All About Cheese in Montreal & Quebec

[KMPickard]

I have to say that we've never had a more civilized cheese shopping experience than we had this weekend at Frommagerie Chaput on Bernard O. in Montreal.

For those of you who haven't had the opportunity to try the store it's more like shopping for fine jewellry than cheese. The story is comtemporary in design - blond wood etc. The cheese are kept in temperature controlled glass fronted cabinets that are anything but industrial in appearance.

On arrival you are seated at a counter and recieve what amounts to a cheese consultation. They carry raw milk French (and Quebec?)cheeses only.Enquiries were made as to our preferences - to which we added the limitations placed upon us by travel. After sampling several cheeses we arrived at four that we both enjoyed and would endure the trip home.

All I can say is that if I lived in Montreal it would be an all too regular stop.

K.

PS: Next door is a charming tea shop called "un Amour des Thes" from which one will be able to order fine teas over the internet in a couple of weeks.

[Chazzy]

Pierre-Yves Chaput actually makes his own raw milk and goat cheeses and also ages raw milk cheeses from France, both of which he sells at his store. Chaput's very well known here and across Canada and I've even been served one of his cheeses at Gramercy Tavern.

[Lesley C]

That cheese shop is next door to my grocery store and I get there at least once a week. I like the service style and the prices are fair. My only problem is that they only carry their cheeses and a few imports. It's just too limited for the curious cheese lover.

[KMPickard]

I suspect that Chaput's " limited" selection and service style is what made the experience such a good one for us, Lesley. We weren't overwhelmed by choice ,as we were at Hamel, and the staff were prepared and happy to educate us cheese-deprived anglos.

I don't know how many cheeses they had in stock that day, but even if it was only twenty then that's twenty more finely-aged raw milk cheeses than we have available to us in rural Southern Ontario at any time.

Lucky you, to have such scope for exploration.

K.

[Lesley C]

There were twenty cheeses there! I've often been there when the choice was limited to about 7 or 10. I'll have to go back soon.

[KitKat]

Newbie here. Will be in Montreal this weekend. Is Chaput open on Sundays or Mondays? Much appreciated!

[syzygy8]

So, I'm off to Montreal for a few days this coming weekend. It used to be I'd load up on cases of beer when I drove back to the states. Then it was Havanas. But now I fly to Canada (don't live in NY anymore) and the contraband of the hour is raw milk cheese.

I'm looking for advice on exactly where to go buy cheeses unavailable in the US. Having never been to France, I particularly want to try some real French brie or camembert. So here's some questions:

What's your favorite market with the best selection and happiest sales folks to steer me right (my French is not too good)?

If you could only come back with three or four cheeses, what would they be? What kind of cheese do you recommend I buy to bring back with me?

Has anyone ever heard of anyone stopped for bringing in cheese from out of the country? It's not a "meat product" so I don't think the USDA folks with Customs would be too upset if they found it, right?

Thoughts and advice are appreciated!

Paul

[Lesley C]

I'm going to get Fat Guy to comment on this. He's an expert on the subject of cheese smuggling.

In Montreal, try Fromagerie Hamel and Le Fromagerie du Marche Atwater. Where are you going to be in the city? If you're close to Outrement, you might want to try the cheese shop I think is now called Yannick, which used to be the Chaput shop on Bernard St. All these stores offer samples.

Whatever you do, make sure you sample some Quebec cheese, especially the Mi-Careme, Laracam, Riopelle, Kénogami, Chevre Noir, Victor et Bertholde, Le Migneron de Charlevoix, Pied-de-Vent and if ever you can find it, Lechevallier Mailloux, Sarah Brizou, or the Ange Cornu.

[carswell]

If I were you, I'd make a beeline for Les Fromages Pierre-Yves Chaput (the store has changed hands and names, but it'll always be LFPYC to me; 1218 Bernard West in Outremont, 514 279-9376). Although the selection at any given time is small, the cheeses are exquisite: mostly French farmhouse or artisanal with a few made-to-spec Quebec goat's and cow's milk cheeses thrown in for good measure (in season the Quebec Vacherin is a treat). They are good about letting you taste before you buy and, provided they're not too pressed for time, are generous with the explanations and advice. They also often have a number of cheeses a few days from maturity, which can be a good thing when you're travelling (underripe cheese smells less and transports better and you can finish ripening it at home, thereby prolonging the pleasure). I always deal with them in French but visitors from the States have gone there and come back raving, so I guess they don't have a problem with English; if in doubt, why not give them a call?

Also worth checking out are Fromagerie Hamel on the north side of the Jean-Talon Market and the stores in the Atwater Market. Hamel has a huge selection; my favourite is probably the Maroilles à la Maudite, a Port Salut-like raw milk cheese that they import young and ripen in their cellars, washing the rind every few days with Maudite, a locally brewed Belgian-style brown ale. Laurier Gourmand on Laurier St. a couple of blocks west of Park Ave. has a small but worthwhile selection featuring some of the better Quebec raw milk cheeses.

For Italian cheeses, I usually go to La Baia des Fromages (1715 Jean-Talon East, a few doors west of the Fabre metro station, 514 727-8850).

I've never had problems with cheese at the border. (Don't advertise the fact that it is made from raw milk, however.) For the official pronouncement, you could call U.S. Customs at Dorval, er, Pierre E. Trudeau International weekdays during business hours and ask (514 636-3875, although they may tell you to call the Homeland Security Agriculture outpost at 514 631-7083).

Edited September 16, 2003 by carswell (log)

[Fat Guy]

I'd just like to make clear that I am absolutely opposed to any unlawful importation of cheese, and indeed I discourage any unlawful conduct of any kind. Specifically, I must insist that you NOT:

- Wrap the cheese well in at least two layers of Zip-Loc bags

- Pack the cheese in your checked luggage

- Remove any labels that might indicate the cheese is aged less than 60 days

- Plead total ignorance of any of these issues if you're caught

Thank you for your cooperation and understanding.

