DIGEST: The Toronto Star

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Toronto Star – May 18, 2005

Dining out at Shaw Festival

The play's not the only thing at the Shaw Festival in Niagara-on-the-Lake

Star theatre critic turns the spotlight on town's restaurants and snack bars

Besides its proximity to the second-largest repertory theatre in North America, there's an atmosphere of artifice about the town — almost as though you've wandered into some sort of upscale Disney World for adults.

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Niagara-on-the-Lake dining guide

The Shaw Festival runs until Nov. 27. Details are at 1-800-511-SHAW (7429) or http://www.shawfest.com.

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Brews, twee for two

Judy Gerstel reviews The Thistle Inn.

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Mooning over cafe

Christian Cotroneo discusses lunch at Grapefruit Moon.

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When Indian is easy

Jennifer Bain gives three starts to the softcover version of Foolproof Indian Cookery by Madhur Jaffrey.

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From Our Test Kitchen

Recipes:

* Blackberry Corn Muffins

* Maple Fig Bars

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Toronto Star – May 25, 2005

Grouper dynamics

Hamour, better known here as grouper, is a versatile addition to everything from soups to kebabs

Toronto cookbook author and recipe developer Habeeb Salloum shares stories and Dubai-inspired recipes for this fish.

I have always looked forward to hamour and other fish dishes in this evolving state in the United Arab Emirates. About 150 nationalities live and work here. They added spices and other flavours to the once basic fish dishes of the Gulf region. They have, in fact, created a fish cuisine.

Recipes:

* Samak Maqli (Fried Fish)

* Shawrabat Samak (Fish Soup)

* Makbous Samak (Fish with Lentils and Rice)

* Tikat Hamour (Grilled Fish Kabab)

* Samak Aeaish (Fish and Rice)

* Salonah (Fish in Tomato Sauce)

* Hamour Mahshi (Stuffed Grouper)

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Where foodies gather in June

The city's most extravagant food fundraiser, Toronto Taste, turns 15 this year. On the menu: veal with maple-chipotle glaze, scallop ceviche on pappadums, tea-smoked duck breast, raspberry lobster gazpacho, and much more.

Recipe:

* Peking-Style Spit-Roasted Duck

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A case of sour grapes

Wine writer Gordon Stimmell reviews the wine documentary, Mondovino.

Mondovino is not a charmer like Sideways, with its flawed but likeable characters.

Sommelier and filmmaker Jonathan Nossiter spent four years circling the globe, obsessively filming winemakers and owners at their wineries, homes and vineyards. These people range from the aristocracy, such as the Frescobaldis and Antinoris of Tuscany and the Mondavis of California, to virtually unknown vine owners in Brazil and Argentina and Sardinia. 

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Terra truly a north star

Judy Gerstel reviews Terra Restaurant.

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A burning desire to eat well

Christian Cotroneo discusses lunch at Freshwood Grill.

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Toronto Star – June 1, 2005

Small is beautiful

Now that Molson has bought Creemore, will it cheapen one of Canada's microbrewing gems?

The No. 1 microbrew spot is now up for grabs and Steam Whistle is heir apparent

Creemore, the dominant microbrewery in the province for the past decade, the one that served as the role model for the rest, was gone — right when micros are teaming up with the belief that they're poised to make some of their biggest gains ever against beer giants Molson and Labatt.

Forget the Creemore babes

Molson to maintain low-key advertising campaign

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Summer reds ready to sip

Today we have reds in three styles, all totally delicious, for different occasions and meals, from a bargain basement level sipper to the richest newcomer for under $20.

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Sweet potato fries debut at new chain

It couldn't have happened to a nicer tuber. Sweet potatoes are being cut into fries and served at Pizza Pizza's new family eatery, Chicken Chicken.

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Chefs of cottage country

Jennifer Bain spoke with Tawfik Shehata, chef of Taboo Resort, Golf & Conference Centre.

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Three ways to enjoy your greens

Recipes:

* Hoisin Roasted Green Beans

* Bacon Dill Peas

* Panko-Roasted Asparagus

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Surprise! Kosher goes upscale

Judy Gerstel reviews Gladstone's Wine Bar & Grill.

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Toronto Star – June 8, 2005

Guide to farmers' markets

Our second annual guide tells you where to shop in Ontario this season

It's time to hit your favourite farmers' market. Don't forget to nab your copy of Harvest Ontario, which lists 900 farmers' markets, pick-your-own-farms and roadside markets, at Home Hardware. The 60,000 copies are snapped up within 10 days, but you can read it online at http://www.harvestontario.com. 

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There's no place quite like Rhone

Gordon Stimmell writes about the 13th annual Hospice du Rhone fine wine festival.

