Anniversary dinner at Mistral...

[tighe]

A long overdue account of the anniversary dinner that scrat and I enjoyed at Mistral towards the end of April. The food is probably the best, and certainly the most refined, that I’ve had in Seattle. Chef Belickis and his staff create a first-class dining experience that lacks pretension and the Chef himself is unexpectedly gracious and obviously passionate about what he does.

Amuse

Maine Lobster with Mango and Cucumber in a Sesame Soy Wrap, served with a Raspberry Coulis

We somehow failed to get a picture of this dish, which is a shame. Beautifully cooked, very sweet morsels of lobster delicately wrapped with diced mango and cucumber.

First Course

Maine Sea Scallop dusted with homemade Orange Powder, with English Pea Soup and Carrot Essence

The scallop was seared so that the orange powder became a crust while the sweetness of the peas and carrots blended with the sweetness of the scallop. The purity of flavor and freshness that was brought out in the pea soup and carrot essence reminded me of some of the dishes I’ve had at The Herb Farm. This picture shows what this dish would have looked like if I had dropped acid beforehand, not sure what happened. This was probably my favorite dish of the evening.

Second Course

Prawns bathed in Olive Oil with Rosemary and Preserved Lemon, served on a bed of Eggplant, Capers, Red and Yellow Bell Peppers with Syrian Sumac, shaved Fennel, Red Pearl Onions and Thyme

A fascinating dish made all the more so because Chef Belickis plated it table-side for us, explaining that, rather than being cooked, the prawns were allowed to ‘bathe’ in 120 degree olive oil, along with rosemary and lemon rind, on the side of the stove for 20 minutes. The result was an extremely tender and flavorful prawn.

Third Course

Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Strawberry Rhubarb Compote and Pineapple Reduction, served with Hawaiian Big Island Sea Salt and a hint of Mint

The sweet and sour of the rhubarb was a perfect compliment to the foie gras, accented by the pineapple reduction that was a mere sheen on the plate. This was scrat’s favorite dish, I believe.

Fourth Course

South Carolina Squab with Fingerling Potato Purée, Swiss Chard and Morel Mushrooms

The squab was delicious, but the potato puree was what really caught our imagination on this plate. The Chef explained the incredibly labor-intensive process for creating these distant relatives of the mashed potatoes I’ve encountered before. Lets just say that if you’re concerned about your fat intake, best to skip these, although that would be very sad indeed.

Cheese Course

Ossau Inatery (cow)

Pave de Joelis (goat)

St. Agur Bleu (cow)

Fromagez des Clarines (cow)

I’m embarrassed to admit that I don’t recall the characteristics of the individual cheeses, but I do remember ooh’ing and ahh’ing my way through the entire plate.

Dessert Course

Chocolate Soufflé with Pineapple and Strawberry Sorbet, Lavender Ice Cream and Fresh Strawberries and Pineapple

All those chefs out there that have been rolling out various versions of chocolate soufflé/molten chocolate cake things need to pack it in. The competition is over. We have a winner. The lavender ice cream was remarkable in that the smell of lavender, which I love, was captured utterly in the flavor.

With dinner we had two excellent bottles of wine. With the first half of the meal we had a Grand Crus Chablis (the maker is escaping me at the moment). An amazingly versatile wine that seemed to harmonize with all the dishes it accompanied. For the second half of the meal we had a bottle of ’99 Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Very good, though maybe a little young. With the foie gras course, we were each given a glass of Tokaj (sp?) which I thought was an even better match than sauternes. After seeing these wines in the store, I was impressed to see that Mistral’s markup is very reasonable, priced about 50% more than retail.

Edited June 13, 2003 by tighe (log)

[Schielke]

Tighe,

Thanks for that great review! Katie and I were reading it last night and we really wanted to drive right over and have dinner at Mistral right then.

It looks like you got a great sampling of what they can do at Mistral. His scallops are always amazing and that preperation sounds great! And you are correct about the warm chocolate cake. It is the definitive by which all others should be measured.

Ben

[Ling]

I had an extraordinary meal at Mistral last night. The dishes that came out of that kitchen were well thought out, expertly executed, and the flavour combinations were refreshing and interesting. The service exemplified everything I look for at a fine dining restaurant--informative without being stuffy, unobtrusive, and friendly. I read a few EG reviews before posting this, and some diners have commented that the food at Mistral is on par with the 3-stars in France. While I haven't yet had the opportunity to dine at the 3-star level, I must say that our meal last night was better than our recent meal at The French Laundry.

