My Personal Canelé Rabbit Hole

[ElsieD]

8 hours ago, JeffGC said:

ElsieD-What you are doing is great but it might provide some misleading info. Some websites mention the drastic drop in oven temperature when the canelés are placed inside. Baking one at a time would doubtfully have any effect on the temperature. Placing 12 might.

 

I agree with that but given the vast differences in temperatures I'm simply trying to devise a baking starting point.  I have tried 5 recommended settings so far, ranging from starting temperatures of 450F to 375F and continuing the bake with temperatures ranging from 325F to 375F.  The best one so far has me pre-heating the oven to 400F and when they (in my case it) goes in to bake, reducing the heat to 325F and baked for 90 minutes, using a preheated mold.  Can anyone tell me why some recipes say to pre-heat the molds and others say to freeze them?

Thank you for those links.  I'll check them out tomorrow.

[JeffGC]

We will figure this out together!

[ElsieD]

Today I decided to use the last of the mix and make two canelés.  I poured this batter into two molds;  the amount of batter I had was a bit shy of the amount that would usually go into them.  I decided to use room temperature molds as I am curious as to what happens when you neither pre-heat the molds nor freeze them.  The oven was preheated to 400F.  When they went in, I baked them for 5 minutes and then turned the heat down to 325F and baked them for 60 minutes.  For me, they were perfect.  Nice crunch on the outside, no "white ass" the inside sort of a cakey custardy texture if that makes any sense.  I an going to make up another batch of batter today and test the baking times on a batch of 6.  I expect I'll need to adjust the time a bit for the larger batch.  I did test them for color as I went along by quickly upending them to see what their bottoms looked like and with this little bake, added time in 10 minute increments to check on them.  That is how I arrived at a local bake time of 65 minutes.  Edited to add:  these were baked on the convection setting of my oven.

Edited September 13, 2023 by ElsieD (log)

[JeffGC]

Those look perfect. 

[ElsieD]

14 minutes ago, JeffGC said:

Those look perfect. 

 

Thanks.  Just finished writing a comparison of the different recipes from the links you posted.  I haven't really looked at them, but the recipes, at first blush do not seem to differ all that much.  

[ElsieD]

If anyone has the book Chez Jacques by Jacques Pepin, I wonder if they could check a couple of things for me.  Does he pre-heat or pre-freeze his molds and secondly, does he initially bake them at 300F and after 30 minutes, crank the heat up to 400F for a further 40 minutes?  I ask because a came across a recipe on the internet that purports to be from his book and the baking temperatures are reversed from any other recipes I've seen.  The recipe linked to below does not discuss the mold freeze/heat I guess because she is using silicone molds.

 

https://apoundofyeast.blogspot.com/search?q=Canelés

 

 

[JeffGC]

Was away for a bit (Paris!) but now back at it.

 

Melting 50/50 at setting 3. Probed and it was 244F, which I think is a bit warm. Next time will reduce to setting 2. Excellent release after baking.

 

Jason Yeh/Can You Canelé

https://jasonyehmd.wordpress.com/

 

First bake was eight and second was five. 45 minutes and 40 minutes, respectively. 

 

Although both batches were incinerated and were like lumps of coal, I was rather encouraged. I had virtually no cul blanc. Tempted to just work on this recipe, but will move on.

Edited October 7, 2023 by JeffGC
Attach images (log)

[JeffGC]

Tested oven at 500°. Average is about 475° +/- 25°. I’ll do further testing.

 

I am focused on the Jason Yeh/Can You Canelé recipe for a number of reasons. 1) It only uses egg yolks which should reduce soufléeing. 2) It uses granulated sugar and corn starch, instead of relying on an unknown quantity of cornstarch in confectioner’s sugar. Lastly everything it to weight, in grams.

 

Today was the second bake of the remainder of that used yesterday. Today, 10 minutes at 500° and 35 minutes at 350°.  Started checking at 25 minutes.

 

 

 

 

Nothing was incinerated and I’m going to work with the recipe a bit more.

Edited October 14, 2023 by JeffGC (log)

[JeffGC]

Continue working with the same recipe. Plan was to go 10 min/550° and the 20min/350°. On the first batch, I forgot to reduce the heat! This did not go well. Second batch followed the plan.I was pleased and the interiors were excellent. Next test will be 11 min and 12 min at 550° then dropping to 350° for 20. I feel I am making progress.

[ElsieD]

@JeffGC. Those are beauties!  Did you use the Jason Yeh recipe?

[ElsieD]

On 10/20/2023 at 4:57 PM, ElsieD said:

@JeffGC. Those are beauties!  Did you use the Jason Yeh recipe?

@JeffGC. Have you perfected the recipe?  

[JeffGC]

25 October

First group 11min 550°. Then 350°. Top right at 20 minutes and the others at 25 minutes.