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Dark secrets

Spicy with undertones of fruit. An elegant yet wild taste. Robust. Intense and tangy. Fresh and exotic. Lingers pleasantly on the palate. Surprise! These are not descriptions of wine, but of chocolate.

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Prix fixe but food varies

Judy Gerstel reviews Brasserie Royan.

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Saloon slips in a few surprises

Christian Cotroneo reviews Shoxs Sports Saloon.

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Once upon a Calendar

In the early '80s, my friends tended to drop into my little store-top Annex apartment at lunchtime. So I tore out a page from the Milk Calendar, the one with the mushroom and leek soup. The dish became a standby, though I did embellish it with crumbled blue cheese that would melt into a silky yet pungent finishing touch. 

Recipes:

* Mushroom & Leek Soup

* Pizza Quiche

* Mocha Banana Trifle

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Toronto Star – June 15, 2005

New school district

Real world is the classroom for fresh batch of chefs in Prince Edward County Restaurateurs in the tourist spot are desperate for staff

The idea for the Prince Edward County Chefs School was announced at the end of February, he says, at a meeting of the chamber of commerce. On April 11, students stepped into their first class. Meanwhile, executive director Michael Hoy had just two weeks to get ready after being called about the job.

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Puck aims for the middle

Now banish these upscale images; the Wolfgang we're interested in is a champion of middle-of-the-road dining. That's why he's in this tourist town for a one-day media blitz for Wolfgang Puck Grand Café, his global brand's latest attempt at breaking into Canada.

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Saucy Lady wins an award

Congratulations to Toronto Star food editor Jennifer Bain, winner of a 2005 Association of Food Journalists award for food column writing.

Her columns, published in 2004 as the "Saucy Lady," explored gamja-tang (pork bone soup) in Koreatown, Indian paneer and tandoori pizzas in Mississauga, and kebabs from a halal supermarket/butcher shop in Scarborough.

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Wine for the global village

The globalization of wine is our theme this week, sparked by some terrific value wines. 

Gordon Stimmell reviews two such wines.

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Condiment hoarders must beware of spoilage

If you're one of those people hanging on to sauces, spreads and pickles older than your children, the Calgary-based Food Safety Information Society has eye-opening information. Here are some examples it gives of maximum storage periods for opened jars and bottles.

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Fish dish rules

Judy Gerstel reviews Cuisine of India in North York.

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Allen's patio is a charmer

Christian Cotroneo discusses lunch at Allen’s restaurant in Danforth.

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Toronto Star – June 22, 2005

Building an empire

The new way of the wine world is global consolidation. No one is immune. When giant Constellation Brands swallowed Robert Mondavi of California last year, few were surprised. But while some pundits see this process as alarming, so far it has been relatively benign.

Gordon Stimmell also describes several wines made outside of Ontario.

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What's in store

A listing of new products, including Sprite ReMix Aruba Jam, Becel Topping & Cooking Spray, Gay Lea's Spreadable Butter Blend, and Häagen-Dazs' banana ice cream.

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Scaramouche's silver anniversary

The classic eatery off Avenue Rd. is celebrating its 25th anniversary with tasting menus featuring some old favourites. The $72 prix fixe menus will rotate throughout July and August. Recently, we sampled a menu including sea scallops in a lively puddle of preserved lemon, chive and ginger beurre blanc, salmon surprisingly but beautifully mated with horseradish white wine sauce, and coconut cream pie with white and dark chocolate accents. 

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Restaurant happenings

What’s going on at several local restaurants, including one that is closing for the summer.

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Welcome to Korea

Judy Gerstel reviews Sariwon in Thornhill.

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Get thee to an eatery

This charming city two hours away from Toronto has been known internationally for the glories of its theatre festival for 53 years. But in the past few decades, it has built up an equal reputation as a destination where you can enjoy some of the most sophisticated dining on the continent.

Stratford dining

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Not running on empty

It's brunch time. And a breathless horde of Toronto runners is taking the scenic route.

Every weekend, these friends stretch their jogging route a little farther, exploring a different cranny of the city, and making sure a fresh restaurant awaits them at the finish line.

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Tex-Mex, the `lovable ugly duckling'

Jennifer Bain reviews The Tex-Mex Cookbook: A History in Recipes and Photos.

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Toronto Star – June 29, 2005

Beaver tales

Game to try anything, we head north for a cookout starring the animal that is a Canadian emblem

Stewart is a councillor for the Municipality of Northern Bruce Peninsula, where there's a bounty on the beaver. Imagine that — our national animal is a pest. Big, brown and busy, the beaver is the largest rodent in North America. But the industriousness so admired by Canadians has its downside. Some beavers wreak havoc with farm waterways; others view roadside drainage culverts as prefab homes.