We started with an amuse of o-toro and sushi rice ice-cream and lime zest. Of all the dishes we had last night, this was the only one that fell a little flat. The ice-cream did not have any sugar in it, but I didn't think it paired very well with the tuna.

We had forgotten our camera, but Chef William offered to take pictures for us. Not only did we get photos of our food, but he included some shots of our food during the prep as well!

1st course: Foie gras panna cotta with tarragon, toasted pinenuts, and sweet corn foam. Laurent-Perrier brut champagne

(There was also the tiniest bit of mint in the dish, which brightened up the flavours.) My bf and I couldn't stop talking about this dish last night--it is quite possibly the best thing either of us have ever tasted. The panna cotta was very loose (i.e. held together with a very small amount of gelatin.) This is a dish the chef de cuisine, Charles Walpole, had been playing around with and I hope it becomes a permanent item on the menu as it's just too good! I think I swore in disbelief after I took my first bite.

This is what it looks like before the foam is spooned over it.

2nd course: Roasted scallop with hot tomato jelly and herbs, fennel puree, burnt scallion oil La Chablisienne '02 Chablis (Vaillon)

The scallop was seared very lightly in the pan and then finished in the oven. The combination of the sweet jelly and the earthy puree was incredible. I can't recall when I've enjoyed a scallop dish more. The wine--with its hint of oyster shell--was perfect with the scallop.

3rd course: Pea soup with shrimp ceviche style, carrot foam

I was really looking forward to the pea soup, as it's only served with the peas are fresh at the Market--a testament to the level of quality in the ingredients. The pea soup is often served with a seared scallop, but we got the shrimp instead, and I'm very glad we did. The shrimp was just cooked on the outside from the hot soup, retaining that sweet creaminess of the raw flesh on the inside.

(kitchen shot)

4th course: Roasted belly of white salmon with asparagus, fava beans, rice beans, beet, vanilla, and 25 year old balsamic vinaigrette Du Mol Chardonay '03 Russian Iver Sonoma

This particular wine went beautifully with the salmon rich salmon belly. The bit of vanilla in the dish, in particular, seemed to bring out the sweet nose on the wine. This was my favourite wine pairing of the evening.

5th course: Seared artisan foie gras with '97 Quarels Harris port, Demerara

sugar, rhubarb puree, crispy apple chip Castel Nau De Suiduraut 2001 sauternes

The portion of foie gras was generous. I don't even have to say anything about how perfectly it was seared, as the picture says it all.

Love this shot of the prep:

6th course: Roasted squab breast with fingerling potato puree, swiss chard and white carrots cooked in carrot juice, zahtar spice Beaux Freres 2004 Pinot Noir (upper terrace Willamette Valley)

I apologize there's no close-up shot of this dish. The squab was incredibly tender, and seared to a medium-rare, which was the perfect doneness for me. I also loved the bit of zahtar spice on the plate, which gave the dish another dimension. The wine also went very nicely with this dish, and it was interesting to note a distinct fungal aroma in a young New World pinot.

hhlodesign obviously enjoyed this dish very much--check out the faux pas. Miss Manners is rolling over in her grave. (The breads served were both from Macrina--one had a slight sourness, though it wasn't sourdough, and the other was the potato bread--one of my favourite Seattle breads. )

With our desserts, we had a bottle of the Laurent-Perrier demi sec split. (The chef told us the winemakers don't ferment all the sugar in this particular wine.)

The cheese plate was excellent, though the only cheese I remember is the Comte! (Oops.) Served with a candied Marcona almond, red pepper jelly (there was citrus in this...orange?), and pear. The bread is the cranberry walnut bread from Macrina.

The first dessert was date toffee cake with caramel dust and vanilla ice-cream. I dove right into it before I remembered to take a picture, oops...a little too eager there. The caramel dust was a really interesting part of this composition, echoing the caramel in the sauce while adding crunch as well!

(It was so good that I scooped another date toffee cake, this one with Earl Grey caramel and buttermilk ice-cream. )

The second...(er, third dessert) was cantaloupe jellee, mango ribbon, mango and cantaloupe sorbet...just pure, fresh fruit flavours.

Next came the hazelnut pound cake with orange foam and apricot jelly. I missed the description of what was in the shot glass, but it tasted like a very custardy, loose panna cotta. The hazelnut pound cake was incredible, and unlike any other pound cake I've had before. There was almost no crumb--it so dense and smooth, almost like the best cake batter ever, but without the taste of raw flour. I don't know how Stacey, the pastry chef, did this but I loved it!

