Wine for White Truffles

[cabrales]

I'd appreciate members' input on what Italian whites might be a nice accompaniment for white truffle samplings.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Not white, red. Barolo is the classic.

[cabrales]

Steve P -- If a diner preferred white, would that be inappropriate for the white truffles and what whites might be a good choice?

[mogsob]

Whites are uniformly a poor match with white truffles, as their aromas seriously clash. A white wine drinker, however, may prefer a lighter, more perfumed pinot noir, which also complements truffles quite well. Chambolle is a good choice, but, if you can get it, my absolute favorite wine pairing for white truffles is . . . a J. Hofstatter Pino Nero, Sant Urbano. Make sure it is the Sant Urbano bottling, as the less expensive bottlings are not worth buying. This bottling is indeed special -- the wine actually tastes like white truffles.

[muon]

It may be of interest to others reading this thread, that Buonitalia's, in Chelsea Market, is advertising a 'White Truffle Tasting' this Thursday, from 6 to 9. From what I've been told, the truffled dishes include risotto, crostini il fontina, and scrambled eggs, for $10/per. I have no ideas on the portions, etc.

I've also been told they'll be serving complimentary paired wines. I hope to make this event. If I do, I'll try to report back which wine(s) are paired with the dishes.

-m.

[Steve Plotnicki]

If a diner preferred white, would that be inappropriate for the white truffles and what whites might be a good choice?

Blech. There are none I can think of. Like mixing oil and water. Truffles are funky smelling. They taste of the earth. You need a wine that tastes of the earth as well. That's why old barolo or barbaresco is the right way to go.

Where are you eating these truffles? At a restaurant, your house? Can you bring wine?

[MartyL]

I agree with the general advice above to try to find a red, but if I were forced to choose a white, I'd move away from Italy and try champagne, preferably one with a bit of earthiness to it. A recent bottle of Philliponat NV Brut Rose (ok, almost white) comes to mind in particular. Another thing I might try would be a rich White Hermitage---but that would have to be well aged.

If your question relates to San Domenico, I'd definitely go with champagne, because you will probably want to have their signature egg raviolo dish with the truffles, and champagne will be much better than anything else with that dish.

[russ parsons]

i'd agree with that. the only possible "white" i can imagine would be either an extremely serious champagne (krug comes to mind) or a sparkling rose.

[Charles Smith]

I hesitate to add this, b/c I haven't tried it and I think the others are right, but the only Italian white i would even consider would be Valentini's trebbiano d"abruzzo.

it's a very funky wine (in a very good way) and well worth trying if not with truffles. current vintage would be '96.

If you can find Valentini's red, his montepulciano d'Abruzzo, any vintage, would be an excellent match for truffles- but he doesn't import it here, and it is very hard to find.

I also love aged sangioveses or Super Tuscans with truffles- an older Percarlo or Pertimali brunello works well.

[GordonCooks]

Maybe a Sauternes or Madeira ? I realize truffles may not be a dessert but they match well with a good Stilton.

[Steve Plotnicki]

A good Proseco if one must drink white bubbly wine. At least keep it local.

[russ parsons]

someone wrote: "A good Proseco if one must drink white bubbly wine. At least keep it local."

actually, most prosecos come from the veneto, which is a couple of hundred miles away--as good as China ... or France ... in the eyes of most piemontese. if you were to do local, you could do moscato d'asti, but then most would argue that that's on the other side of the province.

[cabrales]

Could members please provide a range of French reds to take in with white truffles, say, the following white truffle menu:

Here is the "official" DuCasse white truffle menu:

Clear Osetra caviar, new baked potatoes, sour cream

Farm-raised eggs, grated white truffle, beef jus

Aritisinal farfalle made with chestnut flour, veloute sauces, soft chicken "quenelles", tartufi di Alba

Duck foie gras and seasonal vegetables, cooked together au pot, tartufi di Alba

Herbs and autumnal salads, shavings of aged Parmesan, Tuber Magnatum Pico

[Wilfrid]

In the absence of any specific responses, Cabby, I would say that Burgundy seems the obvious way to go; best year you can afford.

[mogsob]

I agree with Wilfrid. I am mad about pinot noir and white truffles (see my earlier post). I was a Rousillon last week (roasted cut of highland venison, poached willams pear, caramelised pumpkin and truffled celeriac purée topped with a heafty shaving of white truffles -- ) and had a wonderful Chambolle with the meal. I think the lighter Burgundies work best with white truffles as you do not want to overpower the truffles. I will also venture out on a limb and say that Fixin has some very good wines these days, and a good Fixin is a nice match for a heartier dish, such as the venison.

[bills]

The only one I can think of that would work fairly well with white truffles might be Greco di Tufo.

[klinger75]

a good pinot blanc or auxerrois might do. Some oak presence wont hurt either. check it out!

[ajay]

Steve P,

I'm inclined to trust your judgement over that of the captains and sommeliers I deal with but they have uniformly (from ADNY last year to Lespinasse to Cafe Boloud) all recommended a white of some sort or another. Recently, a captain tried to foist a sauvingon blanc (from New Zealand that smelled of grapfruit) on me with truffles on the argument that the truffles were being served with a raviolo that contained an egg, butter feta and sage.

I made the taste of the earth argument and he was unpersuaded. i was going to override him and order a pinot noir, and he explained that would be a lousy choice, so we settled on an unoaked chardonay from NY (not a particularly outstanding wine but the place didn't allow BYO and I was getting wines by the glass). THe chardonay worked better than the sauvignon blanc which was awful. Is there any merit in this line of argument or are all of the captains sommeliers i talk to just trying to play a devilish game with me?

ps the truffles this year have been uniformly excellent, though i wouldn't recommend lespinasse as a place to sample them, as they are quite stingy with their shavings.