Dinner @ Frontera Grill

[awbrig]

My wife and I had the pleasure of eating with Lady T and Steve Plotnicki last night @ Rick Bayless' Frontera Grill. We had a great time and the food was very good - Steve told me he would rate it a solid B+.

We started out with a few Topolo margaritas and shared:

Cóctel de Camarones

Gulf shrimp in tangy roasted tomato salsa with avocado and cruncy fresh garnishes

Entremés Surtido

appetizer platter of cheesey quesadillas, crispy chicken taquitos with sour cream, tangy seviche tostadas, and guacamole

Tostaditas de Seviche

crisp little tortillas piled with lime-marinated marlin, manzanillo olives, tomato, serrano and cilantro

Ensalada de Jícama

jícama salad with cucumber, pineapple and tangy orange dressing.

Steve had:

Carne Asada

charcoal-grilled, butterflied, Coleman natural ribeye, marinated in red-chile, with black beans, fried plantains with sour cream, and guacamole

Lady T had:

Pollito a las Brasas

free-range baby chicken, border-style. Half-boned, marinated in garlic and sweet spices, grilled. Frijoles charros, charcoaled green onions, jícama

Frijoles Charros - pinto beans simmered with bacon, poblanos, tomato and cilantro

Awbrig had:

Tacos al Carbón with wood-grilled Amish country duck marinated with red-chile adobo sliced and served with roasted pepper rajas, two salsas, frijoles charros, guacamole, and homemade tortillas

Frijoles Charros - pinto beans simmered with bacon, poblanos, tomato and cilantro

Allison (my wife) had:

Tacos al Carbón - wood-grilled Red chile-marinated pork (pastor style), with charcoaled pineapple, slab bacon and red onion (no rajas) sliced and served with roasted pepper rajas, two salsas, frijoles charros, guacamole, and homemade tortillas

Frijoles Charros - pinto beans simmered with bacon, poblanos, tomato and cilantro

Afterwards we hit a new desert place in Chicago called Sugar.

[awbrig]

One of our waiters making a Topolo margarita

The finished product

appetizer platter of cheesey quesadillas, crispy chicken taquitos with sour cream, tangy seviche tostadas, and guacamole

Gulf shrimp in tangy roasted tomato salsa with avocado and cruncy fresh garnishes

charcoal-grilled, butterflied, Coleman natural ribeye, marinated in red-chile, with black beans, fried plantains with sour cream, and guacamole

free-range baby chicken, border-style. Half-boned, marinated in garlic and sweet spices, grilled. Frijoles charros, charcoaled green onions, jícama

wood-grilled Amish country duck marinated with red-chile adobo sliced and served with roasted pepper rajas, two salsas, frijoles charros, guacamole, and homemade tortillas

wood-grilled Red chile-marinated pork (pastor style), with charcoaled pineapple, slab bacon and red onion (no rajas) sliced and served with roasted pepper rajas, two salsas, frijoles charros, guacamole, and homemade tortillas

[Suvir Saran]

My wife and I had the pleasure of eating with Lady T and Steve Plotnicki last night @ Rick Bayless' Frontera Grill last night.  We had a great time and the food was very good - Steve told me he would rate it a solid B+.

One of many things Steve and I would have to agree on.

B+ is a very fair rating.

I have eaten there quite a few times.. and that would be an honest average if I were to calculate one.

[Suvir Saran]

Afterwards we hit a new desert place in Chicago called Sugar.

Want to know more...

[awbrig]

Here are Lady T's notes in re to Frontera and Sugar...reprinted with Lady T's permission

My rating for the meal is a B, which is down from the A-/B+ I would've given it on previous visits. Not that anything about the meal was specifically bad -- the appetizers particularly were impressive -- but the excitement I expected on the plate with the main course wasn't there. The pollito was very nicely done and I appreciated the care that had been taken with the partial deboning, but I wanted a deeper flavor from the spices grilled on/into the skin. The beans were underseasoned for my taste, and while I like greens with queso fresco, I can slice romaine lettuce crosswise at home and sprinkle cheese on 'em myself without running down to River North, if you see what I mean. All the above is, for me, minor stuff that could've been avoided if the expediter at the pass in the kitchen had been riding stricter herd on the proceedings. Rick needs to clamp down on that crew the minute he can get the time free.

Now that I've been there, I find that I do agree with Aurora: Frontera has slipped a notch. The good news, though, is that the previous level was so high in any case that slipping a notch means it's still pretty dang good.

