broiled Spanish Mackerel with Green Grapes and Spicy Cod Roe (24)

Lobster with Steamer Clams, Artichokes and Almonds (29)

Pan Roasted Farm Chicken with Sherry, White Truffles and Pig Feet (23)

Boneless Spareribs Stuffed with Shrimp, Shrimp Roe Sauce (26) [this was my entree]

Saddle of Rabbit with Bacon, Mustard Greens and Creamed Corn (28)

Grilled Dry Aged Shell Steak with Fourme D'Ambert and Pear Mustard (28)

Chef's Five Course Tasting Menu (68)

Chef's Seven Course Tasting Menu (88)

Dessert Menu

All desserts $8 unless otherwise noted:

Crispy Sesame Mochi with Coconut and Pineapple Dipping Sauces

Yogurt Panna Cotta with Dates and Sweet Sherry

Apple Tart with Caramel Sauce and Vanilla Ice Cream

Warm Carrot Macadamia Nut Cake with Creme Fraiche

Chocolate Biscuit Pudding with Banana Mousse [this was my dessert]

Selection of Ice Creams and Sorbet

Selection of Cheeses (18)

None of the offerings at Annisa are as simple as the menus make them out to be. True, there is a profusion of elements on the plate, but the plates are elegantly constructed with a number of different components that not only work well together but actually enable one to taste exactly what they're eating. For instance, the spareribs came with "sushi rolls" of leeks and sauteed mushrooms wrapped in a sort of gossamer dumpling skin, three of which garnished the spareribs which sat in a thin sheen of sauce. Actually, if I had a criticism, it would be that the sauce was a bit too salty, probably due to a bit too much shrimp roe whisked into it.

The biscuit pudding was a MOIST chocolate cake that sat next to faintly sweetened espresso/chocolate powder surrounded by some chocolate sauce; opposite was a cloud of banana mousse, and connecting the two was a tuile of oven-dried banana. Preceding the meal was an amuse bouche consisting of a trio of pastry shells enclosing country pate which had been topped with mustard; petits fours were tamarind popsicles, slivered candied ginger and mint/chocolate capsules.

I'll let folks input with their impressions of the room and the food, as well as the wine selection and wine list. From what I saw, Annisa's wine list is quite extensive, with an extensive selection of mostly white wines, some reds and a few sakes. Their dessert potables ranged from tawny port to ice wine to muscatel, and of course the obligatory teas -- from mint infusion to green tea with barley.

This is definitely on my list of "return visits".

Soba

Edited July 19, 2003 by SobaAddict70 (log)

[rich]

Had dinner at Annisa last evening. Probably one of the five best meals ever. Began with a Sierra Nevada at the bar with hard boiled, 100-day-old brined eggs (1 duck, 1 chicken). They were great - salty and briny, just needed a twist of black pepper.

Thoroughly enjoyed the stuffed squash blossoms with goat cheese. Others at the table had the fois gras with Singapore dumplings and the Tuna Carpaccio - both were extraordinary.

The main course entrees were the Smoked Rack of Lamb (and yes it was a rack) which abounded with complex and layered flavors; the Marisha (sp?), a tuna-flavored fish and the grilled Sea Bass. Both of the fish were cooked perfectly and were prepared on a level superior to Le Bernadin. The other entry was a roast chicken with a pig's feet stuffing - outstanding.

We shared the cheese course for dessert - six examples from around the world - very nice.

I ordered a bottle of Kritt Pinot Blanc and Byington Cabernet Sauvignon. Both went well with their respective food choices.

Oh yes, the amuse was a brandade in small wafer cup - quite enjoyable.

A made a decision based on last evening's meal - for the next 12 months I will only eat at restaurants where the chef is female. For a long time I've been thinking about this, but now it will happen. Women are so much more creative in the kitchen than men.

Males may know how to broil steaks and make foam, but when it comes to creativity, there's not one that can match the best female chefs.

[Sethro]

A made a decision based on last evening's meal - for the next 12 months I will only eat at restaurants where the chef is female. For a long time I've been thinking about this, but now it will happen. Women are so much more creative in the kitchen than men.

Males may know how to broil steaks and make foam, but when it comes to creativity, there's not one that can match the best female chefs.

←

That's...a pretty nutty conclusion.

[Bux]

. . . .  Women are so much more creative in the kitchen than men.

Males may know how to broil steaks and make foam, but when it comes to creativity, there's not one that can match the best female chefs.

←

At least we're not going to be fighting over reservations for a while. The one thing I will note is that there are far fewer women in the business than men and that the percentage of men who rise to the top is greater. That's in no way particularly reflective of women's abillities to cook or be creative. On the whole, I'd have to say I don't find a genetic link between gender and the ability to cook or be creative, although there are a number of cultural aspects that come into play and which few of us can ignore completely. I have eaten very well on the food from kitchens run by women, but off hand, I can't think of many woman chefs in NY whose restaurant I would declare one of the best from personal experience. I don't eat a lot of steak in restaurants. I don't see all that much foam either, but when I see it, it's well used. Let's just assume I lead a sheltered life. Nevertheless, I wonder who else you'd put up there in a group with Daniel Boulud, Dan Barber, Eric Ripert, Wyllie Dufresne and a host of others I think have more than enough creativity and the talent to pull off the creativity. Bear in mind that I'm not interested in creativity if there's not the basic ability to cook and head up a kitchen staff necessary to provided excellence on a constent basis.

[rich]

. . . .  Women are so much more creative in the kitchen than men.

