DIGEST: The Toronto Star

[TPO]

Toronto Star – November 23, 2005

Pink tea secrets

by Jennifer Bain

It's called Kashmiri tea and the Pakistani snack shops in Gerrard India Bazaar sell it for about $2 a cup. It's sweet (from sugar), creamy (from homogenized milk or half & half cream) and chewy (from pistachios).

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In praise of Pakistani food

by Surya Bhattacharya

Stories of food that travel between Sheikh's life in Toronto and her family in Pakistan have come together in a book that started out as a cookbook but became a memoir.

The book is Tea and Pomegranates: A Memoir of Food, Family and Kashmir by Nazneen Sheikh.

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Wines fine enough to give

by Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

Stimmell gives his "fave raves, guaranteed to stroke even the most hard to please wine geek."

All of his suggestions are under $30.

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This brew is no fun

by John Filson, Suck it Back

Filson reviews Monty Python Holy Grail Ale.

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Getting eggy with it

by Jennifer Bain

You can buy this fresh, chili-laced pork sausage (popular in Mexican cooking) from places like Sausage King in St. Lawrence Market and Segovia Meats in Kensington Market.

Recipes:

* Chorizo Scrambled Eggs

* Chorizo-Jack Quesadillas

* Balsamic Fried Eggs

* Basil Scrambled Eggs With Toasted Breadcrumbs

* Chicken Liver and Red Wine Omelet

* Multi-Tomato Salad With Blue Cheese Dressing

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Chef passes on her passion for cooking

by Marion Kane

[Deborah] Reid recently became a chef/professor at this bustling downtown chefs school where she teaches butchery, food theory and large-quantity cooking. She is also involved in online teaching and developing new programs such as a graduate one in French culinary arts.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – November 30, 2005

Savour the flavours of Iraq

Iraqis have their own way with kebabs, put yogurt to good use and like to match meat with dried fruit

By Habeeb Salloum

Iraqi cuisine is large and varied. It includes dishes special to Arabs, Kurds, Assyrians, Chaldeans and others, says Muazaz Aziz, settlement counsellor at the Arab Community Centre of Toronto. Many dishes are similar to Iranian food.

Recipes:

* Lentil Soup (Shawrabat 'Adas)

* Eggplant and Yogurt (Badhinjan bil Laban)

* Meat Patties (Kebab Iroog)

* Yogurt and Cucumber (Jajeek)

* Rice Kubbah (Kubbah Halab)

* Sumac Salad

* Date Cookies (Klaychah)

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Onion dish has mayor's vote

By Susan Sampson

Toronto Mayor David Miller has his domestic side. In a Toronto Star story last Wednesday, he said he traditionally cooks the Christmas meal. His favourite dish is a casserole layered with three types of onions and three cheeses.

Recipe:

* Three-Onion & Cheese Casserole

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A pretty fancy powwow

By Jennifer Bain

For three hours on Friday night, Cher General cheerfully serves us dishes like pheasant consommé with wild rice, rabbit saddle stuffed with sage bread dressing, venison rib steak with rosemary-thyme sauce and smoked duck breast with orange-honey sauce.

Recipe:

* Three Sisters Soup recipe

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Can't go wrong with these

Gordon Stimmell rates three wines under $13 to pair with salami or pepperoni pizza, lamb kebabs, and roast turkey.

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Saggio dishes out a warm welcome

Judy Gerstel reviews Saggio Ristorante in Woodbridge.

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A great beer that I loathe

By Jon Filson, Suck It Back

A rating can tell you what the rater likes more than it does about the product being rated. Some people like ratings, so I include Ratebeer.com's. But I cling to the belief that you can like a beer that I don't. I can like a beer you don't. It doesn't make either of us wrong. In fact, it gives us something to chat about over a few.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – December 7, 2005

Hankering for fruitcake? What's old is new again

By Susan Sampson

Well, here's a fruitcake you can proudly give as a gift — one that won't be relegated to use as a doorstop. Wonderfully moist and simple, it gets its flavour from rich brewed coffee.

Recipe:

* Coffee Fruitcake

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Deli celebrates 30 years

By Jennifer Bain

The smoked meat is piled precariously high on rye with gobs of French's glorious yellow mustard. I tackle tart pickle spears and knock back a retro bottle of Coke to ease the pain of knowing the Cott black cherry has sold out.

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Cooking for dogs

Essex Cottage Farms Holiday Cake Mix for Dogs & Puppies: What it is, where to buy it, why you should have it, and all the details.

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The matchmaker

A brief review of Harmony on the Palate: Matching Simple Recipes to Everyday Wine Styles by Shari Darling.

