stage left

[bunny]

i just noticed in table hopping that chef averbeck has recently left. what happened. did it not work out for him there or did he leave for another job.

[Rosie]

Karla Cook from The New York Times had a review for Stage Left on Oct 6. The following quote was in the review. "As the months wore on, it became apparent to us that one person was the leader of that team," said Mark Pascal one of three co-owners of the restaurant. "Dan was doing all the cooking."

[VRK]

I believe that the chef was let go a few weeks ago. i don't think that they have hired anyone so far.

[bunny]

has anyone eatin there since the change. good bad indiffrent.

[Helena Robinson]

We only had one meal during the Averbeck reign in the kitchen, but it was in the spring. I recall enjoying our meal and looking forward to seeing what he'd do with the fresh Jersey produce. Then I got laid off and spent the summer living the Procrit commercial...

We got a sneak peek at the renovation in progress in September when we stopped by after the food fest in New Brunswick (nice idea, pretty good food, could've been better organized). Having dined at this place since the beginning, things were changing quite a bit...

And then, a few weeks ago, we learned how difficult it is to get a bunch of doctors to get their calendars in sync when my next (brain) surgery got scheduled for Nov. 22, after we had dearly hoped for (first) the 7th and then the 18th. Looks like it'll be another Thanksgiving in the hospital.

So... It was obvious that after I hung up the phone with the doctor's office, we were in for one of those "drown your sorrows" nights. Since I had desperately wanted one more meal at Stage Left before the surgery, we got a reservation, a little earlier than expected.

The renovation has really transformed the atmosphere of this restaurant! The dining area now looks bright - the light colors remind me somewhat of Montrachet in New York.

The food? I didn't take notes that night, so I can't remember exactly what we had, though I think Ken had a filet. The one thing that did stick was that the gentleman in charge of the wine offered us a sampling of some

German wines, and Ken noted that one went especially well with au gratin potatoes. The response we got was, "Oh? It got thru the bacon?" Bacon??? We don't eat bacon (and the management knows that), so obviously we have to break someone else in on that. We now know that the chef has a penchant for mixing in pork fat or bacon, for those that are concerned about such things. We got a free dessert in compensation.

All in all, though, we think the food is just as good now, if not better. But that's just our (somewhat) humble opinion.

[Rail Paul]

Helena -

I hope things work out for you.

The bacon thing is particularly disturbing. The number of people with religious (halal kosher etc) or dietary needs (nuts wheat milk) is sufficient for chefs to plan menus and provide details. In an era when menus can describe details such as the cove from which a mussel was harvested, a brief mention of bacon, wheat, nuts etc isn't unreasonable.

Paul

[chopjwu12]

I have to disagree with ya paul. I think its the job of the person eating to ask if there are any problems such as bacon fat in the food. We advertise what cove the mussle is from because we want people to know we went out of our way to get the best muscles we can. A little thing like bacon or bacon fat has no place on the menu and would just take up room. Especially in this case where bacon was just a little tiny piece of the puzzle. If bacan plays a greater role in the dish then i can see mentioning it but not in this case. Its totally up to the diner to take that resposability into their own hands. After it is mentioned then it becomes the restaurants responsability.

[kenrbnsn]

I think its the job of the person eating to ask if there are any problems such as bacon fat in the food.

We normally do ask if the food has pork or shellfish in it, but we had never heard of Au Gratin Potatoes made with bacon, so we didn't ask.

Now we know to ask when we go to Stage Left again.

Ken (posting for a change, instead of just reading... )

[chopjwu12]

i guess i can understand that but i myself have made both with and without bacon. But i can see your point of it not being the norm. The new chef just spent the last couple of years in germany so i imagine alot of bacon fat and things will be used from now on.

[coquille]

i think other restaurants should follow the frog and the peach's lead and put a "v" next to truly vegetarian dishes. it doesn't detract from anything, and, in fact, is commendable, in my book. (i'm not a vegetarian, but my mom is.)

