Batter Cake with Fresh Pears from the Correze -- Flaugnarde

[Wolfert]

Batter Cake with Fresh Pears from the Correze -- Flaugnarde

Serves 4 as Dessert.

From The Cooking of Southwest France, published by John Wiley and Sons, Inc.

Copyright 2005 by Paula Wolfert

"It's our best dessert," says Albert Parveaux, proprietor of the Chateau de Castel Novel. He is speaking of the flaugnarde of Corrèze, a superb soufflé-like fruit cake, similar to a German apple pancake. "But," he adds, "its simplicity is misunderstood by some of our guests, who think complexity is the same thing as excellence."

He explained the secrets of a successful flaugnarde: "First, never put sugar into it the way they do in the Périgord, because it won't rise on account of the extra weight. Second, be sure to use a metal dish, since metal heats up quicker and thus will give the batter a better rise. Third, only fill the pan to one third of its height‑the flaugnarde will thus have room to rise, and it will in fact fill the pan when baked.

You must eat this dessert while hot, though it will hold its rise as long as 10 minutes. When serving, slip it out of its pan onto a serving plate; then dust heavily with granulated sugar.

Be sure and visit the Cooking of the Southwest France topic in the cooking forum for a discussion of the book, testing notes and photos.

• 3 eggs
  
• 7 oz (about 1 1/2 cups) unbleached pastry flour
  
• Pinch of salt
  
• 1 c warm milk
  
• 1 T dark rum
  
• 2 tasty sweet pears, such as Cornice or Anjou
  
• 2-1/2 T unsalted butter
  
• Superfine sugar
  

2 TO 3 1/2 HOURS BEFORE SERVING, lightly beat the eggs in a mixing bowl. Sift the flour and salt; add to the eggs, stirring. Add 2 tablespoons warm milk and mix until the batter is completely smooth. Gradually stir in the remaining milk and the rum. Strain through a fine sieve and let stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 1/2 hours.

About 1 HOUR BEFORE SERVING, preheat the oven to 450°F. Peel, , halve, core, and thinly slice the pear; the 3 mm slicing disk of a food processor is perfect for the job. Using half the butter, lavishly grease a 8‑ or 9‑inch cake pan or straight‑sided ovenproof skillet. Pour in the batter and delicately lay the fruit slices on top. Dot with the remaining butter.

Bake in the bottom third of the oven for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F and bake for 30 to 35 minutes longer, or until well puffed and golden brown.

Use a spatula around the edges and under the cake to loosen. Transfer to a serving dish. Sprinkle lavishly with sugar and serve within 5 minutes.

Keywords: Dessert, French

( RG1487 )