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A pocket full of vino

A brief review of Pocket Guide to Ontario Wines, Wineries, Vineyards & Vines by Konrad Ejbich.

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A responsible way to play chess

Anyway, obviously a board with this many shot glasses on it (32) is going to be for the hardcore drinker, chess or checkerboard player. And the only person who could realistically be all three is a university student.

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Hedonism, uncorked

Rather than recommend overpriced wine gift packs, I'd like to present you with my top-rated under $15 wine of the year.

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Tame those reds with an aerator

My choice of gadget this year is the Final Touch Aerator. It's a glass bowl you plug into the top of the bottle. As the wine is poured, the swirling liquid is aerated, releasing added aromas, enhancing flavours and even catching sediment.

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Every good wine deserves to be pumped

The two stoppers contain tiny vacuumizing indicators (a white thingie that disappears at the right moment of vacuum). The stoppers are dishwasher-safe and the pump is guaranteed for five years, which is a lot longer than your opened wine, even with a stopper.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – December 14, 2005

Foie gras love affair

Top chef showcases Quebec-raised duck liver in ode to farmer

By Cynthia David

After years of practice, Froggett is a master of the foie. In a week, the British-born chef transforms some six kilograms of duck liver into edible art. The baked terrine he's assembling will take five days to make, while seared liver medallions require mere seconds.

Recipes:

* Foie Gras Terrine

* Pan-Seared Foie Gras with Celery Root, Apple and Walnut Salad

For more information, check out the Foie gras primer.

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Uyghur food finally arrives

By Jennifer Bain

They are Uyghurs and they number about 150. They have one political organization and one restaurant. They also have a knack for cooking fiery lamb kebabs and homemade noodles.

For more information, check out the Uyghur contacts.

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Paradise for meat lovers

Judy Gerstel reviews Carnaval in Richmond Hills.

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Getting creative with your rice

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at the Rice Bar on Augusta Avenue.

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Nakeds just too skimpy

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

So wineries are coming out of the gate in droves, using no oak with the idea that the resulting wines will taste fresher and crisper, and deliver the more natural flavour of the grape itself.

Stimmell reviews gift packages of wine. His recommendations range in price from $20 to $265.

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It's not a subtle beer

By Jon Filson, Suck It Back

And if you're going to make a beer that tastes like a whisky — which this does — it seems to me an actual glass of whisky is your competition. You've got to make me reach for this beer instead of pouring myself a shot on the rocks, which is just as fine a way as any to kill half an hour.

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Holiday bakers can chill out

Susan Sampson comes to the rescue of people who want to bake some holiday goodies ahead of time by explaining what freezes well and what doesn't. She also offers links to websites with additional information.

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Toronto Star – December 21, 2005

Nog test

By Susan Sampson

Eggnog isn't just a drink — it's a holiday tradition. Still, we were surprised to find so many types out there vying for attention. Which one tastes best?

Eggnog ratings

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How to serve a slice of eggnog

By Susan Sampson

Recipe:

* Eggnog Quickbread

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A few final holiday meal ideas

By Jennifer Bain

Recipes:

* Dried Cranberry, Turkey & Green Bean Salad

* Salt & Pepper-Crusted Prime Rib with Sage Gravy

* Pork & Apple Tourtière

* Cranberry Brie Muffins

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Blended family says `Merry Chrismukkah'

By Susan Sampson

Gompertz is a Jew from New York City. Wife Michelle Gantt is the daughter of a Protestant minister from the Midwest. Neither has converted. The birth of their "hybrid daughter" Minna 2 1/2 years ago inspired them to harmonize their holiday traditions and spread the Chrismukkah message.

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Give latkes a new look

By Susan Sampson

There are those who hate to mess with tradition. Then there are those who long for new taste experiences. Perhaps this original latke recipe will satisfy both camps.

Recipe:

* Olive Latkes

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A lesson in Champagne

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

Stimmell reviews three affordable sparkling wines -- affordable substitutes for champagne.

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Making spirits bright

By Jennifer Bain

Recipes:

* Pear Tree

* Sapphire Spice Martini

* Naughty or Nice Cocktail

* Silver Bells Martini

* French Clove Cocktail

[TPO]

Toronto Star – December 28, 2005

2005 Golden Whisk Awards

By Jennifer Bain & Susan Sampson

Welcome to our first annual Golden Whisk Awards. From the hundreds of recipes we tested this year, we've chosen 10 favourites.

Recipes:

* Hollywood SpagBol

* Spiced Squash and Banana Soup

* Potent Pesto

* Smoky Eggplant Pilaf

* Coffee Chili

* Smashed Peas with Mint Butter

* Tuna Kebabs with Wasabi Mayo

* Falls Greens with Pumpkin Seeds & Asiago Cheese

* Banoffee Pie

* Toasted Breadcrumb Salsa

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Stimmell's picks: Best wines of '05

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

As we recap the best value wines of 2005, it is comforting to realize that while drinkable sub-$10 wines are an endangered species, they are far from extinct.