[Nockerl]

Florence Fabricant reported in Wednesday's times that Stage Left will be serving ( a heritage bird) Bourbon Red Turkeys on Thanksgiving.

[Rosie]

And I had a report about this on Table Hopping With Rosie a few weeks ago and spoke about it on the Arthur Schwartz radio show.

[Kim WB]

We went to the new and greatly improved Stage Left last nite. I called at 7pm for a reservation a half hour later.

At arrival, the maitre'd asked if we would prefer the dining room or the library. I explained that it had been a while since we were here for dinner, everything is changed, and so were not familiar with either. He offerred the "tour", whcih we accepted.

The entire front dining area has been made into a bar area..that round 6 top in the front window is now a long library table, lots of space and a great place to have a drink. The rooms are seperated by oversized walnut pocket doors, very effective.

The dining room with fireplace has been painted a muted gold/yellow color, and an adjoining( but seperated by matching doors) room the same. While these rooms were pleasant, and the color was great, they seemed very sparse, and the area lacked "warmth". Through another door, and into the "Old Vines" wine shoppe, which is now a dining room. What a great idea! All the original, ceiling to floor shelving ( they use a custom version of the diamond racks here) stacked with their wine inventory. Yes, the room was COLD temperature wise, but made up for it with the warm woods, and great atmosphere. We chose this room, which is what they refer to as the "Library". Once the chivalrous husband provided his suit jacket for my shoulders, all was well.

My husband was delighted to find a Barolo that he had been hunting for..in fact, I went on the Zachy's wait list for a bottle of this Ciabot Ginestra 98 at Christmas, and they still don't have it in stock...either does the Wine Library, and they usually find a way to accomodate my husband based on his buying history with them. As the captain decanted and poured, my husband expressed his pleasure about the wine list in general, and specifically that they had this hard to find selection. It was explained to us that this had been reserved, never picked up, so they were able to put a case back onto the list..and when my husband said he would like to buy whatever they had left, he said he would check. He came back a few moments later with two bottles in a bag, all ready to go. Well, at this point, you could have fed my husband canned soup and he would have LOVED this place, he was so delighted to "score" a hard to procure wine. This wine was $189 on the list, $89 retail.

But, it wasn't canned soup. Yes, a few misses, but an overall significant improvement. The amuse bouche was foie gras on a nutty, whole grain sweetened bread, and I believe a pear puree dollop on the top This missed for two reasons: the bread dominated the amuse if eaten in one bite, as intended. And the foie was too cold. On the second one, ( I really have a wonderful husband, who gives up anything "foie" to me, the moment he hears it) I left the bread behind, and let the foie melt in my mouth for a while..only then, could some of the flavor come out.

We both skipped bread, me because I am being virtuous, and my husband because neither of the two choices, grained nut berry combo bread or sourdough ,enticed him. I ordered the oysters, and DH had the Lamb carpaccio. I should qualify that I rarely order oysters unless I'm in an "oyster" kinda place, but DH couldn't decide between the two, and has so often ordered an app because I couldn't decide on which one, so I took the bullet this time. The Lamb was wonderful, with an excellent olive tapanade. The oyster were very fresh..Malpaque. . I prefer either lemon and coarse pepper on my oysters, or perhaps a warmed viniagrette. This was served with a champagne granite, which I did not think worked well w/ the already iced oysters. At least, I hope it was a granite, as it was ice.

For mains, I ordered scallops and DH had the duck special. The carmelized scallops were a wonderful dish, witha semolina calke that was great. The Magret duck breast was rare as ordered, nice flavor. Undercooked root vegs, nice reduction sauce...not syrup as some places present it. Generous portion.

SEvice throughout was great. The captain ws especially knowledgeable,a nd the waitress was excellent. Francis, who is either the owner or GM, came over during our meal, and we had a nice conversation about wines, he explained how during hte renovation, he didn't want to clsoe completely, so he used the Old Vines space,a nd it went over so well, he kept it. He discussed the situation witht he chef, and how he came to have his present chef. Very personable, and sold my husband on next weeks Spanish Wine tasting. ( DH is just getting started on Spanish Reds) Very enthusiastic and engaging person. Our waitress was a big foodie, and when DH was in the bathroom at the end of the meal, we had a nice conversation about Ryland/Nicholas/Rats...hopefully, she'll visit e-gullet soon! I told her all about it.

