Danube

[Pan]

So what's topfen?

I like elderflowers, incidentally.

[mjc]

topfen is the austrian name for quark, its a cows milk pot cheese

[Mark Sommelier]

topfen is the austrian name for quark, its a cows milk pot cheese

In Vienna, ask for topfengulatschen. These are what we call cheese danish. They are addictive. Palatschincken is merely the greatest dessert on the planet.

[MonsieurSatran]

Has anyone been to Danube recently? I'm going tonight, and was wondering if I could get any suggestions as to what's goodm, what to order etc. Thanks!

[xyz123]

Has anyone been to Danube recently? I'm going tonight, and was wondering if I could get any suggestions as to what's goodm, what to order etc. Thanks!

How was your dinner Monsieur

[MonsieurSatran]

It was excellent! I meant to report earlier, but I couldn't find the time...

Our reservation was for 6:30, but we were in the area slightly earlier, so we decided to go into the cocktail lounge to "Celebrate Gemutlichkeit"- i.e. get free Danube cocktails and hors d'oeuvre from 5-7 PM mon-fri. The Danube Cocktail was pleasently sweet, with a great elderflower- champagne ratio. Better, however, were the oxtail streudels we were served for hors d'oeuvres. Though I don't usually like Oxtail, these were a great combo of flaky crust and incredibly moist oxtail. A problem, however, was the service in the lounge- it was flakier than the streudel, and even at some points rude. They forgot our order several times.

Once this was finished, however, we were taken to the dining room, where we were seated in a superlative table at the very corner of the room. The seats were very comfortable, and the decor was downright gorgeous., if a bit opulent. The paintings were in fact very Klimt-esque, and quite striking. The overall effect was that of an Archduke of Austria with the best decorator in the world circa 1890.

I decided to order the Tasting Menu, while the rest of my family ordered a la carte. First, we were presented with a small amuse of a cube of just slightly cooked salmon with a mustard crust and cucmber puree beneath. It was light and deft, though not as flavorful as I might hope an amuse to be. This was followed by a very pleasent bread sevice which included Pretzels

Our waiter, by the way, was very kind and efficient, as were all the bussers, maitre d's, etc - with the regrettable exception of our cocktail waitress.

Back to the food front, next came the appetizer. Mine was Freshly Harpooned Sashimi Quality Bluefin Tuna and Hamachi with Key Lime Pickled Onion, Organic Roasted Beets and Horseradish Fromage Blanc, which sounds rather gradiose, but was in actuality quite simple. I believe on the menu at the restaurant, there may have been a couple other elements- pumpkin seed, mustard dressing etc. This was perhaps the worst dish I tasted, as it the sashimi was cut too thin, to the point of stinginess, and the entire effect was simply too wan. I wished that some of the elements had been just a bit bigger- one pumpkin seed does not add anything, for example. I also tried

the foie gras appetizer, which three of the fiev at my table ordered, and it was excellently done- very buttery, and the brulee of foie gras was interesting touch.

As I was the only one ordering a tasting menu, I was served a fish course while others had empty plates , which made me feel especially bad when I was presented with one of the best dishes I have ever had- Almond Crusted Atlantic Halibut with Kohlrabi Purée, Confit of Fennel and Green Asparagus and Tahitian Vanilla. Not only was the halibut done to perfect lucious moistness and with a unique almond coating, all the other elements blended seemlessly into perefection. An interesting touch were the asparagus, which were tiny baby asparagus, though they had great flavor. This was a fresh and utterly impressive dish, truly worthy of David Bouley's name.

I was quite blissed out after this, so I barely noticed when I was presented with my entree, New York Strip Loin with Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Pearl Onion and Red Wine Shallot Purée. This was nicely prepared, though not astounding. The pieces of foie gras were tucked in between slices of juicy, rare strip loin, and all were set over a foamy jus-based sauce with red wine. My sister loooooved her Maine Day Boat Lobster with Sunchoke, Mango, Shiitake Mushrooms and a Saffron Curry Broth, which she declared to be one of her favorite dishes ever.