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Got some icewine kicking around?

By Jennifer Bain

Enter Toronto's Martini Club, whose cocktail catering company created 10 icewine-based drinks last year for Inniskillin.

Recipes:

* Niagara Sunsplash

* Connoisseur Cocktail

* First Kiss

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Going with the flow

By Susan Sampson

Chocolate fountains — from the big machines at catered affairs to the tabletop models for home entertaining — are the latest food craze. The little home versions were hot gifts this Christmas. And there will be a whole lotta dippin' going on at New Year's affairs this weekend.

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Dropping in for some rare coffee beans?

By Susan Sampson, Bites

It's been almost two years since we first told you about the world's rarest coffee. Now, finally, you can get your mitts on some. If you're willing to part with 100 bucks for 1/4 pound, that is.

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Celebrate safely with Champagne

By Jennifer Bain

Champagne corks are one of the most common holiday-related hazards to the eyes, according to the American Academy of Ophthalmology.

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Cooking need not be a mystery

By Eva Sampson, Bookmark

Review of The Classic Nancy Drew Cookbook: Clues to Good Cooking

Recipe:

* Velvet Mask Balls

[TPO]

Toronto Star – January 4, 2006

Picks and pans

By Ian Harvey

We're talking cookware here, not that other stuff, though it's just about as expensive with sets costing up to $3,000.

So, whether it's your first nice set or a wedding gift (the most common reason for a cookware purchase, incidentally), how do you choose?

For more information:

* A primer on cookware technology

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The flavours of the year

By Susan Sampson

They are familiar yet fresh. They are comforting. They sparked creativity in chefs and home cooks alike throughout 2005. They are the flavours of the year: fennel, banana and ginger.

Recipes:

* Grilled Cheddar & Fennel Sandwiches With Curry Mayo

* Caramelized Banana Tarte Tatin

* Grandmother's Ginger Jam Bread & Butter Pudding

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Here's a passport for cooks

Susan Sampson reviews The Best Recipes in the World: More Than 1,000 International Recipes to Cook at Home by Mark Bittman.

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Seeking comfort in reds

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

It is Canadian winter now. We have two more months (I am being optimistic) to shoulder through and that includes a lot of snow shovelling. So we are suffering from a hankering for hearty reds. Can we be forgiven for trying to find comforting red wines that go with a blazing hearth?

Stimmell reviews wines to pair with barbecued back ribs, stews, pepper steak, and spicy Italian sausage.

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Say goodbye to sticky jars and hello to floral honeys

Kudos to Capilano Labonté for its fab new floral liquid honeys in non-drip squeeze packs.

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Pumpkin: It's never really in or out of style

By Jennifer Bain

Recipe:

* Pumpkin Spice Bundt Cake With Buttermilk Icing

[TPO]

Toronto Star – January 11, 2006

Coffee without borders

Who doesn't love a bracing cup - or two, or three - of coffee? In Toronto, we have a world of java choices

By Surya Bhattacharya

As an ethnically diverse hub, Toronto is host not only to North American coffee franchises at every corner, but fascinating coffee cultures from around the world.

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Collaborative wine

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

Even the prestigious houses in Bordeaux had to change their ways. Now the Bordelais try to balance on a tightrope between drink-now and age-worthy wines. It is a difficult challenge and transition for many. They're trying to still create traditional big fierce reds, but make them more seductive and approachable for the drink-me-now generation.

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For those about to cook, we salute you

By Jennifer Bain

Recipes for comfort foods:

* Pork Chops Braised With Spiced Honey And Grapes

* Garam Masala-Crusted Chicken With Fig Jus

* Spicy Long Beans

* Warm Lentil Salad With Sausage

* Apple Crostata

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`Aristotle of beers'

By Jon Filson, Suck It Back

I tend to drink pale ales more in the spring and fall. But pale ale is actually the most versatile of beers. It can be matched with the greatest range of foods, from the relative blandness of turkey to the fiery spice of Mexican fajitas. And it works in any season.

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Moosewood relieves the pressure

Jennifer Bain reviews Moosewood Restaurant Simple Suppers: Fresh Ideas for the Weeknight Table.

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Toronto Star – January 18, 2006

Turkish Toronto

By Jennifer Bain

There's a Turkish triangle in the east end and it tastes like this: fresh lamb from Tahsin Market, kumpir (crazily topped baked potatoes) from Champion Kokorech, and sucuk (sausage) and egg pide from Pizza Pide.

