Restaurant Uberfahrt 3* - Rottach-Egern / Germany

Bu Pun Su · April 21, 2019

Restaurant Uberfahrt is one of German’s 3-star restaurants. Given its stature, it’s relatively “quiet” – generally not on the people’s top recommendation lists when asked about the country’s ‘must go places to eat’. Similar to another Bavarian’s 3-star restaurant, Uberfahrt is also located inside the luxurious hotel – Althoff seehotel. However, it was not in major city … instead, it was hidden near lake Tegernsee (about 1 hour from Munich by Bob train). I went there alone this January during a cold day with rather heavy snow. It was a slow lunch; only 4 people eating there including 2 persons dining solo. The dining room was relatively small and not that spacious, far from the opulent ambiance that we usually encounter among Michelin multi-star institutions.

There were 2 degustation menu and I picked the longer one. Guests could order any dishes as a la carte as well. Except the cheese and dessert courses, the portion of the dishes was kinda small. Some dishes that I liked were,

-“the cube” was one of Christian Jurgens’ specialties. Essentially, it was potato with hidden egg yolk inside that was carefully shaped into a yellow cube. The flavorful potato & yolk was surrounded by sweet, pungent and delicious mousseline infused with black truffle as well as Madeira sauce. I loved this dish - rich and deep in flavor yet not overwhelming, served with the right texture and temperature. It was the best thing I ate during my short trip to Germany this time.

-the meaty back Turbot with edamame and mustard seeds did not disappoint. The white flesh was mild and firm. The roasted onion 'soup' with some greens (such as parsley, chives and greens) gave bolder and deeper overall flavor to the Turbot.

-I also enjoyed the main course of tender and flavorful duck served with some spices and its jus. The main side dish was soft burned cabbage having plain taste, a little smoky and absorbed some of the spice jus flavor. A creative approach of Bavarian cooking.

You’re welcome to see the rest of the dishes from the links below

Most of current German elite chefs in their 40’s or so were usually trained by either Heinz Winkler or Harald Wohlfahrt. Christian Jurgens learned from the former. These days, there’s hardly elite German chefs cooking pure classical French cuisine … Chef Jurgens was of no exception. He preferred to create and deliver refined and contemporary French-based haute cuisine with Bavarian characters. He did not want to complicate the dishes, but the flavors remained sublime based on the freshest produce. The quiet publication was probably justified. Although it was my best restaurant in Bavarian region and I slightly liked this more than Atelier, it’s not (yet) at the level of Aqua or Vendome. Uberfahrt was a 2 ½* restaurant in my note.

Meal photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/7124357@N03/albums/72157690798662093

More detailed review: https://zhangyuqisfoodjourneys.blogspot.com/2019/04/restaurant-uberfahrt-christian-jurgens.html