The dessert I had at Sugar was a tapioca pudding with blueberries in a blueberry sauce on top; the nice Trotter-ish geometric plating you noticed was pretty much the raciest thing about the dish. The whole textural thing with the little beads of tapioca and the little globes of berries was cute, but it was frankly sort of two-dimensional at best. I honestly expected more complexity, and it wasn't happening -- it cemented my conviction that Sugar is a club with incidental food rather than a serious sweets place (that happens to be full of skinny trendinistas in black who are immune to the 85-decibel ambiance). I won't knock the place particularly, but I'd steer anybody who was serious about food somewhere else.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Suvir - Once upon a time Frontera Grill was a solid A minus, possibly an A. But like with so many places that have been in business a long time, the kitchen stops cooking at a high level of intensity. But the good news is that Mexican food is more forgiving then other cuisines would be and the meal was still very enjoyable. In fact I wish they had a place like Frontera in NYC.

Sugar was written up in the New York Times this past summer. It bills itself as a "dessert bar and club." And although the Times made the physical plant sound more exotic and appealing then it was, in fact it was like going to any smalller club for drinks. Except that this place has about 20 different desserts on their menu. Unfortunately, the way they are presented is pretentious and they are all given silly names that make "Death by Chocolate" sound like War & Peace. I had a Yam Caramel atop an almond torte and the whole concoction was swimming in what seemed to be almond mil. It wasn't bad, but the loud music (it's a club remember) and the written presentation were a little distracting. But I thought the concept was a great one and something a serious pastry chef like a Pierre Herme could consider. They were charging between $12 and $20 for desserts, plus they sold everything of coffee to champagne. And it was the fisrt place I had ever seen where a velvet rope was needed to keep people from having dessert!

[Suvir Saran]

The dessert I had at Sugar was a tapioca pudding with blueberries in a blueberry sauce on top; the nice Trotter-ish geometric plating you noticed was pretty much the raciest thing about the dish. The whole textural thing with the little beads of tapioca and the little globes of berries was cute, but it was frankly sort of two-dimensional at best. I honestly expected more complexity, and it wasn't happening -- it cemented my conviction that Sugar is a club with incidental food rather than a serious sweets place (that happens to be full of skinny trendinistas in black who are immune to the 85-decibel ambiance). I won't knock the place particularly, but I'd steer anybody who was serious about food somewhere else.

Thanks LadyT.

What were some of the other dessert offerings?

I have no desire anymore to go to places that only get famous for they have trendinistas giving them their presence.

When I crave good food I want it good.

I can go for good company to other places.

And how would you describe "incidental" food?

Thanks for your posts and the permission you gave Awbrig to reproduce your word.

And thanks are owed to Awbrig as well.

[Suvir Saran]

Suvir - Once upon a time Frontera Grill was a solid A minus, possibly an A. But like with so many places that have been in business a long time, the kitchen stops cooking at a high level of intensity. But the good news is that Mexican food is more forgiving then other cuisines would be and the meal was still very enjoyable. In fact I wish they had a place like Frontera in NYC.

True, very true. Thanks Steve. I too was once very charmed by Frontera Grill. And the ever so subtle shimmer in the dark curtains was always very attractive. I shall return to it on this next trip.

[Suvir Saran]

The dessert I had at Sugar was a tapioca pudding with blueberries in a blueberry sauce on top; the nice Trotter-ish geometric plating you noticed was pretty much the raciest thing about the dish. The whole textural thing with the little beads of tapioca and the little globes of berries was cute, but it was frankly sort of two-dimensional at best. I honestly expected more complexity, and it wasn't happening -- it cemented my conviction that Sugar is a club with incidental food rather than a serious sweets place (that happens to be full of skinny trendinistas in black who are immune to the 85-decibel ambiance). I won't knock the place particularly, but I'd steer anybody who was serious about food somewhere else.

Thanks LadyT.

What were some of the other dessert offerings?

I have no desire anymore to go to places that only get famous for they have trendinistas giving them their presence.

When I crave good food I want it good.

I can go for good company to other places.

And how would you describe "incidental" food?

Thanks for your posts and the permission you gave Awbrig to reproduce your word.

And thanks are owed to Awbrig as well.

[Suvir Saran]

Sugar was written up in the New York Times this past summer. It bills itself as a "dessert bar and club." And although the Times made the physical plant sound more exotic and appealing then it was, in fact it was like going to any smalller club for drinks. Except that this place has about 20 different desserts on their menu. Unfortunately, the way they are presented is pretentious and they are all given silly names that make "Death by Chocolate" sound like War & Peace. I had a Yam Caramel atop an almond torte and the whole concoction was swimming in what seemed to be almond mil. It wasn't bad, but the loud music (it's a club remember) and the written presentation were a little distracting. But I thought the concept was a great one and something a serious pastry chef like a Pierre Herme could consider. They were charging between $12 and $20 for desserts, plus they sold everything of coffee to champagne. And it was the fisrt place I had ever seen where a velvet rope was needed to keep people from having dessert!

Only in Chicago! Or maybe even Bombay.

[awbrig]

Here is a link showing pictures of the interior of Sugar and the kind of people you would expect to see there...

http://www.chicago-scene.com/2002photohtm/...-02-sugar-b.htm

[Steve Plotnicki]

You should consider opening up such a place with an Indian theme. I might even be willing to put in some funding. We can attract the elite Indian crowd for late night ras malai and dancing.