For more information:

* Turkish Toronto resources

Turkish recipes

* Red Lentil, Bulgur & Mint Soup (Ezogelin Çorbasi)

* Sultan's Delight (Hünkar Begendi)

* Saffron-Pistachio Semolina Helva (Irmik Helvasi)

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One Turkish potato with the works, please

By Jennifer Bain

Just when you think you've eaten everything Toronto has to offer, along comes kumpir.

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Good taste at a fine price

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

Spain steps up to the wine plate today with a best value red, René Barbier Tempranillo Merlot. This seems to have replaced the Barbier "Mediterranean Red," which was long on our shelves, but to my palate, never very exciting.

Stimmell reviews inexpensive wines to pair with lasagna or manicotti, shellfish, breaded chicken, and lamb curry over rice.

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Scots have no fear of frying

Judy Gerstel reviews High Street on Underhill Drive.

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This cherry beer pours pretty

By Jon Filson, Suck It Back

Take some of that chocolate, and serve it as a dessert, with a bottle of the cherry-lambic beer Belle-Vue Kriek, brewed by Belgian brewer Interbrew (a.k.a. owners of Labatt, Stella Artois, Beck's and a bunch of others. Another frequent alias: Megabrew).

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Eating well and losing weight

Susan Sampson reviews Rose Reisman's Secrets for Permanent Weight Loss: With 150 Delicious and Healthy Recipes For Success.

Recipe:

* Southwestern Rice, Beans & Charred Corn Salad

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Its heart beats Greek

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Laterna Dining Room on Yonge Street.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – January 25, 2006

Wine lovers' lament

Le Sélect Bistro's move sparks two-year tangle with bureaucracy

By Christopher Hutsul

The problem, the partners learned, was that all alcohol owned by a restaurant needs to have been purchased with an active liquor licence. But its 12,000-bottle cellar had been purchased under the Queen St. liquor licence, not the new Wellington one. To sell wine purchased with a defunct licence, according to the law, is essentially bootlegging.

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Chinese feast an adventure in eating

By Susan Sampson

Although I've been feasting for 3-1/2 hours straight, it is the duck tongues that haunt my stomach as I waddle back into my hotel. This evening, I have been initiated into the mysteries of the formal Chinese banquet.

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Japanese rice burgers join our foodscape

By Jennifer Bain

They are rice burgers — two all-rice patties shaped like buns and used to envelope tempting combos of meat and veggies.

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A cheeky way to braise beef

By Jennifer Bain, Trendspotting

Here's a disconnect. Beef cheeks cost about $3 a pound, but they're pretty much only served at upscale restaurants.

Recipe:

* Braised Beef Cheeks

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Go over to the Dark side

By Jon Filson, Suck It Back

There's something about dark beer that invites extreme positions. But the statements "I only drink dark beer" and "I never drink dark beer" are as absurd as someone saying "I only drink Coors Light, but I'm a total beer lover."

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Bordeaux faces off against Canada

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

The battle was billed as Canada vs. Bordeaux, a smack-down blind tasting of 10 red wines that drew an intensely curious crowd of 140 wine buffs to the Ontario Club on a recent bitterly cold winter evening.

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Parsnip soup in touch with roots

Our restaurant critic heads into her kitchen to launch this new cooking column

By Amy Pataki

So into the kitchen I went. My starting point was a tried-and-true recipe for carrot-ginger soup perfumed with garam masala, an Indian spice mix. But Indian flavours were temporarily on the "no" list and there was only one carrot in the house. No problem: The sweet nuttiness of parsnips would take centre stage instead.

Recipe:

* Parsnip Ginger Soup

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Test kitchen recipes

By Jennifer Bain

Recipes:

* Puffy Corn Omelette

* Roman Egg Drop Soup

[TPO]

Toronto Star – February 1, 2006

Sweet on sourdough

By Susan Sampson

Bakers here rise to the occasion seven days a week, preparing 10,000 sourdough, French and European hearth breads a day. Visitors can press their faces against a 30-foot-long picture window and ogle loaves formed into crabs and crocs. The bakers snag the dough tossed from the mezzanine 20 feet above.

For more information: Tips and Recipes

Recipes:

* Sourdough Starter

* Fail-Proof Sourdough Bread

* Sourdough Silver Dollar Pancakes

* Ham & Cheese Toasts With Jalapeño Cream

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Something for every wine drinker

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

While the connoisseurs argue the lavish merits of $18 to $32 New Zealand sauvignon blancs, with their pronounced piquant nettle and gooseberry and tomato leaf dimensions, there's still a world of white sauvignons at a more affordable level.