By this time, everyone was fairly stuffed, but we continued on to our marvelous deserts. These were momentarily preceded by an elderflower soup with apricot granita and fromage blanc sobet, a nice palate cleanser. My real dessert is not on the online menu, so I cannot quite recall the entire thing, but it involved stawberry-rhubarb gratin and white asperagus ice cream. I do remember that it was nicely creamy, with just the right amount of tangy rhubarb, and that after eating it, I was very stuffed. Another standout dessert was the Crisp Caramel Strudel with Bartlett Pears, Aged Balsamic and Riesling Ice Cream, ordered by my mom and brother. They adored it, and my small taste was quite good, but too sweet for me. A nice touch was the complimentariy dessert given to my sister, who had declined to order one. It was the very light and fruity Pinapple Sorbet with Pernod Marshmellow, Candied Violets and Kumquats, perfect for her little overfull belly.

Finally, I managed to stuff in a couple of nice, but not great, mignardaises

We had a great time, and to cap it off, we were given little free lemony pound cakes, which we ate for breakfast the next day- another beautiful touch in a night full of them.

[oakapple]

I had a wonderful dinner at Danube last night. A vendor was buying, and he asked if I had a favorite. I approach my restaurant life a little differently. An invitation to dinner is opportunity to try someplace I've never been. Danube came immediately to mind.

This is one of those restaurants that hardly ever attracts an unfavorable comment. It is almost universally adored, and for good reason. From its Klimmt-inspired décor to its impeccable service, everything at Danube is well thought out and smartly executed. Whether it's a romantic occasion, a business dinner, or a birthday celebration, Danube delivers a memorable experience.

The amuse bouche was a tiny salmon square on a bed of avocado cream. To start, my dining companion and I both chose the what I called the double foie gras ($19), which came with a conventional seared Hudson Valley foie gras and an odd confection called "Crème Brûlée of Foie Gras with Harvest Corn Goulash." If you love foie gras, then twice as much of it is heaven. My only complaint is that the crème brûlée was at an in-between temperature: it had been allowed to cool a bit too long.

I almost never order Wiener Schnitzel, but I figured that if any restaurant was going to make it memorable, Danube would. (I also concluded that if you're at an Austrian-themed restaurant, you should try some Austrian food. My colleague concluded the same, and ordered the goulash.) The Wiener Schnitzel came with austrian crescent potatoes, cucumber salad, and a lingonberry sauce. I must say that I was initially underwhelmed, but the dish grew on me, and I was sad to take the last bite. The light breading was just perfectly fluffy, the veal succulent and tender. Still, part of me wondered if this really deserved to be a $30 entrée.

Desserts at Danube are mostly Austro-Germanic specialities, such as Caramel Strudel and Sacher Torte. I tried a pina colada ice cream dish, which is not shown on the restaurant's website, and I can't quite recall how it was put together. After this, a plate full of chocolates arrived, which I struggled (in vain) to resist.

Danube offers a vast array of menus. As at many uscale restaurants, the first page shows the tasting menu (five courses, $75; or, $135 with wine pairings). The nine-course degustation is $95. A four-course seasonal menu is $55. There are three à la carte sections of the menu: the Austrian specialties, "Modern Eclectic," and the chef's weekly market choices. Appetizers are $9-19; entrées are $26-35.

You'll pay handsomely for your experience at Danube, but it is well worth it. A glance at the bill showed a bottom line of $270, which included more wine than was strictly necessary. But then, there's no point in doing Danube half-way. Go and enjoy yourself.

Edited October 1, 2004 by oakapple (log)

[emilymarie]

A friend and I went to Danube for lunch one Sunday (maybe 2 and a half years ago now) and paid $35/person for a 5 course menu. If I recall we could make a reservation during restricted hours only (we ate in the middle of the afternoon). But the meal was worth more than two times what we paid, based on the quality of the food and the huge portions. I remember most vividly the goulash and the accompanying spaetzle, both of which melted in my mouth.

Does the restaurant still have this special offer going? It was an amazing opportunity.

[Todd36]

Anyone been lately? I was very happy there with my last experience (about 6 months ago) and am planning to take a friend there this week. Seems better than Bouley to me. Any views?

[Megan Blocker]

Two of my best friends took me to dinner here tonight as a belated birthday present. The food was excellent, and so was the service...until they took our dessert order and promptly forgot about us. Our port and moscat finally arrived when dessert and the post-dessert treats were gone.