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`Rolls-Royce of paprika'

An essential ingredient in Spanish paellas and chorizo sausages, smoked paprika is now being wielded by North American restaurant chefs, television chefs and home cooks looking to boost the flavour of everything from stews to salads.

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Steak out on the bay

Judy Gerstel reviews Top of the Cove in Port Severn.

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Subterranean soup spot is a hit

Christian Cotroneao reviews Soup Nutsy in Toronto.

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Renée's `baby' turns 20

Renée's Gourmet started in May, 1985, with four dressings whipped up in her kitchen: caesar, blue cheese, Greek feta and poppyseed. Sold in jars in greengrocers and butcher shops, they were made with fresh ingredients, free of preservatives and MSG, and had to be kept refrigerated. "This was unheard of in the salad dressing business," Renée says.

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Toronto Star – July 6, 2005

In my backyard

Potlucks are a time-honoured tradition for many Canadians, but not necessarily newcomers

Students training to be ESL teachers find potluck suppers to be unsettling

"People from other countries think it's very rude," says the veteran teacher. "Why would you invite someone for dinner and ask them to bring their own food and drink?"

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Wine lovers look to Spain

On visits to the quality regions of Ribera del Duero and Rioja, I found wineries torn between traditional Spanish winemaking rules and planting new French varietals such as merlot the world readily recognizes.

Gordon Stimmell recommends wine to pair with tomato-sauced pastas and roasted leg of lamb.

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Barbecue Recipes

Recipes:

* Barbecued Prime Rib

* Zucchini Bean Dip

* Sweet Potatoes & Lime

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Port Credit newcomer isn't a 10

Judy Gerstel reviews Ten Restaurant and Wine Bar in Mississauga.

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What's for lunch? Pizza pie?

Christian Cotroneo discusses the lunch offerings at Giovanna.

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Restaurant Happenings

Check out the happenings at local restaurants, including Mistura restaurant winning one of the Distinguished Restaurants of North America's (DiRoNa) Award of Excellence.

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Give our beer an edge

Now that 25 of Ontario's brewers have teamed up to work together in the form of the Ontario Craft Brewers alliance, it's time to consider a radical idea: they increasingly need to start working apart.

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Live 8 music lovers feast on free chocolate

Sure, Live 8-goers got homegrown music — and the all-important message about African poverty. But most of them enjoyed a free chocolate bar to boot. Hershey doled out 35,000 of its new Max5 bars in six hours at the Barrie gig. That's one for each Live 8 ticket, also handed out free.

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Bowling for your breakfast

Deliciousness lurks everywhere in our never-ending metropolis — like the snack bar at Club 300 Bowl in Markham.

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Toronto Star – July 13, 2005

The dating game

Every time I ask food retailers along the Arab Quarter of Lawrence Ave. E. in Scarborough "What is the best date to eat?" they unhesitatingly answer "medjool." The large, succulent date — originally from Iraq and now widely grown in California — sells for $10 to $12 a pound.

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Aroma kits for crafty wine lovers

Gordon Stimmell offers advice for purchasing and using wine aroma kits.

Wine aroma kits are perfect not only for beginners to awaken and train their senses, but for connoisseurs to refine their olfactory prowess.

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River House is a fresh catch

Judy Gerstel reviews River House in Severn Falls.

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Asian nook a sunny treat

Christian Cotroneao reviews Tai O on Eglinton Avenue.

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He's a builder and a baker

Jennifer Bain gets the inside information on Andrea Mastrandrea of Aida's Pinevalley Bakery .

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Four reasons to light up

It's tempting to do the same-old easy barbecue meals, but here are four reasons to experiment.

Recipes:

* Tarragon-Vanilla Chicken

* Grilled Bananas with Ginger-Lime Sauce

* Paprika-Rubbed Steaks

* Garlic Blue Cheese Sauce

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Toronto Star – July 20, 2005

Try some herbal magic

You don't have to play by any rules when it comes to adding fresh herbs to meals

Now's the perfect time to try new varieties and experiment

The best place to learn is Richters Herbs, a 40-minute drive from downtown Toronto. A mecca for gardeners since 1975, this maze of greenhouses offers 600 varieties of leafy herbs.

For tips on buying and using herbs, check out Herbal help.

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Newest winery on the block

Gorden Stimmell reports on Tawse Winery and their wines.

Everything is state-of-the-art. A six-level winery built into a hill, with a grape processing system that uses gentle gravity rather than pumping, and a natural geothermal energy flow via pipes from a pond out front to control heating and cooling. Plus a gorgeous barrel cellar with feeder lines mounted on the ceiling.

