eG Foodblog: Chris Amirault (2010) - Holidays in Rhode Island

[weinoo]

Given that it will be served as the starch with the daube, how do you think it should be prepared?

I'd argue for Dorie's herbed spaetzle recipe. Finely chopped herbs in the dough and the spaetzle are sauteed with mushrooms. Here's the recipe as it ran in Bon App, though I'm sure I've seen it in one of her books too.

But if you want to make your life easier, just boil plain spaetzle and toss in a bowl with butter.

I was thinking exactly the same thing.

And if you saute them (mushrooms or not), you can get them a little browned and crispy on the outside - it makes for a nice textural contrast.

[Chris Amirault]

Browned in butter sounds tasty....

Some shopping pix, banal for the east coasters, I'm sure. Here's one of the two big local grocery stores, Shaw's:

My battle plan attached to the advertising frame, and the reusable bags that I often forget in the car. (Did you know that Whole Foods replaces those for free when they break or are too disgusting to hold food any more?)

The big chains support a lot of local products now, including:

Making headway before crossing the street to Whole Foods:

I have several shopping tics. Perhaps you have your own. Mine include always, and I mean always, bagging my own groceries. It's clearly a lost art that no store employees bother to teach or learn. I have repeatedly embarrassed the family by leaping down the cashier aisle to wrest an item from an unwitting bagger.

So, with absurd pride, I present:

Another is parking near the shopping cart collection point: less chance of a ding from another car or cart:

Then off to the big Whole Foods:

Not much to show there besides massive crowds bossing around miserable, tattooed alt/DIY/off-the-grid WF employees shaking their heads at the ruling class's consumerism. That pays their paychecks.

[KD1191]

I've always grated the Gruyère for gougères. However, I had them with crumbled Bleu d'Auvergne at a place in Paris on my last visit and they were spectacular. Will be giving that a try the next time I make them.

I do like Gruyere in Gougere's, but you might also want to try a batch with Bleu Cheese. It's a wonderful combination of salty, tangy Bleu with the puffy little Gougere pastry.

That's two votes for bleu in gougères...all opposed?

What did Pichet Ong have to say, Chris?

Edited December 23, 2010 by KD1191 (log)

[Chris Amirault]

True blue, eh?

He said he'd send it via email later today.

[Chris Amirault]

Back from shopping, and hoping that I've reached that most special of holiday moments for the home cook: realizing you don't have to leave the house again until after service.

Boy, was that stupid to say. Headed out for one more bottle of wine and a drop-off for a movie.

[Chris Amirault]

Back with a bottle of Perrin & Fils Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2007, which Dennis Joyal recommended (as did Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate, the internet tells me). Dennis runs Joyals, one of the best liquor stores I've ever been to in the US. Couldn't tell from the sign:

But that wall right there? That's the biggest selection of aged spirits -- rums, scotches, bourbons, ryes -- that I've ever seen.

One perk of moving is that this remarkable store is now four minutes from my doorstep.

A couple more drink notes. This is my tea selection, usually sitting in a box at my office.

The set up is simple, bought on sale at Isetan in Tokyo last July:

Most of my teas are black teas, with an oolong, hojicha and a puerh thrown in for a bit of variety. I have just been following my palate through a variety of earthy, toasty options thanks to the tea nuts over in the Coffee & Tea forum. Special thanks to Richard Kilgore, who has made a lot of great suggestions.

Getting dinner prepped, as well as a few other things. More in a bit.

[Pam R]

I love seeing American grocery stores. Thanks.

With all this planning, prepping and shopping for Christmas - what's up for dinner tonight?

[Chris Amirault]

Wild gulf shrimp were on sale, and the artichokes looked good, so we're having a family favorite: Old Bay shrimp boil, artichokes, and an olive baguette from Seven Stars Bakery, still a favorite around here after many years. (Click here to see their shop, from my first foodblog; that magnificent oven was insufficient for production baking, sadly, and was dismantled.) Dinner pix to follow.

Playing a bit of catch up on the meal prep. I've decided to make fresh tortillas with Rick Bayless's carnitas following this recipe. Corn prep later tonight; last night, got the pork going. Here's the meat from the Chinese market:

Made a spice rub with the following ingredients, including some very good dried epazote -- usually a contradiction in terms -- from a local Mexican market and some great stuff from Steve Sandos's outstanding Rancho Gordo online store (here, he's rancho_gordo, natch).

Then, into a bag with... ACK! I'm out of lard! Good thing I have some beef fat laying around, so that's what went in:

It's in the SVS at 62C for another day, then I'll pull and crisp it up before service.

[Chris Hennes]

ACK! I'm out of lard!

All this careful planning, and you STILL blow it. Sheesh. Out of lard!

[Chris Amirault]

Found some in the freezer. Had to dig around:

It's like Fibber McGee's closet in there these days....

[Chris Hennes]

I gather someone in the house likes English Muffins?