I started with the week's market appetizer of seared foie gras and a foie gras creme brulee. The seared foie was good; the creme brulee was exquisite. It managed to be light as air and incredibly rich at the same time. My companions started with the "schlutzkrapfen," which are cheese ravioli. They were excellent - they tasted like essence of bacon chased by cheese.

For my main, I had braised beef cheeks off of the Austrian menu; they were good, but I am becoming more and more of the opinion that a braise is a braise - yummy, but not that different from any other well-executed braise. The garlic and chive spaetzle along side was, however, excellent. Next time, I'll follow my friend Hall's lead and order the weiner schnitzel. It was amazing. The veal itself had a light, airy breading. The potato salad it came with was tangy, but still had depth, and the lingonberry sauce was to die for.

Dessert was ok - we split a caramel tart, liwanzen (blinis) and chocolate-hazelnut cake between the three of us. All three were good, but not anything to write home about. The post-dessert treats. however, were quite yummy, especially a light cocoa-hazelnut cake.

When the Taylor Fladgate finally came, it was yummy. All in all, a lovely evening. The room is gorgeous - easily the prettiest dining room I've experienced in NYC in years. Definitely a good, romantic spot.

Edited November 5, 2005 by Megan Blocker (log)

[Probono]

791-3771 should get through.

Regards.

the fat man

[oakapple]

Next time, I'll follow my friend Hall's lead and order the weiner schnitzel.  It was amazing.  The veal itself had a light, airy breading.  The potato salad it came with was tangy, but still had depth, and the lingonberry sauce was to die for.

←

On my only visit to Danube (about a year ago), I ordered the Wiener Schnitzel and was disappointed. It seemed merely competent, and for a $30 entrée I expected something a lot better. I also ordered the double foie gras that Megan referred to, and I considered that more successful. I'm going back to Danube in December and will try something else.

[Todd36]

I've liked Danube every time I've eaten there. I think the small size helps.

[Megan Blocker]

Next time, I'll follow my friend Hall's lead and order the weiner schnitzel.  It was amazing.  The veal itself had a light, airy breading.  The potato salad it came with was tangy, but still had depth, and the lingonberry sauce was to die for.

←

On my only visit to Danube (about a year ago), I ordered the Wiener Schnitzel and was disappointed. It seemed merely competent, and for a $30 entrée I expected something a lot better. I also ordered the double foie gras that Megan referred to, and I considered that more successful. I'm going back to Danube in December and will try something else.

←

Oakapple, I agree that the double foie gras was better - but the weiner schnitzel was definitely the best I've had on this side of the Atlantic! I mean, it's still weiner schnitzel, but it's GOOD weiner schnitzel.

[ludja]

wiener schnitzel...

(It can be difficult to remember if you don't speak German, but a pronunciation pneumonic I heard of a long time ago was, "EIsenhower's nIEce".)

Glad you had a nice b-day celebration, Megan. This restaurant is on my list to try sometime soon.

[oakapple]

I visited Danube for the second time last night. It remains a wonderful restaurant for a special occasion. The Klimmt-inspired décor is a gem, although it occurred to me that curtains in the main dining room would be an improvement. It almost spoils the atmosphere to look out the windows and see gloomy Hudson Street outside.

Although Danube is a beautiful room—arguably one of the city's nicest (it shares the top Zagat rating of 28 for décor)—it is not a large space. As at many New York restaurants, you could easily reach out and touch your neighbors at adjoining tables. Luckily, the room is not loud. I don't know if it's because diners are speaking in hushed tones, or because the heavy carpeting and tapestries absorb the sound.

There are three a la carte menus at Danube: Austrian, Modern Eclectic, and the Chef's Market Choice. Each has two or three appetizers and anywhere between two and five main courses. You are not required to order your entire meal from the same menu. Appetizers are $9-19, but most are under $15. Mains are $26-35.

I should note that Danube has what they describe as a "tasting menu" at $85 ($155 with paired wines), but it is actually a four-course prix fixe (appetizer, fish, meat, dessert), with the diner having two or three options for each course. Anyhow, that's not what we had on this occasion.