[Lesley C]

Carswell, the selection isn't as small as it used to be. You can now buy all kinds of Quebec cheeses there, not just Chaput's. I have a feeling, though, that they are a bit pricier than at Hamel

[badthings]

Steingarten says he always declares everything. According to customs, cheese is usually ok, so just follow the suggestions above, and make sure to claim it.

[carswell]

Cautionary tale

[Lesley C]

If you really want to play it safe, the Migneron is not raw milk. And really, how could they ever tell the difference between a Migneron and Mi-Careme or Victor et Bertholde.

[Lesley C]

Oh, wait a minute...if it's Quebec cheese you're after, you might also want to check out Les Saveurs du Marche du Quebec at the Jean-Talon market.

Also I just remembered that it's tough to find any English-speakers at Hamel. Hmm...it might be a problem at a few of these stores.

[docsconz]

Not speaking too much french, I haven't had a problem at either Chaput or Hamel. Both are great cheese shops and I always go for native Quebec cheeses since I figure they are hard to come by in the US and they are so good. I generally try a number of different ones at Chaput (I was there Saturday and spoke with the same counterman I spoke with last spring and I must admit that I didn't notice any changes in the shop) and buy the several I like best, Their 10yo cheddar from Ontario is the best I've ever had. In addition we bought a delicious (now finished) triple cream (camembert like), and two chevres. I was disappointed that they currently do not have any Quebec bleus. Chaput or whatever it is called has by far the best atmosphere of them all. It is also not too far from St. Viateur bagels - the best in the city.

I absolutely recommend both Atwater and Jean Talon Markets. Atwater I think is somewhat better with meats and chocolates, but Jean Talon is better with produce and cheese ( I like Hamel better than the Fromagerie of Atwater).

[syzygy8]

Thank you all for your friendly advice. I'm ready to start tasting now. To answer a question, I'm staying near the Guy-Concordia metro station. I am now also anxious to try some of the Quebec cheeses. I will also NOT decide if I should bring gallon-size ziploc storage bags, or the thicker freezer bags. Again, I appreciate the help.

Cheers!

Paul

[identifiler]

Then Atwater market is the closest shopping point. When I was in Italy, most dried meats, cheeses and others were personnaly vacuum packed for travel. Maybe Atwater can do this for you, still bring some ziplock because handling cheese will leave some traces on the plastic seal. If you are flying towards Reagan National Washington, prepare for a total disclosure (they will search every single inch of yourslef and your luggage in a separate room anyways). This is only for flights going to Wash.

[syzygy8]

When I was in Italy, most dried meats, cheeses and others were personnaly vacuum packed for travel. Maybe Atwater can do this for you, still bring some ziplock because handling cheese will leave some traces on the plastic seal.

Interesting. Does the vacuum packing do anything to disturb the cheese in any way? I'd think not. Which makes me wonder why I had never thought of something like this before. I'll buy a Food Saver in Canada and bring it back duty free!

[identifiler]

It shouldn't, however, I caution you to vacuum seal a very soft triple cream cheese... Food saver... I love that thing, gets me organic raspberry shakes every morning of winter !

[carswell]

Interesting.  Does the vacuum packing do anything to disturb the cheese in any way?  I'd think not.  Which makes me wonder why I had never thought of something like this before.  I'll buy a Food Saver in Canada and bring it back duty free!

Based purely on personal experience, I often find vacuum-packing detrimental to raw milk cheeses. It's fine for short-term storage but after a couple of days, the cheese can take on a stale or musty flavour. My theory — and I stress that it's only that — is that raw milk cheeses are living, breathing things and that oxygen deprivation adversely affects (kills?) the microbes on which their flavour depends.

Edited September 17, 2003 by carswell (log)

[feedthegut]

Whenever my parents go to Spain, they come back with a loaf of Manchego cheese, which we cut into reasonable size portions and vacuum pack. Those babies taste pretty damn good every time I crack one open, but then again, I'm a real sucker for the stuff.

[carswell]

Whenever my parents go to Spain, they come back with a loaf of Manchego cheese, which we cut into reasonable size portions and vacuum pack. Those babies taste pretty damn good every time I crack one open, but then again, I'm a real sucker for the stuff.

Funny but the first time I encountered the phenomenon was just after my butcher got a vacuum-packer and received a shipment of raw milk Manchego (one of my favourite cheeses, too, and one of the few that goes really well with red wine). The first chunk was incredible. The second chunk, which had been vacuum-packed for a few days, was less resplendent. The third chunk, vacuum-packed for a week and a half or two weeks, tasted like cardboard. But, hey, it's just a personal data point. Might be interesting to post a query on the Cooking or General Food Topics board and see what the consensus is.

[identifiler]

Carswell, you make a very good point. As a microbiologist, it makes a lot of sense to me. I have used it for very hard cheeses such as regiano. When I open a seal, i never re seal it. It's just for transport and short term. Reguardless if sporulating microbes can survive without a lot of oxygen, it really is playing with fire to alter the process of caseine breakdown.

[syzygy8]

Well, considering that I'm bringing this back to share with family and friends, I probably won't use the vacuum sealing. The idea being that I want these folks to share in the proper taste of some cheese that you can't buy here BECAUSE IT'S KILLING PEOPLE RIGHT AND LEFT ELSEWHERE IN THE WORLD!

I think I'll arm myself with my ziplocs and a few cold packs. And I love the suggestions you've all presented. Now I just need to make sure that my plane can take off in tomorrow's hurricane in DC!

Thank you,

Paul