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Report on Pomegranate


Kim Shook

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Mr. Kim and I had dinner last night at Pomegranate on Cary Street almost in the Bottom. It calls itself a Euro-Bistro, just to give you an idea. Fantastic meal - this place has been open for 7 years and I can't believe that we've never been - we'll be going again and taking people with us! Doesn't hurt for Mr. Kim that the chef is a Steelers fan! The chef/owner is Kevin LaCivita. Really attractive place with companionably arranged tables - not too close or too far from one another. The chef's kids were there doing their homework at the back and I understand that his mother makes the desserts. Just the kind of place that you can imagine dropping in on once or twice a week, if you lived nearby. We don't, but we'll make the effort, I think.

I started with a salad: baby arugula, bruschetta of herb Delice de Bourgogne cheese with a lemon and EVOO dressing. Really good and just on the edge of my tolerance for bitterness. This is what arugula should taste like. Mr. Kim started with the restaurant's signature soup (all the reviews that I've read mention it): Cream of Pumpkin, balsamic vinegar reduction and white truffle oil. It was really delicious and actually was perfect paired with my salad - we mentioned that the two of them would make a good lunch. The soup would have benefited, I think, from some sharp flavor to contrast with the sweetness - maybe a drizzle of sherry vinegar, creme fraiche or some spicy croutons.

My main was roasted pork loin over rosti and spinach with a Dijon cream sauce. This was my second choice - I originally wanted the Frenched rack of lamb over mascarpone polenta and fresh arugula with a blueberry mint infused olive oil. But the chef hadn't gotten his lamb delivery, so I had to choose something else. Usually when this happens, you aren't really happy and you are set up to not like your 'second choice' as well. This was not the case here. The pork was some of the most tender and flavorful I've ever had. The cream sauce was delicious and unctuous without being too rich and the rosti was a revelation. I cannot imagine how it was done - the outside was crisp (even under the meat, spinach and sauce) and the inside tender and creamy with each strand of potato being separate. So good. And so well done.

Mr. Kim's main was the beef bourguignon topped with truffle whipped mashed potatoes. A beautiful version of this most comforting of all comfort foods. Tenderly melting meat with a sauce that was perfect - not too sweet, as it sometimes is and and the potato was actually a thick potato cake with a beautiful crust.

We were much too full for dessert, which was a choice of chocolate soup or caramelized berries with Chantilly cream.

One thing - both Mr. Kim's soup and the bourguignon had truffle oil on them and we couldn't taste it on either one - I didn't miss it, but if it is supposed to be part of the flavor profile, they missed something.

Our server was just perfect. Very nice and friendly without being the slightest bit pushy. Just human and nice.

We had some great street theatre to keep us entertained. Across the street from our window table, some man had had to call the police because the cars parked (parallel) both in front and in back of him were literally no more than 6 inches away from his bumpers. It took forever for the tow truck to come, so we watched and surmised and laughed with the lady at the next table about how fascinating we all seemed to find this scene. :raz:

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