Males may know how to broil steaks and make foam, but when it comes to creativity, there's not one that can match the best female chefs.

←

At least we're not going to be fighting over reservations for a while. The one thing I will note is that there are far fewer women in the business than men and that the percentage of men who rise to the top is greater. That's in no way particularly reflective of women's abillities to cook or be creative. On the whole, I'd have to say I don't find a genetic link between gender and the ability to cook or be creative, although there are a number of cultural aspects that come into play and which few of us can ignore completely. I have eaten very well on the food from kitchens run by women, but off hand, I can't think of many woman chefs in NY whose restaurant I would declare one of the best from personal experience. I don't eat a lot of steak in restaurants. I don't see all that much foam either, but when I see it, it's well used. Let's just assume I lead a sheltered life. Nevertheless, I wonder who else you'd put up there in a group with Daniel Boulud, Dan Barber, Eric Ripert, Wyllie Dufresne and a host of others I think have more than enough creativity and the talent to pull off the creativity. Bear in mind that I'm not interested in creativity if there's not the basic ability to cook and head up a kitchen staff necessary to provided excellence on a constent basis.

←

I don't know yet - hence the experiment.

Bux, I'm not saying men are bad chefs or lack total creativity (afterall I'm part of that group), but it seems to me that once they have established themselves, they rely on old standbys with minor variations.

In my experience, women chefs (as well as in other professions - but that's not a discussion for here) tend to be more adverturesome and think out of the box on a more regular basis.

In any event, since I've tried most of the places in NYC that I really want, I'll give this experiment a year. At the very least it should prove interesting and fun - a diversion if you will.

Hey maybe it's just me because I like women so much. Hell, I even married one.

Just another note - I've noticed the same thing with female winemakers, but I have too much wine at home (made by men) to attempt the same thing.

[iheartoffal]

I think that was quite a conjectural statement. Talent and creativity are qualities you either have, or you don't. This isn't a gender issue.

Edited July 16, 2005 by iheartoffal (log)

[oakapple]

I took a friend to Annisa on Friday night for her 40th birthday. It's a sweet-looking room. We were seated side-by-side on a banquette, which was an intimate twist on the usual arrangement.

The reviews upthread are extremely detailed, and there's not a whole lot I can add. The Seared Foie Gras with Soup Dumplings and Jicama appetizer has been on the menu from the beginning. William Grimes loved the dish when he awarded two stars, and I guess the restaurant doesn't want to fiddle with success. Then again, when an appetizer is this good, why should they?

For the main dish, I tried the Miso Marinated Sable with Crispy Silken Tofu in Bonito Broth, another dish Grimes loved. I suppose I should have trusted my instincts, as I've never been a tofu lover. The dish was beautifully prepared, but somehow it just didn't seem like tofu and sable go together. This item, like the foie gras, has been on the menu from the beginning, so I must be in the minority.

Mind you, we had a wonderful time, especially my friend, and I can see why Annisa has garnered so many plaudits. In my book, it certainly ranks at the high end of two stars.

[peter_nyc]

For the main dish, I tried the Miso Marinated Sable with Crispy Silken Tofu in Bonito Broth, another dish Grimes loved. I suppose I should have trusted my instincts, as I've never been a tofu lover. The dish was beautifully prepared, but somehow it just didn't seem like tofu and sable go together. This item, like the foie gras, has been on the menu from the beginning, so I must be in the minority.

←

I was also there this past Friday night and had the 7-course tasting menu which included the sable and tofu dish--I thought it to be one of the most enjoyable dishes I've ever had. The simplicity of the tofu really highlighted the sable's flavor. Anything less subtle would have detracted from the intrinsic qualities of the fish, and wow was it cooked to perfection. The tofu was panko-crusted and quickly fried before being partially submerged in the flavorful bonito broth, adding wonderful yet subtle (the theme of this dish) texture.

Another standout dish was the duck served with wheatberry salad. Do not hesitate on this one.

This restaurant really amazed me although the wine pairings were not wonderful. I should also mention that both of the two desserts I sampled, a chocolate cake and a meyer lemon "bread pudding", were absolutely fantastic. I was thoroughly impressed to learn that Anita does her own desserts.

[rich]

This restaurant really amazed me although the wine pairings were not wonderful.  I should also mention that both of the two desserts I sampled, a chocolate cake and a meyer lemon "bread pudding", were absolutely fantastic.  I was thoroughly impressed to learn that Anita does her own desserts.

←

It is an amazing restaurant. I've only tried wine pairings a few times over the years and have never been overwhelmed at any place, at any price point. I've always done better choosing a half-bottle of white (if available) and a full bottle of red. My taste - my choices. It seems to work better.

Edited September 14, 2005 by rich (log)

[Bond Girl]

I've never been to Annisa, but is it true that regulars never have the same meal twice there?

[rich]

I've never been to Annisa, but is it true that regulars never have the same meal twice there?

←

I'm irregular but I never had the same meal twice - ever.

[Bond Girl]

Went to Annisa for desserts yesterday, and tried every dessert on the menu. Loved the hot mochi balls.

[greensNbeans]

Went to Annisa for desserts yesterday, and tried every dessert on the menu. Loved the hot mochi balls.

←

How big is her staff? Is she the only one in the kitchen?

[Bond Girl]

Went to Annisa for desserts yesterday, and tried every dessert on the menu. Loved the hot mochi balls.

←

How big is her staff? Is she the only one in the kitchen?

←

Stayed out of the kitchen, will ask my dining companions on kitchen staff size. But, food was coming out while she was chatting with us at the bar, so there must be a decent size staff back there.