A couple of pleasant places out of the summer hurly-burly in Bordeaux

[JayP]

Haven't been in the city in awhile, but have to return for work in July and I just remember it being pretty overrun where I was before... Any recommendations about nice spots away from the main crowds would be lovely.

Thanks much

[Dave Hatfield]

I could recommend a number of places, but they're quite a ways from the city.

Believe it or not there are other places in France; in fact there are even other 'cities'.

[JayP]

I could recommend a number of places, but they're quite a ways from the city.

Believe it or not there are other places in France; in fact there are even other 'cities'.

Dave,

thanks, but I think you misunderstood. I have to be in Bordeaux city for work for a couple of weeks. I won't want to travel outside the city very far for dinners and lunches.

I am of course aware that there is more to France than Bordeaux of all places. But I needed Bordeaux-specific help.

cheers,

--jp

[bethesdabakers]

If you haven’t been to Bordeaux for a while you might be pleasantly surprised by the way the city has improved. A few years back it was total chaos while they were building the tramway and developing the waterfront but now that is completed it’s a pleasure to stroll around.

We usually spend time in Arcachon each year so Bordeaux experiences are normally day trips. Being creatures of habit (and wanting to get down to lunch) our routine is to take the tram into the centre, start at that wonderful independent bookshop, Mollat, on Rue Vital Carles, study the food section, and to start working our way back towards the station, maybe taking in the food books in FNAC on St Catherine (always hoping for a new bread book), cutting down towards St Michel, stopping to have a beer outside Utopia Cinema in the lovely sunny square, then drifting down through the streets of North African shops (trying not to buy another tagine) to the top of rue Porte de la Monnaie and inevitably into La Tupina for lunch. It has been a little fashionable of late to knock Tupina as an over-priced tourist restaurant but only by people who don’t know how to enjoy life. Jean-Pierre Xiradakis seems to own most of the street with Café Tupina on the bottom corner, La Tupina itself a few yards up, Le Comestible, the epicerie, and the hotel, Le Maison Fredon, opposite, Kuzina, the fish restaurant, further up the street, and Bar-Cave de la Monnaie on the next corner.

An unusual source of information, so long as you have a Kindle, is to download for free, Bruno et le pere Noel by Martin Walker. At the end of the book he gives quite a detailed list of his favourite food places in the Bordeaux area. This includes Boeuf sur la Place in Pessac at the end of the tram line where we had an excellent lunch in May with the added bonus (for us) of discovering the Tuesday organic market both in the town square.

The museum of contemporary art is worth going to see just for the building, never mind the exhibitions, and has a beautiful dining room up on the roof. Haven’t eaten there for a few years but it was pretty good – might only be lunch.

Also on the tram is La Cape in Cenon if you want a gastronomic tasting menu.

Being at the hub of the regional transport, it’s easy to use public transport to get out of the city to nearby towns and villages. Arcachon is only 50 minutes on the train – current favourite local restaurant Restaurant du Port in La Teste-de-Buche, the stop before Arcachon, within view of the station. Unpretentious, with a large covered terrace overlooking the port.

Wish I had six months in Bordeaux.

[JayP]

Mick,

thanks much for taking the time to conjure it up so evocatively. I will do that exact walk... and maybe the trip out to arcachon, as well... this was exactly the kind of information I need... am there no and in fact will hit La Tupine in an hour or so...

cheers.

-- jp