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From our grill to yours

Jennifer Bain shares the following BBQ recipes:

* Mustard-Crumbed Flank Steak

* Tri-Tip Roast with Chimichurri Sauce

* Balsamic-Garlic Kale

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Dudes, where's my catered food?

Adrian Niman and John Goldie may still be 21-year-old students, but they are successfully catering dinner parties for up to 100 people, and they have years of food service experience between them.

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Purple haze

Since meeting Sue Mattie, I've slept peacefully through the night. The secret: lavender buds from her Flesherton-area farm tucked into a silky bundle under my pillowcase.

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Toronto Star – July 27, 2005

Berried treasure

Summer in Sudbury revolves around picking, selling, buying, cooking or celebrating wild blueberries At the 19th annual blueberry festival, enthusiasts explain their passions

Blueberry picking in these parts is truly a communal affair. Friends and families band together every summer, scour the woods every morning for the lucrative berries and then sell them along the highways.

Recipes: :

* Sudberry Delight

* Blueberry Nectarine Buckle

* Blueberry Bread Pudding

* Blueberries and Tangerines with Basil Syrup

* Chilled Blueberry Soup

* Blueberry Feta Salad

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Barbecuers compete in Barrie

This weekend Barrie is hosting the 2nd Canadian Open Barbecue Championships & Ribfest with $20,000 in prize money.

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Bad Dog is a real charmer

The latest vintage of Bad Dog white is not bad either. In fact, it's very good, a sauvignon blanc and chardonnay blend from the Vin de Pays "Dog" (instead of d'Oc). Tasty, fullish, food-friendly, with a nice spicy kick. 

Gordon Stimmell rates two other wines to pair with chicken and grilled lamb chops.

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Make yours a dry, cold beer

If the beer you're drinking must be cold to be palatable, you may well be drinking lousy beer. Warming beer slightly more than what we traditionally drink beer at often will allow the full flavour to come out.

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Ontario launches ale trail for thirsty tourists

Those thirsting for new travel experiences can now indulge in "brewery tourism" via the Ontario Craft Beer Route. Launched last week by the Ontario Craft Brewers and the LCBO, the route spotlights 25 breweries between Windsor (Wakerville Brewing Co.) and Ottawa (Heritage Brewing in Carleton Place).

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Meet the chef of Kimbourne Farm

Chef Louis-Charles Desjardins runs a bed and breakfast and restaurant in Kimberley.

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What would Willy Wonka say?

Catalan chef Ferran Adrià of El Bulli shares his recipe for Toasted Bread with Bittersweet Chocolate.

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Toronto Star – August 3, 2005

Competitive barbecuing

Barbecuing involves smoking and cooking meat (often tougher, cheaper cuts) nice and slow over a low, wood fire to tenderize it and render out the fat.

Play (hungrily) with fire: Seven dishes to round out your backyard barbecues

Recipes:

* Maple Bean Pie

* Jack & Coke Steak

* Green Bean Salad with Crème Fraîche

* Raise a Little Hell Flank Steak

* Salt + Pepper Burgers

* Tri-Tip Roast with Hickory-Tomato Sauce

* Dr. BBQ's Coleslaw

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Growing blackcurrants is berry adventurous

But if you plant it, they will come. And come they do, for fresh blackcurrants in baskets, pick-your-own adventures and preserves. Some are lured by the sign he put up just last month on Hwy. 24, directing them to Foxmoor Farm, a few minutes up a country road called Kendal.

From duck to dessert, blackcurrants please

Recipes:

* Duck Breasts with Blackcurrant Sauce

* Blackcurrant Jam `Pudding'

* Yum Yum Blackcurrant & Cream Jellies

* Blackcurrant & Raspberry Sauce

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Never mind the big bucks

The best super-premium cult cabernet sauvignons, hand-picked and aged in the finest oak, frequently command prices over $100. Now some of these are truly wonderful, but give me a break — they are not that great.

Gordon Stimmell reviews some of his affordable favorites.

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Be aware of what you're grilling

"The main cancer-causing compound that occurs in grilling comes from the smoke," says Dana-Farber nutritionist Stephanie Vangsness. "So you want to reduce the exposure to that smoke."

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Italian getaway

Judy Gerstel reviews La Fonte Trattoria in Woodbridge.

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BYOS (Bring your own swimwear)

Christian Cotroneo reviews the “Lunch and Swim” program at the local Holiday Inn.

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Toronto Star – August 10, 2005

Top 10 of 2005

Four thousand people swamped the 2nd Drinks Show earlier this summer to sample up to 100 drinks in miniature form.