The server recited the specials ( three entrees) w/o prices and at the same time, discretely dropped a folded card onthe table with a one word description of each choice with t he price. I know we've discussed it herebefore..I thought it was a classy way to do it. All around us, the Porterhouse special was being served. 3# of dry aged, with a selcetion of generous sides, $90 for two. They carve the filet out of it, served it to one person, and the other gets the strip with bone. At least, that how the two tables near us asked for it to be served, ( and at different temps!) I'm sure they will butcher as requested.

If you recall, I was virtuous and skipped the bread. After the wine, virtue went out the window and I ordered the only thing on a not so impressive dessert list that caught my eye, a hazlenut torte. ( The cheese looked like a small, but diverse and high quality selection...but Bob wasn't interested and I passed). The torte was inedible, so cold that the cream in it was nearly frozen..I could NOT cut into the pice with the side of my spoon...So, Stage Left keeps their fridge way too cold. Even giving them the benefit of the doubt that the oysters were served with a granite, this dessert was close to frozen, no exaggeration. The waitress took it away with no problem.

All in all, a very good meal in a very pretty room with excellent service . Yes, a few flaws, but certainly an upgrade from past meals, and worth return visits...hopefully soon!

[Rosie]

Kim--Thanks for the detailed report and for the PR for eGullet!

Haven't been to Stage Left in a long time and would like to get back there. Was the steak listed on the menu?

[Kim WB]

No. it was a recited special, and one on the price card, just : Porterhouse (for two) $90.00. It was one beautiful chunk of steak. All the sides were literally sides..looked like some kind of gratin or scaplloped potatoes, and asparagus, served family style for two.

[Rail Paul]

I have to disagree with ya paul. I think its the job of the person eating to ask if there are any problems such as bacon fat in the food. We advertise what cove the mussle is from because we want people to know we went out of our way to get the best muscles we can. A little thing like bacon or bacon fat has no place on the menu and would just take up room. Especially in this case where bacon was just a little tiny piece of the puzzle. If bacan plays a greater role in the dish then i can see mentioning it but not in this case. Its totally up to the diner to take that resposability into their own hands. After it is mentioned then it becomes the restaurants responsability.

I hadn't seen this response before, so forgive me for resurrecting it at such a late stage.

I think there's a middle ground here, as there are ingredients which can cause serious or fatal reactions in some people. Aflatoxins in peanuts come to mind, or certain wheat or dairy intolerances. Other products, like ham or shellfish may have religious significance.

If an ingredient known to have harmful results in some small fraction of the population isn't usually expected in a particular dish, I think there's a positive duty of the restaurant to alert the diner. People expect shrimp in shrimp scampi, they don't normally expect bacon fat in au gratin or scalloped potatoes.

Unfortunately, it will probably be resolved when somebody croaks as the result of being fed some product, and their estate litigates on the reasonable expectations theory. And, they'll likely win.

[Helena Robinson]

The dining room with fireplace has been painted a muted gold/yellow color, and an adjoining( but seperated by matching doors) room the same. While these rooms were pleasant, and the color was great, they seemed very sparse, and the area lacked "warmth".  Through another door, and into the "Old Vines" wine shoppe, which is now a dining room.  What a great idea! All the original, ceiling to floor shelving ( they use a custom version of the diamond racks here) stacked with their wine inventory.  Yes, the room was COLD temperature wise, but made up for it with the warm woods, and great atmosphere. We chose this room, which is what they refer to as the "Library".  Once the chivalrous husband provided his suit jacket for my shoulders, all was well.