It is remarkable that you can have a very respectable meal at this fine restaurant for $35 total (before tax, tip, and beverages), if you order at the bottom end of the appetizers and entrées. Finding an inexpensive wine at Danube is more of a challenge, as nearly all of the selections on the long list are over $60. We found a very respectable burgundy right at $60. I thought the staff left me to struggle over the decision for rather a long time. At a restaurant of this calibre, a sommelier should come over without being asked.

The wonderful amuse bouche was a small cube of smoked salmon, with creme fraiche, cucumber salad, and mustard seed. This was a variation on the same amuse that was served the last time I was here. The server who deposited it at our table had an extremely thick accent, and we had to ask for the description twice.

The bread service was disappointing. Several choices of rolls were offered, but both that I tried were unimpressive. At Outback Steakhouse, you get a wonderful loaf of warm, freshly-baked bread. Why is it that so many high-end restaurants are content to serve perfunctory dinner rolls that taste like they were baked hours ago?

The food was a happier experience. I ordered from the Modern Eclectic menu. The restaurant is rather long-winded in its descriptions. Per the website, the appetizer was described as "Freshly Harpooned Sashimi Quality Bluefin and Hamachi Tuna, Key Lime Pickled Onion, Pumpkin Seed Oil and Sesame Mustard Dressing" ($14). This was a wonderful dish, rich and flavorful.

When the appetizer is this good, sometimes the entrée is an anti-climax, but not here. I ordered "Chestnut Honey Glazed Long Island Duck Breast with Wild Mushrooms, Corn Purée and Seared Foie Gras" ($31). The duck was luscious, tender, and enveloped in fat, while the foie gras was pure heaven.

For the record, my friend ordered two of the Austrian specialties, an Austrian ravioli ($11) and the Wiener Schnitzel ($30). She was pleased with both.

The tasting menu shows an "Elderflower Gelée with Lemon Verbena Sorbet" as a pre-dessert, and I believe this is what we were served. This was a palate-cleanser, which prepared us for the "Original Viennese Apple Strudel, Crème Anglaise and Tahitian Vanilla Ice cream" ($10). I thought this was just okay; nothing wrong with it, but rather forgettable.

Service was generally smooth and polished. Early on, I felt that we were being slightly rushed through our meal. We started with cocktails. It seemed like only a few moments before we were placing our order, receiving the amuse, and inspecting the wine—with our cocktail glasses still half full. Yet, it was over two hours later when we left, so things slowed down considerably later on.

While no one would call Danube inexpensive, overall it is very fairly priced for what you are getting. The New York Times ratings have been bastardized in recent years, and three stars isn't quite what it used to be. Danube has truly earned every one of its three stars. It is one of the city's best fine dining experiences.

Edited December 31, 2005 by oakapple (log)

[Pan]

[...]The restaurant is rather long-winded in its descriptions. Per the website, the appetizer was described as "Freshly Harpooned Sashimi Quality Bluefin and Hamachi Tuna, Key Lime Pickled Onion, Pumpkin Seed Oil and Sesame Mustard Dressing" ($14). This was a wonderful dish, rich and flavorful.[...]

←

That description is very pretentious, making it sound like they harpooned it and then brought it directly to the table. But the most important thing is taste, and your meal obviously had that in abundance.

[Eatmywords]

[...]The restaurant is rather long-winded in its descriptions. Per the website, the appetizer was described as "Freshly Harpooned Sashimi Quality Bluefin and Hamachi Tuna, Key Lime Pickled Onion, Pumpkin Seed Oil and Sesame Mustard Dressing" ($14). This was a wonderful dish, rich and flavorful.[...]

←

That description is very pretentious, making it sound like they harpooned it and then brought it directly to the table. But the most important thing is taste, and your meal obviously had that in abundance.

←

I don't know about you guys but when I hear "harpoon" I think lots of blood, anger and struggle. Can you say Moby Dick Mr. Bouley? Hey, is the pumpkin seed oil meant to pacify?

All jks aside, thx for the review. It's been on my list for so long (keep forgetting about it w/so many recent openings). I'll take a stab at it soon (no pun). Hey, is there a bar you can dine on?

[oakapple]

Hey, is there a bar you can dine on?

←

There is a lounge, which is very elegant in its own right, but I don't believe it serves a full menu.