Jennifer Bain provides recipes for the 10 most popular drinks:

* Watermelon Collins

* Patrón Saint

* Elit Invitation

* Shanghai Martini

* Plum Paradise

* Amarula Decadence

* Berry Patch

* Hendrick's Classic

* Ocean Breeze

* Amaro Sunset

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Hot food, 'quirky energy'

Christian Cotron discusses lunch at Salto.

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Oh, Henry's fish is a trip

Judy Gerstel reviews Henry's Fish Restaurant.

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New Paks for wine

Gordon Stimmell discusses the new packaging for wine.

The LCBO is on an environmentally friendly mission. The new packaging is part of its plan to reduce its glass intake by 10 per cent by 2007. Of course, the LCBO is charging the producers of Tetra Paks a huge amount to market and display their wares.

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It all starts with baguette

Susan Sampson was surprised at the good service she received while on vacation in Paris.

Chartier still feeds the hungry masses with humble foods. Its "cuisine traditionelle" includes vegetable potage, shrimp with avocado sauce, trout with almonds, sardines, steaks frites with peppercorn sauce, duck in thick olive sauce, and chocolate mousse. Here, rosy French radishes with a ball of butter are treated as a legitimate appetizer.

For more information, check out Food Sources in Paris.

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Toronto Star – August 31, 2005

Lean, green harvest

This time of year, we are blessed with an abundance of zucchini in our markets and gardens

Versatile vegetable can be used in everything from dips to main dishes

Today, fresh zucchini, the twin of the vegetable marrow that is much favoured in the Middle East, is found in abundance in supermarkets, Italian markets and home gardens.

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Building a tandoor in Muskoka

Having a tandoor at my Muskoka home finally became possible a few months ago, during a chat with potter Trevor Thomas. We were lamenting the befuddling and complete lack of local Indian food.

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Look beyond trail mix and weiners on sticks

Susan Sampson discusses four camping cookbooks and provides the following recipes:

* Cold Asian Linguine

* Little Cub's Taco Salad

* Ginger Beef Skewers

* Mixed Fruit Chutney

* Caribou's Creamy Potatoes With Bacon

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Heading for North will take you east

Judy Gerstel reviews North Restaurant in Thornhill.

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A garden of Indian delights

Christian Cotroneo talks about lunch at Indian Garden.

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The Spanish alphabet

A guide to the beloved foods of Spain, from A to Z, and where to find them

The culinary world is in love with Spanish food. If you are, too, it will be tough to satisfy your desires in Toronto. Spanish products here are as elusive as the small Spanish community.

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Toronto Star – September 7, 2005

What's cooking in class?

Whether your taste runs to Thai or gourmet, you'll find a school for you in our annual guide

Ruth Valancius provides the annual compilation.

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Rhône voyage

But the mother region is in full-blown crisis. In Canada as well as other New World lands, Rhône wine sales are down drastically, even as its transplanted grapes are ironically enjoying a peak of popularity everywhere else.

Gordon Stimmell reviews several of his finds from his recent trip along the Rhône River.

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Toddlers learn ABCs of recipes

Cooking with Children teaches kitchen basics

Mini-chefs love sensory aspect of food preparation

"We like to have fun — especially getting our hands messy and tasting everything," says Freeman, who teaches Cooking with Children at the Birchmount Bluffs Neighbourhood Centre in southwest Scarborough

Simple recipes to try with children:

* Celery Fish Boats

* Mini-Pizzas

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Toronto Star – September 14, 2005

Red hot pepper party

Pepper roasting is an old-country ritual that continues in Toronto's Little Italy

The annual festivities revolve around sheppard peppers

Firemaster Carmelo Galle, in the orange shirt, stands before an enormous brick fireplace in the corner roasting bushels of red, Ontario-grown sheppard peppers. He gently lobs each long, waxy pepper into the flames and ashes, like a bocce ball, and turns them with a metal rod attached to a long stick as they blacken.

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What really came first, breakfast or egg?

This savoury bread pudding is made the night before, then baked in the a.m. while you run amok. Stratas usually contain eggs and cheese, but otherwise the ingredients can be anything. (Stratas are also great for brunches or lunches.)

Recipes:

* Asparagus & Prosciutto Strata

* Cheddar, Bacon & Corn Muffins

* Graceland Caramel French Toast

* Spicy Sausage, Gruyère & Onion Strata

* Western Ham & Egg Casserole

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Ups and downs

The Ontario grape harvest is underway early in most wineries and 2005 is looking excellent for reds such as pinot noir, baco and cabernet sauvignon. The picking will continue until the end of October.

Gordon Stimmell includes his top picks of Ontario wines.

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Gin finally adds new flavours

It's finally back: flavoured gin. Let's all take a second, and applaud Beefeater Gin for being able to get over itself and accept that the flavoured spirit market is here to stay — and that gin deserves a piece of it.