Includes inexpensive wines to pair with grilled salmon steaks with dill, osso buco or grilled veal chops, or roast lamb with mint sauce or jelly.

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Have a Super Bowl of chili

By Susan Sampson

This Sunday, check out novelist Patricia Cornwell's version. Cornwell is known for her thrillers, but loves to cook.

Recipe:

* Turkey Chili with Beer & Lime

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A great use for stale bread

By Jennifer Bain

Recipes:

* Papa Al Pomodoro (Stale Bread & Tomato Soup)

* Garlic-Rosemary Fingerling Potatoes

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South African twist to this burger joint

Judy Gerstel reviews Burger Hut on Sheppard Avenue.

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A helping of nostalgia

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Patris Restaurant on Danforth Avenue.

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Pancakes with lemon lift

Recipe:

* Lemon Ricotta Pancakes

[TPO]

Toronto Star – February 8, 2006

Fancy fish eggs

By Jennifer Bain

What does matter, and what's interesting if you enjoy the thrill of fish eggs popping on your tongue or the roe that dominates sushi meals, is the burgeoning world of caviar alternatives.

For more information:

* Where to find caviar alternatives

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Squash can imitate spaghetti

By Amy Pataki, Dining In

Trolling my way through the sumptuous lineup last fall, eyeing the house-smoked salmon and roast asparagus with hazelnut vinaigrette, a small tangle of spaghetti squash tossed with pesto catches my eye. Sitting on a square white plate, almost lost among the lavish salads and fresh flowers, it seems as refreshingly simple as a crisp white shirt in a closet full of riotous couture. One bite confirms the impression and a pledge is made: I will make this at home.

Recipe:

* Pesto Spaghetti Squash

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Say it with edible flowers

By Jennifer Bain

This Valentine's Day, why not give edible flowers scattered over something delicious instead of a bouquet?

Recipe:

* Molten Chocolate Cakes

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Tea and chocolates may tickle fancy of fine food lovers

By Susan Sampson

Want the flavour of the tea, not the bag? Check out the pyramid-shaped bags from Compagnie Coloniale Teas.

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Heartbreak Grape is complex

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

Today we explore the mysteries of pinot noir. Just because it has long been dubbed the Heartbreak Grape (because it's so difficult to grow and vinify) does not mean you cannot serve it on Valentine's Day.

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Lovely liver pleases the heart

Recipe:

* Sautéed Calf's Liver With Mustard-Shallot Sauce

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A beer with roots

By Jon Filson, Suck It Back

At its simplest definition, a pilsner is a light lager with noticeable hops. Its popularity is easy to understand. As a style, if done well, it's the clearest, cleanest, freshest tasting, and among the lightest beers out there. As a consumer and taster, this is the most accessible beer style on the planet. At its finest, it should leave a dry aftertaste that makes you say "aahhhh" before you even realize you're doing it.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – February 15, 2006

Hopheads unite online

The Bar Towel is the online leader of the beer scene in Ontario

By Jon Filson

These Bar Towellers, like the gang of Stonecutters on The Simpsons, form an unofficial elite in the local beer world. That's because, to a large extent, Bar Towel is the beer scene.

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Pudding without the politics

By Jennifer Bain

This Ashura, or Noah's Pudding, is a gift from Muslim Turks. I got mine at Toronto Police headquarters, one of four places where the Turks handed out 3,000 puddings to fellow Torontonians last week.

Recipe:

* Ashura (Noah's Pudding)

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Attacked by spices

Judy Gerstel reviews Taverna Nikkos in Woodbridge.

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Serenity is served at buffet

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Mantra on Elm Street.

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Jelly can be sophisticated

By Susan Sampson

Say goodbye to grandma's aspic. There's more to gelatin than garish Jell-O moulds with fruit cocktail and mini marshmallows.

Recipes:

* Champagne Gelatin

* Dark Roast Coffee Gelée

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The news on chili powder

By Jennifer Bain

Finally, pure ancho and chipotle chili powders have arrived in supermarkets, courtesy of spice giant McCormick.

Recipe:

* Ancho & Fennel-Spiced Beef Tenderloin

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Hot chocolate coffee a winner in Turin

By Susan Sampson

If Turin has an official beverage, it's this: a layer of molten chocolate, a layer of hot espresso and a layer of cream.

Recipe:

* Bicerin

[TPO]

Boston Globe – February 22, 2006

The fat of the land

By Susan Sampson

Canadians spend only 10 per cent of disposable income on food. Globally speaking, that's low. We have come to expect our food to be cheap and plentiful. And we eat lots of it. But we don't exercise away the calories.

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Spray me a flavour

By Jennifer Bain

Make mine a cheeseburger, hold the artery-clogging bacon but give me two calorie-free sprays of smoked bacon and a sugar-free spray of ketchup.