[Marlene]

Found some in the freezer. Had to dig around:

It's like Fibber McGee's closet in there these days....

I have the identical freezer, but my shelves don't seem to fit properly and everytime I put any weight on them, they fall down.

[Chris Amirault]

I gather someone in the house likes English Muffins?

They were on sale -- and they are a crucial component of one of the family's most treasured meals. More on that tomorrow.

I have the identical freezer, but my shelves don't seem to fit properly and everytime I put any weight on them, they fall down.

Really? Most of what you see in there is meat, stock, and other heavy stuff.

[Marlene]

I think the freezer itself is warped. The company even sent replacement shelves and it still happens. I can tell you when and if I move, that cursed freezer will not be moving with me!

[Chris Amirault]

Artichoke logistics. I make the salted steaming liquid somewhat aromatic, with peppercorns, bay leaves, and a strip of lemon peel.

An OXO bread knife and Chicago Cutlery shears take care of the prep:

And in they go:

I also steamed some broccoli that we got today:

Meanwhile, the cooking brine for the shrimp is somewhat similar, with the lemon peel, some peppercorns, but also some onion and garlic. The Old Bay got dumped in after it simmered for a while:

Dinner is served. One special treat: because the daube requires some marrow, I bought enough for Bebe, who fiends for the stuff. (Nick Lowe once said that he was pretty suspicious of parents who talked about their preschoolers listening to nothing but the Clash's London Calling; I realize that roasted marrow is the food enthusiast equivalent of that boast, though, I swear, I speak the truth.)

At the table, the shrimp, bread, broccoli, artichokes, and marrow:

Two observations on a nice, easy dinner.

1. I have no idea whether I'm buying killer or crappy artichokes. These were killer: meaty, beaty, big and bouncy. But my selection process was the same as it has been for slim, bland, lousy ones. Thoughts?

2. Shrimp + beef bone marrow = some crazy good food. Not that I stole bone marrow of a child's plate to slather it all over my shrimp.

[Chris Amirault]

Tonight's drink is pretty straightforward, though no less meaningful for that.

The book that first taught me about cocktails was Gary Regan's Joy of Mixology. I read it cover to cover twice, took notes all over it, and learned most of the basics there. There are other books that I find have more compelling narratives or recipes, but, as a primer, I can't imagine anything to match it.

In that book is a recipe for a Bennett Cocktail, a bumped-up version of a gin sour that goes way back: gin, lime, sugar, bitters. Regan's addition of a dash of Chartreuse was a revelation for me, taking a simple sour and transforming it into something magical.

In early 2010, I got asked to be on the opening team at Cook & Brown Public House. Grateful to be part of such an exciting endeavor, I dove in: I Scotch-guarded chairs; I tore down the bar; I did whatever I could to get a ramshackle neighborhood joint up to a very high standard. When we were getting ready for the soft opening, we realized that we didn't have a fizzy gateway drink that would appeal both to cocktail nuts and people new to quality mixed drinks.

Frankly, I felt outclassed, an amateur "mixologist" who was little more than a dilettante. But then I remembered Gary Regan's Bennett Cocktail, and started fiddling: added some soda, bumped the Chartreuse, and "created" -- the word is overweening, to say the least -- the Bennett Fizz.

2 oz gin (London dry -- Beefeater, Tanqueray, etc. -- if you have it)

1 oz lime

1/2 oz simple syrup

1/4 oz Chartreuse

dash Angostura

soda

Shake all but soda; strain into highball glass while pouring soda over big rocks.

That drink was on the cocktail menu for months, the biggest seller for much of the opening quarter. We still get asked for it even though that it's slipped off the menu, because it does what it's supposed to do and tastes great.

As the first drink I ever designed for a restaurant cocktail menu, well, I think that's pretty damned cool.

[Dave the Cook]

1. I have no idea whether I'm buying killer or crappy artichokes. These were killer: meaty, beaty, big and bouncy. But my selection process was the same as it has been for slim, bland, lousy ones. Thoughts?

I'll be interested to hear what peeps have to say about artichoke selection. A dish I'm planning for New Year's Day requires excellent artichokes, and I've had the same experience as you.

2. Shrimp + beef bone marrow = some crazy good food. Not that I stole bone marrow of a child's plate to slather it all over my shrimp.

When I was about Bebe's age, I would steal the bone from the round steak my mother fried for dinner and suck the marrow out before it got to the table. At some point, she quit making it, and I forgot about it. It was a good 35 years before I had marrow again, thanks to Fergus Henderson.

[vice]

Frankly, I felt outclassed, an amateur "mixologist" who was little more than a dilettante. But then I remembered Gary Regan's Bennett Cocktail, and started fiddling: added some soda, bumped the Chartreuse, and "created" -- the word is overweening, to say the least -- the Bennett Fizz.

That chartreuse is green, I assume?

[Pierogi]

Here's the family recipe book:

That notebook rocks.

