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Schwarzwäld/SW Germany recommendations?


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Hello everyone, having searched for some information on places in the Schwarzwald in Germany, I noticed that most of the information is a little old. I plan on spending a weekend in the Schwarzwald (the more northern/western side of it) in April, to celebrate our 2nd wedding anniversary, and I'm looking for recommendations for places to eat and stay, including starred restaurants. I notice in another thread that Freiburg seems like a hotspot, any particular recommendations?

I'm living in Rhineland-Pfalz, and have a car, so out-of-the-way places aren't a problem.

Edit to add: I'm sure someone will call me crazy for leaving the Pfalz to find nice places to eat, so if you'd like to suggest places there, feel free...

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Not crazy at all. The South-West corner of Germany is the most rewarding of all.

Freiburg is in the South of the Black Forest. I can wholeheartedly recommend the restaurant of the Hotel Colombi. Absolutely reliable.

Hirschen (Breisgauer Str. 47) in Freiburg also merits praise. Less pomp and circumstance than Colombi, but excellent value for money.

But as you are talking about the North of the Black Forest, then you are talking about Baiersbronn.

Which brings us to what is often called the best restaurant in Germany, the Schwarzwaldstube at the Hotel Traube-Tonbach, where I have had many surpassingly superb meals, and "Bareiss", which has just now acquired its third Michelin star.

Not easy to get reservations in either place at such short notice! But if you say it's your wedding anniversary, you might have a decent chance!

(Needless to say, there is much, much more. But I just wanted to mention the pinnacle and offer a comment on Freiburg, a town I know very well.)

Charles Milton Ling

Vienna, Austria

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Oh, I went there last year. I LOVED Freiburg. I dream of going back there. There's this outdoor market next to a church which is just amazing. And then there's this kind of indoor market with loads of different stalls of food from different countries, local specialties, fresh seafood, etc. And this really huge beautiful park with lots of different trails for hikers and Nordic walkers. Just something for everyone, in my opinion.

The rest of Schwarzewald I didn't think was that great. But then I'm vegetarian so I lived off bread and cheese the whole time. But if you like ham, and sausage...

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Thanks for the feedback, and thanks also to the person who PMed me some useful information. I contacted the Schwarzwaldstube last week, asking for reservations, but I haven't heard back from them. I think the website says they will fax back within 3 days, but it has been longer than that. Should I contact them to clarify, or start trying elsewhere?

IA

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I hope you won't find this rude or off topic, but when I lived in Mannheim in Rhineland-Pfalz, the greatest advice I was ever given in life was how close we were to Strasbourg, France, one of the great places (and greatest gastronomic regions) in the world. So since you have a car...

If you're interested in venturing that far, please pm me and I'll point you to some wonderful dining choices.

Overheard at the Zabar’s prepared food counter in the 1970’s:

Woman (noticing a large bowl of cut fruit): “How much is the fruit salad?”

Counterman: “Three-ninety-eight a pound.”

Woman (incredulous, and loud): “THREE-NINETY EIGHT A POUND ????”

Counterman: “Who’s going to sit and cut fruit all day, lady… YOU?”

Newly updated: my online food photo extravaganza; cook-in/eat-out and photos from the 70's

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Just a few further comments concerning what pennylane wrote.

The outdoor market next to a church (around the church, I would say) is right in the centre of town, and the church is not what I would call "a" church, but Freiburg's minster with one of the most beautiful Gothic spires to be found anywhere.

The indoor market is called "Markthalle" (also in the centre of town).

The Black Forest is "Schwarzwald" in German. "Schwarzewald" might confuse search engines if you are looking things up. And I fear pennylane was not directed to its most beautiful parts - they are impressive indeed.

Charles Milton Ling

Vienna, Austria

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Update: I hadn't heard anything since I contacted them, so I asked a German-speaking colleague to call and inquire. Apparently they are booked out for dinner through to January next year :shock:

But, I was (apparently, haven't received the confirmation yet) able to get lunch reservations for the day I wanted, which is a Saturday, so that's not too bad :biggrin:

Now, any advice on where to stay in that area, and perhaps somewhere simple for dinner that evening?

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Update: I hadn't heard anything since I contacted them, so I asked a German-speaking colleague to call and inquire. Apparently they are booked out for dinner through to January next year :shock:

But, I was (apparently, haven't received the confirmation yet) able to get lunch reservations for the day I wanted, which is a Saturday, so that's not too bad  :biggrin:

Now, any advice on where to stay in that area, and perhaps somewhere simple for dinner that evening?

Hotel Traube Tonbach seems like the obvious choice. They might even do you a deal as you are eating at the Schwarzwaldstube.

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Stay at the Traube Tonbach if you can afford it. A wonderful hotel, splendid wellness area, huge breakfast buffet, very good bar, service and friendliness around the clock. Some rooms are as spacious as other people's houses, prices can vary accordingly.

If you want to pay less, the Hotel Tanne Tonbach is just round the corner and costs only a fraction.

For something simple in the evening I recommend the "Bauernstube" next to the Schwarzwaldstube. Excellent regional dishes in what is the oldest and most authentic part of the hotel. Try Maultaschen and Linsen mit Spätzle und Saitenwürsten.

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