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TN: Five reds


Florida Jim

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1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Wahle Reserve:

Dark and brooding with strong smoky accents – all bass notes on the nose; much the same in the mouth – not closed but fairly monolithic; medium length finish. Better with food.

Too dark noted for me but I can see where others would like it better, but if I were guessing, I think the fruit will fade before the structure so I won’t keep it long term.

2002 Jadot, Moulin-à-Vent Chat. Des Jacques:

No evidence that this is gamay – more Beaune/Corton in nature with a restrained, firm, mouthful of red fruit with black fruit accents and forceful minerality. Too early to this but quite impressive.

2002 Terres Dorees (Brun), Beaujolais L’Ancien:

This vintage had a reduction problem so I have let my bottles sit – not much difference when opened now. But I put it in the refrigerator and got it as cold as I could and, bingo – reduction gone! Certainly not giving the depth and nuance that wine at room temp. would but its bright, cheery and shows no flaw – lovely with lunch.

2001 Sella, Lessona:

The ultimate ‘no brainer’ in nebbiolo; aromatic, delicious, varietally typical, complex and long – and cheap. Terrific stuff.

2005 Alesia, Syrah Fairview Ranch:

Too oaky on both the nose and palate when opened – so I set it aside and came back to it two hours later – much better; still some gentle oak but now the wine is about fresh meat, blood, salt and syrah; quite concentrated, weighty, thick textured but balanced, layered and a distinct salty minerality.

On day two it is more integrated and smooth, still some oak noticeable and the minerality is more apart of the whole.

This needs time and with its considerable stuffing, I think it will integrate its wood and its other elements and become one of the more individual syrahs from the leftcoast.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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