We then had a fun dessert that was a play on the pea soup we had earlier in the evening. It looks very similar, but this was fennel and coconut soup with passion fruit marshmallow, and carrot. Very creative, and the flavours worked well together. The best part was the passion fruit marshmallow.

I neglected to get a picture of the last dessert--Chocolate brownie ice cream with passion fruit sorbet and brownie. Brownies in ice-cream form! With a brownie underneath! Needless to say, it was the perfect ending to the perfect meal.

Edited May 28, 2006 by Ling (log)

[hhlodesign]

This is what it looks like before the foam is spooned over it.

And after:

I can't rave enough about this dish! I had mentioned to Charles (the Chef de Cuisine) that my favorite foie gras preparation so far in my life had been the foie gras creme brule at Danube in NY. It is a savory dish with sweet corn in the custard. I have been raving about it for years. I admire that fact that Charles took this as a challenge to not only top my Danube dish, but top it with a similar dish. This is one of the most creative dishes I've ever seen! Another being his sweet take on the classic Mistral Pea soup (see below). The sweet corn foam was the perfect compliment to the cold panna cotta, and the pine nuts adding the perfect amount of texture and taste. Tarragon and a slight hint of mint just made the dish perfect. This is quite possibly the best item I had ever eaten!

6th course: Roasted squab breast with fingerling potato puree, swiss chard and white carrots cooked in carrot juice, zahtar spice  Beaux Freres 2004 Pinot Noir (upper terrace Willamette Valley)

I apologize there's no close-up shot of this dish. The squab was incredibly tender, and seared to a medium-rare, which was the perfect doneness for me. I also loved the bit of zahtar spice on the plate, which gave the dish another dimension. The wine also went very nicely with this dish, and it was interesting to note a distinct fungal aroma in a young New World pinot.

Luckily, William has a 6 megapixel camera, so we can glean close-ups from the original pictures:

hhlodesign obviously enjoyed this dish very much--check out the faux pas. Miss Manners is rolling over in her grave.   (The breads served were both from Macrina--one had a slight sourness, though it wasn't sourdough, and the other was the potato bread--one of my favourite Seattle breads.  )

I make no appologies! It was too good to leave sauce on the plate. Espescially when you have Macrina potato bread to soak it up with.

The cheese plate was excellent, though the only cheese I remember is the Comte! (Oops.) Served with a candied Marcona almond, red pepper jelly (there was citrus in this...orange?), and pear. The bread is the cranberry walnut bread from Macrina.

The blue is a Perisieil di Beaujolais. Quite possibly my favorite blue cheese. Maybe because it was incredibly salty. The ones I remember were akind of Munstrer, an aged gouda, and I forgot the rest. All were good.

Next came the hazelnut pound cake with orange foam and apricot jelly. I missed the description of what was in the shot glass, but it tasted like a very custardy, loose panna cotta. The hazelnut pound cake was incredible, and unlike any other pound cake I've had before. There was almost no crumb--it so dense and smooth, almost like the best cake batter ever, but without the taste of raw flour. I don't know how Stacey, the pastry chef, did this but I loved it!

the item in the shot glass was the orange foam and apricot jelly on top.

We then had a fun dessert that was a play on the pea soup we had earlier in the evening. It looks very similar, but this wasfennel and coconut soup with passion fruit marshmallow, and carrot. Very creative, and the flavours worked well together. The best part was the passion fruit marshmallow.

The classic version of the Mistral pea soup is served with a seared scallop in the middle of the bowl:

I love the idea of making a dessert version of the same dish. Not only did the dish resemble its savory counterpart, but the flavors really worked well together. So it was not just gimmicky, but was a dessert that could stand on its own without the gimmick.

This might have been the best meal I've ever had in my life!

Edited May 28, 2006 by hhlodesign (log)

[hhlodesign]

2nd course: Roasted scallop with hot tomato jelly and herbs, fennel puree, burnt scallion oil La Chablisienne '02 Chablis (Vaillon)

The scallop was seared very lightly in the pan and then finished in the oven. The combination of the sweet jelly and the earthy puree was incredible. I can't recall when I've enjoyed a scallop dish more. The wine--with its hint of oyster shell--was perfect with the scallop.

I should also point out that they used a special gelatin called agar agar which can withstand heat without melting. They wanted to roast the scallop in the oven with the jelly and herbs around it but needed the jelly to not melt. Such a great preparation of scallop!

Here's a close-up:

Edited May 28, 2006 by hhlodesign (log)

[Ling]

The blue is a Perisieil di Beaujolais. Quite possibly my favorite blue cheese. Maybe because it was incredibly salty. The ones I remember were akind of Munstrer, an aged gouda, and I forgot the rest. All were good.