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Farmers in the County go bare for a cause

Everyone's getting naked. Opera lovers. Foxy firefighters. Australian soccer players. Ladies who are old and proud of it. They've all stripped and posed for calendars to get the world's attention. Now, we have our very own naked farmers, straight from Prince Edward County in Ontario. Their cause: the future of farming.

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Toronto Star – September 21, 2005

He works for peanuts

Yes, the sandy soil of southwestern Ontario's tobacco country is ideal for growing peanuts

But it's a struggle to compete against cheap imports for one Vittoria farmer

Bet you didn't know that our four-seasoned province has a peanut crop? Or that peanuts grow underground and not on trees?

Come then to Kernal Peanuts, the Racz family farm in Vittoria, southwest of Hamilton near Lake Erie.

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Out of Africa, Ontario, Oz

This week, we cast our best-buy net very wide to bring you top values from around the world.

Gordon Stimmell reviews three wines to pair with grilled homeburgers, Alfredo pasta with scallops, and barbecued burgers or ribs.

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Beware of Saturday night fever

Winter is a toxicologist who directs the FoodSafeProgram at the University of California, Davis. Bacterial contamination, irradiation, biotechnology and pesticides are the topics that whet his musical appetite.

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Smoke will get in your eyes

Reader is all fired up about the 59 barbecues, smokers, grills and pits at his house. His pickup truck, dubbed the Grilling Machine, is parked in the drive. On the back, a Napoleon Gourmet Grill holds a slowly revolving porchetta, or rolled piglet. The truck is also equipped with a Freedom Grill, marketed for tailgating. Behind it, pork bellies are being transformed into smoked bacon in a gadget that Reader calls his No. 52. The custom-built smoker from Dead Serious Cookers is 10 feet long; it travels on a trailer.

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Seven is a work in progress

Judy Gerstel reviews the restaurant Seven in Kleinburg.

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Good food but not much of a view

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Spice of Life in Yorkville.

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Toronto Star – September 28, 2005

It's a matter of taste

A food scientist dubs Canadians 'flavour adventure seekers' and has the test to prove it

Marcone has come to the Star to administer the taste bud test (which you can try, though it's not as easy as it sounds to count papillae) and to spread the word that a taste for bold flavours is partly due to genetics.

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Bobby Flay has a way with steak

An eye-catching steak graces the cover of September's Bon Appétit. It's the creation of American chef/TV celebrity Bobby Flay, whose Mesa Grill is now in Caesars Palace in Las Vegas.

Recipe:

* Ancho-Coffee-Rubbed Steak With Ancho-Mushroom Sauce

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It's time for wine fairs

Fall is a fertile time for wine fairs, where both beginners and wine devotees get the chance to sample a wide range of a country's wines.

Gordon Stimmell offers several top picks from the Chilean wine fair.

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Soup's on for Rosh Hashanah

Susan Sampson reviews Soup: A Kosher Collection.

Recipe:

* Mexican Beef Soup

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Kamammas cook up recipes for success

"With our pots and pans, we are liberating ourselves and our children," says Lillian Ngwexana, dubbed a "kamamma" in her hometown of Stellenbosch, South Africa. The single mother of four runs a restaurant called Once Upon a Stove.

Recipes:

* Chakalaka

* Cape Fish with Hangover Sauce

Dishing up tradition

A rainbow of races and cultures has given South African cuisine a rich mix of dishes. Here are some samples.

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Ambitious chef presides over inn

Judy Gerstel reviews Twigs at the Inn at Christie's Mill.

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Does your coffee have a conscience?

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Birds and Beans on Mimico Avenue.

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Toronto Star – October 5, 2005

A fresh approach

Seventeen Toronto elementary schools now offer salad bar programs at lunch

There are raw veggies (caesar salad and mixed greens, carrots, cukes, broccoli, cauliflower, green olives and grape tomatoes), fruits (watermelon, applesauce, pineapple, cantaloupe, strawberries, apples and peaches), proteins (homemade meatballs in tomato sauce, chickpeas, red kidney beans, cheese cubes) and grains (white rolls today, though it's usually whole-wheat, breadsticks and melba toasts).

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Lighten up your meal

Thanksgiving really is the great, Canadian holiday. It's a celebration of food and family — not one particular religion — and can be enjoyed by everyone.

Recipes:

* Fall Greens with Pumpkin Seeds & Asiago Cheese

* Honeyed Sweet Potatoes and Bananas

* Tarragon Turkey Breast

* Roasted Onion Wedges

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Thanksgiving wine choices

Today we have duelling pinot grigios for Thanksgiving.

Sculpted from pinot gris grapes, this light, refreshing white has stormed the hearts of wine lovers.