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Taking stock of life on the high seas

By Amy Pataki, Dining In

We dined together every night on fine French food, coddled by our very own waiter, busboy and sommelier. (Technically, the staff was there to serve others, but it never felt that way.) Our conversation was diverting, but a food critic doesn't stop thinking about how dinner is made, even while on vacation. So after a few days, my curiosity piqued by the logistics, I did something I normally can't do and asked to see the kitchen.

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Low-fat sausage a healthy change

By Jennifer Bain, Test Kitchen

Recipe:

* Lentils with Sausage

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Ernies at the Oscars

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

The process of selecting the best of the current crop of Ontario wines began back in January, when 37 of the province's winemakers gathered to taste 180 wines in a blind competition.

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Lunch money day helps the hungry

By Jennifer Bain

Tomorrow, put your lunch money to good use — donate it to Second Harvest's eighth annual fundraiser.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – March 1, 2006

Cherished soups

Habeeb Salloum ladles out a bowl full of warm memories and nourishment.

Recipes:

* Harira (Meat & Chickpea Soup)

* Shawrbat 'Adas Ma'a Ruzz (Lentil & Rice Soup)

* Labaniyya (Yogurt Soup)

* Sopa de Ajo Blanco (White Almond & Garlic Soup)

* Borscht (Beet & Cabbage Soup)

* Sopa De Elote (Corn Soup)

* Soupe Aux Pois (Pea Soup)

* Laksa Penang (Fish Soup)

* Leblabi (Chickpea Soup)

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The tasty act of cooking

By Jennifer Bain

But eating is first on the agenda — in the form of a tray of impossibly fresh and flaky baklava (made with walnuts and hazelnuts) straight from the oven.

Recipes for madbucha and shakshouka, known in the cookbook as "Nina's Breakfast."

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An affair to remember with Madame

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Portobello Market Café on Queen Street.

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Tasty twists from the east

Judy Gerstel reviews dinner at Eastern Twist in Scarborough.

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How to make a classic cake

By Susan Sampson, Retro Recipes

interactive column, is back after a long hiatus. This week, we recall a request from Mary McEwan of Brighton, who longed for a taste of the "Castle Cake" served at important family occasions in the 1970s.

Recipe:

* Mocha Almond Dacquoise

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The beer that Anchored a revolution

By Jon Filson, Suck It Back

If you know your recent Ontario beer history, you're aware that a host of micros and once-micros, like Brick, Sleeman, Creemore, Upper Canada and others, deserve much of the credit for the craft-brewed beer renaissance in the province.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – March 8, 2006

Charcuterie is très chic

By Jennifer Bain

Gourmets will define charcuterie by rattling off where to get the trendiest Spanish serrano ham, French saucisson sec and Italian prosciutto di parma.

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The enduring joy of eating liver

By Amy Pataki

It beats me why liver gets such a bad rap. When bought fresh and prepared properly, liver — fowl or mammal — is a joy to eat, popping in the mouth and full of vitamins and minerals besides.

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We're keen on quinoa

By Jennifer Bain

Quinoa is a lovely supergrain with a distinct nutty flavour. Pronounced keen-wah, it quadruples in volume when cooked. You can use it instead of rice in sweet or savoury dishes.

Recipes:

* Mango-Quinoa Salad

* Quinoa Power Porridge

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Learning to taste wine is a journey

By Gordon Stimmell, Gord on Grapes

After a very short time schooling yourself, you learn what to expect with each grape variety. This is called typicity. You learn a set of expectations for each type of grape. When a wine steps outside this box, alarm bells sound. If the wine is delicious, you want to know more about why this wine is unique. If it tastes terrible, you look for what went wrong.

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Take a break from meat

By Jennifer Bain

Recipes:

* Cauliflower Cheddar Gratin with Horseradish Crumbs

* Penne with White Pesto

[TPO]

Toronto Star – March 15, 2006

A green new year

By Kristin Rushowy

The couple are also busy changing the menu not only at home but at their Persian restaurant, The Pomegranate, in honour of the most important holiday and celebration on the Iranian calendar.

Recipes:

* The Pomegranate's Kookoo Sabzi

* The Pomegranate's Salad Shirazi

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We need to embrace heavenly hash

By Jennifer Bain

Like millions before me, I lost my heart in San Francisco. Twice. First to a glamorous corned beef hash, then to a rustic chorizo hash.

Recipes:

* Ritz-Carlton's Country Corned Beef Hash

* Traditional Corned Beef Hash

This is inspired by a recipe

* Sweet Potato & Sausage Hash

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Sip stout for St. Paddy's Day

By Jon Filson

Well, with that spirit of debate in mind, for this St. Paddy's Day, let's consider another argument: that Guinness, as good as it is, isn't the best-tasting stout you can buy at the LCBO.

