Long day travelling. A flight to La Paz (in Baja California Sur), then 3 hours by bus and another hour in the taxi to reach the whale watching location. Baja Sur is usually warm already in February but this year it's so cold and the hotels don't have heating (ceiling fans are useless now).
Just missed the bus and had some time to kill until the next departure. The only meal today:
We experienced moderate turbulence during much of the flight but it got bad just before we started to descend. Bouncing up and down in our seats, whole plane was shaking like in an earthquake. Felt like we were losing altitude uncontrollably as we dropped so fast. On top of this the plane dipped sharply a couple of times in the middle of the fast descend and turbulence. All the passengers were still (and probably gripping the armrests hard) during this, some women in the rows in front of us shrieked each time the plane dipped. This was not a normal approach, let's hope the landing gear wouldn't break upon landing! Touchdown was very hard but thankfully nothing unfortunate happened. During this harrowing turbulence there was not one word from the flight deck! Turns out "that's Volaris for you", I was told.
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Next day.
This time we could stay no longer than a couple of days to see whales at Bahia Magdalena. Got up early and got back from whale watching early in the afternoon. Rested, and then ate something and the day was over. It's like this every day when you are here solely for the whale watching.
There are several types of hot sauces but this was the "hottest" for me.
I always order a ceviche of almejas chocolatas, so here it is again. It used to have avocado slices on top and the portion was bigger.
The guacamole had no onion by request. There's more than enough onion in my ceviche.
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The only thing that had fruits and yoghurt. The yoghurt is usually sweetened so I can't eat it. There's only 2 tea spoons worth of it. The partner ate the yoghurt and teeth busting crunchy granola for me.
Papas con chorizo (potatoes with Mexican "chorizo", a type of minced meat/sausage).
After an hour in the taxi and 3 nauseating hours in the bus going round and round, up and down the mountains we arrived at Loreto. Cold and windy, unlike previous times.
Immediately hit the supermarket. Price of avocado is not bad, actually. I have seen over 70 pesos before. But then it's no avocado paradise Michoacan so be glad that the avocados here are still the high quality stuff (buttery, flavourful, and Mexican grown).
Every day in Loreto we like to eat a big cup of soursop ice cream from a shop across the street.
First meal in Loreto is always at this restaurant. The 3 chickens are still around.
Salsa looks the same, but not the taste.
Scallop aguachile
A piping hot and heavy molcajete
"Surf and turf" with cactus and peppers.
Unfortunately, we don't want to return after this. So much has changed. The menu, the prices, employees, the experience, the food, the restaurant. Also, many gringos have found out.
We enjoyed these tamales more. From a street vendor next to a supermarket. She got the sign translated, I see. Got 1 of each, asked about chocolate sauced chicken and she said yes she had it. We got it, too.
Beer alongside. February is probably mango season. Every time we are here the (super)markets are full of ripe mangoes, many crates of them to choose from. We ate 4 mangoes over the kitchen sink every day.
How to know you are a Baja Sur repeat visitor? Employees at hotels, restaurants, pubs remember you. And the wifi connects automatically. An employee at this craft beer bar recognised me at once. Good to see him, too. The only craft beer bar in town. Head brewer is an Irish expat.