[Felonius]

Hey, is there a bar you can dine on?

←

There is a lounge, which is very elegant in its own right, but I don't believe it serves a full menu.

←

Not sure if they'll serve you a full meal seated at the bar, but I have had one while dining alone at one of the small tables in the bar area.

For those trying Danube for the first time, I recommend their Danube cocktail (sparkling wine with elderflower essence) as an aperitif.

[gaf]

So Blue New York City Entry #69

Walking into David Bouley's Austrian restaurant, Danube, is a joke. One faces an azure wall: Blue Danube.

Situated at the crossroads of Bouleywood - near Upstairs, the Bakery and Market, and the scarlet mother church - Danube is surely among the most glittering and compelling restaurant spaces in Manhattan. One has a disconcerting sense that the space sells, not the dishes. The webpage begins, "Danube restaurant, which received the number one ranking for decor in the Zagat Survey of New York City Restaurants, was created by Chef David Bouley in collaboration with Parisian designer Jacques Garcia and New York architect Kevin White." Well, first things first. Bouley's Chef de Cuisine, Mario Lohniger, is not mentioned. Lohniger is the potted plant hid by Fin de Siecle Art Nouveau wallpaper, curtains, and furniture.

Having recently had a fine meal at Kurt Gutenbrunner's Wallsé, the pair beg for comparison. Gutenbrunner expands from the core of Austrian cooking tradition. He strives for a New Austrian cuisine. On the basis of nine courses on the Danube's Seasonal Menu, an Austrian influence was only lightly felt. To be sure, Danube also offers an "Austrian menu" (two dishes of which appeared on the seasonal tasting menu), and these dishes sound more mittel European. However, in contrast to Wallsé, Danube is more subtle; its aspirations are higher (with a modestly higher price point). Danube's are busier, filled with touches and curlicues, crowded with ingredients. Perhaps the dishes are only slightly more memorable at Danube, but they were certainly intended to be. Service was more refined with more staff than strictly needed. At Danube one doesn't get to know one's waiter. Service is a team sport.

Dining with my wife, I thought that I would be clever. She ordered the Tasting Menu, and I ordered the Chef's Seasonal Degustation Menu ("available upon request"). This suggested that the chef's inspiration would be based on Greenmarket availability. I could see his mental synapses firing. Instead, the degustation was a longer version of the tasting menu with a few dishes cribbed from other menus. I should have asked, or, better yet, been told.

The Amuse Bouche started in Bouley fashion with a smash of flavor: a bit of fresh salmon, a touch of creme fraiche, a fleck of pickled cucumber, and a dab of grainy mustard. With these ingredients, I checked to see that I wasn't at Aquavit, but no, this compelling bite had the deep tastes that Chef Bouley favors.

I began with a signature dish, "Freshly Harpooned Sashimi Quality Bluefin Tuna and Hamachi with Key Lime Pickled Onion with Organic Roasted Beets and Horseradish Fromage Blanc." As beautiful as this dish appeared on the plate, it improved in the mouth. It gathered big tastes, and demonstrated that they could work in harmony. I prized the exquisite beets and horseradish baton. The composition with the tuna and hamachi was irresistible. If it was not notable Germanic, it was sublime.

Next arrived "Pan Seared Diver Sea Scallop and New England Crabmeat with a Paradeiser Coriander and Lemon Thyme Sauce." Paradeiser is Austrian, it is true, but the tastes would only be known to diners in Wien. It is not part of the imagined Austrian flavor profile. The sauce, Viennese or not, was remarkable. The scallop was ordinary, but the lush and spring-like Paradeiser worked magic. Thyme waits for no man.

"Gently Heated Wild King Salmon with Stryrian "Wruzelgemüse" (Zucchini, Yellow Squash and Chives), Apple Rosemary Purée and Horseradish-Chive Sauce" was less stirring, in part because of the aftertaste of horseradish from the first dish. Here the horseradish was combined with the mild salmon, and was overwhelming. This small dish had too many flavors in play, leaving a mush confederation.