SEvice throughout was great. The captain ws especially knowledgeable,a nd the waitress was excellent. Francis, who is either the owner or GM, came over during our meal, and we had a nice conversation about wines, he explained how during hte renovation, he didn't want to clsoe completely, so he used the Old Vines space,a nd it went over so well, he kept it.  He discussed the situation witht he chef, and how he came to have his present chef.  Very personable, and sold my husband on next weeks Spanish Wine tasting. ( DH is just getting started on Spanish Reds)  Very enthusiastic and engaging person.  Our waitress was a big foodie, and when DH was in the bathroom at the end of the meal, we had a nice conversation about Ryland/Nicholas/Rats...hopefully, she'll visit e-gullet soon!  I told her all about it. 

The server recited the specials ( three entrees) w/o prices and at the same time, discretely dropped a folded card onthe table with a one word description of each choice  with  t he price.  I know we've discussed it herebefore..I thought it was a classy way to do it

To respond to these quotes:

1. Ken said that he thought Francis had mentioned the last time we were there that they were going to be getting some art for the dining room. Guess it has yet to arrive.

2. Francis and Mark are the managers; Lou is the owner, if I recall correctly.

3. The "Old Vines" shop turned into a dining room while the restaurant was being renovated and has remained that way for dinner. The downside, for us, is that we no longer have the shop to browse around before George St. performances. (We often bought something then, too.)

Yes, we made it to Stage Left for our Sunday evening dinner. There was about an inch of snow on the ground when we left the house, and it only took about 10 or 15 minutes longer than usual to drive. (The folks driving too slowly for the conditions were more of a problem than the weather!)

One other couple was dining, but only the regular menu was being offered (the web site indicated that both the regular and ala carte menus were to be available on Sunday).

However, the mushroom bisque from the Valentine's menu was offered as a special - and it was wonderful! Enjoyed its silky texture. It and the lobster were the only two specials being offered that evening, and the server included the prices.

Had the 2001 Joel Gott Zinfandel; which proved to match well with most of the courses.

The amuse was a foie gras terrine with a port reduction sauce. Although he's not a fan of foie gras, Ken liked this - and it paired well with the zin.

This was the first time that we noticed a choice of bread; a nice touch.

Ken had the leek-wrapped tuna, which was perfectly done (at medium to medium rare, as requested). I had the mushroom tart; which came as two tartlets - one of which came home for what turned out to be today's lunch. The tart was presented on strips of woven carrot and asparagus slices and garnished with baby carrots and green asparagus.

We enjoyed the cheese selection - actually Ken did, as I was too full. (And it turned out to be comped, by way of appreciation for making the trek in that weather.) The nut bread was sliced up to accompany the serving.

And Ken finished with a trio or sorbets: orange-cranberry, green apple, and raspberry - and that's the order in which Ken liked them (orange-cranberry first).

Even though the snow had intensified by the time we left, there were far fewer cars on the road; so we made great time getting home. :)

All in all, a nice dinner, despite the weather!

Edited February 18, 2003 by Helena Robinson (log)

[Kim WB]

Helena,

Do you feel that Stage Left has improved under the new chef..I noticed a marked difference from previous meals..do you agree?

Kim

[Rosie]

Helena--Thanks for the report. Owners are Lou Riveiro, Mark Pascal, and Francis Schott.

[Helena Robinson]

Do you feel that Stage Left has improved under the new chef..I noticed a marked difference from previous meals..do you agree?

Maybe we just haven't had the negative experiences others have had, but to us the food has improved with each new chef. And we've been going there at least once or twice a year since the restaurant first opened.

The dining experience itself - service, et al - has improved markedly in the past few years. The staff has become much more knowledgeable about the food and wine. And the renovation has enhanced it, at least for us.

Oh yes, we told the server "no bacon" at the outset. And neither of us ordered anything that came with potatoes.

[Kim WB]

Do you feel that Stage Left has improved under the new chef..I noticed a marked difference from previous meals..do you agree?

The dining experience itself - service, et al - has improved markedly in the past few years. The staff has become much more knowledgeable about the food and wine. And the renovation has enhanced it, at least for us.

I agree with you 100%...the service is much improved, and finds that saught after balance of friendly, professional and enthusiastic. And Francis has a wonderful personality for his job.