You're right. The gouda was 4 years, I remember now. I've never had Perisieil di Beaujolais before, and it's right up there on my favourite cheese list too.

the item in the shot glass was the orange foam and apricot jelly on top

Really? The foam wasn't foamy...it was creamy. Perhaps they use an ISI whipper? I usually think Bamix when I think foam. Anyway, the meal was incredible.

[tighe]

It's too bad the photos from my original post aren't there anymore because it would show how much stylistic evolution there's been in Mistral's food over the last three years. Everything looks great, I need to go back.

Edited May 28, 2006 by tighe (log)

[Foodie-Girl]

I've been to Mistral twice. First time was to celebrate my birthday 3 years ago and again a few nights ago when my L.A. food-friend came to town for the weekend.

First time I thought WOW this is a fantastic restaurant...After Saturday night all I can say is that it was not only one of the best meals of the life but also the entire experience was phenomenal in terms of quality, imagination, presentation, taste, atmosphere, service ...interaction with the chef.

I simple can't say enough. Some of our courses were the same or very similar to what is pictured here (thanks for the GREAT photos)

Chef William offered a kitchen tour (damn the ferry schedules - we had to leave after a mere 4 1/2 hour meal) and told me all about his stove and how he does a great deal of cooking ON the stovetop rather than moving items such as lamb ribs into the oven. I learned a lot that night....

My birthday comes around again in September and I'm telling my husband I know the perfect gift...though just going to Mistral any night is a special experience.

[Pontormo]

hhlodesign obviously enjoyed this dish very much--check out the faux pas. Miss Manners is rolling over in her grave.   (The breads served were both from Macrina--one had a slight sourness, though it wasn't sourdough, and the other was the potato bread--one of my favourite Seattle breads.  )

Miss Manners is very much alive and well, although with the heat rising to 90 degrees F today, I doubt she will be wearing the silver fox coat.

I wouldn't be too hard on him, Ling. I believe it is perfectly acceptable to get that very last bit of sauce with a piece of of bread, if not a finger, or picking up the plate and licking it clean.

[Ling]

I wouldn't be too hard on him, Ling.  I believe it is perfectly acceptable to get that very last bit of sauce with a piece of of bread, if not a finger, or picking up the plate and licking it clean.

←

Of course I was joking--I swiped a bit of bread over my sauce too, but no one got a picture of that.

[Pontormo]

Oh, I know, that, Lorna.

Just wanted to set the record straight regarding Judith Martin, or Miss Manners, since she (still) lives in my own region.

ETA: I noticed the word "Dessert" appeared only three times on Mr. Lo's order in the kitchen while you reported having a total of nine desserts in the "What Did You Have...." thread. I think you hold a record, though this may not be it!

Edited May 30, 2006 by Pontormo (log)

[Ling]

^Yeah, Stacey spoiled me that night...the desserts just kept on coming! (2 of the 9 desserts I had that day were at breakfast though. )

[Ling]

Here are some of the kitchen shots the chef took for us:

corn foam for the foie gras panna cotta

fish searing and pea soup

the fish waiting to come out in the kitchen

foie waiting to be seared

[22tango]

I have to add my voice to the chorus praising Mistral's incredible food and excellent service!

Although in earlier years my husband and I ate out often and richly -- now with two very young children (one who's still not sleeping thru the night) our recent fine dining experiences are very few and far between. So when an occasion presents itself and we grab an opportunity (ie: babysitter!!!), we always turn to the advice on eGullet to find our next pilgrimage.

This past weekend we were enticed by the gorgeous photos and descriptions Henry and Ling shared above into making reservations at Mistral for my birthday dinner, and we were not disappointed.

We opted for the seven course tasting menu and were graciously treated to several extra courses complements of the chef and pastry chef in honor of my birthday and egullet connections. With the addition of the amuse and petit fours, we enjoyed twelve amazing courses in all!

Amuse

Kanpachi Sashimi topped with Apple-Tarragon Ice, Salad of Shaved Asparagus, Celery Leaves, Citrus Dressing(?)

No bite was the same, each had little bursts of flavors/textures -- wonderful contrasts yet everything harmonized. Delicious.

First Course

English Pea Soup with Seared Scallop and Carrot Foam

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (2003??)

The scallop, dusted with orange powder, was seared on one side only and then the other side finished cooking in the soup. Meltingly tender...the Cloudy Bay really made all the flavors melt together and smooth out.

Second Course

Seared Fluke on bed of Morels, torn Brussels, Favas, Broccoli, and Red Pepper-Rhubarb Sauce

Premier Cru Chablis

One of my favorites -- especially the morels with the torn vegetables, and the slightly sweet-tart sauce marrying the accompaniments to the tender fish.