The least satisfactory dish of the night was "Maine Day Boat Lobster with Salted Spinach, Mango, Saffron Curry Broth, Hon-Shimeji Mushrooms, and Coconut Foam. Just the ingredients suggest the problem. Chef Bouley doesn't believe in the cuisine of essences; at his most naughty, he proffers a hectic cuisine. The dish most notably failed as a textural composition. I found the both shimeji mushrooms and the foam slimy. Add an embarrassing, if excusable, bit of shell, demonstrating the authenticity of the lobster. This dish could best be admired from afar.

My fifth dish was recruited from the Austrian menu, "Carinthia ‘Schlutzkrapfen' High Altitude Austrian Cheese Ravioli with Harvest Corn Foam, Maitake Mushrooms, Spinach, and Pumpkin Seeds." Given that Schlutzkrapfen is German ravioli, this high-falutin' label explains that I was served Carinthian High Altitude Ravioli Ravioli. Had my server a stronger command of English I might have inquired about the relative advantages of high and low altitude ravioli, but that query must wait. Here Bouley's mash was a happy one. I particularly admired the addition of the meaty Maitake Mushrooms and the corn sauce, melding definitively with the cheese pasta.

The meat plate, "Roasted Rack of Colorado Lamb with Organic Barley, Glazed Asparagus, Roasted Cippolini Onion and Fresh Tarragon Lamb Sauce," was a work of art. As with the scallop, the sauce was magnificent. Chef Bouley is a budding herbalist. The tarragon jus proved to be one of the strongest accompaniments to a rack of lamb in my memory. This dish triumphed because the center and periphery belonged together, not as strangers in the night. One expected that a restaurant like Danube would serve tender Lamb, but the tender barley was an inspiration.

As a palate cleanser I was served "Elderflower Gelée with Lemon Verbena Sorbet with Blood Orange Slices." The dish was a sourpuss. If it was not striking, it effectively scrubbed one's tongue. I was unimpressed with the sorbet, which had an off-texture. Perhaps it soaked up some of the gelatinous elderflowers, but it lacked the gracious smoothness of the best sorbet.

My two desserts were represented Danube at its most and least triumphant (I find no indicator of the identity of our pastry chef). Tahitian Vanilla Parfait with Pumpkin Seed Oil, Poached Seckel Pear and Pomegranate Seeds was attractive, but not appealing. The marshmallow-like burnt caramel topping was salty and stringy, the ice cream was more heavily frozen than optimal, and - perhaps from the pumpkin seed oil - I noticed an off-bitter taste.

In contrast the Crispy Caramel Strudel with Bartlett Pears, Aged Balsamic and Moscato D'Asti Ice Cream was a pleasure. The strudel was Austrian mille-feuille to which the sweet old vinegar brought an electric jolt. This ice cream was as dreamy as the vanilla ice cream had been lumpen. I will not soon forget the combination.

Despite the frequently exceptional food, it is hard not to feel that Danube is a conceit. A strutting peacock restaurant makes diners forget that designers and architects stand behind chefs, not before them. Not every restauranteur needs a Calatrava. Certainly a stunning decor contributes to feeling repose or amazement, but one should be wowed by the plates. This night, sometimes yes, sometimes no.

Yet, when I reread my report of an earlier meal at Bouley, I realize that I now rhapsodize about that meal more than my text might suggest. Some meals rise in recall, others fade. Perhaps a sense of occasion matters more than we might imagine. We chew the scenery. Could Shoeless Joe's adage be true: Build it and we will come.

Danube

30 Hudson Street (at Duane Street)

Manhattan (TriBeCa)

212-791-3771

My Webpage: Vealcheeks

[Sneakeater]

FWIW, Mario Lohniger isn't mentioned on the menu at Danube because he's been gone for something like a year. His replacement was (I think) a sou-chef from somewhere in the Bouley organization who has much less of an individual "identity" than Lohniger.

Edited February 12, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[gaf]

Thanks for the correction. I searched to find out who the Executive Chef was. On the Bouley website under Publications (not under Danube) Mario is described as "Executive Chef." Just shows the trouble one gets in by believing what one reads on the Net. I guess he was when East of Paris was published.

[Sneakeater]

Right, and under "Danube" nobody is identified. I'm not accusing them of being actively misleading or anything. I'm just saying.

[mjc]

J. D. Hilburn is the Chef at Danube.

Alex Grunert is the exec pastry chef at Bouley and Danube.