Random Thoughts About Dining in Paris

[robyn]

We had a very nice trip to Paris - except for the weather (lots of drizzle/rain and even a hail storm) - and the lack of cabs.

Regarding dining - we had everything from the ordinary (omelets at a cafe) - to the extraordinary (our lunch at Guy Savoy). Cocktails/wine at sidewalk cafes - and at the George V (FWIW - the martini pour at the George V is about twice as large as at a cafe - so - at 24 euros - it is a very good value). We didn't have a budget - but I don't like to throw money away either. For example - we noticed at some nice - but not high end destination restaurants - that although we could have lunch for perhaps 25 euros or so - it would have been entirely possible to spend more at dinner than one might spend at an excellent 2 star restaurant. So when you dine at a place is sometimes as important - or perhaps even more important - than where you dine. A meal that puts a smile on your face at 25 euros might be disappointing at 75 euros or more.

Many places have fixed menus which are exceptional values - both at lunch - and dinner. The 100 euro lunch at Guy Savoy is an example. So is the 130 euro dinner at Le Cinq. So are the many 20 euro menus at lesser places for lunch. It is entirely possible to spend X at a particular restaurant for a particular meal - or 3X. So - particularly if you are on a budget - be prepared to be flexible in terms of what you eat if you would like to eat a notch or two or three (in terms of quality of dining) above what you think you might be able to afford.

Some places are just bargains. We spent 283 euros for dinner at Senderens for 2 - including enough decent alcohol to make us tipsy . Chef Senderens has been in the forefront of the movement to lower prices in higher end places - while attempting to make the most minimal sacrifices possible in terms of food quality. And it shows. If he made his langoustines the way he used to at Lucas Carton - they'd probably be 90 euros now - for a starter. Instead - they are 35 euros - and - IMO - every bit as delicious. For me - this was the last part of a trifecta with Chef Senderens - since I have dined at l'Archestrate - and Lucas Carton. And I applaud his efforts - which I think are a great success (and he started with his concept even before the world economy started to deteriorate).

If you can't afford dinner - do lunch. There are only a small number of places where lunch isn't much cheaper than dinner - and the quality of the cooking is usually at the same level (although the ingredients used may be cheaper than those at dinner). I am not so experienced with ingredients like truffles and caviar (in fact - I am almost totally inexperienced) that they are necessary to my enjoyment of a meal. I suspect most people are like me. In fact - one of the things I enjoyed most on this trip was a mini Vacherin bought at a cheese store with a great loaf of bread. Absolutely delicious - and only 5 euros or so. This may not be a big deal to people who live in Paris - but it is a big deal to me - since this is food I cannot get in the United States.

Finally - with regard to reservations - check - and recheck. Preferably by phone or through the concierge at your hotel. I thought I might dine at l'Arpege and emailed them perhaps 2 months ago or so about a reservation - asking for an email confirmation. I never heard back from the restaurant - and assumed it was full for the evening I requested. Didn't think about it again until I got home. And there - I found 2 phone messages from the restaurant trying to confirm my reservation - and then canceling it for lack of confirmation. Of course - I wasn't there to answer the calls. I was in Paris. I know it is sometimes daunting to call foreign countries. But I found it easier when I wanted to because I enrolled in a Bellsouth phone plane for $5/month - for only a few months - where I could call France for 7 cents a minute. I will never again rely on email to try to make an important reservation.

If I think of anything else - I will add it. But - in the meantime - do pack comfortable shoes - because you'll need them! Robyn

[grace3]

Finally - with regard to reservations - check - and recheck. Preferably by phone or through the concierge at your hotel. I thought I might dine at l'Arpege and emailed them perhaps 2 months ago or so about a reservation - asking for an email confirmation. I never heard back from the restaurant - and assumed it was full for the evening I requested. Didn't think about it again until I got home. And there - I found 2 phone messages from the restaurant trying to confirm my reservation - and then canceling it for lack of confirmation. Of course - I wasn't there to answer the calls. I was in Paris. I know it is sometimes daunting to call foreign countries. But I found it easier when I wanted to because I enrolled in a Bellsouth phone plane for $5/month - for only a few months - where I could call France for 7 cents a minute. I will never again rely on email to try to make an important reservation.

Robyn,

I have just returned from a wonderful month in Paris!! RE reservations...I always use the 1010 dialing numbers for my advance reservations. It is so simple and calls average about .65. I usually call about 6:00 AM EST. For instance, that is when I call Daniel Rose at Spring..Daniel usually answers the phone, too. I made many this way prior to my trip. I then always call and re-confirm upon arrival and give them my cell phone number in Paris..or hotel number would suffice.....

Joan