Gordon Stimmell reviews three wines for Thanksgiving, as well as two more for pairing with shellfish and veal scallopini.

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Has turkey put you in a fowl mood yet?

If you visited Harold McGee at his home lab, you might catch him strapping ice packs to the breast of a turkey with tensor bandages. Not pretty. But McGee is a food scientist and, like many of us, obsessed with the dilemma of turkey-eating season: even cooking.

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A good marriage

Judy Gerstel reviews Lokshen Alfredo on Yonge Street.

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A fine place to enjoy delicious chaos

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at KOS Café and Restaurant.

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Toronto Star – October 12, 2005

Playing matchmaker

How home cooks can mate food and wine — and become their own sommeliers Expert uses `Taste Toolbox' to tinker with pairings, writes

One key approach is breaking things down into their elements. This involves constructing a dish piece by piece, each element tasted against a wine, or deconstructing a recipe and rebuilding it to fit a particular wine.

Wine writer Gordon Stimmell offers a variety of pairing tips.

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An Italian experience

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Fusilli on Queen Street.

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10W30 is dark and subtle

Jon Filson reviews Neustadt 10W30 Brown Ale by Neustadt Springs Brewery.

The brewery bills this as a "malty grain premium dark ale" and, while true, that sounds far more intimidating than the beer actually is.

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The joy of fab dinner parties

Jennifer Bain reviews David Rosengarten Entertains: Fabulous Parties for Food Lovers.

Recipes:

* Dulce de Leche Banana Bread Pudding

* Caramelized Onion and Gorgonzola Pizza

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Molto Mario has a magical way with mod Italian

Jennifer Bain reviews Molto Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home.

Recipe:

* Mario Batali's Spaghetti with Green Olive Sauce

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Bringing home the bacon and cooking it

Here are some unusual ways to enjoy bacon — none of which is as good for you as green vegetables.

Recipes:

* Apple Bacon Sandwich

* Candied Bacon

* Bacon Pancakes with Walnut Butter and Caramelized Onions

* Bacon and Tomato Bread Pudding

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This book is all about the kids

Feed a Young Mind: Healthy Recipes Kids Can Make offers recipes that kids can make themselves while raising money for Canadian Feed the Children.

Recipe:

* Ramen Noodle Casserole

[TPO]

Toronto Star – October 19, 2005

San Francisco treats

Cans and packages are frowned upon in the Bay Area

Rice-A-Roni, it seems, is contrary to the city's modern culinary sensibilities. For San Francisco is the epicentre of California cuisine. It is a city striving to be closer to the Earth. All that is fresh, seasonal, organic and kind to the environment is revered. Here, milk cartons declare their contents "hormone-free." A farmers' market sign threatens: "Shoplifters will be composted."

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Dirty dining in San Francisco

Beckoned to this dining-mad city by the Association of Food Journalists for its annual conference, my colleague and I dutifully called Chez Panisse precisely one month to the calendar day in advance to reserve a coveted table, choosing the à la carte upstairs café over the downstairs restaurant with its prix-fixe, set menu.

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Three wines for your money

Gordon Stimmell reviews three wines on the 100-point system to pair with king crab in butter, raw oysters, and beef or game stews.

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That's the way the bread crumbles

The Zuni Café in San Francisco manages to make even breadcrumbs scrumptious. Sprinkle this versatile dish on grilled meats, fish or vegetables, or eggs, soups or salads.

Recipe:

* Toasted Breadcrumb Salsa

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Great fun with Korean

Judy Gerstel reviews Namu on Yonge Street.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – October 26, 2005

A trip to Susurland

by Jennifer Bain

Susur: A Culinary Life (Ten Speed, $60) is a brand-new memoir with recipes and luscious photos. It's best if you don't think of it as a cookbook.

Bain also reviews the cookbook:

* One Susur Lee meal, coming right up

Recipes:

* Wuxi Braised Pork Roast with Roasted Vegetables and Corn & Barley Compote

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Rolling out the barrels of beer

by Jon Filson, Suck it Back

A week before Caffé Volo's first cask-conditioned ale event, owner Ralph Moana is figuratively scratching his head: "I'm beginning to see why no one has ever done this before," he says over the phone.

For more information:

* Cask ale?

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Strange smells, strange tales

by Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

Experts and wine lovers agree: what happens in the vineyard often shows up in the aromas and flavours of a finished wine. However, some of my experiences have reached deep into Ripley's Believe It Or Not! territory.

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Happy Halloween

by Jennifer Bain

Here's a guilty pleasure — a special edition Pillsbury Halloween recipe booklet that was in the supermarket earlier this month.

