Fun Place in Montpellier - L'Atypique

[Vinotas]

Or, what smoking ban?

I arrived on a Sunday afternoon in Montpellier. Already slow during the week, this area was completely shutdown on a Sunday afternoon. Starving, I trecked to the apartment I'd rented, only to discover most places closed. That is, all except L'Atypique, a (literal) hole in the wall where a tall and crazy-eyed man greeted me. When I asked him if he was still serving lunch, he looked me up and down, frowned, and said "No, but for you why not?" Um, OK?

He sat next to me and asked what I was in the mood for. A bit perturbed by this warm yet slightly aggressive welcome, I hesitantly asked for a steak frites. Black and blue, I specified, and he stopped, looked at me, and said "Of course, how else would you make it?" Oh, I was going to like this guy.

His name was Marco and we'd get to know him very well over the next few days. He was a Parisian artist from the Montmartre area who'd moved to Montpellier to open a tiny (6 table) restaurant in one of the city's oldest building (13th century) on Rue de l'Universite. Working from a tiny kitchen, he made great steak frites, poelée de champignons and filet mignon de porc with, of course, more frites.

The wine was uncomplicated, cheap, and free-flowing, the welcome warm, the food delicious, basically a refreshing end to a day of confused running about the ViniSud halls, tasting horrid wines, listening to spiels, and always being "on".

In addition, Marco was the waiter, the busboy, the bartender, the DJ, the dishwasher, and the host for his little spot. He was also very adamant about not listening to the Powers That Be about such nonsense as the infamous recently-enacted smoking ban. He wasn't shy either, happily sitting at your table to discuss the arts, politics, women, wine and sex, a cigarette dangling from his lips, while flames exploded from the stove and smoke poured out.

Marco also encouraged tables to talk to one another or at least interact, as when he told our neighbor who'd dropped his knife to just grab one of ours, a devilish grin on his face.

Other times, when our wine was empty, he'd just grab another table's bottle and plant it on ours, laughing that wine was to be shared among friends, and best yet between strangers.

He was also quick with his love of music, playing some amazing Blues, Jazz and Reggae until the wee hours of the morning for us while we swayed and stumbled in a drunken, exhausted haze. Or he'd throw a child's guitar to a friend sitting near us, who would proceed to tweak out some great tunes despite the size of the instrument.

No matter what time it was, he was always quick to welcome you, as when we arrived at 11:30pm for dinner and he jumped into the kitchen, saying he knew what we'd want. And he was right.

So if you go Montpellier, and you want an experience that's not just out of the ordinary but really unique, go to L'Atypique. But don't be surprised if you become friends with your neighbors or the chef sometimes sits with you or after dinner the blinds are drawn and folks light up. This is still France after all...

L'ATYPIQUE

7 Rue de l'Universite

34000 MONTPELLIER

Tel Fixe : 04 67 60 37 26

Merci Marco!

Pictures can be seen HERE.

Cheers!

[Dave Hatfield]

Vinotas - Great post! You're on the map now.

We'll try it the next time we're down there.

[John Talbott]

L'ATYPIQUE

7 Rue de l'Universite

34000 MONTPELLIER

Tel Fixe : 04 67 60 37 26

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Wonderful Vinotas; I wish more members would post about the quirky little spots they find in all corners of the hexagon or city.

[Vinotas]

It's a wonderful little hole in the wall (literally) that's got good, not great food. Don't go expecting a Michelin experience, but do go if you want to feel like you were at a quirky friend's place for dinner.

Cheers!

[Ptipois]

I should add: "Go if you're in town, but don't cram the place, and don't make the chef-waiter-washer-upper-wine pourer any more overworked than he already is, for he probably already has his good share of Montpellier regulars."

I do not think the detail about the smoking ban is of the kind that one should attract attention to on such a widely-read food board.

Sometimes I, too, come across such miraculous little places. But, sorry to say, I think twice before posting about them here.

[Vinotas]

I should add: "Go if you're in town, but don't cram the place, and don't make the chef-waiter-washer-upper-wine pourer any more overworked than he already is, for he probably already has his good share of Montpellier regulars."

I do not think the detail about the smoking ban is of the kind that one should attract attention to on such a widely-read food board.

Sometimes I, too, come across such miraculous little places. But, sorry to say, I think twice before posting about them here.

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While I'd normally think twice before posting about a place allowing smoking, I asked Marco and he said he didn't give a damn. Actually, I won't translate what he said about his thoughts concerning the politicians. This is a family board after all...

And his main gripe about Montpellieriens was that they were cheap and snobby. Most of his clientele were excentric artists and folks from out of town. But it does get packed quickly, so go early or very late.

Man, did we have fun.

Cheers!

[Ptipois]

While I'd normally think twice before posting about a place allowing smoking, I asked Marco and he said he didn't give a damn.  Actually, I won't translate what he said about his thoughts concerning the politicians.  This is a family board after all... 

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I do not think what he thinks of the matter makes any difference in this case. Posting such information might get him into trouble whether he gives a damn or not.