Actually I am joking but there is a dearth of places that are dessert specialists. There is Serendipity but is there anything else? There really is a market there that someone should tap into. This combination of high end desserts and high end dessert wines and champagnes has potential.

[Suvir Saran]

Here is a link showing pictures of the interior of Sugar and the kind of people you would expect to see there...

http://www.chicago-scene.com/2002photohtm/...-02-sugar-b.htm

Which one is the pic I should look at to find you?

[Suvir Saran]

You should consider opening up such a place with an Indian theme. I might even be willing to put in some funding. We can attract the elite Indian crowd for late night ras malai and dancing. 

I would take you on your word.

[awbrig]

I was taking all the pictures!

[Suvir Saran]

Actually I am joking but there is a dearth of places that are dessert specialists. There is Serendipity but is there anything else? There really is a market there that someone should tap into. This combination of high end desserts and high end dessert wines and champagnes has potential.

I would agree completely. Serendipity is there.. but we could do better.

And certainly I would be a daily customer at any such place in NYC. I love desserts.. and if I have to imbibe.... Nothing like dessert wines and champagnes. Really.. my favorites.

[Suvir Saran]

I was taking all the pictures!

A strategic move on the restaurants part maybe?

[Steve Plotnicki]

You know a place like Rhone in the meatpacking district but featuring desserts and dessert wines. It would be soooooo trendy.

[Steve Plotnicki]

I should add that my steak at Frontera was very good. It was marinated in red chiles and it had an edge to it that made it interesting. Just a tinge hot and spicy. And well salted. And surprisingly, as per my instructions, it came out perfectly rare with a thin char crust on each side.

Also, have you had the Naga Chocolate Truffles at Vosges in Chicago? They are dusted with a sweetish curry powder. They give you an assortment of truffles when you check in and I loved it and went downstairs and bought an entire chocolate bar that was dusted in the curry powder.

[awbrig]

Steve,

Have you read the Vosge thread i started a few weeks back?...great discussions re curry and chocolate!

Shouldnt you be getting ready for Trotters tonight!?!

[Lady T]

Suvir --

It may be that we caught Sugar's kitchen at an awkward moment in the turn of the seasons (which happened in about six hours flat here in Chicago; we started out yesterday morning in the low-to-mid 50's Fahrenheit, and dropped to the rainy, raw, low 40's/upper 30's in the course of the day, just in time for Steve to arrive ).

The upshot was that Steve asked for the flourless chocolate cake. They'd run out. I asked for the poached peach. They didn't have that either. I asked for the berries-and-cream concoction (I'm sparing you the far-too-precious menu descriptions), and it wasn't available because it wasn't seasonal any more (why, oh why was it on that insufficiently-damned menu then?!?). Steve found his dessert before I could find something that appealed to me; the waiter wasn't quite tapping his foot while I hemmed and hawed over the verbose menu in the insufficient light (they'd turned it down for romance value, I would guess), but I finally went for the tapioca.

Thus and therefore: I referred to the food at Sugar as incidental because it definitely took place behind the general suave-of-the-scene in the place's priorities, also in the priorities of the see-and-be-seen's among the clientele.

Sorry about the excessive parenthetical asides -- I'm writing in haste.

[Suvir Saran]

Sorry about the excessive parenthetical asides -- I'm writing in haste.

And I am enjoying your writing. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

[Suvir Saran]

Also, have you had the Naga Chocolate Truffles at Vosges in Chicago? They are dusted with a sweetish curry powder. They give you an assortment of truffles when you check in and I loved it and went downstairs and bought an entire chocolate bar that was dusted in the curry powder.

I have had them. Not for me. But I am not refined enough as many on eGullet.

But also Steve I love chocolate and sweets.. and have had the good luck to have many friends in Paris and Antwerp who come to NYC often and bring me chocolates that have ruined the enjoyment of most chocolates by my palate. I can only enjoy the very best I have been used to or the very mediocre that my mind and body crave. Those are a part of my upbriging... a baggage I try to leave.. but cannot.

So while Vosges is certainly better than many chocolates we find in the US, it is not my favorite. I am sorry we may have to agree to disagree.

Maybe you will save some of the curry dusted chocolate for me.... We can make a trade when you get back to NYC....

[Suvir Saran]

Shouldnt you be getting ready for Trotters tonight!?!

I cannot wait to see how Steve enjoys his CT experience.

Waiting to see if we have more to agree or disagree about.

[Lady T]

I'm waiting eagerly for this account as well, and for the one to come about Trio in Evanston, which is where Steve will dine tomorrow night: I've heard a great deal about Grant Achatz' work up there, a great deal moreover in both directions -- either 'it's all foam and shock value and no substance', or 'it's all foam and he's an unbelievable genius and I can't wait to go there again'. I'm itching to find out where Steve comes down on that spectrum.