13 hours ago, SLB said:boilsover, I just want to double check that the splayed sauté pan is the same as the sauteuse évasée?
In other words, this pan here is actually a traditional Windsor: http://www.abt.com/product/115701/Mauviel-M250c-3.7-Qt.-Copper-And-Stainless-Steel-Splayed-Saute-Pan-654324.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=sc&utm_campaign=654324&camptype=cpcUSGooglePLA&pt_source=google&pt_medium=sc&pt_campaign=[PLA] [US] Manufacturer&pt_adgroup=[PMX] [PLA] [US] Manufacturer&pt_keyword=
I'm asking because per the slkinsey article from wayback, they are different pans with different traditional functions. Specifically, the splayed sauté pan would have higher sides than the sauteuse.
I'm not trying to be challenging, I'm just trying to clarify my understanding.
Hi, SLB:
No offense taken. I'm having issues finding the distinction you mention in Sam's article. Sam writes:
" Sauteuse Evasée (Slant-Sided Saucepan, Windsor Saucepan, Sauteuse Conique, Conical Sauteuse, Fait Tout, Chef’s Pan, Reduction Pan): This is a saucepan that has been optimized for reductions. The sides are angled out from the base to provide 25% more surface area for evaporation. In addition, the sides are even lower than those on a Low Saucepan -- usually one-third as tall as the diameter of the pan. Due to its geometry, which is neither particularly high nor particularly low, the Sauteuse Evasée may be used for sautéing in the larger sizes, and the smaller sizes can be very useful in place of a Low Saucepan. Such versatility has conferred upon this pan the name “Fait Tout,” which means “does everything.” (Note: Le Creuset makes a non-traditional “Windsor” that has slanted sides, but is relatively tall and narrow. This pan does not have the same performance characteristics as the traditional designs.)" and
"Curved Sauteuse Evasée (Curved Sauteuse, Saucière, Sauteuse Bombée, Saucier, Chef’s Pan): As the name suggests, this pan is otherwise similar to the Sauteuse Evasée, only with curved rather than straight sides. In smaller sizes, the curved sides provide easy access to every corner of the pan with a whisk or spoon for sauce making. In larger sizes, the curved sides facilitate one-handed tossing of the food when sautéing." (emphasis mine)
I see no contradiction or distinction in what Sam wrote. He clearly equates 'sauteuse evassee' with 'Windsor', etc. Were I Sam's editor, I would have moved the bold sentence quoted to the end of the first paragraph, because it applies best to all these splayed geometries, not just the curved-wall variants.
I'd also like to offer that any difference is one of degree masquerading as one of kind. Unless we literally are on a desert island, we would want a large floorspace on which to saute. But that expansive floorspace may defeat the purpose of keeping a relatively constant surface:volume ratio for reductions. So we might reasonably agree that a 'sauteuse evassee' is a Windsor with enough floorspace to saute.
These nomenclature issues can sometimes be frustrating (E.g., Try proving what a "Dutch oven" is!). To some French chefs a 'Russe' is just a saucepan; to others, it's a taller specific pan akin to a milk pan.
