One If By Land, Two If By Sea

[Damian]

Hello All,

I stumbled onto this board today.  My wife and I just moved to NYC from D.C. and are excited about experiencing the food scene here.  One of the plusses about a taking a high-powered job here is a little extra disposable income - the big minus is that time to spend it becomes very precious.  This place looks like a great resource for saving time by helping us avoid the places to be avoided.

That said...my wife has made reservations at One If for tonight.  I know the place is the subject of mixed reviews, especially for food, but a good friend of ours went and loved it and she wants to go.  There is no talking her out of it, so my question for this knowledgeable group is:  What should we do/not do, order/not order for a memorable experience there?

[tommy]

good for you.  don't let anyone talk you out of it.  a perfect winter night for a meal there if you ask me, which no one has.  

order that thing, i forget what it's called, the filet with pate surrounded by pastery??!?!?  

and welcome to egullet.  enjoy your stay both here and in NYC...and be sure to share your thoughts on OIBL!!

[yvonne johnson]

Quote: from tommy on 2:53 pm on Dec. 28, 2001

order that thing, i forget what it's called, the filet with pate surrounded by pastery??!?!?  

I've never been here, but, Tommy, are you referring to fillet steak en crout maybe? I like that kind of thing. Periyali does a very good salmon en crout.

[Wilfrid]

In England, the filet coated with pate and baked in pastry would be called Beef Wellington.  

[tommy]

Quote: from Wilfrid on 3:17 pm on Dec. 28, 2001

In England, the filet coated with pate and baked in pastry would be called Beef Wellington.  

that be the one.  many thanks.  brain topped working after lunch at D'Artagnan, which was pretty tasty.

[Damian]

Sounds like Beef Wellington is the word on the street consensus for One If, looks like that is what I'll be having.  My dad made Beef Wellington for Christmas dinner once, the cousins dubbed it "the caterpillar" for the encrusted tenderloin's long and bumpyish resemblance to our our furry little friends.  My memory is that it was wonderful and very well received by all.  Unfortunately, that somewhat rosy-tinted experience is all the comparison I'll have to offer when I report on the version being served at One If.  

[Damian]

Thoroughly enjoyed One If.  

We arrived about 5 minutes after nine for our 9 o'clock reservations and had to wait 15 minutes to be seated, but the wait was pleasant in the cozy bar area with the pianist gently playing holiday tunes.  Extra Dry Grey Goose martini with extra olives - actually came extra dry, and was requisitely chilled.

We were then led to a small table in the side room, this was a little disappointing as the main room seemed like the place to be.  The side room was nicely decorated and not too loud, but did not have an "old townhouse" feel about it.  In fact, the whole restarant seemed to lack this feeling with its modern drywall, etc. I was expecting a more historic vibe.  

We were served an amusee bouche of duck confit and dressing with a single, marinated cranberry.  It was like having a bite size holiday meal, and the taste evoked memories and emotions of Thanksgiving dinners.  Perhaps not overly imaginitive, but it certainly added to the cozy feeling.

I had the Mosaic of Yellowtail and Hamachi Tuna to start. It was served with wasabi creme fraiche over a salad of "microgreens" with radishes and beets.  Not sure what microgreens are, but it seemed like arugula.  They were dressed in a light vinaigrette with a hint of dijon (could have been wasabi).   The sushi was in small cubes which had been assembled into a cake in the center of the salad. The assemblage alternated fish and looked like pink harlequin.  Delicious, the fish was fresh and chilled and the sauce was creamy and did not overpower.  The radishes were crispy and added texture.  My wife had the Potato Gnocchi, it was served in a simple red sauce with parmesan shavings and white truffle oil, and mushrooms.  It was savory and salty and the gnocchi were that perfedct balance between mushy and firm.  They melted in the mouth.    

I ordered a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape, 1999 Vieux Telegraphe - overpriced and overchilled, but lovely once it warmed to a proper temperature.  It was a little light in character to compete with the main course - you guessed it, Beef Wellington.  In retrospect, a sturdier wine would have been better, but my wife was threatening to get duck when I ordered the wine, so I tried to choose a happy medium.

We both had the Beef Wellington, what a decadent dish.  It is served as individual, inch and a half thick filets, with a smear of pate on the top and surrounded by puff pastry.  It was huge.  The filet was cooked perfectly medium rare and the pastry was flaky and crumbled to the fork on the outside while a little gooey where it met the meat.  It was set on a powerful  sauce bordelaise, true to its name it seemed to be a slightly sweetened, sticky reduction of a Bordeaux wine.  (The sauce was what rendered the wine I ordered into a weak sister).  It also came with puffed, roasted potatoes and some haricots verts which were pretty to look at but were clearly an afterthought.  The BW was delicious with the crisp and chewy pastry giving a nice contrast to the tender meat.  The pate imparted some flavor, but left the beef as the star, and this seemed right.    

