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Kaliya Asaf Jha from "Cooking of the Maharajas—The Royal Recipes of India" By Shivaji Rao and Shalini Devi Holkar


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First, My Commentary

 

  • Shivaji Rao Holkar is the short form name of Maharajkumar Shrimant Shivaji Rao Holkar of Indore (aka Prince Richard Holkar). Shalini Devi Holkar (Princess Sally Holkar) is the Indian name via marriage of Ms. Sally Budd of Dallas, Texas. They met while being students at Stanford University in Palo Alto, California. Married in 1967. This book was published in 1975.
  • Link+ is amazingly awesome! I didn't know that my local library was affiliated or have membership access free to the public with library card. In addition to my own collection of books, I have been requesting (within reason) books from all over California's public libraries!
  • I have not cooked this recipe...yet! I thought it would be great to share that royal recipes are "relatively easy" and "immensely friendly to the Western kitchens."
  • Filmed at Prince Richard Holkar's residence called Ahilya Fort in Maheshwar in Madhya Pradesh. You can see an excerpt of Prince Richard Holkar talking about his book from a recent video on the YouTube food channel called "Khaane Mein Kya Hai" (What is There to Eat?). Talk starts at around 9:59.

 

Serves: 6

 

Founder’s Feast

 

The founder of the dynasty, the first of the seven Nizams to rule Hyderabad, was Asaf Jha, for whom this dish is named. A famous general before he became a ruler, Asaf Jha used to say to his men that to hold a fort there must be only a head, two arms, and two legs. By that, he meant a commander, reinforcement from two quarters (the arms), and food and water in the fort (the legs). Food in the fort may have meant rice and lentils for the regiments; but for Asaf Jha himself, there were always elaborate dishes. This kaliya, or saucy meat, was one of his favourites. Rich with saffron, almonds, and raisins, it is the epitome of refined Muslim cuisine.

 

Ingredients

 

3 cups unflavoured yogurt, beaten smooth with a fork
2 Tbs. minced garlic
¼ cup scraped and minced ginger root
½ cup clarified butter
4 tsp. salt
2 lbs. lean, boneless lamb (preferably shoulder or leg), cut into 2-inch cubes
¼ cup clarified butter or vegetable oil
2 Tbs. seedless raisins
½ cup slivered blanched, unsalted almonds
1 cup coarsely chopped onion
1-2 Tbs. ground hot red pepper
2 tsp. sugar
2-4 fresh, green chili peppers, seeded and minced (optional)
½ tsp. saffron threads
¼ cup minced fresh coriander leaf (cilantro) (optional)

 

Method

 

  • Three hours before cooking, pour the yogurt into a strainer lined with a double thickness of dampened cheese-cloth and set over a bowl to drip. (One cup of waterless yogurt will be required.)
  • Purée the garlic, ginger, and salt with ¼ cup water in the blender. Rub this purée into the meat. In a heavy, medium-sized saucepan, heat the butter and fry the meat until it is golden and the natural water evaporated. Add 2 cups water and cook uncovered over medium-high heat until tender. (Add up to 1 cup more water as necessary to tenderize.) All the water should boil off before beginning the next step. Set aside off heat when ready.
  • Fifteen minutes before serving, in a very small skillet or saucepan, heat the butter and fry the raisins until they puff. Remove to the meat pot. In the remaining oil, fry almonds until golden. Remove to meat pot. Add enough fresh oil to the skillet to cover the onions and fry them until they are golden and crisp. Drain and add into the meat with all remaining ingredients in this section.
  • At this point, the meat can be held for several hours. Twenty minutes before serving, reheat it gently and complete preparation.
  • Powder the saffron and put to soak in a cup with 2 tsp. hot water. Just before serving, beat this saffron water into the 1 cup reserved waterless yogurt. Stir into the meat with the coriander leaf. Beat through and serve immediately over plain, white rice.

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Ronald N. Tan

Personal Chef at Tan Can Cook

Northern California (USA)

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