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Stout it out on March 17

Recipes:

* Chocolate Stout Cake

* Stout Ice Cream

Edited March 18, 2006 by TPO (log)

[TPO]

Toronto Star – March 22, 2006

The saviour of syrup

By Jennifer Bain

Every day in March and April, Faucher makes sure the maple syrup flows as freely as the live folk music at his Québécois sugaring-off feast of pea soup, maple-smoked ham, salted back bacon, wood-fired baked beans, meat pie, sugar pie and more. Outside there's a trough of unlimited maple-taffy-on-snow.

For more information:

* Which brand tastes best?

* Maple syrup info and events

* Recipes (pie, pork and salad)

* More recipes (lasagna, pancakes)

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Strange tales from the cellar

By Gordon Stimmell

In Europe, where cellars date back centuries, one encounters tales of ghosts, ancient Romans, lovers' trysts, even unsolved murders. Imagine my surprise to discover mystery and enigma in the modern, bunker-like wine cellar at Niagara's Creekside Estate in Jordan Station.

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Whisky wars

By Jon Filson

Let's gather round to hear The Story of the Duelling Whisky Shows. Here are the basic facts of what's going on in the whisky event world in Toronto

[TPO]

Toronto Star – March 29, 2006

Dinner time crunch

By Susan Sampson

Once upon a time, dinner hour was civilized. Then we started rushing home to make 30-minute meals. That got whittled down to 20 minutes. Now 10 minutes is becoming the magic number. A whole busy industry whirling with cookbooks, magazines and food celebrities assures us we can cook faster. Is it a cruel hoax?

For more information:

* Time trials for quick cooks

* Fast Fixes

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Syrup lovers don't buy price

By Jennifer Bain

Forget the price of gas — it's the price of maple syrup that really has Canadians fuming.

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Patio Party sippers

By Gordon Stimmell

With spring on our doorstep and the first hardy Ontarians venturing forth on their decks to fire up their barbecues, we turn our palates to whites and reds perfect for a patio party.

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Library bestsellers

Judy Gerstel reviews The Library in Midland.

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Soup for Seinfeld fans

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at SoupMan at Yonge Street.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – April 5, 2006

Need for new beer is here

America's craft brewery industry is on fire and sales are soaring. Can a similar rennaissance happen here?

By Jon Filson

For the second straight year, craft beer is the fastest growing segment of the United States alcohol industry, according to the Brewers Association in Colorado. Craft beer creators sold 9 per cent more beer than last year.

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Honey, feed me mussels

By Susan Sampson

A new B.C. breed is making a splash among top Toronto chefs. But it's time the average mussel lover got to know them. 

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California offers us saints and zinners

By Gordon Stimmell

Gradually, the typical high alcohol, pruney, cooked tasting wines from a grape that is synonymous with California are transforming into more silky, consumer-friendly reds, and achieving complexity without overwhelming the palate.

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Eating with your eyes

By Amy Pataki

At home, it also pays to make food look good. Try these tricks, lifted from the pros: Use simple white plates, saving colour for the food. Ladle stew on to a bed of mashed potatoes, not beside. Serve condiments in small steel or ceramic bowls. Dust a dessert bowl of berries with icing sugar.

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Getting sloppy and then spicy

By Jennifer Bain

Recipes:

* Spicy Cocoa Sloppy Joes

* Smoked Paprika Chicken Thighs

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Study detects guilt in the produce section

According to a new study, 14 per cent of Ontario women feel a little guilty when they buy cheaper, conventionally grown fruit and vegetables for the family instead of organic produce.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – April 12, 2006

Sink or swim

By Susan Sampson

You'd think this iconic Jewish dish would be simple to prepare. Not so. Perfection is elusive. In fact, some say that the matzo ball is the dish by which Jewish cooks are ultimately judged. True or not, the matzo ball does have its own mystique. That and its mate, chicken soup. On the Jewish table, there's nary a bowl of chicken soup without one.

For more information:

* Matzo Ball Secrets

* The package technique

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The little shiraz that could

Wine critic Gord Stimmell's picks today include his top-rated value red under $15.

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Eating Easter eggs and talking turkey

By Jennifer Bain

Twice a year (Thanksgiving and Christmas) may no longer be enough for turkey lovers. Supermarkets are bringing in the festive bird — along with the usual hams, rabbits and lamb legs — for Easter.