For dessert, (not an easy task after the monster main course) I cannot remember the name of what I ordered! it was a kind of coconut gelee with a vanilla creme sauce and a small scoop of ginger ice cream.  It was good, but not overly memorable...the coconut was slippery, but rather bland tasting.  My wife had a warm banana-coconut cake with peanut ice cream and passion fruit cream.  That was delicious with the ice cream and cream sauce melting onto the firm cake and creating a lovely moist sponge effect.  

Service was friendly and we never felt rushed or ignored, glasses were always filled in a timely way.  The waiter was happy to discuss the menu and made recommendations (the sushi - good, the dessert - not as good).  The maitre d' was charming and welcoming and helped us bundle up for the cold night like a favorite, smartly-dressed auntie.  

All in all, a very good night out.  The beef wellington was the star of the meal and is a decadent, heavy dish that is perfect for a bitterly cold winter night.  I could almost picture the founding fathers sitting down to this noble, festive dish on a snowy night by the fireplace.  

[Fat Guy]

Thanks for the follow-up. It's great to get such a comprehensive report after an initial inquiry.

I have to say, I'm inclined to agree with Ruth Reichl's sentiment -- expressed several years ago in a review of One If By Land -- that there's no such thing as good beef Wellington. The whole idea doesn't work for me. That being said, I've not visited the restaurant under the current chef.

I'll be interested to hear how you think this meal stacks up against some of your other New York City fine dining experiences. Please keep us updated.

[rich]

Had the tasting menu at One If By Land, TIBS last night (final night Christmas decorations were up - the Epiphany) and it was surprisingly good. At $75 per person it was a bargain. I would classify it very good or an 7.5/8 on a ten-scale.

Edited January 7, 2003 by rich (log)

[Kim WB]

Is Lee Hanson still the chef there? IT's such a pretty place, I have not been there in years. Aaron Burr's residence, if I recall.

[R Washburn]

Aaron Burr's residence, if I recall.

I think it is his former carriage house.

[Matt Seeber]

err..... lee hanson is the chef at balthazer.

edit, co-chef to be more specific

[Wilfrid]

Last time I ate there, several years ago, the food was competently prepared but terribly dull. Roast chicken and mashed potatoes, sort of thing. Would it be possible to sketch what was on the tasting menu?

[SobaAddict70]

The shrimp in a salad with Thai seasonings were rigid and dull. Roasted lobster met a similarly careless fate.

To its credit, One if by Land serves a golden chicken Kiev with truffle butter, and shy of seriously overcooking such a dish, which the kitchen did not, there may not be any way to leech it of a basic, enduring appeal.

One If By Land, Two If By Sea (Frank Bruni)

Related discussion regarding Mr. Bruni's performance as main restaurant critic for The New York Times can be found here.

[James Kessler]

I ate there with my Fiancee on New Year's Eve around 18 months ago. I proposed to her there at the special New Year's Eve celebration dinner. It was somewhat expensive, but I think it was well worth it. I do have the menu if anyone is interested. I'll fish it out of the treasure box if someone asks about it. I can say that the special treatment we got was quite remarkable. The host took the ring from me when we arrived, and presented it on a silver platter (covered) surrounded by fresh rose petals, right before dessert was served. I didn't request this; it was just thought up by the host. If he is reading this, I would like to thank him for such an amazing job. Also I think I should apologize for getting so... er, ... nervous. I definately lost my cool that night, but it all worked out. Anyway. The point is, this restaurant is incredibly romantic and perfect in its presentation and service. Some of the most extrordinary waitstaff I've ever seen in my life, even when we came back again for restaurant week the following summer.

[Nathan]

I'm trying to think how to put this: you will find substantial disagreement on this forum -- most would consider this to be one of the worst restaurants in the city (at least in the quality/price sense)...as for the host having "thought up" the rose petal thingy...he didn't think up anything, they apparently do a couple engagements a night....and probably a shitload on NYE.

[oakapple]

I'm trying to think how to put this: you will find substantial disagreement on this forum -- most would consider this to be one of the worst restaurants in the city (at least in the quality/price sense)

←

One if By Land is the foodies' bete noire. It attracts vitriol far in excess of what it deserves, simply because the food doesn't live up to the ambiance and the prices. This does not mean the food there is objectively bad, but in any other setting the restaurant would not be able to charge what it does without delivering the goods a lot more consistently. Foodies resent it, because OIBL's popularity is derived from "non-food reasons."

As Frank Bruni noted in his recent mini-review, the ambiance remains heavenly, and on occasion the kitchen turns out a great meal. For someone who's into food, the restaurant's performance is too erratic to justify a $65 prix fixe, but one must accept that there are other legitimate reasons for patronizing a restaurant. For the right occasion—such as an engagement—OIBL is the ticket, and there's noplace in New York quite like it.