Third Course

Seared Foie Gras with Hawaiian Red Sea Salt, Granny Smith Apple Chips, Roasted Pineapple and Passion Fruit Puree(?)

Sauternes (Castelnaud? 2001?)

Was this really Foie?? Completely BLEW US AWAY!! I've never been much of a foie gras fan...I've had it as a terrine at the Painted Table (helped make it myself as part of my externship), at the Herbfarm when I worked one of their Halloween shindigs under Eric Leonard (seared with quince brunoise & fleur de sel), at Rover's, etc, etc... But, still, never really got it. This was sublime. My husband is a recovering vegetarian, and it was his absolute favorite of the night. The Sauternes just elevated what was already swoon-worthy to heavenly.

Extra Course

Sous Vide Pork Shoulder, Asparagus, Olives, Watercress, Celery Foam and Charred Scallion Oil

What a nice counterpoint to the rich and sweet Foie Gras course before it. Chef William sent us this experimental dish with his complements and it added a distinctly savory note in the progression of our night's menu. The briney olives, charred scallions, bitter watercress, earthy asparagus and meaty pork gave me visions of a spring forager's meal.

Fourth Course

Oregon Lamb on Fingerling Puree, Red Wine Gastrique, Zaatar, Baby Carrots and

Truffled Salt

Chateauneuf du Pape

My favorite dish of the night -- if only because of the addictive fingerling potato puree comprised of 50% Plugra butter! No, really, the lamb, the gastrique, the zaatar, all combined with that decadent puree just hit all the right buttons for me. I really wanted to gnaw every bit of lamb off it's perfectly frenched rib at the end! (And god help me...I'm already re-reading Henry's Food Blog to figure out how to make that Plugra, um I mean potato, puree!)

Cheese Course

Spanish Goat?, 4-yr Aged Gouda, Goat (Pavé de Jadis??), Double Cream Cow, Persille de Beaujolais (blue), Asian Pears, Candied Nuts, Walnut Bread

Getting late...all the food and the wine and the bottle of Veuve Clicquot we started the night with before arriving....I'm forgetting the names of everything (or they're just too quick for me). I know I got the blue cheese right. I hope I got the goat...those two were my favorites! I just love a good cheese course -- so civilized and YUMMY!

First Dessert

Mango & Passion Fruit Sorbets on Tapioca/Coconut bed with Saffron Sauce

Wow...clean fresh fruit flavors. The saffron sauce added a nice tart note to balance the sweet mango.

Extra Dessert

Tuscan Golden Melon & Honeydew Sorbets

Another complementary treat from the kitchen. Like biting straight into the fruit -- only better!!

Main Dessert

Warm Chocolate Cake with Mint Chocolate Ganache Center, Vanilla Ice Cream, Fig & red fruit??, Raspberry-Strawberry Sauce

Mmmmm...I'm not sure what the red fruit slices were with the fig on top, but they didn't last long, just like this dessert!!

20-yr old Tawny Port

Petit Fours

Basque Cakes filled with Pastry Cream

At this point we had the distinct pleasure of meeting Henry and Ling who'd just flown back to Seattle from LA and stopped in to see the Mistral crew. What a nice surprise to finally meet some eGulleteers...especially after I've read and appreciated their writing in the past!! I inadvertently let it slip that we'd come to Mistral for my birthday (not that I was hiding it exactly...but next year I get to start counting backwards!! )

So one more course was generously sent out to us...

Birthday Treat

Chocolate Ice Cream in Tea Syrup

+++++++++

All in all, my husband and I couldn't help making comparisons to some of the best meals we've ever had in the past. We both agreed that this one topped them all -- even our cherished memory of eating at Virazon when we were experimenting with the wine list and chef Rueda shared with us his homemade lemon brandy, and the highs (food) and lows (service) eating at Arpege in Paris.

The food was outstanding. The space was simple and comfortable with a sense of being in a cozy oasis...magnified by the rosy sunset filtering thru the verdant trees in front and decorating the walls. The service was exemplary...such an experience of being taken care of without pretension and with competence and "personal" care.

Both my husband and I agree that we plan to return.

[hhlodesign]

^ I'm glad to have been a part of your birthday celebration. I can't stress enough how much I love Mistral and so thoroughly enjoy it when others can see what I see in the place. It was a pleasure meeting you and your husband. Next time come back into the kitchen and say hi.

From Ling: I'm glad you enjoyed your meal and rediscovered foie gras!