 

Second group at 12 min 550° and 20 minutes 350°

 

 

Clearly, 12 minutes too much. Will work with 11 minutes and test further.

 

11 January 2024

Melted 80g (40+40) and coated 13 molds. At the last one, I had to rotate slightly. Based on 269g empty, it seems as if it consumed 23g for coating all. Will save the excess in the fridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12 January 2024

I was hesitant to go with an initial 11 minutes and used 10 at 550°. The two back rows, less the one in the lower right, were 10 @ 550° and 20 @ 350°. No CB but a bit darker than desired. The front row was on the same day. All in this row were in the newer molds (!!!). The rightmost, in the middle row, was in the older molds. The latter was done at about 15 minutes and the others were close to 25. There seems to be quite a difference between the molds. The older molds have a flat dimple and the newer ones are more rounded.

 

 

My plan is to stay with 10 minutes at 550° followed by 350°. I’ll start checking at 15 minutes. I will also experiment with removing excess wax around the mouth of the mold.

 

16 January 2024

 

This was a total cauchemar. The first batch I wasn’t thinking and baked 15 min @ 550°. The second batch, I forgot to reduce to 350°. One interesting finding, though. The original molds had only one of eight with cul blanc. The News ones all had cul blanc. The molds cannot be mixed. Also, in addition to removing the wax dimple, I scraped the mouths with a chopstick. Very little 50/50 left in the molds. All was not lost today. 

 

[JeffGC]

Here are the referenced images.

[JeffGC]

The previous two posts were from my Canelé diary and I didn't answer your question!. Yes, I am convinced the Jason Yeh recipe is the way to go. When I decided to purchase 5cm molds, I ordered eight from Meilleur du Chef, in Bassussarry, France. I needed five more molds and purchased them on eBay; i.e., not the same molds. The original eight molds have a flat center and the newer five molds have a convex (viewed from the inside) center. The difference in the resulting Canelé is remarkable. Flat have almost zero cul blanc. Convex have 100% cul blanc and the bake time is much longer.

[JeffGC]

I am very careful to update my recipe with my findings. As of today:

 

Canelé (Jason Yeh)

★★★★★

Baked Goods/Canelé

Servings: About 12 cannele for 2″ copper molds Source: jasonyehmd.wordpress.com

 

INGREDIENTS

500g whole milk

50g unsalted butter

1 vanilla bean

40g dark rum

4 egg yolks-80g

120g all purpose flour

205g granulated white sugar

7g corn starch

1g kosher salt

 

DIRECTIONS

Prep (48 hours):
Heat milk and butter in a saucepan to 185°F. Add vanilla bean. Whisk gently to combine and turn off heat. Cool for 15 minutes.

In mid-size SS bowl, combine flour, sugar, corn starch and salt. Whisk well.

Place 4 egg yolks into a large glass mixing bowl and whisk to combine well.

Temper with 10% of warmed liquid mixture . Continue whisking while adding the rest of the hot liquid mixture.

Add rum.

Add the dry mixed ingredients and gently whisk together.

Strain into plastic container.

Mold Prep:
Warm molds at 170° on 1/8 sheet pans. Max of 4 or 5 per pan. Remove as needed.

Melt 50/50 mixture at setting #2 (160°) Butter must be clarified. 80g total needed to coat 13 molds.

Coat molds.

Remove dimples and excess with bamboo chopstick.

Freeze

 

Bake:

Preheat oven to 550° (not convection) with steel on center rack. Heat for one hour after temperature reached.

Mix well with spoon or spatula and strain into large measuring cup.

Gently stir the canelé batter so the density seems uniform throughout. There is usually a thick goopy layer resting on top that will “melt away” if you stir enough. Try not to incorporate any air into the batter.

Strain the batter through a fine mesh strainer into a clean container.

Per 12 January 2024

10 minutes at 550°
Rotate 180°
15 minutes at 350° - Check and continue as needed.

 

[ElsieD]

Hi, @JeffGC, I'm glad you posted again

 

Am I reading this right, bake 10 minutes at 550 then only 15 minutes at 350?  So 25 minutes in total?  Also, why does the butter need to be clarified?  I'm itching to make these again, but won't have time until next week.  I do have fresh food grade beeswax.  I'm going to follow your recipe and instructions.  Not sure if I have the flatter molds or the ones that have a deeper dimple.

[JeffGC]

Correct…25 minutes total. This is what seems to work with the flat dimple molds. The rounded dimple molds, for some reason, take more time. At the 15 minute mark, I pull from the oven and inspect. My goal is a medium to dark mahogany. If still light, such as with the rounded dimple molds, I bake for an additional 5 minutes and inspect again. I continue as necessary. I’m using a Wolf dual fuel stove and my oven temp is calibrated. 
 