Edited June 1, 2005 by oakapple (log)

[James Kessler]

I am aware of OIBL's status as part of the Tavern on the Green, Four Seasons, Cafe des Artistes tier of restaurants. Of course there will be substantial disagreement on this fourm and elsewhere. My opionion is that OIBL is head and shoulders above Tavern, and Cafe des Artistes. I have eaten at all of those, but not at Four Seasons. I've also tried the New Leaf Cafe, which I also think can't measure up to OIBL. Granted this is all just my opinion, but I felt the food was significantly better at OIBL than at all those others. And, as others have said, the atmosphere and service are quite exceptional. Many other NYC restaurants don't bring that level of service. As for the $65 prix fixe, I think that price is extremely reasonable. $200 for a tasting menu with fois gras at Per Se, on the other hand... well, you can make the comparison yourself. I'm not saying that Per Se's food wasn't good. All I'm saying is that for $65 you certainly get your money's worth and a very fine meal.

As for the engagements every night, I have absolutely no doubt. There were at least one or two others the same night as my own. I am sure that the rose petal thing is not particularly unique, but it definately made my fiancee feel pretty special, and that is the point, isn't it? True, from a "pure food" standpoint, ONE might not be the "number one" in the city, but I don't think they are trying to be that. For a romantic and charming restaurant in the Village, with very good food and excellent atmosphere, they have definately lived up to their aspirations. I would consider it one of the most romantic and charming restaurants I have ever visited anywhere, and rate the food as very good or extremely good. Maybe not excellent or outstanding. Let's not forget what goes into a restaurant experience... it is more than just what is on the plate. That is perhaps the most important factor, but not the only one.

[R Washburn]

As for the $65 prix fixe, I think that price is extremely reasonable.  $200 for a tasting menu with fois gras at Per Se, on the other hand... well, you can make the comparison yourself.  I'm not saying that Per Se's food wasn't good.  All I'm saying is that for $65 you certainly get your money's worth and a very fine meal. 

I would rather have the one meal at Per Se than three at OIBL. I am not saying it is a bad restaurant, just that Per Se is more than 3x as good. If your main interest is food, you can do a lot better at that price point.

[Nathan]

As for the $65 prix fixe, I think that price is extremely reasonable.  $200 for a tasting menu with fois gras at Per Se, on the other hand... well, you can make the comparison yourself.  I'm not saying that Per Se's food wasn't good.  All I'm saying is that for $65 you certainly get your money's worth and a very fine meal. 

I would rather have the one meal at Per Se than three at OIBL. I am not saying it is a bad restaurant, just that Per Se is more than 3x as good. If your main interest is food, you can do a lot better at that price point.

←

second this.

and imho, I don't find its atmosphere to be "charming and romantic" at all. maybe the bar area, but that's about it.

it's a tourist trap in my book.

[James Kessler]

Alright I can see that I'm fighting an uphill battle here. I'm just going to let it go by saying that to claim that this restaurant is "one of the worst in New York" from any standpoint, be it quality/price or otherwise is very foolish. I think if any of you thought about it for 30 seconds, you could come up with a list of resaurants you have tried in New York that cost nearly as much which have truly terrible food. I know I wouldn't have much difficulty. As for it being a "tourist trap," perhaps it may be frequented more by tourists than locals or foodies, but each time I went there I enjoyed it very much. I think that's about all I have to say on this.

[oakapple]

Alright I can see that I'm fighting an uphill battle here.  I'm just going to let it go by saying that to claim that this restaurant is "one of the worst in New York" from any standpoint, be it quality/price or otherwise is very foolish.

←

James, you aren't fighting an uphill battle with me. I think you've summarized the place quite reasonably. Comments like "one of the worst in New York" and "tourist trap" clearly aren't analytically defensible. I think it's more reasonable to put this restaurant in a class with similar places like Tavern on the Green and Cafe des Artistes, which fill a useful and important niche, but aren't known mainly for their food.

By the way, I think Tavern quite possibly is primarily a tourist place; I can't think of the last time I heard about a New York resident going there, except perhaps as a favor to visiting friends or relatives. But both CdA and OIBL do significant local business. One must recognize that eGullet posters are an atypical bunch, and our criteria for choosing and judging restaurants aren't universally shared.

[Dryden]

Just wanted to add that a good friend of ours is the pianist at OIBL, and while we like him very much, and had a lovely time there last year, I can't imagine ever going back for the food.

[James Kessler]

Well I'm quite relieved by oakapple's comments. This basically summarizes what I was trying to say about OIBL. Yes, it is in a category with Tavern and Cafe des Artistes, but it is at the top end of that niche, rather than at the bottom end. I know Egulleters don't represent the typical restaurant-goer, but it should be obvious to anyone that the overall reason for eating at a restaurant is OVERALL total enjoyment, not just pure stimulation of the taste buds only. With this in mind I felt as if OIBL delivers a fairly good package of overall enjoyment, even if the food doesn't measure up to SOME people's standards. By the way Dryden, I am a professional musician, not a professional in the food industry. I was listening rather closely to the pianist both times I was there, and I was extremely impressed. I don't know if it was your friend I was hearing, but if it was, then my highest compliments to your pianist friend.

[R Washburn]

I think it's more reasonable to put this restaurant in a class with similar places like Tavern on the Green and Cafe des Artistes, which fill a useful and important niche, but aren't known mainly for their food.

Yes, we need restaurants for people who don't care about food.