Recipes:

* Maple Roasted Turkey With Cornbread Stuffing

* Pasta Cake

* Eggs in Polenta

* Savoury Corn Muffins

[TPO]

Toronto Star – April 19, 2006

The state of our Mexican food

By Jennifer Bain

We brag long and loud about our multicultural buffet, and yet shamefacedly admit most of our Mexican restaurants are dismal. We have no gourmet Mexican eateries, and none showcases that country's regional cuisine.

For more information:

* Meals inspired by Mexico

* Where to eat and buy Mexican food

* Mexican by way of Chicago

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Sink or swim

By Susan Sampson

Passover has many ancient rituals. Like discussing the matzo balls at dinner.

For more information:

* Matzo Ball Secrets

* The package technique

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The wine mating game

By Gordon Stimmell

Should you try to match your wine to the food or your food to the wine? This always depends on the situation.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – April 26, 2006

Speed under pressure

Pressure cookers still mystify many people, but they're also experiencing a quiet resurgence

By Cynthia David

It's not often that a cooking gadget strikes fear in the hearts of home cooks, but then there's never been a pot quite like the pressure cooker, which is experiencing a quiet resurgence in North America.

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The assembly line

By Susan Sampson

There's a new antidote to dinnertime panic. It's called SupperWorks, and it's luring women with a hook called meal assembly.

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Keeping it in the (wine) family

By Gordon Stimmell

This week's selections — the best tasted from many newcomers to all shelves — are each from a family of wines.

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At hot pot, it's all up to you

Judy Gerstel reviews iCook Buffet in Markham.

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This diner has an Iranian twist

Christian Cotroneo reviews lunch at Millie's Place on Sherbourne Street.

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Hot in pursuit of Dogfish

By Jon Filson

When I started writing about beer a few years ago, I promised myself that I wouldn't become one of those writers who specialized in beers no one has ever heard of that were equally impossible to find.

[TPO]

Toronto Star – May 3, 2006

Cookie contest

Fourteen judges. Fourteen cookies. Which one will win the Good Food Festival's chocolate chip cookie contest?

By Jennifer Bain

This was, after all, a family contest. To enter, a parent had to team up with a child (aged 6 to 12) and bring in one dozen cookies for judging (to earn up to 70 "tasting" points) and another dozen cookies artfully displayed (to earn up to 30 "presentation" points).

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Celebrating Beard

By Amy Pataki

Movie stars have their Oscars, musicians have Grammys and chefs have the James Beard Awards.

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Toronto Taste lands at Hangar

By Susan Sampson

Toronto Taste takes flight June 11 at The Hangar at Downsview Park. This is the most unusual venue for the annual gala, which raises funds for Second Harvest.

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County emerges from long winter

By Gordon Stimmell

Three bone-chilling winters have slashed expectations, devastated young vines and sobered the reality of folks struggling to achieve their dreams.

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Judgment day in beer world

By Jon Filson

Most beer awards — like the Canadian Brewing Awards, the judging of which happened this past weekend in Markham, or the recent World Beer Cup — worth bragging about are done by an official judge, certified by the Beer Judge Certification Program. You can see http://www.bjcp.com for details of the program and for its descriptions of what to look for in various kinds of beers.

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Drink through a glass, darkly

By Jon Filson

Basically, a beer medal tells you a beer is well-made. You have to decide for yourself if well-made translates into "good."

In Black Jack's case, I'd say it's both. 

[TPO]

Toronto Star – May 10, 2006

Welcoming walleye season

By Jennifer Bain

We'll always have the hats. "We" being the anglers who didn't land any prize walleye or pike, or even drop a line in the water, at last weekend's 26th annual Walleye World derby.

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Eatiquette lessons

By Jennifer Bain

So many thanks to the unknown noodler who sidled over. He showed me how to bow my head over the bowl, chopstick a whack of noodles into my mouth, chomp down firmly, and let the ends of the noodles fall into the bowl.

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Rub it, then smoke it

Judy Gerstel reviews Memphis BBQ in Woodbridge.

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Camping crowd goes for canned convenience

By Jon Filson

A camping beer must be versatile. You want something to help you feel refreshed after a hike, and something you can sip around a fire, too.

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The untold tale of spud nutrition

By Susan Sampson

Sure, Canadians over age 55 remain loyal to the spud: they eat potatoes an average of 2.4 times a week. But the younger crowd eats them only 1.8 times a week, according to a recent survey.

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Indian food served with slice of real life

Susan Sampson reviews Mangoes & Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through the Great Subcontinent by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid.

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Doesn't your mom deserve a cookie?

By Susan Sampson

Wanda Beaver knows her way around cookies. The Toronto baker invented these heavenly Dulce de Leche Macaroons and served them at the recent ticket launch for Toronto Taste.

Recipe:

Dulce de Leche Macaroons