Recipe:

* Hot Dog Mummies

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There are delicious ways to welcome the grim eater

by Susan Sampson

The Pickle Barrel has a catering wing as well as a chain of restaurants. Wilson says the most popular catered funeral food is simply sandwich platters, fruit and crudités with dip, and pastries such as mini cheesecakes, éclairs and brownies.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – November 2, 2005

Spiritual cuisine

We're all used to stirring red or white wine into our meals, but are less confident about spirits

But the spirit flavour spectrum is massive and each can be a valuable addition

by Jon Filson

And you don't need to be intimidated about picking up a bottle and pouring some into a mixing bowl instead of a highball glass. If you can match the flavour of a spirit to a dish, there's no reason you can't mix it into the meal in the first place. 

Recipes:

* Chocolate-Whisky Parfait

* Rum Mashed Sweet Potatoes

* Vodka Red Pesto Linguine

If you prefer drinking liquor to cooking with it, check out the second Spirit of Toronto event on Saturday.

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Grocers show off bag of tricks

by Susan Sampson, Crazy Cook

Bagging groceries is not a haphazard, slapdash affair. At least, it shouldn't be. There are even contests for the best baggers in the business.

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Say cheese when preparing soup

by Susan Sampson

Recipes:

* Cheddar, Oats & Bacon Soup

* Cheddar, Ham, Sausage & Beer Soup

* Soup With Greens & Cheese

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Open some rich reds

by Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

Australia is the big winner this week, with a belated nod to the rich reds emerging from southern Italy.

Includes reviews for three wines to pair with shellfish, shrimp, sirloin shishkabobs, and mushroom risotto.

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Let's pray for better service

Judy Gerstel reviews Jerusalem Two on Bathurst Street.

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The hungry can get lucky

Christian Cotroneo reviews Club Lucky at Adelaide and John Streets.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – November 9, 2005

Who's our hottest chef?

by Jennifer Bain

These 10 chefs will hit the demo stage next week at the Gourmet Food & Wine Show. Only one will be named the 2005 Chef of Distinction.

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Living the wine dream in Beamsville

by Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

The mom and pop of this operation are Marg and Ken Fielding, whose roots are in Minden. Ken handles franchises in that region for Subway sandwich shops. The transition from fast food to slow wine has been a real adventure for the couple, who share a passion for the grape.

This article includes reviews of several Fielding wines.

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A cool find

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Cool Runnings on Main Street.

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Cooks celebrate bounty of autumn

by Jennifer Bain

In the past year, the southwestern Ontario acreage of sweet potatoes has grown 50 per cent, to 600 acres, and the 12 growers can't keep up with local demand.

Recipes:

* Cajun Sweet Potato Fingers with Chili Mayo

* Salmon with Pomegranate-Avocado Salsa

* Italian Sausages with Red Grapes

* Rocco's Spaghetti Carbonara

[TPO]

Toronto Star – November 16, 2005

Learning to serve you

-- Roberta Avery

THE TOWN OF THE BLUE MOUNTAINS—It's somewhere between a rah-rah sales meeting and a cult initiation, and the message is loud and clear: if you are not a foodie, you won't fit in.

Recipe:

* Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill's Mushroom Soup

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Oh baby, it's dinnertime

-- Susan Sampson

Besides broccoli, babies can tuck into sweet potato, banana-blueberry, veggies and chicken, lentils and root vegetables, or beef, barley and veggies. Our two baby testers didn't scream for more, nor did they reject them. Grownups at the recent Grocery Innovations Canada show revealed no hesitation in finishing their samples.

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Cooks warm to Israeli couscous

-- Jennifer Bain

Tiny, golden North African couscous is granular durum semolina, according to the site Epicurious.com, that's steamed in a special pot called a couscoussière, or precooked so you just add boiling water or liquid, let it absorb and then fluff it up.

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Beaujolais newcomers

-- Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

Tomorrow's release of nouveaus includes the gamay grape reds of Beaujolais, but now we also have gamay from Ontario, syrah from France, and novellos from Italy made using indigenous grapes.

Gordon Stimmell reviews two wines to pair with sliced clove-studded ham and braised or stewed meats.

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Keeping menu options open

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Ferro on St. Clair Ave. W.

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St. Clair Ave. W.

-- Jon Filson, Suck It Back

For a chocolate beer, Filson recommends Rogue Chocolate Stout.

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The future for shoppers

-- Susan Sampson

The smart cart is on its way. It's called the Concierge. And it's got all kinds of functions to hasten and ease your supermarket experience.

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Warm your belly with this duo

Recipes:

* Hot Bulgur Cereal with Dried Apricots

* Egg Fried Rice

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Less is more shouldn't apply to the servers

Judy Gerstel reviews Mye Restaurant in Oakville.