In Yeh’s original recipe, he suggested clarified butter for the 50/50 mix. This eliminates the milk solids that burn. He actually recommends ghee, for ease of use. I always have clarified butter in the fridge so I use that. Regular butter for the batter, though. 
 

There is so much about Yeh’s recipe that I like. I’m guessing he is an MD so his efforts are through the eyes of a scientist. All of his quantities are metric and to weight, including liquids. The separate corn starch makes sense. The only issue I had was with his times. In my oven, they were drastically over baked. It’s worth the time to reread his info. https://jasonyehmd.wordpress.com

[ElsieD]

10 hours ago, JeffGC said:

Correct…25 minutes total. This is what seems to work with the flat dimple molds. The rounded dimple molds, for some reason, take more time. At the 15 minute mark, I pull from the oven and inspect. My goal is a medium to dark mahogany. If still light, such as with the rounded dimple molds, I bake for an additional 5 minutes and inspect again. I continue as necessary. I’m using a Wolf dual fuel stove and my oven temp is calibrated. 
 

In Yeh’s original recipe, he suggested clarified butter for the 50/50 mix. This eliminates the milk solids that burn. He actually recommends ghee, for ease of use. I always have clarified butter in the fridge so I use that. Regular butter for the batter, though. 
 

There is so much about Yeh’s recipe that I like. I’m guessing he is an MD so his efforts are through the eyes of a scientist. All of his quantities are metric and to weight, including liquids. The separate corn starch makes sense. The only issue I had was with his times. In my oven, they were drastically over baked. It’s worth the time to reread his info. https://jasonyehmd.wordpress.com

 

Thank you.  I will re-read it.  I hope to give these a go soon.

[ElsieD]

On 1/17/2024 at 5:48 PM, JeffGC said:

The original eight molds have a flat center and the newer five molds have a convex (viewed from the inside) center. The difference in the resulting Canelé is remarkable. Flat have almost zero cul blanc. Convex have 100% cul blanc and the bake time is much longer.

 

I believe my molds are convex.  Does that mean I should bake them longer than the times given in your latest recipe?  I realize I can check them but I thought I'd ask.

 

Also, are in individual molds put directly on the baking steel or are they baked on a tray on the steel?  I'm thinking that if baked directly on the steel the oven would lose a lot of heat when you rotate them.

 

Again, thank you for answering my questions.

[JeffGC]

I use 1/4 sheet pans, covered with heavy duty aluminum foil. The pan, with molds, is placed on the steel. Open the door, quick 180° and remember to turn temp down. At 15 minutes, pull and knock out a few. If too light, return to oven for a few minutes and inspect again. 

[ElsieD]

17 minutes ago, JeffGC said:

I use 1/4 sheet pans, covered with heavy duty aluminum foil. The pan, with molds, is placed on the steel. Open the door, quick 180° and remember to turn temp down. At 15 minutes, pull and knock out a few. If too light, return to oven for a few minutes and inspect again. 

 

Excellent, thank you!  I shall post my results.

[ElsieD]

I baked two yesterday, using @JeffGC's instructions.  The only change I made was refrigerating the batter overnight and since they weren't quite done  they got an extra 2 minutes @ 350.  Edited to add:  the tops weren't as dark as the rest of the canalés, and the interior of the canalés right underneath the top looks underbaked.

 

Edited January 27 by ElsieD (log)

[ElsieD]

On 12/9/2022 at 4:01 PM, Pete Fred said:

I line the moulds with just a very thin coating of beeswax (no butter)

How do you do this?  With a pastry brush?  Are the molds at room temperature?

[Pete Fred]

49 minutes ago, ElsieD said:

How do you do this?  With a pastry brush?  Are the molds at room temperature?

 

I used to: Heat the moulds in the oven so they're fairly hot. Microwave the beeswax in a jug until fluid and hot. Fill a mould with wax. Then, using an oven glove, pick up the mould and pour the wax into an empty mould, twisting to ensure the mould you're holding is fully coated. Repeat.

 

If you go back through Kriss Harvey's timeline on Instagram there are several cannele videos, and you can see a couple of methods he uses. Like this...

 

 

I think this is and a blowtorch is a neat way to do it. Beeswax is an absolute bugger to clean up; doing this over baking paper you can just scrunch it up and get on with your life.

[ElsieD]

I came across a recipe from Jacques Pepin which, as far as baking them goes, completely reversed the oven temperature.  So I tried it today, 30 minutes @ 300F, then 30 minutes @400F.  The recipe called for 40 minutes @400, but when I checked after 30, they were done, probably because I was using a convection oven.  Also, I used a baker's cooking spray in the molds (contains silicone dioxide to prevent sticking) and they released easily.  We were very, very pleased with these.  I still have batter left so next time I'll do the same thing except bake then using the regular bake setting rather than convection and see what happens.