Those flour dispensers are absolutely the coolest thing I have *ever* seen. I love them. Do they do a good job of keeping the little buggies out?

[Merridith]

1. I have no idea whether I'm buying killer or crappy artichokes. These were killer: meaty, beaty, big and bouncy. But my selection process was the same as it has been for slim, bland, lousy ones. Thoughts?

Artichokes were one of the earliest "exotic" foods I was introduced to by my mother who, even in the 1960's, knew that fresh and seasonal was the formula for the best food. Never buy one if the leaves are curling in on themself, the edges are browning or it feels "dry." Look for tight/compact construction, a good solid feel and a sense of plenty of moisture. Artichokes, if kept at the right temp, have a fairly long shelf life. Also, size matters - small and scrawny are no good. Then again, they don't have to be giant and I have had more misses with these than with the reasonable sized ones. Small in artichokes works only if they are really "baby" chokes. A great way to prepare them and to help to avoid over cooking is to scrape out the choke before you put them in the water. I like to stuff them with butter and parm cheese. Also, they are yummy if you undercook them slightly, then quarter them, douse them well in olive oil and sea salt and cook them the rest of the way on your grill.

[FrogPrincesse]

Love the built-in flour dispensers too. What a great feature!

I am also admiring your mid-century dishes and matching glasses. Absolutely perfect for your house. May I ask where you found them?

And of course the food is incredibly inspiring. Can't wait to see your Christmas meal!

[Chris Amirault]

Morning!

Frankly, I felt outclassed, an amateur "mixologist" who was little more than a dilettante. But then I remembered Gary Regan's Bennett Cocktail, and started fiddling: added some soda, bumped the Chartreuse, and "created" -- the word is overweening, to say the least -- the Bennett Fizz.

That chartreuse is green, I assume?

Yep.

[Chris Amirault]

Those flour dispensers are absolutely the coolest thing I have *ever* seen. I love them. Do they do a good job of keeping the little buggies out?

So far so good. We had big pantry moth problems at the other house and haven't so far here -- knock wood.

I am also admiring your mid-century dishes and matching glasses. Absolutely perfect for your house. May I ask where you found them?

Some online (eBay mainly) but most were either yard sale/thift store finds or gifts. The dominant pattern is Blue Heaven.

[Chris Amirault]

On artichokes:

1. I have no idea whether I'm buying killer or crappy artichokes. These were killer: meaty, beaty, big and bouncy. But my selection process was the same as it has been for slim, bland, lousy ones. Thoughts?

Never buy one if the leaves are curling in on themself, the edges are browning or it feels "dry." Look for tight/compact construction, a good solid feel and a sense of plenty of moisture. Artichokes, if kept at the right temp, have a fairly long shelf life. Also, size matters - small and scrawny are no good. Then again, they don't have to be giant and I have had more misses with these than with the reasonable sized ones.

Yep, all that makes sense to me -- but I've bought ones that met every standard at the store and weren't as good as these were. Seems a crap shoot....

Small in artichokes works only if they are really "baby" chokes. A great way to prepare them and to help to avoid over cooking is to scrape out the choke before you put them in the water. I like to stuff them with butter and parm cheese. Also, they are yummy if you undercook them slightly, then quarter them, douse them well in olive oil and sea salt and cook them the rest of the way on your grill.

Agreed! I also think that, like a grilled or roasted piece of meat, it's good to pull these from the heat with them a bit underdone, to avoid them getting mushy.

Soon, breakfast for the biggest day of cooking so far.

[weinoo]

On artichokes:

1. I have no idea whether I'm buying killer or crappy artichokes. These were killer: meaty, beaty, big and bouncy. But my selection process was the same as it has been for slim, bland, lousy ones. Thoughts?

Never buy one if the leaves are curling in on themself, the edges are browning or it feels "dry." Look for tight/compact construction, a good solid feel and a sense of plenty of moisture. Artichokes, if kept at the right temp, have a fairly long shelf life. Also, size matters - small and scrawny are no good. Then again, they don't have to be giant and I have had more misses with these than with the reasonable sized ones.

Yep, all that makes sense to me -- but I've bought ones that met every standard at the store and weren't as good as these were. Seems a crap shoot....

Small in artichokes works only if they are really "baby" chokes. A great way to prepare them and to help to avoid over cooking is to scrape out the choke before you put them in the water. I like to stuff them with butter and parm cheese. Also, they are yummy if you undercook them slightly, then quarter them, douse them well in olive oil and sea salt and cook them the rest of the way on your grill.

Over in this topic, I wrote this re: artichokes...

Indeed. A nice, fresh artichoke will be firm and will give off a squeak when you squeeze it. It will also feel heavy in the hand. Frost burned tips are not a problem (and probably not a worry in the summer) as they are thought to make for an especially tasty artichoke.

As Russ Parsons says in the aforementioned How To Pick A Peach:

You can tell really fresh artichokes because their leaves will squeak when you rub them together.